what to redo my final drives reason is have slight over fill on one side just wonderind about track frame can a person roll it ahead after getting cat up on blocks to clear the sprocket and case dont beleive my hoist is heavy enough to pick it up.
Slight 'overfill' is probably caused by the pinion gear seal, access via removal of the steering clutch-brake drum assembly. Rolling TRF forward; you'll have to pull the track frame-track outwards a bit to clear the 'hard bar'! Raise the machine high enough @ rear the Final Drive-Case Assembly will clear the TRF if you pull the TRF outwards @ rear of frame.
Yair . . . Dunno. I mostly worked on Allis Chalmers and it was a long time ago but we never rolled track frames and I'm pretty sure it was the same with the Cats . . . park them flat and level, split both tracks, unbutton the outboard bearing and diagonal braces and jack them with the hooks or with a hydraulic jack and cribbing. If you had a second tractor to hold down on the tree pusher you could also suck the nose down with the blade winch or with hydraulics . . . you just need them high enough for the sprocket to clear the frame. The setup is very safe and stable provided you block the tractor level on the equalizer or spring. . . I seem to remember we had fabricated wedges that were welded to the frame. That is to say the blade is flat on the ground with the "C" frame trunnions holding the frames in place. The rollers are sitting on the chains and the tractor just rocks forward onto the front bottom corner of the equalizer or spring. I don't remember even unbolting keepers I thing they had enough clearance. As always adequate baulks and cribbing should be in place before any dismantling begins. That's how I remember it anyway. (grins) Cheers.
K thanks for the advice hoping to get it apart this week got to get it in the shop today let it unthaw still cold here.
A few blocks of timber a jack and a bit of scaffold pipe is all you need to get the frame forward, you don't need to pull the track frame out just jack things up, the equalizer bar will sit on top of the recoil case, you need to also block (support) under the wishbone as the frame likes to tip in, oil can transfer into the F/Drive through a few locations, the top pinion is 1, the intermediate housing is another, the breather pipe yet another. tctractors p.s. on the D6D they have a long nose on the top pinion so the D6C press adaptor will not work, the D6D adaptor will also do a D6C no trouble.