heres a hardbar that was eggshaped 5/8 both ways. hand buildup 7018 and linebored and cut snap ring grooves back in. the dozer frame is 4140 the frame has no bushings in them i order 2 extra ones for the bar and bore the frame for them. cat pulls the engine or pulls the pan to bore the center pin but my joint works just fine thanks for looking steve
few more pics
few more
That's some nice work Steve, you've got some cool boring equipment.
I'm not sure how tha ended up as three separate threads, but I merged them all into one. And I'll second what ATCOEQUIP said. Nice looking work. :thumbsup
Nice work there. I especially like the U-joint on the boring bar. I will have to remember that one.
Good looking work youre doing there. Not to sure about the dogs help, unless it was to bring the beer! Wanna come out to Washington and slap our master mechanic up side the head and show him that this CAN BE DONE! He wants to sell the Cat inteed of fixing the same problem you are having. Sometimes I just dont get it, but I get paid from the neck down I guess! Jason
Hmmmmm, sell the cat, buy a new one, or spend about 5 to 7K and repair the EQ bar. Tough choice, unless there is much more wrong than he is letting you in on. Flip side of that, I sent a D-9N in once for the EQ bar repair, and got it back about 180K poorer. The more they took apart, the more they found wrong with it. It was still cheaper than a new one though, and with 5 years service on it since, only one new UC job, the rest was good.
That's good work...what did you use to drive the boring bar and control the in-feed of the cut? Was it just a low speed drill or did you rig up something else? I thought of trying to do something like this to rebore the pin holes on the back of my 6s blade (swinging link pivot pins were really worn) but didn't think of using the u-joint...might have to take some of your ideas.
Looks professional to me, nice job
I don't know how Steve did it, but a friend of mine does this and he uses a mag drill. It has the slow speed ability, variable right down to zero speed, and you just feed it manually at a nice slow pace. Works really good.
Sorry havnt answerd been busy. d6c10k i have a fien bar drive which is a gearhead drill 4 speed tranny to turn the small bar on dozer frame just hand feed it. the big bar for the hardbar i machined has a 1.5 hp motor with a 40 to 1 reduction on it and has a feed carriage for it. ill post a new thread titled 992d and add a few pics of the larger drive machine
992d few pics of lineboring thanks
We need more pics dude! That was kinda like going to the strip club, and driving home alone to an empty house! I'm fascinated by fabrication and the likes. If I had it do over again, I'd have become a fab, refab, machinist type.
Awesome pics, like JTL said fab and welding/repair is nice to see how others do it. Job well done. Trbo Hey Steve, how far from the track are ya? I stay at Old Thomas Bridge Road quite often.
Nice Handy work !
What kind of cutters do you use on the build up? That stuff is hard on tools.
Jtl that just wouldnt be right going home alons so the next boring job i do ill take pics from setup to finish i dont have any better than i have posted already. EZTRBO im about 2.5 miles from the track. I live just off 394 on the rd that is next to wallgreens and mickeydees at the light. email me before you get to town and ill show you around if you or your friends like dragracing or monster trucks i have some freinds that have shops here. Blackbeard i use brazed carbide tooling it works good on welded holes.
great work and looks like my shop with the dirt floor, LOL thansk KoO Published Author
Proper job darr lad ,keep the pictures coming.
Reference Points How do you reference the bore location when there are no witness marks on the worn out assembly..That setup you have there is really slick..I thought about a radial welder for my bore projects, but its a little pricey..
Carbon rods Hey guys had a thought for repairing loose holes. I bought a bucket of welding stuff at a auction once in it there was a box of carbon rods of different sizes it took me about 3 years of looking at them in my welding cabnet before doing some research to figure out what they were used for. If you put them in a egged hole and weld around them the weld wont stick to them and you have an almost perfect round hole. In the case of the equalizer bar it would be nearly impossible to weld overhead an get good penitration between the carbon and frame. But they work great when working out in the open on a flat surface. The other problem would be that the largest one I have is only 1" and they were sized in 1/8" steps. It may be possible to buy a large diameter piece of the stuff and turn it to the sise you need. Has anyone else used this stuff? I have a d6r that will be getting a equalizer bar repair this winter. you have a great boreing setup there I also would like to know how you locate the flange bearings in the center of the frame to keep everything square. Great pictures and a great idea.
Excellent work man!