Hi All, Just bought a D6R lgp .The front idlers are nearly 6" out on the adjustment.Is it OK to run for now like that or should l get a link taken out now? It has 45 links in at the moment. I must say l am very impressed with its performance .It has the 3306 engine .Any thoughts appreciated. It is flashing service code on the dash and l am not sure what it means.Have not got a book for it yet!
what is your serial #, operation manual states no more then 5.9 inches, disassembly & assembly manual states 4.13 inches MAX, this is a measurement of exposed barrel. have seen barrels crack when running out to far in adjustment.what is the flashing service code. lots of parts out there for this tractor,3306 is one of the better cats out there,neighbor has 6h with 18000 on it never touched it.buy a service manual and 4c-8195 clicker box,if you would like you can build your own.watch for cracked track frames on these wider units fixing mine now.
Should definitely do something. I'm not a fan of pulling a link, but if that's your only option right now, then so be it. Like earthscratcher said, I've heard as well that running with the rails shot is hard on and causes failure of the track tubes. If you have to run it, get a link out soon. Maybe Tctractors is right down the road and can give you a hand. One thing to keep in mind, when you are looking at pulling a link like this, your rails are shot. This means that working on slopes is going to be difficult because the chains are not going to want to stay under you. Worn out bottom rollers are going to make it even worse. Good luck.
John, the D6R LGP is a very good mount to rally about in the U.K. as you are finding out, the undercart needs swaping out at this extended measurement, if you are just going to use it on a small job to get the feel of the new ride go ahead, but chopping out links on salt tracks on LGP's is usualy a waste of time, the segments get torn to Hell and rattle free on the bolt face plus the drama when the chain hops from under the rollers all adds to the excitement of wasting time etc, so if you have to due to wanting to earn some £££'s cut out a link the clip link is the 1 you chop, this link has the odd plate bolt holes plus you can cut the link end from around the pin to re use the pin as a master, the thing to avoid is the full boot in 2nd reverse keep the speed down and with the chopped track you could get around 6 months more work from it, if any links break dont bother with a patch up repair link just weld it up to finish the job and seek new chains, be switched on about the new chains you fit as only 3 makes in the U.K. are worth stuffing under an L.G.P. dont bother having a pin turn as its a waste of good coins on this tractor just run em to busting, the Equalizer beams are the knacker spot on these mounts, check all 3 pin positions and grease constantly and they will still fail, see CAT for details as its their crap design, all the rest is fairly good with the 3306 a better beast than the 6R-2, I hope it churns a few coins for you. tctractors
Thanks for the advice,that's put me of cutting a link out.Priced up new chains and pads today and got a bit of a shock.What are ITR tracks like as they were 2/3 the price of Cat ? Going to put 30" pads on again to try and keep running costs down and make life easier on the frames and rollers.Will keep a close eye on the equaliser bar as well.
The itr stuff works well on smaller tractors. LGP machines are hard on rails due to the wide pads having more leverage. One thing I have found out , there are 3 different grades of itr u/c and cat has different grades as well. On a 15 ton machine or larger the cat u/c will last a concededly longer. There is an argument that will go on forever about high drives versus low drives as far as u/c cost and which one is better. If you put a narrower pad on the new rails will last longer.