So thought I would just put up one post for two different things. The bearings (both) have failed on the idler pulley. While im at it, the rubber "bushing" in the other shaft of the idler pulley, is it pressed in ? That means I would not be able to remove it for inspection right? Seems to me, it might be due to the previous owner removing the remote line (don't know why) and putting a right angle elbow in to grease it up. The remote line is present, just has a female plug (cap) on the elbow. Also I have this oil plug to remove oil. What type of machine/device do i need to dump it? better yet, where is the manual bung? I would assume the plug up top is "mine-spec" and the other one is in the small inspection plate under the bash plate (RHS) ? another question, can a D8L drawbar fit on a D8N ? Thank's guys! Book's are still on their way from the US.... apparently six week wait to get them into Aus....
The bush is pressed into the arm so in theory you can remove it from the shaft, but in practice they sometimes get rusted on. For the connector, google Wiggins fast fill. As for the drawbar, my sources say no.
I'll add a few more comments ....... Don't over-grease the idler pulley bearing once you get it all back together.The excess grease will get blown into the radiator by the fan and you will rapidly experience overheating issues. IIRC the recommendation is something like 2 pumps with a manual grease gun every 250 operating hours. The rubber bushing in the tensioner arm is a press fit. The only time you remove it is to replace it. If the rubber you can see on the outside is cracked or perished, replace it at the same time you're in there doing the idler pulley bearings. The Wiggins connector for the engine oil pan fill/drain connector is an OS2, or an OSP2 if you want it with a plug. You can both fill and drain the crankcase via that fitting. See page 4 on this link. http://www.dcjinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/WIGGINS-Service-Systems-Catalog.pdf The D8N is a physically much smaller machine than an 8L, the drawbars are not interchangeable.
Thanks guys, got a wiggins on the fuel tank, so I may even have one for hydraulics and transmission somewhere. Still perplexed how to install the new belts... Do I need to unholy the fan drive pulley?
It's not often that you need to remove the fan drive to change the belts, but it can happen if the belt is short. Remove a section of the fan guard and slip the belt over one of the fan blades. Turn the fan and slip it over the next blade and keep going until you can pull the belt out from in front of the fan..
I doubt it. If there was one for the transmission it would be right next to the one for the engine oil. I've never seen a tractor yet with a Wiggins on the hydraulic system. The Wiggins fuel connectors are on the link I posted earlier.
Thank you guys once again. What sort of machine do you use on those fittings? I've had a Google and can't figure it out
The service truck would have an air operated diaphragm pump to empty the compartment. Usually a 5:1 air operated oil pump for the refill.
Judging by that, these pumps are pretty expensive then ? Was hoping to buy my own and do it.
Hand crank rotary should work just fine, they usually work in both directions, can be mounted easily, are cheap. Probably best to use a different pump for sucking/filling, YMMV.
Parts finally arrived, when I install the spacer and bearings, should the shift be prelubed and the spacer filed with grease with the hole?
I would if it was mine. The other alternative is assemble dry then before installing the fan belts spin the pulley while greasing it until you have grease oozing out. Wipe off the excess and call that job done.
When I used to run a lube truck it had Graco Fire Ball 300 pumps on it. they were very dependable and fast. Not cheap though. They make one for grease to.