After getting the clutch and slave cylinder working like they're supposed to a few years ago with all new parts I need another new hose. The hose was zip tied out of the way but somehow managed to rub on the big U-Joint to the transmission and I lost the clutch. Not a big deal to fix but something else to go wrong an odd way. Another $80 to get a new hose. I'm not sure if they make hose protector small enough for brake hose??
Always Sumpin Dave, believe You Me, I KNOW, I Really KNOW!!!
I need to see if I can attach a hose loop or other kind of clamp to prevent the hose from being able to rub on the U-Joint. It sucks because the grader is running great and the scarifier works really good to break up the hard packed dirt that the cultivator can't. I think it happened when I articulated one way. When I fixed the slave cylinder the articulation wasn't working.
Locate a bolted point that can retain a Line clamp.
It shouldn't be near the shaft. Is the bundle of lines and wires above the shaft on that thing. I thought our 730 was below the top hinge
Yes, there are steel loopes to hold the hydraulic hoses above the driveshaft. I'm not sure how the slave cylinder would work if there was a big loop of the hose hanging below it. Might be OK if I could get all the air out. I'll make sure to check clearance when articulated. With the grader straight the hose was 2 1/2 to 3" away from the u-joint. The single hose hanging down in the pic. below is the slave cylinder hose. It loops down out of the master cylinder and is then zip tied to the hose bundle in 2 spots. It goes down to slave cylinder beside the u-joint. I'll have a good look to see how best to hold it away from the u-joint. Even a light spring to pull it away would work but some kind of clamp or loop would be the best.
I picked up the new hose today and was a little shocked at the price, $110 for a 60" brake hose. I think the same hose was just under $80 two years ago. Hose was $43.85, male swivel nut fittings were $15.70/ea. or $26.80 and labor was .2 hours at $150/hr. for $30. I've got hydraulic hoses for less money.
Do like a muffler hanger deal of a "J" hook just don't weld it to the hydraulic hoses like it does to the exhaust pipes.
I'm going to take a close look and see what would work the best. I thought maybe an extension spring or even a bungee cord pulling the hose away from the u-joint might work. Another thought that may not be possible is make a guard to go around the u-joint. Would have to use epoxy or something to hold in place though. Maybe I could take a small piece or round bar and make a support for the hose.
A loop in the slave cylinder hose/line will make it very hard to bleed. Probly have to use a power bleeder. Sometimes even a high hump in a line makes it hard to do. We run into this when building rock crawlers. Let us know what your solution is. You'll get it figured out.
Just get one of those bleeders from princess auto. Hooks on to the bleeder and pumps fluidup to the master cylinder
It wasn't hard to bleed when I did it a couple years ago. The slave cylinder doesn't have a conventional bleeder. It has a thumb screw you turn out or remove. I seem to recall slowly pumping the pedal a few times and then using a 2x4 to hold the pedal down so I could open the thumb screw. I think if most of the air is out any left will work its way out. Of course Darwin is always lurking and it could be a royal pain to bleed this time. The brake shop said it should be OK to use brake fluid that has been previously opened but closed tight. He said it could lower the boiling point if it picked up moisture. Worst case is the clutch doesn't work and I have to get new fluid. Not as big of a deal as if it were a vehicle on the road. I'm curious if brake fluid could be warmed up to get rid of excessive water intrusion?
Of course it was a pain to bleed and I'll need some help. It might be because I put the hose up on the loops for the hydraulic hoses above the master cylinder. It can't rub on the U-joint by the slave cylinder and I put some split loom for electrical wires on where it touches parts of the frame. It was a bit of a pain putting the split loom on. Had to try to bend both sides out at the same time but got it on.
Reading online it says to wait 30 minutes after bleeding to let any air bubbles move to top. Waiting must be the key because the clutch pedal had some stiffness today. I slowly pumped the pedal and it got stiffer. Then I started it and had a clutch. Shut it off and pumped a few more times and had a stiff pedal right from the top of the pedal. Had a slight leak at the adaptor on the master cylinder. Had to use vice grips to tighten the nut on the hose because a flare nut wrench couldn't fit on. Leak seemed to be stopped so hopefully I don't have worry about it for a long time. You can hear something turning and it stops when the clutch is pushed. I didn't check the fluid level but it was right full when I was bleeding it yesterday so I think the little bit that leaked should have the level about right. The hose out of the master cylinder isn't what rubbed on the u-joint. When I put the hose on last time I had it under the bundle of hydraulic hoses to bleed and then zip tied it to the bundle of hoses. The hose at the slave cylinder end hung beside the u-joint about 2 1/2 to 3" away. It's further away now so shouldn't be able to get near the u-joint.