Hello all - I recently bought a LinkBelt 225 spin ace on an auction in non-running condition. Price was right so I gambled. The machine will crank but not fire. Oil is full and black, coolant full, has fuel. I can get it to run with a little puff of either but otherwise just cranks like it’s not firing the injectors, no smoke from the exhaust at all. The previous owner said it was digging fine then just died like he shut the key off. Is there a diagnostics software or tool I can buy to see if I have a bad sensor somewhere, or sensor not reading… the end of the muffler was rusted out and gone so it did melt a couple of wires on a sensor by the flywheel. I fixed those but still no luck. Was hoping I could pin point the problem with diagnostics before taking the counterweight off if it’s not necessary. Any other things I should check or try? I’m all ears . Thanks everyone!!
Does it have a fuel solenoid, is there any fuses blown. No smoke at the exhaust means none is hitting the pistons. Is that thing Isuzu powered or something else. Have you checked at the fuel filters for the banjo looking fittings that sometimes have screens hiding in them. Have you disconnected the fuel line from the tank just before the first connection to see if you have large volume of fuel flowing out and not stopping after 5 seconds. Does it have an emergency air shut off that is tripped. Can you post a picture of the side of the fuel injection pump area for us to maybe make a suggestion. Simon C
I haven't found any fuses blown, all that I checked tested good with an Ohm meter. I don't have another machine to compare or look at but it looks like there's either a solenoid missing or the throttle mechanism missing. I tried moving the linkage on the side of the injector pump by hand but didn't change anything. Yes this is an Isuzu engine, I haven't pulled the banjo bolt and screen out yet, I have had that give me issues on my 3400Q machine but it would still run just had very limited power and RPM's. I'll try to get more pictures later, since it's a minimum tail swing machine everything is really tight and crowded
If it has summer fuel it could be frozen now, If it is a common rail engine a dirty filter could put it down. If it needs high oil pressure to control injection a sensor could be the problem. Is there any codes as maybe it is shut down for a faulty sensor or a good reason. Need more info and pictures. Simon C
Have you tried the basics like confirming it’s primed, and cracking an injector line nut loose to confirm fuel flow while cranking?
I had a chance to mess around with this a little bit yesterday. I have good fuel flow out of tank, took the banjo bolt screen out at the hand primer, it was clean but cleaned it and blew it out with air anyway. Blew air through the line from filter to banjo bolt. I cracked a few injectors and didn't have any fuel at them. I was digging into the shop manual and it looks like the ECM controls fuel rack position to fuel injectors. I'm thinking for some reason I'm not getting any fueling. I took a few pictures, there looks to be something missing on the side of the pump, there's a 6 wire connector that isn't connected to anything and appears that a actuator of some sort should be connected to the lever arm on side of the pump. I did try moving the lever manually and didn't get any change in either position. Also - in the parts diagram online I see the component circled in red but I don't have that piece on mine.... I also found a big problem yesterday that I hadn't seen yet.... the main frame below the main boom pivot pin on the RH side is broke clean through....
A few more pictures
That crack is a very serious, debilitating, ruinous, totaled, OMFG, issue! Might want to rethink what direction you’re going in.
Yah when I saw that break yesterday I told myself it's not worth it.... thankfully I'm not even in it for scrap price.... but still kind of a bummer. Today though.... I keep going back and forth in my head if it's still worth trying to fix I'm kind of wired that way though... I probably need to keep telling myself no... no.... no...
Well, if you were closer, I would take it off your hands for scrap value. For a competent person, that’s a good fix, very doable, just means it’s like a car or bike with a salvage title. Only worth it to the owner but then it was always a decent excavator, for its day.
I think I'm still leaning toward fixing it if I can get it running first. I have plenty of confidence with weld repairs like that. It just might not get up and working as quickly as I originally as hoping for.
I once welded the stick from a delimber ( About 50 or so feet long ) that was broken 80% around the circumference. I prepared everything very well, peened every weld, Preheated with propane torch and welded with stringer beads one pass at a time. It was minus 30C outside but with proper preheat and cool down it went very well. The owner was helping with the whole job and was willing to give it a try. Everybody said it could not be done. I used Arctec 223 rod and it never broke. It burned to the ground in a forest fire 6 months later, but I was very busy welding after that with my own truck and only 24 years of age. Set up and proper execution can make lots of things possible. Simon C
Wipe it carefully with acetone, then use JB weld. Maybe lay in a couple strips of that yellow fiberglass drywall tape to be extra sure. But seriously, if you can get it running and you are not trying to sell it to an unknowing buyer, you might as well try to do a good weld repair. Is that the only failure? Seems like there would be other related cracks around.
To the op; here is your inspiration for a repair! ^^^^^ I also have done effective bush repairs to structural components (propane torch preheat, good prep, peening and Arctec 223 rods). These have high elasticity--I have no where near the skill of others here, but have never had a weld failure. ---Go for it, you don't have a lot to loose. Link Belts are solid machines and the Isuzu's of that era were really bulletproof. Good luck! Keep us posted as to what you decide to do.
I agree, that sounds like an impressive repair by Simon! I think I'm going to pursue trying to get it up and running and go from there. I still need to figure out why it won't fire. Will keep you all posted! Appreciate all the comments so far!
Circling back a little bit on this guys.... The online parts manual seems to not be that complete. The engine components are very limited in the diagram and seems to be missing alot of info. On some my post earlier in this thread I asked about an actuator possibly missing on the injector pump and also the missing components in the cab (circled in red on the diagram)... does anyone have any better parts manual or info on what components I might be missing in those areas? Thanks!
What is a "Spin Ace" ?
Spin Ace is what Link Belt calls their Zero tail swing excavators. FWD
I would message " thepumpguysc" on this forum. He's very good and helpful.
This was great advice!! Thepumpguys were extremely helpful. With his help I was able to manually get the engine running. I took off an inspection cover and moved the fuel rack and it fired right up! Next step is to see why the electronics aren’t telling it to fuel. Thanks for all the help so far everyone!
On a Case CX225SR , ground the X14 “fault code detection“ wire (violet/yellow). With the X14 wire grounded, the engine fault lamp on the console will flash in a long and short sequence. X14 location shown in screenshot below.
I just fixed one where the fuel pump would not move because the cable actuated by the electric motor was seized. We did a temporary repair on the cable and the machine full fuels for now and hydraulics is strong again. Simon C
That crack looks like it was done with an extra fine tooth saw, just snapped clean. Likely started at the weld on the end especially if there was slight undercut. Could be crappy steel with too much carbon or should have been preheated. That small of weld could have had a quenching effect on the larger steel plate. The good thing is it looks like you could add a reinforcing plate over it. Maybe could be bolted on if you could drill a few holes. Castolin Eutectic 966 is equivalent to Arctec 223 and probably easier to get in the US. 86,000 tensile and 36% elongation if you're looking at other brands of specialty rods in a smaller package. 8018 is another option. Most 8018 is 8018C3 which means it has 1% nickel for extra toughness.
Great info Dave. I'll give that a try. I assume the long/short sequence then will correspond to a fault code that I can find somewhere? Question for you.... This manual page you show above, do you happen to know PN's for item A7 and H3? I am missing both of those components. The online parts diagram shows them on the picture but doesn't give a PN or callout for them.
no rear overhang. Biggest we have is a 235 but I think the offer them in a 350 as well
The question of "what is a spin ace" was answered in post 18. FWD
See screenshot below. I don’t believe code 15, 21 or 25 will create a no start. . Is there a pressure sensor (#1)and wiring harness (#3) at the base of the left hand boom cylinder ? See screenshot below.
Good job. I just added a picture
With the X14 (violet with yellow stripe) wire grounded to the negative terminal of the battery, I turned the key switch to the "On" position and all the lights illuminate on the console and then they all turn off except the voltage light.... the check engine light doesn't flash or come back on. When I first started messing with the machine I found the wires to the backup rotational sensor on the flywheel were both broke, I fixed the wires and still didn't start. I was reading in the shop manual I have that the resistance on that sensor should be about 710 ohms... I only have about 45 ohms. I did order a new sensor the other day but it's not here yet. That's supposed to be the backup rotational sensor though.... there's supposed to be one in the injector pump right? Any other troubleshooting ideas/areas I should look? Appreciate all your help so far! Also my machine does not have the sensor or wiring on the lift cylinder like your screen shot shows. I assume the A7 and H3 components are optional and related to that sensor?
Do you have the electrical schematic for the fuel injection system ? I would check for appropriate power and grounds and also continuity in the wires between the engine controller and the injection pump. . Correct
I'll have to see if the manual I have has the schematic for that or not. Thanks Dave!
Ok, Let me know if you need
I have the Shop Manual #1113.... it looks like there's a schematic in it. Do you have a similar/same manual?
I have similar manual. Schematics are the same , mine maybe a bit cleaner. With key on , check for 24 volts at engine controller terminals # 10 and 11. With key off , remove the ECU connector and disconnect the (3) connectors at the injection pump governor. Check the continuity of the (14) individual wires I highlited in blue at the engine controller with the corresponding wires at the (3) injection pump electronic governor connectors. “ RED 4” is the electronic governor. . .
I got a chance to check these tonight. With key on and everything connected I have 24V on pin 10 and 11….. key off, I disconnected to two connectors from the ECU and the 3 connectors at the injection pump governor and checked continuity on all 14 wires… all checked out good.
Running out of ideas here. Engine controller or electronic governor issue. Maybe remove the cover from the engine controller and check for any obvious damage or smells burnt.
I had the cover off of the engine controller last night and everything seemed fine, didn't notice anything burnt or obvious..... I wondered about the electronic governor.
I wonder how the pump shops bench test that thing ?
Just curious, how long approximately is the wiring cable from the governor mount to the machine harness ?
It's not that long.... I'd guess maybe 18" - 24" roughly.... I talked to one diesel shop that deals with Zexel pumps and they said typically they replace the whole governor unit and have seen them go bad in the past.... he gave me another phone number to a different shop to call and get their thoughts too. I'm wondering if my governor unit is just bad?
Good question. The manual has no details on the linear motor #9 or the motor controller #11 .
My other question is if it's possible to replace the whole electronic regulator while the pump is on the machine....
Not sure. It may depend on how regulator assembly #308 (in screenshot) connects to the rack. Were you able to find a reg assembly ?
Not yet, the shop I got ahold of said he has a price shown but he's not sure it's accurate. That's for the whole governor setup I believe, he did say though that when they have to change them the pump needs to be set with it so it would have to be removed. He also told me the complete injection pump for this machine is obsolete.... so that's not great either
It sounds like the emergency engine shut off motor and control cable (to the pump lever arm) has been removed. Is the emergency shut off switch still in the left side console ? If the switch is still there ,maybe remove it as it could be defective. The switch when activated controlled the emergency shut off motor relay and also sent a signal to the engine controller to shut off the fuel.
Yes the switch is still in the console in the LH side. If I just unplug the wires to that switch is that enough? There's no wires that would need to be jumped together or anything?
Unplug the wires to the switch should be good enough
OK, will give that a try tonight! Thanks!
Per the schematic , there’s only 2 wires at the switch.
Unplugged.... still no start Still just crank.
I missed some additional 24 volt supply to the engine controller . With key on , check for 24 volts at engine controller pins 60, 61, 92 ,93 .
I'll check them!!! Thanks Dave!! I was able to get it off my trailer and into the shop yesterday, had my dad holding the fuel rack open while I drove it in the shop pretty redneck but hey... got it where I needed it and off my trailer so it all worked! Previously I had left it on the trailer and backed the whole unit in the shop but I'm going to need my trailer sooner than later so I wanted to get it off of there.
I got a chance to check voltage on the wires you mentioned Dave.. all 4 of them had 24V with the key on. I did notice a little spot on the circuit board but didn’t see anything in the backside of the board either. Ill add some pictures tomorrow when I’m at my computer but don’t think it’s anything.
Here's the pictures of the board inside the controller. You can see the little "spot" by the name ZEXEL at the bottom center of the picture.... the last picture is the backside of the board in that location.... Edit: I tried to use a rag and some contact cleaner to wipe that spot but didn't change
I agree ,don’t think that “spot“ is a worry. . I know the PO said the engine just “shut off” , but engine controller pin # 65 is to have 24V when turning the engine over with the starter. . A test box shown in pic below.
Checked pin #65 while cranking….. had 22.x volts while cranking. Had battery charger on batteries because only had about 20V at pin 65 without so wanted to make sure I didn’t have an issue with low voltage at the pin.