Have a 1" x prob 8"L pin that needs to come out. Due to a few reasons being hydraulic lines I can't move, and equipment onsite, I can't really run for the welder and hot knife. If you can imagine the 1" hydraulic rod with 1" eye on it, centered between two bossed which are each about 3" long. The issue here is getting compounded because I think one of those bosses is tweaked from hitting something. Like there is a chance that pin is bent! With that variable, I think I want to run a thin cut off wheel on each side of that cylinder eye, get the eye and cylinder out of there, which leaves me two pieces to extract, but half the war, maybe? Once the rod eye is out, there will be about 1.5" between those bosses. I don't have a plan on how to get the slugs out yet, but I figure if that pin is bent, this should help. Those big heavy bosses are only supported by 1/4" plate, like a box section, so it limits a few things, but maybe opens other possibilities.
Sawzall blades work the best, usually carbide to get through the chrome
Blade would bring risk of hydro lines but otherwise, I was on this same path. Actually I did buy some more hacksaw blades because I predict I won't make it all the way through (reach). Figure I can finish it off by hand. But try as I might, I guess you can't buy carbide anything for a hacksaw so bimetal is it. Would have hammered today but the AC felt too good. my luck that as I need this stuff done, Jezuz turned on the griddle.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-9-in-Carbide-Grit-Reciprocating-Saw-Blades-for-Cast-Iron-Cutting-5-Pack-DS0930CGX005/203467507 Then I use a carbide tooth saw blade https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-9-in-8-TPI-Steel-Demon-Carbide-Teeth-Reciprocating-Saw-Blades-for-Thick-Metal-3-Pack-DS0908CF3/207192133
Look for either "Diablo" or "EZArc" brand names I know Diablo makes carbide tipped sawzall blades, and have had good luck with EZArc blades and grinding wheels; not sure if they make hacksaw blades
yeah, the sawzall approach is just not controlled enough for the tight area. Do agree that fits the need here otherwise. I know carbide is the right material for that pin, but I know these Diablo cutoff wheels will hot knife it as well. Well, I guess I have little experience with manual cutting of these pins. I usually run a sacrificial carbide or CBN insert through the chromy or cased depth, then let normal toys play. It is a legit factory pin so I'm wagering on HRC 70 nitride case, on a 4140-4150 base metal. Only the case will screw with me. Have you guys run this approach to chop the pin? Do the rems come out easier? I have not even formulated that plan.
I have taken out plenty of 1-2 inch diameter pins by simply using a torch with a special technic to blow a hole at a slight upwards ( 10-15 Degrees ) angle into the pin about 3-4 inches deep and cool it with a garden hose while Red hot. I posted the instructions on this site with a picture before but have not looked for it. For those that do not know they use to burn with only a torch 5/8 or 3/4 inch Hot rivets out of railway cars to chnge sheets of steel and hot rivetted new ones back in. I have burned out about 50 of those rivets before,but best have the right cloths on. Just remembered where it is. If the pin is sliced first it would be even easier. If there is grease in center of pin it needs to come out first. Simon C
Forgot to say that it takes usually 2 full revolutions going slowly with torch to get a hole out the other end of 6 inch hot rivet. I had more indepth instructions before but not sure where on website. Simon C
A little pin like that I'd zip wheel with out much though if I can get a 4.5" or 6" grinder at it, if the slugs don't come out of the bosses take em out with a torch after the cylinder is out of the way. Most of the time short pieces of small diameter pin come out with an air hammer or BO punch and sledge tho. Worst case if they really don't want out and you don't want to torch, drill the center and carve out with a burr.
This is the path I'm on, but I got delayed today. Tomorrow it will happen. machine is now is position. I just don't know what fight will happen with the slugs but hoping they study Iran....comply or bad things will happen to you.
HeavyEquipmentForums @Simon C is this the post you mentioned?
Looking HARD at purchasing a 100T portable track pin press......anybody use one and have thoughts?? The main guy doing the work was almost 80 and made us look bad. Used a 20lb sledge to knock a pin out and reinstall..... Them "old guys" have technique. My 74 year old hay mentor stacked a whole hay wagon behind the baler, alone. The next year, TWO high school "Football players" almost died... HeavyEquipmentForums And this one
Thanks for finding it as yes that is the process to remove large or small pins. Yes it took me more than 1/2 hour to type as my typing skills are not as good or fast as my torch skills. There is a lot of detail written there as just forgetting to have lots of air blowing hard at back of head can mean instant failure or damage to other components cause once you fog up you don't know what you are doing anymore. Hope it helps someone else out. Simon C
This is the full detail explanation along with the picture. Simon C
Well the slice is done. Wish it was all that easy! Indeed something was under stress because nearing the end of the first cut, she popped pretty good. scared the **** out of me because that last nibble, I had to do dumb things and run an oversized cuttoff wheel with no guard. Explosion city....lol I think it blew up. Anyway, the slugs are stuck and tight. If they moved even a little, i would consider it, but not happening. Burning out has to be a last option because again, hydro lines I can't remove, and lots of risk here. Pulling rather than pushing is the right play. What can I rig up here? I was going to check around for a powered welder. I really need a hollow ram......ain't got. I'd question of I can get enough tension force with threads alone. Lots of extra torsion too. Good, easy access to the outsides of these slugs. No clue what it will take to free them but I need to plan like this will be a war.
Can you wrap the hydraulic lines in wet rags and prop some steel plates over them to allow the torch to work, have someone flood hose in there while cutting?
Welding blanket or even pieces of leather could protect hyd. lines. I've cut old welding gloves to use as protectors. May not even have to cut them. Some pics. of what you're dealing with would help.
yeah, it's possible. there is risk but possible. thinking harder on the welding and press stuff, I'm getting in the weeds with that.
pics
I'd probably try heating/cooling and air hammering before messing with rigging up a puller. If not then rig a puller and put tension on it then give it some more heat and vibration and it'll probably pop.
Soak it wit ur favorite penetrating oil. Put a dimple in the center of the pin apply an air powered chisel wit the air pressure as the chisel can tolerate. Ifn it were mine I would heat the hell out of the mount (not the pin) and the use the air chisel on it.
If it's just the pin bosses and you can get at them, you might be able to torch a fair size hole in the stuck pin pieces. That should should shrink them a fair amount when they cool. You could even spray water to cool them faster. Need a big torch tip.
Post #19 shows the pins. Simon C
Thanks Simon! I missed that so edited my post.
As silly as it sounds, you can get some serious press tension out of a jack screw bolt and nut. Takes a while and goes slow but I have generated probably 40 tons with a grade 8 jack bolt. I would probably try and use heat, while I was at it. Honestly though from the picture, that looks like an easy burn through, with a good torch and operator.
I really wish I could justify setting up a lance but so far, have never had to have one done.
A mini lance kit suitable for pins of that size (carbons from 12-18” long) is likely less than $500.
https://esab.com/us/nam_en/products-solutions/product-document/?docId=21148
That's the one I was thinking of. I knew I'd seen a video of it somewhere, just couldn't remember the name. Turns seized pins into liquid in the blink of an eye.
A slice torch also requires oxygen. If you don't already have a cylinder could be a little pricey. I'd see if a slice torch could be rented before buying one. There's also a Broco torch that some say is better than the Arcair Slice Torch. $500+ to get 2 small pins out of bosses is rather expensive if you only need to do it one time. It's also very easy to damage the bosses or other parts if you're not real experienced with a slice torch/lance. Maybe you could weld a nut or even a length of bar on the pin so you have a way to try to turn it to help loosen it. A jack bolt is worth a try or a small porta-power cylinder. I'd try something mechanical or a standard cutting torch before a slice torch.
Didn't I see on here some time ago, where someone made a cutting torch tip nut adapter device to accept standard 3/8" or 1/4" black iron pipe, to make into a lance ?
I don't think using a cutting torch. I recall a DIY oxygen lance. I can't remember if it hooked up to a welder to get burning? Could try search for oxygen lance.
BTW (much) cheaper versions are also available.
Job is done but I wanted to ask what torch tip and settings you experienced pin burners use? I ended up having to use what someone else had, which was an 0 size tip, 9lb Ace, 40lb O2 at the regs. IMO, something was not acting right. Could have been I needed to tear down and clean the tip, but I think bigger would have been better but what I noticed is Ace seemed to dwindle at the tip after running a bit, even though pressure was consistent at regs. Pin was 1.25", I didn't burn all of it, just hollowed the area where I think the fight was, moved to the BFH, etc. I guess it's been a minute since running a torch but I just wasn't getting much heat into the pin IMO, or fighting it.
Ours seem to be named differently. Up to 3 inch deep we seem to use nozzle size 1/16 for most things, which according to the info needs 2 psi acetylene and 40 psi oxygen - although I think the regulators are set a little higher than that in use. I wonder if your 9 lb of pressure takes a bit more holding back at the torch taps, and maybe changes as the hoseful of pressure drops to the regulated flow, if that makes any sense at all? The other thing i notice is cleaning a blocked nozzle is a thing of luck; sometimes improves it but there's nothing like a new nozzle.
some side notes - flametech and a couple others make a collet for a oxy torch to use an exothermic rod. also you can buy long tips that are handy for longer pins
Have never seen an exothermic attachment like that before. Curious how they compare to a dedicated torch like an Arcair Slice Torch? I've seen air arc gouging attachments for welding stingers but they were nowhere as good as an Arcair torch. I've seen the long tips though. They are mostly for hard to reach area's and to keep reflected heat away from the user. They don't cut any thicker steel than the same size in a regular tip. There are some many different torches and cutting/welding tools it's hard to know them all. As far as cutting tips they aren't always the cleanest with the best flame and cutting jet when brand new. A perfect tip will have an 18" or longer outer flame with 2 distinct lines down the middle when the cutting jet is activated. A perfect tip set right will make a louder kind of squeeling noise when cutting and leave no slag on the bottom.
Once the straight acetylene flame jumps the tip indicates the max. flow the tip can handle. You use that for balancing a welding tip. It can be higher with a cutting tip though. Higher acetylene pressure is required for a rosebud because it helps cool the tip. You don't want to throttle back the torch valves much when using a rosebud heating tip. It's the number one reason for backfiring and popping and can lead to a dangerous flashback. I had a flashback once where it was burning inside the torch handle because of a bad O-ring on the cutting attacment. That's something only acetylene will do and why flasback arrestors are a good idea. (Some torches like Victor have built it replaceable flashback arrestors) Thankfully turning off the torch valves put it out. I could hear it "screaming" in the torch handle. Curious what size of acetylene cylinder you used and how full it was? A smaller cylinder and/or closer to empty might be what caused the loss of heat or acetylene flow you experienced. I think an overheated tip might act that way but don't know for certain. It's also possible you might have drawn some acetone out of the cylinder or there was some acetone residue in the regulator partially reducing flow. For a job like blowing a pin out I'd use a big tip rated for 5" thick or so. There's bigger tips too but it depends on the torch. For cutting you rarely need to set the regulator more than 5 PSI, however when using a heating tip you need you need up to the max. 15PSI as the higher flow helps cool the tip. 40 PSI oxygen sounds about right but a bigger tip would have been a better choice. Glad you got the pin remnants out.
Ace tank is huge #5 at 75%. Plenty of juice there. Part of the BS using someone else's gear. To me, both gasses seemed to be pretty lazy. Matter of fact, I cranked the Ace valve on the torch body to the max to see what's up, literally no flame change after about 1/4 turn. The sound is what was bothering me. It sounded lazy, not the hiss of business. IDK, maybe every other torch I've run were running big boy stuff and I am more used to that. But I probably can't say **** until I tossed in a new tip! I didn't have one and wish I had more time to play.
They work alright, you don't have the oxygen flow of a dedicated lance rig with a high flow regulator and also harder to stay parallel with the pin They can be handy on long excavator pins after you get through as far as you can go with a standard tip but nothing beats a lance with a high flow regulator
Wonder if the O-rings need changing or something? Did you have the oxygen valve on the torch all the way open? It should be fully opened when using the cutting attachment and you use the valve on the cutting attachment to adjust oxygen. If the torch valve isn't fully open would restrict oxygen flow, especially when you need it for the preheat flames and the cutting jet. Other thought is the regulators have issues or the gauges read wrong.