Got a deere 160 lc one track wont move. The drive pump makes a buzzing /humming noise like it wants to move. It puts load on the engine also. The guy that was running it said it acted up 2 times where it didnt move then all of a sudden it worked. 2hrs later my buddy went back to check it out and it didnt move at all. I pulled the panel off and like i said you can here the motor make a humming noise and the engine noise gets afected just like any time you put a load on it. What i plan on doin is pulling the motor out and making shure the shaft or gears arent broke. What else can i look for or test in there??? There are 3 hoses on the front of the motor, 1 small one on top the 2 large ones under it, all 3 in a vertical line, what one is what? inflow, out flow and such. There is another little one on the rear side, what would that one be? Any suggestions welcome, We need the machine working asap, but money is tight, so if we can figure it out and save labor cost, it will help greatly. Mabey im goin over my head to, so let me hear some advice from the experts.
The two large hoses at each drive motor are the forward and reverse flow lines. One of the smaller hoses is to control the hi/lo drive of the motor. The other small hose is the case drain for the motor. You can identify the case drain hose by locating the small hoses connected to the T fitting on bottom of swivel, those T'eed hoses goes to the case drain for each motor. Disconnect the case drain hose from the failed motor, plug the hose from swivel with appropriate plug in the hose fitting, leave fitting on motor open. Start the engine and engage the drive for the failed motor. Monitor amount of oil coming from the case drain fitting on motor. I can't remember the exact spec, but I'm thinking if you get more that one gallon a minute from the case drain, then you have some kind of failure of the rotating group of motor. If the case drain checks ok, you could have a failure of the internal relief valve of motor. I would suggest you go to the Deere website and view the parts pages so you can see what components are involved with the relief valves. As for pulling the motor and checking shafts and such, you really can't simply pull the motor on that drive. The drive motor and planetary hub are sort of a unit assembly. If you remove the bolts that mount the motor to the backside of the planetary hub, you'll actually begin disassembly of the drive motor. I hope this little bit of info helps.
The thought of pulling the motor was because a local service guy said on the phone to my buddy about getting to the shaft and pulling it so we can have it free wheel and and get on a trailer.
If you want to free wheel it, you'd be better off pulling the planetary gears in the drive hub.
How do i get to them? It looks as the only way it seperates is hydro motor from hub.
rwatkins, to get track with problem to free wheel, remove propel motor gear box cover from outboard side of gearbox. You will loose the gear oil. Should be able to remove sun gear, smaller gear in center of gear box. Reinstall cover to keep debris out.
Exactly.
What holds that cover on? Only thing i seen on the outboard side was the 3 oil plugs and the sprocket bolts.
It should look like this rwatkins, this is from the Deere parts pages for a 160LC. Can't say for certain, but probably removing item 22, or item 15, maybe both, should let the drive free wheel.
Thanks atco, i didnt find that pic. That helps alot, versus looking at a mud coverd machine. Ill check it out tomorro and see if i can get it home. Thanks again guys.
I'm a cat guy but a JD should be similar. First, it is not necessary the motor. It could be the swivel. If the seal between forward and reverse has blown then the motor will basically be hydraulically locked. I have unloaded a few excavators with seized finals drives. Just lift the bad side, swing, stick out and travel with the good track. no need to pull the planetary.
Atco, wouldn't it be 25 as well??
Easiest thing would be to to check the oil in the G/hub, by the sound of things the gear train has failed, this is the most common style of drive fault, anyhow good luck with things lets hope its just a failed O Ring?? tctractors
Well we tore it all apart today, #22 in the pic was stripped out where it goes into the hyrualic pump shaft. So we tor the pump out pulled the inside shaft and have 2 new ones, some bearings and seals on the way for tomorro. Should be up and running monday for about a $1000. Better than 4-5k from a shop.
That sounds great rwatkins, I hope you get it all sorted out.
Well after finding some more problems than we hoped to, i got it all back together running today. Thought it was just the 2 shafts but turned out that the sun gear and plantery pinion hub were missing some slines and teeth. So i thought i should check the other drive motor as well just to be safe, had to do all the same parts on that side to. Now both are full of new tight fiting parts. It tracks nicely now. Ended up being a tad over 3k in parts. But i dont think all ever need to be in either of them again. Thanks for the help. Rob