The short version of a long story.New to me Deere 230 clc throwing codes 637-2,1077-31,1078-31,1569-31.I have replaced the crank sensor and wires to same.wires twisted and shielded.No change.So just wondering if anybody has insight into this problem.I use the forum often for troubleshooting,but just usually find the answer,or from someone else.Work is piling up and I’m out of money
Welcome to HEF Lou ! Machine serial number? Is the 637.02 code active or stored? If active, that needs to be addressed (obviously). Did you check the timing wheel on the crankshaft to see if it is loose or has missing teeth or debris stuck to them? If stored, clear the codes and run it to see what comes back. If you don't know how to clear them I'll send you the procedure. If the 637.02 remains gone and the other three return, there is another issue (most likely the injection pump). Crankshaft Tone Wheel Check NOTE: Disconnect power from ECU so the engine cannot start. 1) Remove crank speed sensor (RE519144) 2) Turn engine over with turning tool until the WIDE tooth on the tone wheel is seen, be sure to center the tooth in the hole. NOTE: (This exercise will take two people) 3) Now rotate Engine clockwise (normal rotation looking at from the front of Engine), count the small teeth as they go by the speed sensor opening, have the second person hold pin into place until it drops in the hole in the flywheel timing hole for TDC. 4) At this point 8.5 teeth should have been counted through the sensor opening. 5) If 8.5 teeth were counted the tone wheel has not slipped however if more or less teeth are counted within the sensor opening, the front cover will need to be removed to further investigate the issue. 6) Also spin one entire rotation and look for any damage to the tone wheel (broken teeth, etc.). 7) Lastly, gently try to move the wheel with a screwdriver to be sure it is secure.
thanks for you reply.i cleared the codes at least ten times.lastnight I noticed as long as everything was done slowly,moving throttle dial,it would rev up with no smoke or roughness,no check engine light.The problem seems that as soon as you ask it for a quick jump,what a governor would take in my older stuff ,the light flashes sometimes once ,sometimes six times ,sometimes it stays on until you rev down.the same happens instantly when any hydraulic function is activated.A number of times I have left the hydraulic unlock on and gotten out of the cab to try and see it as a service code but it is always no codes when I get there ,it shows up as a stored code except once I caught it. A new code last night 1078-7. seerial number FF230CX603088. To look in that hole the radiator ,hydraulic cooler,inter cooler have to be removed ,correct?or is there some sort of mirror or something?I did put my finger in the hole to feel teeth,is there supposed to oil in it.Im going out there soon,it’s about twenty miles from here.Thanks again
If the 637.02 code keeps coming back, and you had replaced the sensor and the wiring, then either you have a speed ring issue, or there may be an issue with a wire between the ECU and the controller on top of the injection pump (yes, there is another computer mounted on the injection pump). There is a dedicated wire for communicating the engine speed between the ECU and the injection pump. If there is an issue with that wire, it could set the code. Check your messages for the ECU to the Injection pump schematic. There is still the possibilty the injection pump could be the issue. We need to eliminate the other items first. You would look from under the machine with a mirror. Just remove a panel from under the cooling package. You do not need to remove any cooling system components. Yes, there is supposed to oil in there. It is part of the engine oil sump.
I checked the speed ring and it doesn’t seem to be loose.Im having a hard time finding someone to come give me a hand ,as guys here are still trying to seed,it is super wet here.should I cut that wire and splice in a section between ecu and pump or should I try to find the pins and butts that feed it.The connectors look good on both ends ,no corrosion and just a little oily.Thanks so much for your time.
I do not advocate cutting and splicing. If you want to replace that wire for a test, then I would try to find the pins for the connectors. There shouldn't be any oil on the electrical connectors. Clean any oiliness out with contact cleaner. Then run it and see if the issue is still there.
Finally got time to look and test this machine.the speed ring is exactly like you described .No noticeable teeth broken or bent ,but it was eight and a half teeth from the big tooth to the time oin dropping in.Cleaned connectors,checked the wire for resistance and grounding ,all good the wire carries enough current to light two headlights.My son is doing his level one heavy duty,his teacher said to check for ac current of the alternator.Not that either. The pump was replaced in dec of 22 and the machine also had an engine overhaul at the same time.I have the documents.The machine has 9600+ hours on it so this couldn’t have been going on for that long.the documents also state the diagnosis of timing crank and cam mis match even after new pump was installed. I should had read those papers more closely.The guy I bought it from said the check engine light only came on after they washed it. any way what would you recommend next.There is a real good mechanic out here but he of course is quite busy ,I am in the queue though. thanks so much and have a great day.
Well after much trouble shooting and two different oscilloscopes to get the right clean wave signs.The answer was that the crank sensor plug had been replaced and the positive and negative wires were switched.Very easy fix ,but a very complex troubleshooting procedure.I don’t know how the mechanic would have replaced them and mixed them up .But even the mechanic that was troubleshooting this didn’t think the switched wires would make a difference.But in the end the noise signal was apparently lookin for a wave signal going down after the wide tooth and not up.machine runs beautifully now ,as you would expect with a rebuilt engine and new injection pump.mg 2361,thank you for your expertise,as a lot of troubleshooting was done before the mechanic showed up.
Good sleuthing...good follow-up! Always good to know what fixed something.
Glad to hear it was resolved. The tech that helped you was one sharp cookie. The tech didn't happen to save those patterns, did he? I would like to see them and compare them to what I have on file for that speed sensor.