I have a low hour early 450h with the manual speed lever. I just got the machine in and don’t really have any history on it. It previously had a winch on it and was just removed before I got it When you start it the right side tracks turns in reverse, with the parking brake on it stops it but you can tell it’s putting a load on the engine when starting or haveing the brake on. When you release the brake it will turn in reverse. If you give it throttle it will back up ok but going forward the right track will not go forward. It always want to go in reverse. I put a new speed sensor in and tried to calibrate it but code f3n1 pops up and when calibration for the high and low speeds the right track is always in reverse the other track does not move much like it should when calibrating it. I checked the wiring and voltage to the sensor and all seems good. It seems more of like a valve problem or something. I am not to familiar with how these work, I have a Deere manual but I am kinda at the end of resources book wise on figuring it out. Has anyone else had issues like this, could maybe when they pulled the winch that messed something up, it does and a low pressure light on for the winch but it no longer has a winch Any help is greatly appreciated
If you have a low hour H crawler it sounds like it’s had quite a bit of sitting time. I have ran into a few of these that the pump displacement control valve, which is the servo that controls the pump swash, will stick in the housing. Usually this is caused by moisture in the oil. If you set the park brake is the load on the engine definitely still present? If so it can’t really be anything past the pump’s mechanical control. There is also an updated control linkage kit that replaces an easily worn setup in that valve housing. Long story short I would start with the front pump PDCV spool, as it’s either that or deeper in your pump, which just sounds expensive.
I took the front pdcv valve off and the spool was stuck as you had mentioned. I honed the housing out and got it to work freely it had a slight bit of surface rust. reinstalled and now the track acts right, but when trying to calibrate it throws up several codes and it will not move in any direction. I can manual activate the pilot vavles and I can move each track in forward and reverse so I think all the closed hyd. system is fine? But I have no movement at all. I have a small leak where the pdcv valve bolts on I have new gaskets ordered for it, I will try that first. these are the codes f3n4 f3c7 f3d7 f3m1
Did you follow the adjustment procedure when you replaced (assuming) the right motor speed sensor? Those codes are calibration codes pertaining to the right speed sensor. Are your sensor guards in place? Those actually serve as a device to correctly orient the sensor to read speed AND direction. The correct procedure is to run the sensor in finger tight and back out 1/2 turn. Then you install the guard and back the assembly out until bolt holes for guard line up. This will put bothe poles of sensor in line with the tone wheel in the motor.
I did do that and double checked everything again today. I got the new gasket installed and tried to calibrate it. It is still throwing the same codes and it will not move in any direction. The joystick calibrates fine and all the values are good on it, the tracks will only move if I manually do it on the pilot valves I am guessing it’s electrical but I would think the tracks would at least do something
It won’t if it has active calibration codes..the c7 and d7 codes are for the front pump pcp which is the electric component on the housing you removed..they’re codes for each direction threshold so I would say your pcp is either junk or needs adjusted which requires the one guage switch box and all that...you have an op& test manual right? That will walk you through which ports in the pdcv to install test ports in to test differential pressure..can’t remember off the top of my head but I do know that any more than 15 psi differential and the pcp is junk. Also if you take that big flat head plug off of the side of the pcp some goop lubricant should run out. It’s usually an indicator of a bad pcp if it’s dry.
Someones been through the dozer capstone, haha! 0-5psi differential is good, 5-15psi you can adjust, more then 15 psi you replace the PCP. What exact step of calibration is the machine failing? Thresholds, low speed, or high speed?
There’s a lot of H and newer crawlers in this neck of the woods so one can’t help but be familiar with them...I believe he’s failing the threshold cal for the right pump...I would say an accurate differential pressure test and null adjustment on the pdcv would most likely reveal the issue. Follow mestizo’s specs for differential pressure, and that will tell you which way to go.