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Deere 710B No Hydraulics at idle

mattyt1984 ยท 2014-01-17 18:46

I have a Deere 710 B Backhoe starts drives good. All Hydraulics work but not at idle. Rev it up a bit and everything works fine. Any ideas fluids are up no leaks at all that I can see.

Replies14
  1. #1Delmer2014-01-17 23:11

    How about transmission, steering and brakes? Can you drive it around normally at idle? How much experience do you have with backhoes in general and this one in particular? What does it do at idle when you try the loader or backhoe, any noise? any movement at all?

  2. #2paradise pete2014-01-18 04:54

    hey guys, I dont have any experience with a 710B but I have owned a 410B,C,D so Ill assume the lay out stays basically the same...On the hydraulic pump there is a solenoid.(I think its the only one on there) The purpose of that solenoid was to bypass the hydraulic oil to allow the engine to crank over without any restraint or parasitic draw. As the starter key is released the solenoid stops by-passing hydraulic oil... My problem with my 410B was that in order to get it started I would have to push the back bucket uncurl lever to relieve hydraulics at the same time cranking the engine( I got stuck couple of times)...but before you run out and buy a solenoid I would recommend that you check your electrical connectors or wiring for melted or chaffed wires..If you operate with care the JD B and C models where almost indestructible other than the terrible radiator mounting design, the tube that the front bucket piston rides on will need to be replaced with a beefier tube because it will never stop cracking if you just weld it, and right below the pin for the boom piston they have a tendency to tear in half leaving the boom piston the only thing holding it together..so don't ignore any small hair line cracks in the boom...It will tear like paper foil right before your eyes!!!!! anyway sorry about the run on but I grew up on JDs and I love to see these old girls still moving. My dad would not even entertain the thought of looking at another brand..its just sad to see the quality disappear....

  3. #3ala.millwright2014-01-18 22:03

    I've never been around a 710 but the basic pump and coupling setup should be close to my 310a. Have you checked the coupling on the Hyd pump? Where the coupling go around the pump shaft it should be splined and have some bolts that squeeze the coupling tight around the pump shaft. If the bolts are loose it can let the splines get worn. At low idle the coupling can slip on the shaft causing it to not turn fast enough to supply oil. When you increase the rpms the pump will turn faster and start pumping like normal. Just a thought.

  4. #4ala.millwright2014-01-18 22:25

    Forgot to mention. On the engine side of the coupling, there should be a round piece that has a polyurethane center section. This center piece mates the engine to the coupling. If it is worn out, it can cause the same Slippage as worn splines on the pump end of the coupling.

  5. #5mattyt19842014-01-19 19:27

    Transmission steering and brakes all work good. At idle when trying to use front loader it will not move rev it up a bit it goes up but shutters.

  6. #6JDfan500C2014-01-19 19:35

    Have you changed the hydro filters?

  7. #7mattyt19842014-01-19 19:37

    Yes

  8. #8Delmer2014-01-19 22:44

    Have you checked/cleaned the transmission screen? I think it should have a big hex plug on the back of the transmission that you remove and then pull out the screen, first have to drain the transmission. Check/change the transmission filter while you're there. I believe this is similar to the 410 in the closed center radial piston system, but closer to the 610 in the 8sp powershift transmission that provides the charge pressure to the hydraulic system (not positive on where your charge pressure comes from). There's a priority valve that stops fluid from flowing to the loader if the pressure drops, but the backhoe will still have the same pressure as the steering and brakes. Does the backhoe operate the same as the loader? How about the other questions? and what is the history of the problem?

  9. #9mattyt19842014-04-05 21:21

    Ok I finally got back to this after the long winter. All hydraulics brakes and steering seem to work fine. Only thing that does not seem to work right is the front bucket it surges at any rpm all other hydraulics work smooth. What would cause only the front loader to shutter and surge. It works and has power just not smooth at all. Any idea I bought the backhose like this so I do not know the cause or when/how it happened.

  10. #10Delmer2014-04-06 00:16

    Backhoe? functions fine or stutters also?

  11. #11mattyt19842014-04-06 08:32

    All backhoe functions work properly as do the outriggers.

  12. #12Delmer2014-04-06 11:29

    Good, that makes more sense now. The priority valve shuts off flow to the loader if the pressure drops below a certain level, so that COULD explain why only the loader stutters. That doesn't mean the priority valve is malfunctioning, say if the backhoe valve is leaking/bypassing then the priority valve could be causing the loader to stutter but be functioning as designed. Let the unit run cold for several minutes and use a non contact/infrared thermometer to check the valves and hoses for heat. That's a quick way of doing a leak check on the valves. To do it right you'd disconnect hoses, check leakage, cap hoses, etc, etc. Don't let the priority valve intimidate you. It's mostly just a manifold, with a relatively simple pressure control valve on the loader circuit. If you remove the guts (for diagnosis ONLY) the loader might stop stuttering, but you won't have steering and brakes prioritized anymore. You might even find something obvious in the guts. Another possibility is a loader cylinder/rod is bent or dented? Can you get the loader to function correctly if you're not moving? in F-N-R? not steering or braking? in any of the gears? with the clutch pedal in? with the machine warmed up?

  13. #13Deon2014-04-06 11:59

    Delmer, this is not my machine but I like to learn. What do you mean by let the machine run cold?

  14. #14Delmer2014-04-06 13:14

    I just meant start cold, and let it idle so it's easier to see if something gets hot faster than it should. Rather than after using the machine when everything should be warm already.