After ripping out the nasty muffler I took a closer look at the governor. I am no expert but something here does not look right. Engine is an 83 3-53T. Im not sure what the rod going into the engine is but is it supposed to be bent like that? Also the engine shut-off cable looks very wrong. Does any one have a pic of what it should look like? Thanks, Blue
What machine is that engine fitted in?
Dynahoe 1900
Well, maybe I'm missing something in the limited view of the pic, but I'm seeing a set speed governor control and no means to manually control throttle speed.
I removed the throttle cable and the linkage. Here is the tag in it.
Single Weight - Variable Speed governor. I have to admit, I do know that Detroit made "exposed" linkage governor controls, but I'm not familiar with them myself, and that appears to be what that engine has. I'm more familiar with the Detroit "enclosed" linkage set up.
All my Detroit's have the enclosed linkage governor . From what few pictures I have in the series 53 manual it looks like the rod has some bend to it .
That rod going in through the orange rubber bellows like part is the rod that controls the rack and injectors. I agree that from the drawings posted it does look like the rod may have a bit of a bend. As long as it doesn't bind or rub on anything it should be okay. Just a suggestion when starting engine have someway to chock off the air to the intake on the chance the linkage does bind.
td25c, thanks for the pics. Really helps a lot! I can only find the enclosed type on the net. As far as adjusting the governor spring and buffer screw are they all the same? It seems my engine is not compensating for load, it just bogs down. I have read horror stories of run away and engines running backwards. Unless the equipment was removed, this engine does not have a way to choke off the air. As far as the shut off cable, the owners manual shows a lever or something on the dash. Not sure how it is supposed to hook up to the governor. But if it works... Just looks cheep.
The air shut off flap is a rod sticking out of the side of the top of the blower, like a throttle or choke shaft with an arm and cable. Some Detroits in Dynahoes had them.
Yeah Blueboy , the procedure on the buffer screw looks to be similar .
http://www.machinerytrader.com/list/list.aspx?ETID=1&catid=1046&Manu=DYNAHOE Those are tough looking rigs !
Do not touch the buffer screw until all other adjustments are complete. All the buffer does is control the hunting or loping the engine does while cold.
Thanks!! I will print this out and read it a 100 times.
Unless you find something obviously broken, I wouldn't touch the governor for the engine bogging down. Most likely a fuel supply issue, especially on an old machine that hasn't run in a while, or hasn't run much. The EMERGENCY shut down is an air flap in the intake system, different than the fuel shut off, because Detroits can leak oil into the intake and run away, hence the air shut off. Figure out if your's has one, and practice tripping it, just in case. I think they need to be reset on the engine, not from the cab.
Detroits leak oil into the intake via the liner ports. When an engines oil control rings start to wear oil is bypassed and in most applications, the drip tubes are clogged, causing oil to pool up and eventually become digested. Scary times
I have a service manual for a 53 in pdf for it if you want, PM me your email & I'll send it to you.
I have a paper model...not as cool as yours.
The issue of run away engines was always primarily from water hitting the injector tips and freezing the injector rack. The engine would then stay at that RPM unless the load was released at which time the engine would scream like a banshee till it came apart or someone pulled the blower trip. I've personally witnessed that a half a dozen times. The stories of the engines running away on their own oil were sometimes true but the oil came from the blower seals and not the pistons. The reason the blower seals went bad in my experience was because someone didn't know any better and kept shutting down the engine with the blower trip instead of adjusting the governor linkages properly. When that happens the engine don't run real fast until things start getting real hot. Engine oil smokes a ton when fed at that rate so from what I've seen it isn't too hard to shut things down before the motor starts self motivating. There could have been events that I haven't seen where that wasn't true but I've never been able to confirm the stories.
Wet stacking will make one run away for a short (scary) period of time. Back in the 90's, had an old I-H with a 6V-53 with a water tank while working with a drilling company. It was winter, the old fella who drove the water truck let that thing idle all day long. When the job was over and we moved everything out, I got the task of driving the water truck. Fired it up, let it warm up. When I took off running the gears at driving rpm she took off burning the oil in the air box. Fortunately, didn't last long and settled down. My point, many things can make those engines run away, most common is stuck injector rack as John C stated, but still many things that don't affect other engines. Detroit engineers understood this and provided the air flap on the roots blower. And as John said, it should only be used when needed for its intended purpose, to shut down a runaway engine. Repeated use puts a lot of stress on the blower shaft seals.