I don't have the manual but I've seen some other clutch release bearing removal and installation videos without presses or wheel pullers (just simply hand-fit). Rightly or wrongly, on this tractor, removal was definitely a wheel-puller maneuver! So I wonder how not to waste my new $300 bearings; heating is out of the question because the synthetic pre-grease will just leak right out. Looks like a definite press-fit but I cannot first remove the hosting yokes because the design is too tight and I can't even get my paws in there to remove the 4 clevis pins with 1/8" exposure even with the bearings removed, never mind with them already pressed on for the reverse installation procedure. The only practical and moral way I see is to rig up a horizontal counter struct to use a hand jack to press them on in the bell-housing equivalent casing. Or maybe someone has already done this job on this tractor, maybe more than once even?
Got a picture or two? I can’t visualize it
The yokes that ram the bearings are held by split dowels (arrow at right) but with only 1/8" exposed on all 4 of them (bitch of a place and job). I could not get them out and I wasn't looking forward to doing a complete strip just to change the bearings. I drove the small bearing on with a hammer on a 3" aluminum pipe, the big one by hammering a piece of wood from side to side. Never applied more than light to light-moderate force. I worked. The problem is that I hate gray areas and unknowns or potential unpredicables before even starting. Anyone doing this should first of all make sure the the fit for both is what you would expect (I'm not a machinist so I have no idea) and then try as I did with or without the 3" pipe on the smaller bearing. I actually tried a nominal 5" pipe on the big one but it got stuck crooked so I tapped it straight and then tapped the rest of the way. Soon after I slinged the engine on the cat-426 and put back in its home. It was a good day.
If i recall, most times i removed the lock bolt holding the fork to the cross shaft and then slid the shaft out allowing the fork/bearing assembly to slide off the quill
That's #5 I guess, unscrew and pull the shaft right out through the case ports, then slide the youke with the fork still on it. Good to know for the next time. I just saw a 185 Deutz_Allis 7110 for sale around here