To anyone who knows anything about valve clearance on a Deutz diesel 4 cylinder please help. I have been having smoke issues and wanted to peek at the rods and springs and see if I could free up a possible valve freeze up from the top down and I took the valve cover off and 2 of the springs on different cylinders were down and seemed off for some reason. Long story short I adjusted them as I thought I should and started it and not good and then read up on it more and pretty much set the intake and exhaust tappets a bit off from each other and it runs fine... any feedback?
What engine series? Deutz has only been making engines for about 150 years... The last deutz I checked it was .15mm/.006" on a 912 engine.
It’s a 1011 bmf series. I have been running it for about 4 hours straight seems ok but still smoking a bit but I believe that’s the additives I put in it. Hopefully as I run it it will burn off the junk but yes it’s the 1011
Cold. Inlet 0.3mm Exhaust 0.5mm
Ok now do I need to crank the drive shaft to get the piston in the correct piston or can I adjust it cold at any time without touching the driveshaft or impeller or what not?
There a a number of different ways to do it but essentially, the piston needs to be at TDC on the firing stroke.
Correct I do know the first piston and the last have to be opposite I have the sequence but wasn’t sure how to move the shaft w out the key and taking it all apart. Maybe the alternator?
Quick and dirty method, assuming the firing order is 1-3-2-4 which it is on most 4-cylinder engines. As you rightly say pistons #1 & #4 rise and fall together, as do pistons #2 & #3. You can use this to your advantage. Rotate the engine crankshaft slowly while watching the valve rockers carefully. At some point you will have the inlet & exhaust valves on the same cylinder moving at the same time. One valve will be in the final stages of closing, the other valve will be just starting to open. When a pair of valves on one cylinder are "on the rock", adjust the valves on the mating cylinder. So if the valves are rocking on cylinder #2, adjust the valve clearances on #3. Or if the valves are rocking on #4, adjust the valve clearances on #1. Etc, Etc. You will need to rotate the engine a minimum of 2 full turns of the crankshaft to adjust the valves on all four cylinder.
Ahhh and that is the most succinct answer I’ve had yet!! But.... how do I move the shaft without taking stuff apart to a point? Easiest way and softest way or just how do I do it please?
Not knowing the exact setup of the engine you're working on it's impossible to say. If you have a belt-drive fan it's often possible to rotate the engine by pressing hard on the fan belt to increase the tension while at the same time pulling on one of the fan blades. As the IKEA manuals say - "some home disassembly may be required"
……..or if it's an electric-start, remove the starter motor and carefully use a prybar on the teeth of the starter ring gear.
What is it in? Don't you have access to the crank pulley? If you haven't been down this road in the past, a deutz is not what you want to experiment on. There are no timing marks, you have to watch valve overlap, if you don't know what you are doing, you could easily bend valves and ruin your engine. Not trying to be a pr!ck , just don't want you to make a bigger problem out of a small one. Have you checked your air filter, is it turbocharged, have you recently serviced the slurry bowl, has it ever been serviced? How many hours, is timing belt adjusted properly? Is it equipped with smoke control?
If it has individual GP's, take the one out in # 1, stick something that fits in, in the hole, rotate the motor by hand, as mentioned, above, then when the object goes up as high as it will go, and both valves are down and loose, you are at TDC. The really down and dirty way of setting the valves, is to adjust the first cyl, at TDC, then remember how many turns, (or fractions of a turn) it took to accomplish, for each valve(intake may take a different amount than exhaust). then just adjust all the others the same amount(s), regardless of where the other cyls are...
Crank bolt should be a 32mm, and you rotate the engine clockwise at the crank. Cylinders on Deutz are numbered backwards (#1 at the flywheel, #4 at the crank) but same process as other inline engines. This diagram is for a Deere 4045, but the process is identical to the 1011. TDC on the pulley side for the first set, TDC at the rear cylinder (front cylinder valves will both be rocking/overlapping) for the second set. Hope this helps. Also what kind of smoke are you seeing? Black soot and under powered?