I've got a 2012 F450 DRW 4X4 with a flatbed and I want to install a diesel fuel transfer tank so I can fill heavy equipment (like CAT backhoes, dozers, excavators, etc) on the job-site. Has anyone installed a diesel fuel transfer tank and pump, and if so, what size and brands do you prefer. Thank you.
Weather guard tanks pricey but worth it And gpi pumps I like them better than fillrite but either one works ok
Have a tank built for your application. Make sure it has 4 way baffles & I prefer the fillrite 20gpm pump with a 25' 1" diameter hose.
I’ve had several tanks built. Make sure they know what way it will set in the truck. Baffle it for either direction. I had a nice 200 gallon tank built years ago. I assumed, silly me, the shop knew which way it would sit in the truck and also that they’d baffle it for either direction. They didn’t and when half full you’d sure feel that 100 gallons moving as there were no baffles in that direction. Also, I went to a Cat filter head and Cat water separator. They last longer and do a better job of removing trash as well as keeping the water out. Fuel sitting in a transfer tank seems to be a great source of moisture and other contamination. Think about the volume you need as well as the other stuff you plan to install. If there’s a chance it’ll be removed when there’s fuel in it make sure you plan for that as well in your design.
Whats the hazmat volume for fuel? Isn't it right around 550lbs? Id try and stay under that so you don't need any placards!
As I remember … Vehicle fuel tanks are exempt, this applies to CARGO tanks. Which the OP is going to install. IBC's are over the limits, but they are required to be removed from the transport vehicle before being unloaded. So they aren't suitable for OP's use. Most states have adopted the Federal Haz Mat regulations [CFR40 172.102] 'in toto' meaning the entire scope of the regulations. It is usually legal to transport up to 1000 LBS of Haz Mat without warning placards on the outside of the vehicle UNLESS you get over the 119 gal. See here >> https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs144p2_043004.pdf
Thats what i was talking about. I thought once you went over 140 gallons in a transfer tank (not the vehicles fuel tank) that it had to be placarded?
Have you considered a portable fuel bowser? I would guess cheaper than custom built and you only need take it with you when you need it. I use one of these: https://western-global.com/en/products/us/transcube/transcube-global/10tcg/ Graham
Original poster is in the States. Our gov't has adopted rules for "bowser" or IBC (Intermediate Bulk Container) that may cost him dearly if caught. https://www.federalregister.gov/doc...ardous-materials-requirements-for-cargo-tanks "Section 177.834(h) prohibits discharge of any contents of any container, other than a cargo tank or IM portable tank, prior to the removal from the motor vehicle. The proposed definition does not change this prohibition. Thus, unless authorized under exemption, IBCs may not be loaded or unloaded without first being removed from the transport vehicle. In this final rule, we are adopting the revised definition, as proposed. " Of course people use an IBC anyways for fuel.
As they sell the same tanks in the States, the link is to the US site, I had assumed they would be legal to use. These are purpose built fuel tanks with 110% bunding, not like the good old days where you could scoop up a 55 gallon drum of fuel in the front bucket of a backhoe loader and head off down the road. I wouldn’t class it as an IBC, but that doesn’t mean it may not be classed as one by whoever enforces the rules. I don’t see that unloading a full tank onto the ground before pumping the fuel out makes the operation any safer, but I guess you legislators are a lot cleverer than me. Graham
I wouldn’t call that link an IBC container, which to me is a poly tank with a metal tubing cage and a 4 way pallet. The link is a double wall steel tank that is cube shaped, stackable, forkable, and hoistable. I’d also assume quiet expensive, the 300 gallon tank weighs ~1100lb, that’s a lot of steel.
Graham and Lumberjack … I'm not a lawyer or play one on TV … It seems to me : We were speaking of the limits of NON placarding a truck with a cargo tank of fuel. That limit is 119 gallons. The DOT placard exemption for an IBC comes with the requirement of removing the IBC from the vehicle before unloading it. The op may use the Transcube in the States, but legally, he will have to placard the truck Or call the Transcube an IBC. But if he calls the Transcube an IBC, He has to remove it before using it. Like taxes … they get ya either way.
I don't know your rules. Here in the UK, under 1000 litres (264 us gallons) you don't need plating or special licence if transported in an approved container. I normally use a 450 litre transcube (119 gallons) which I find plenty for running a couple of machines, so I would be under the limit anyway. I've never seen a built in tank in UK. To have anything custom built in this country seems to cost a fortune even if you can find someone to do it. I guess your rules push you in that direction. Graham
Graham … I'll bet most of the cost of a custom tank is the certification. I've read the EU rules are quite onerous. Maybe Brexit will help you guys. I doubt many custom tanks in the US are certified by anyone.
I just bought an RDS aluminum L-shape transfer tank and a GPI pump. The tank is 95 gals and well built. All of our pumps are GPI - we run 5 of them. If you go with a GPI pump go ahead and spend the $50 and get the automatic nozzle. I also recommend a swivel on the hose coming out of the filter base and going into the nozzle. The swivels with prolong the life of the hose, there around $28 a piece. Shop around. I bought the tank at Northern Tool and the pump with accessories at Tractor Supply. The prices were different enough to drive across town.
Brexit is turning into a complete shambles. We don't have any politicians with any backbone who are will to tell the EU to "**** off". They export a lot more to us than we sell to them and rely on our money to subsidise poorer countries, but as the Prime Minister and chancellor of Exchequer both voted to remain in the EU we are going to get stiffed. Graham
What do you do for plating or unloading it before refueling? An automatic nozzle is a must, can't imagine anyone not going for one. Graham
Wow this thread got confusing lol slam a tank on there with plenty of hose and get to work usually 24 ft of hose and definitely a auto shut off nozzle. No need at all whatsoever for baffles in a 100 gallon transfer tank Over 119 gallons your into DOT territory hazmat https://www.dot.state.mn.us/cvo/factsheets/FuelTanks.pdf MN has exemptions for farmers If you need more than about 100 gallons at a time might drop a tank on site and have the fuel truck fill it or make more than one trip with the pickup
Isn’t the limit per tank? I thought I remembered reading the regs and you could haul multiple tanks to get you to the ~300 gallon limit without hazmat.
Here if it's over 100 gallons there's a lot of regulations you need to follow. 200 gallons gets pretty heavy if you're also pulling a trailer and takes up a lot of room. I personally went the cheap route as I don't use it a lot. 100 gallon westeel tank, with cheap fillrite pump and 20' 3/4" hose. It might take me an extra minute to fill up my hoe, but considering I might fill it up once a week on average, i'm fine with it. Tank was $500, pump, hose, nossle etc was only another $350. Filter is a must, I cringe every time I see a slip tank with no filter.
You bet a 100 gallon tank needs baffles. Not only will it cause the tank to move, or tear the mounts over a matter of time from panic stops, but it will eventually destroy the tank. I wouldn't have a tank without baffles on my trucks. Wouldn't trust anyone who would build one without them. Not only does it stop fuel from sloshing around, it's extra support for the tank.
Graham I haven't plated this one. My other trucks have steel tanks with green Diesel labels on them. It's under the hazmat limit so it doesn't have to be unloaded before fueling. Since it's an L-shape tank it fits nicely with a Weatherguard tool box.
Unless you are recycling diesel you do not need a filter on them and they kill pumps in half the time it seems due to restriction.
I will pay $300 to buy a new slip tank pump every few years then spend tens of thousands repairing an engine. I would guess 95% of tank I see have a filter, or more.
You definitely need a filter on a slip tank.
Evidently we are doing something wrong then as we have never had any issues with dirty fuel. Pay more attention to the nozzle being dirty if worried about fuel being dirty.
That looks a very smart set up. Are you going to put a fixed hose reel and pump on it, or do you use the machines own refuelling pump? Graham
With regards filters on mobile tanks I think it depends how you use them. My tank lives indoors when not in use so little chance of condensation. It is only filled when required from a main tank with a 10 micron filter, then used almost immediately, so I don’t bother filtering the fuel again. If I was to have a permanent mounted tank and leave fuel in it I would consider a filter and water trap a good investment. Graham
Graham it has it's own pump, nozzle and dispenser. I have had good luck with GPI pumps.
I live in a sub-tropical environment that gets more rain per year than Seattle WA, a filter is a must on a fuel tank as condensation inside the tank is a constant battle. Also I have drained too many steel fuel tanks in my career and every single one had a shocking amount of rust inside. That's why I went aluminum this time.
That comes from looking on my phone. Now I'm on my desktop I can see it anyway. Looks a really smart set up. Graham
Just loaded my bowser for tomorrow.
Graham what materials do you process with the screen bucket and how well does it work? On a side note I heard a rumor that Ford is bringing the Ranger back to the US with a diesel option. Chevy has put a diesel in the Canyon. How do you like yours?
I normally screen bullets out of sand. It works well for that, but you need to make sure the brushes are in good condition or it will clog easily. I like the ranger. I have the 3.2l automatic. Plenty of power to tow to our limit of 3500kg and very comfortable compared to my last pickup, a Landrover Defender. The only downside was it broke a piston ring at 62,000 miles, 2000 out of warranty, so Ford we no help even though it was less than two years old.
Graham … Bullets ? Nato 5.56 are pretty small … So you must be doing 50 caliber or better. Tell us more ..
Mainly 5.56 and 9mm. With sieve the sand through 5 x 30mm slots. Most outdoor bullets catchers (berms to you) are covered in sand so it is easy to recover the bullets. We have contracts to clean out mainly military ranges to prevent build up behind the target causing ricochet or backsplash. Can’t think of any ranges we cover that are licensed for 50 cal, too powerful. If they miss there is not enough clear land behind.
Doesn't mean everyone who doesn't run a filter will have an issue, or just because you have a filter doesn't mean you won't. But a filter just makes the chances much lower. There is a reason in all types of trucks and equipment filtration is always improving. Like I said, a good 95% of the tanks I see have filters on them, i'd say there is a reason for it.
Filters work good in warmer climates. Not so good at -40. Doesn’t apply to most but is a factor.
My old 110 gal L shape steel tank does not have baffles. Realistically it carries 100 usable gallons with air expansion space. When at 50 gallons the wide bottom base is full and does not slop to where it is noticeable. The upper part has never caused a issue. Now curious, I looked at new ones in Northern Tool and also in L & M Supply and never seen baffles in any of them. I've had mine for 40 years and it has not been a issue yet or moved around yet. I have seen a few that friends owned that leaked because fine road rocks from our "excellent" gravel roads got under them causing wear. Seems to be worse with checker plate flatbeds. I use a piece of conveyor belting under mine and it has been no issue. Square or rectangle tanks may behave differently.
Most every baffled tank I have ever had has leaked at the baffle welds, when you bolt the tank down the flexing causes them to crack right at the Baffle welding