I'm considering getting out of the Stone Age with my old tractors trying to figure what might be the best option. I have had several D7s. E, F and G over the years. They've all been good machines. that old school stuff is really all I know. I do General work of all sorts. Once in awhile a pond but mostly forestry roads and just general country work. Driveways land clearing Etc. I'm thinking of getting rid of my D6 C and D 7 e and getting one somewhat newer tractor to take place of both of them. A D6N looks like it would be a good fit. In the past six way blades just didn't hold up the forestry work. But the newer ones look like they are built pretty heavy. What might be the best General application Dozer for me. What is the difference between a d6m and the d6n? And what are the pros and cons? What a d6k be better? But I don't think I want or can spend that much money. And any other suggestions would be good. I don't want an LGP. Thank you
I actually thought something like a d6h XL would be a real good tractor, but I'm starting to like the idea of a 6-way blade on a bigger tractor. In the past that was always reserved for the small ones for us
A 6 way blade is nice but you get strength in a straight blade. You are relying on the hydraulic rams if you corner blade a stump whereas a straight blade has a big chunk of steel to lean on against the frame.
6M has the fingertip clutch/brake steering controls while 6N is tiller controlled differential steering. 6Ms had issues with those controls. For clearing forestry type work you’d probably be better off when a 6R or 6T and a push arm blade vs a 6 way. A 6K is a low track grading machine, we’ve had people put root rakes on them and use them for forestry type work but they are probably a little light for what you need.
Will you be running the machine yourself? If so I wouldn't be afraid of running a D6N or D6T with a 6 way blade in forestry work. You may have to hunt a little for a T with a 6 way blade but they're out there and you may be happier with the larger machine. Just be aware of the limitations of the 6 way blade and don't push hard on the blade corners with it angled to it's limits. My experience has been if you're not against the cylinder stops when pushing hard the relief valve opens before you damage anything...
Just for the record there is a lot of difference between a D6K, D6N and D6T. Owned a D6R XW and a D6N. Liked both tractors but for different reasons. The 6N with 6-way blade was a well balanced grading tractor that could hog dirt in a slot. The D6R was a push arm version and could move twice as much dirt in a slot as the 6N but wasn't nibble enough to fine a grade a small parking lot. Each tractor has its place. Matt for what you want to do a D6N would be a nice fit but they are still pricey.
Excellent points. I never understood why Cat had three D6 machines when they're so different from each other. They've changed that now. I love the D6N I run. It's considerably larger than a D6K but still very nimble and as CM1995 noted smaller then the D6T. One thing I've found is the machines with a ripper or winch mounted tend to be better balanced then the bare back machines and there's always use for one or the other IMO.
Yep, i have the same problem with my D6N with no winch or ripper mounted. It seems that the front of the dozer is much heavier and there is insufficient balance. I thought maybe I could balance it, but I don't make any use from a ripper, all that remains is to either put a winch or build an equivalent weight. How do you usually use a winch? Is it worth paying such money?
Probably depends on what you do mostly. If it's mainly dirt work, grading, etc. I prefer a ripper. A winch if you're doing lots of forestry work or pulling trucks or other machines. Others may have better ideas.
I think there was a thread on this forum several years ago discussing dozer balance and one poster described making his own counterweight. If I remember correctly he drove the machine onto two blocks at the midpoint of the undercarriage and added weight on the back until the machine balanced. YMMV.
Thanks and sorry for off topic. I'll look it up, but the search tool doesn't work in a way i understand. My thought was a little simpler, but probably less effective- for example, add a weight similar to a winch or ripper using agriculture counterweight. As far as i know D6 winch weight aprox. 1.2T (2700lbs). How much does a full ripper weigh?
From memory the winch and ripper have about the same weight.
Cat makes counterweight kits for these dozers. Basically like agricultural weights.
In my opinion, rippers have more versatility than weights. One can use them for processing as well as ripping. Add in the counterbalance that they also offer I think that they are worth the extra money. In fact I have a hard time understanding bareback dozers. In my experience I don't see hardly any out west. Most are in the mid-west and east. I'm not sure if that's a regional preference or if it's because the soils are harder. To play devils advocate, sometimes the rippers can get in the way when transitioning very steep angles. I haven't had that experience on Cat dozers (so far anyway) but did experience that on a Case 650 about 10 years ago.
Yep. Ripping, processing, drying a wet lift, breaking up compaction so a basin drains, etc, etc, etc. Then there's the capability of lifting the entire machine off the ground for blocking or just tightening the top of the track to make track clean out easier at the end of the day. I'll gladly put up with the occasional scratching while doing a slope transition.
The D6M's I have seen were all the older style big levers on the left side for steering, like all the early high track dozers. They were non electronic machines D6N's had/have either diff steer or finger tip control whatever the customer ordered. Different engines in the D6N and M as well.