Hello, can anyone point me to some troubleshooting tips on how to get this unit to start? The previous owner stated it progressively got harder and harder to start, he replaced fuel filters, rebuilt injector pump, and put in fresh fuel. Thanks for your help! Mike
Welcome to the forum mikec35. :usa I'm not familiar with that engine. You mentioned the injection pump was replaced, is it a diesel?
The engine is a 3 cylinder diesel, model TMD20. Loader is a ditch witch 1025 sk extendahoe. Thanks
Ok, you said it has progressively got harder to start. Once it does start, how well does it run? How bad does it smoke? If it does, is it a real strong diesel smoke that will kinda burn your eyes? Does starting fluid help it start? Did former owner go through the injectors as well?
It won't start at all, he said it got progressively harder and harder to start then it wouldn't start. He thinks the compression was getting worse and worse to the point where it wouldn't start. I have gas engine experience, no diesel. I could use some tips to try to start, also do you check compression on a diesel the same as a gas engine? Thanks
If it won't fire on starting fluid, it's probable that the engine is done. One possiblity is seriously worn valves leaking compression, but that's not that common on a diesel. There are three main components necessary for a diesel to run. 1) fuel, 2) oxygen for the fire, and 3) source of ignition. That is compression. Without sufficient compression, it won't even start on starting fluid. Testing compression is different than on gas engines. On them, you screw the test gauge in spark plug hole, a diesel doesn't have one. You have to remove an injector and insert a special adapter in the injector hole to test the compression.
Sometimes turning the diesel engine over with a wrench will give you an idea of what is going on inside. If it turns backwards or 'rocks back' on the compression stroke, then it's a good sign. Likely you can't do this, probably a pump on the front of the engine. Sometimes just bumping the starter will give you a clue. If the piston rings are scoring from coolant leakage, or poor air filtration, or the engine has overheated and the rings have lost their tension, it might explain a gradual loss of compression. If you don't get any smoke out the exhaust at all, then I'm wondering if the engine is getting any fuel at all. After changing the injection pump, or fuel filters, did the previous owner successfully bleed the system? If the fuel tank is lower than the injection pump, then draining back of the fuel might be a possibility, from a suction leak or failing check, causing harder and harder starting. Not being familiar with this engine, I'm assuming it has no glow plugs. Phil
Thanks for the replies! The previous owner has a temporary tank sitting low on the frame. Also not sure if he bled the system, how difficult is it to bleed the system? Thx
Does it have a lift pump to supply the fuel to injector pump? Some have a simple hand lever to help prime. once you have fuel going to the injector pump start by breaking one line loose at injector and crank it a little till you get fuel then tighten and move to the next one. once you have fuel at the injectors it should fire off. Don't burn up the starter doing this. give it some time to cool between tries.
Checking for fuel I don't get any at the injectors. It is going through the big and little fuel filters. The injector pump was rebuilt and checked. I don't think it is working right, either not flowing or not getting proper power. Anyone know how to check for both fuel flow and power at the pump? Thanks
To check for fuel flow, find the fuel return line from the injection pump, disconnect it and see if fuel comes out while cranking. Not sure what you mean by 'power' at the pump...whether or not it's turning, or power is supplied to the shut-off solenoid, or it's high pressure fuel output. A test light will verify that the solenoid is getting power with the key on, and sometimes one can feel or hear the solenoid valve open, so do check that also. I think at this point, if you suspect your injectors are not getting fuel, then try and verify the pump is full of fuel. Lots of unknowns here, I don't know what type of pump you have. I'm still suspecting an 'air in the fuel supply' problem. Do you have a lift pump or not? Would you post a picture of the side of the engine showing the injection pump? Do you have a way of providing a separate fuel supply, to the primary fuel filter; and placing it higher than the injection pump, like a jerry can on the hood? Phil
Since I posted the question I did some more work and I think I am getting fuel to the injectors. I bled them and I get a little fuel to each one (not sure how much should fuel should flow to each injector). Don't know what kind of pump it is, I am no longer at the unit. I think we have a glow plug problem now, 2 were warm and one wasn't. Went to Auto parts store to get one and the only one they had was about 1/4" short. Can't find the exact one, do you think the shorter one will work? The plug I took out was a Bosch 8410250200053. Thanks
Mike, That may shed a different light on things. However with 2 out of 4 glow plugs working, it would try and start, although a cold engine probably wouldn't. You would see smoke out the exhaust too. Ether and glow plugs usually don't mix, however there are a few rare engines that do seem to require this. I wouldn't use ether on this engine, to be safe. Take the glow plug to your local fuel injection shop and they will get you the correct replacement. A shorter glow plug may not be in the correct position in the pre-combustion chamber. Take all your glow plugs out and check them with a car battery. I'm assuming these are wired in parallel and are 12volt. Should be a common wire or wires, joining the end of each glow plug. Most glow plugs have a time limit and the glow pug wiring will have a timer or maybe some form of current limiting, built in. Ask when you get replacements, they may be able to tell you the maximum time your glow plugs can stay on. It seems the logical path to get your glow plugs working and go from there. Phil
It started once we installed a new glow plug...but it won't stay running. You have to keep the cold start button pushed in or it dies. Any suggestions where we go from here? Thanks!
Maybe a crazy though...but is it possible the glow plug circuit powers the fuel solenoid as well? And, there's a problem with the ignition circuit "not powering" the fuel circuit? The result would be when you release the glow plugs it dies. Have no idea...just thought I would throw that out here.
Mix up a 50/50 mix of gasoline and kerosene and soak a rag in it. hold it across the air intake and have someone crank it up. if it keeps running while doing this you are not getting enough fuel. The fact that it will run if you keep the glow plugs on suggest lack of compression as a possible problem.
A compression check seems next, if all else fails. The only other thing I can think of is to check the injection pump timing, since the pump has been replaced; also pull an injector out, re-attach it to the high pressure line and check the spray pattern while cranking. Phil
We got it running now... runs good. trying it out everything works but the front bucket is squirting fluid out of the front cylinder. How difficult is it to repair the seal in the cylinder? Any tips? Thanks
Ditch Witch 1025SK I realize this is a very old post.. Was curious if the owner could tell me where to look for a fuse block or maybe even the relay for the glow plugs.. I get no power to the glow plugs when cold start is pushed... Ditch witch is now in my opinion something homeowners playing in thier back yard should stay away from.. Just the owners manual/80 pages of primarily disclaimers and warning label locations was $80 plus another $20 to mail it.. Way too pricey for hobbyists... Nice machine when working though...