What are the different types and descriptions of dozer blades. What blades are suited for what types of jobs?
I guess the question comes to mind is what are you searching for?. There several types of blades for different applications!. You have earth moving, Roads, Coal, Mining, the list goes on. There are several manufactures of blades, Depending on the type of work. Hope this helps some what?. Allan
Sorry, I guess my question was pretty wide open. I'm really trying to fiqure out what my 1987 Cat D4B has. For some reson I am unable to upload a picture. However, my blade is straight across the top and bottom, then flares out about 6" at the sides. Creating somewhat of a "U" shape. What would this blade be best suited for?
Most likely because of the type tractor it is on would be general grading, don't think I have ever seen a true 'U' blade, which is a high production type blade for larger tractors( D8, D9,D10), on a D4
Sound like a "semi-u blade", from what you describe.
Generally speaking a D4 was used for finishing or slope work. It's a machine weather a " High drive " or " Low Drive " Is indeed a general duty machine. Most of these blade configuration were either straight blade or " 3 " way blades, meaning it has a valve on the front control that allows you to tilt, angle, and lift. Hope this helps!. Allan
D4B machines either had an angle blade or a semi universal blade for the most part. I have seen a machine with a custom built U blade and a winch that was used in the logging industry for something. It was too small to cut road and too heavy in the front to drag logs. Later small machines use a PAT blade configuration. PAT stands for power angle/tilt. Some people refer to these as six way blades.
Thanks, I gather it's a six way with a straight blade. I've been very impressed by how well it does the finish grading. Very easy to control and create smooth surfaces.
The way I read his question is what are the different types of blades, and what is each used for. There are 3 basic blade designs; Straight, semi-u, and U blade. The straight blade is just that, a straight cutter bar blade with no wings on the end. Ideal for finish work. Straight blades will typically be PAT as John C stated, allowing operator to change blade positions to do finish work. With no wings, spoils will roll out ends leaving windrows. The semi-u is straight until it nears the ends, then has small wings that turn forward. Used for some finish work but more for general dozer grading. The wings of the semi-u allow more material to be carried without spilling out ends. The U-blade is typically used in high capacity moving of material, like a coal pile. The large wings of the U-blade allows the operator to fill a big pile of material and fill the blade, then push it a good distance, carrying the material to a desired drop point.
Well put ATCOEQUIP,dont forget cushon blades for loading scrapers,rome plow for clearing trees,& root rake blade for cleaning up ground & piling brush.
Yep, there are other blades 25c, I was just describing the basic blade designs. I've also seen a blade hinged in the middle to make a V, used by forestry service cutting fire lines. OCR may have seen one of these.
Are blades ever manufactured with a tree pusher on them, or is that strictly an aftermarket modification?
Here's some pages from my Komatsu catalogue from the 80s.
Hi Anyone heard of or better got any photos of the D8R & D9R blade with the rippers in them They where made by Cat or ever made the blades for them I worked with a guy who said for roading rock work stumping etc very good
Will D8R, Here's an early Cat D7 with "ripper blade". Also an IH doing good work clearing stumps.
That's a pretty mean looking blade there! I could sure use that pulling all the stumps out that I do.
I cant start a new thread so this thread seems the most appropriate for my question. My Grandfather recently purchased a D3C, and bought a root rake blade for it last week. My Father and I tried to install it yesterday, it appeared that we had to unbolt the ball assembly from the dozer and bolt it around the new blade and them put the whole assembly back on the dozer. Trying to do this we were only able to get the whole assembly to slide almost 2" out and it seemed to hit a stopping point. Are we going about this the wrong way? Is there and tricks to this?