I am trying to get some ideas (pics) of the ideal tree boom to build and put on the TD-9 to help push over trees . I have some 3 inch OD thick wall pipe (about 34 feet) that I "think" will hold up to the stress without bending or breaking if I can get the right design that Im sure some of you have that is working for you . Will some of you share some of your craftsman ship on designs (pics) that you have made and if possible give me some advice ? I am a pretty good welder , and a desent designer , but you guys have been there and done that so I thought it would be a good plan to just ask , and get it done right the first time ! Thanks guys , Wingnut :notworthy
I haven't seen a dozer with tree stick in a long while but from memory they use an A frame to get close to the blade pivot and then use crossmembers to strengthen the frame sort of like this http://www.rocklandmfg.com/Dozers/tree_boom.htm except the A frame floats on the blade.
you cant go too heavy... well you can, but you'd have to try hard. If the weight in a tree spear is too heavy it will put extra wear on the idlers and blade group bushings. So a pic of a blade mounted spear on a 6B... way to litght for the job but you'll get the principal. And one mounted on the frameof a D2 6U.. far more substantial There's also a pic of another one here... but I don't know how to link to it and it won't let me upload it again... it's an overkill job, can't remember the thread
heres a few photos of the spear on our hitachi dx175 we had the same design on our old D6D. cheers Bevan
Thanks for the pics guys :cool2 It looks that all these booms are made out of square tubing , does it make them stronger than pipe ? I was thinking of making one that is removable so I can use my rake , do you guys have issues with the boom getting in the way of other work , or are they removable as well ? Thanks guys , Wingnut
wingnut, I had this one on a D4D, it was easily removable (2 pins on the C frame) and we did so when not using it to save wear and tear as stated in an earlier post and to stop her standing on her nose too much when reversing as we sometimes were in steep country.
Rusted , Thanks for the picture . That is kinda the design I was thinking of . Is it secured to the blade as well or does it just lay on it ? They all (all pics) look like they do very well and get the job done . I dont know why , but I havent seen any dozers in my area with tree booms attached on them , maybe its cause their dozers are bigger than mine LOL. :beatsme . I am not wanting to do more than the TD-9 can handle , just wanting to make it easier for the trees that I can handle without to much wear and tear (guessing that it helps). If a boom is on a dozer , do you need to cut roots as much or does the boom help elemanate (sp?) that being that its getting more leverage higher on a tree ? I know that it probably depends on the tree that I come up on , but Im just courious ? Ive never seen one in action . Thanks guys , Wingnut :notworthy
wingnut..no, they aren't attached to the blade, they just sit on the top....some people weld a couple of small wear pads on the top of the blade if they plan to carry the tree spear a lot. Yes, the leverage will help a lot with the size of tree you can push without digging around the roots, or at least minimising it. I have a better shot of it somewhere taken from the front....but can't seem to find it right now, I'll post it if I find it.
Hi Wingnut two pins in the rear section cant really see in the photos i posted will try another it can hinder the rolling action of dirt and rock but 10 mins to remove if doing a lot of earthwork. on cutting or ripping roots it depends on the tree ,soil conditions(wet,dry,clay,sand etc) too much leverage can result in snapping the tree off leaving a nasty stump that has to be dug out. best of luck Bevan
heres a photo of pin set up not the best pic
Question guys : If pushing on a tree , and the spear is only held on by the pins on the rear (like a hinge), Does that mean that the spear is designed to lift or tilt up from the blade (depending on design) as the tree is being pushed over so the dozer blade can catch the roots as they are being up rooted for minimal blade movement and to get it all in one shot ? Or is it just to get the tree leaning in the direction to fall so I can back up and get the roots on another pass ? :beatsme Sorry for so many questions , but like I said before , Ive never seen one in action so I am not sure what to expect , (except for a tree to push over LOL). I like all the designs yall have shown me , Thanks for all your help ! Wingnut
I've seen the same thing done for a wheel loader. A local guy here mounted all the forestry guards on his Bell 2306C wheel loader, and did the same for the bucket. The 'boom' was mounted onto the bucket, along the back of the bucket, and then used in the same way. I never got some pics :Banghead, but he's taken it all off now, and it just does earthmoving now.
Bellboy , That would have been neat to look at . especially the 2306c Bell wheel loader , Ive never seen a Bell machine . Thanks , Wingnut
I'll most certainly look out for it. I don't know much about the Bell C series wheeloaders, but I have operated this particular machine, less all its fancy forestry kit, and its extremely comfortable, and very ergonomic. It has masses of power, and overall, its one of my favourite wheel loaders of all time. When I get some pics, you'll be the first to know. I'll see if the guy will let me into his yard next time he has it, I'll tell him that i'm doing an Art project at school... See if I can get pics of the guards as well, sitting in the back of his yard, rusting.
Hi Wingnut the spear on our machine doesnt ride up and is long enough to push the tree and pick up the rootball in one pass if the spear is short the roots can come up behind the blade and you can end up stuck this is not to say there is anything wrong with short spears you just need to take care. On big trees the roots have come up behind ours we also designed ours to be used with our stickrake attached so it is probably a bit longer than normal. Bevan
Wingnut; I've been looking for tree pusher info (mostly on ACMOC) for my D 7 and ran across your old post on the subject. I'm in Hill County West of Abbott and wished to find out if you built one. Please get in touch.. Thanks, Joe
Wingnut has not logged in here since 2009....
Thanks RC. I.m new to the forum. Are the members email address on here somewhere? I live about 20 miles from Hubbard and would like to see Wingnuts pusher if he built one.
Wow! That looks serious for pushing lumber down....we never see anything lime that around my neck of the woods...
This is what was on mine when I got it. Haven't had a chance to use it yet.
Texaschad25. Looks interesting I'd like to see it sometime. What size are the boom pipes? Deas Plant and mrsmackpaul have a lot of insight on these. I believe they are on this forum..They gave me info on ACMOC.
I haven't seen a post by Deas Plant for a long time. But I think Scrub Puller and others from down under. could give you some insight on these.
Deas just retired in the last few days. I have a feeling we will be hearing more from him with all the time on his hands.
Yair . . . There is a thread on here somewhere about tree pushers/spears with a few pictures all the designs work its just a personal preference thing. I do like the over the blade style as in Rusted's #6 post. The unit in the #20 post is obviously made from what was available and, while it will work It could be a pain in the azz with trees and branches getting hung up in the structure. Incidentally when using a spear the technique is to go in and rest it against the tree at a medium height (experience the best teacher) and gently apply the power. At the optimum height there will be down pressure on the tractor and "lift" on the tree as the tractor trys to walk in under the beam . . . full height is seldom the optimum setting. Cheers.
I do like the over the blade style as in Rusted's #6 post. Incidentally when using a spear the technique is to go in and rest it against the tree at a medium height (experience the best teacher) and gently apply the power. At the optimum height there will be down pressure on the tractor and "lift" on the tree as the tractor trys to walk in under the beam . . . full height is seldom the optimum setting. Cheers.[/QUOTE] Scrub Puller I'm going to weld up one like #6 style. And thanks for the pointers on using it.
You're working pretty steep ground there.
Yair . . . COBB CREEK Good one mate . . . you will post some photos when its done? Just watch the geometry. If you have a bull blade you may not be able to go with a straight beam like Rusted . . . you may have crank it down like this one we built back in the early 'sixties. Cheers.
Amazing what you can do with a tree pusher ain't it? Cobb Creek Avoid using pipe if you can. Depending on the hp of your D7, you might be able to get away with a heavy wall rhs, but if you're going to do some serious work with it, I'd weld two heavy angles together to make a rectangular section. Cheers, Greg
Scrub Puller; Who is the man holding the blade up in the photo ?
Yair . . . Tinkerer I understand your question completely . . . it's not a good look is it. (big grin) . . . and if anyone is wondering at the perspective it is not your eyes. It is a "V" blade on the centre machine of a three tractor pulling setup. Cheers.
I bet I have a bigger grin, Scrubs !
My apologies, I'm replying from the comfort of my nice warm bed, so I'm not out by the dozer right now. Best I recall, the pipe is either 3.5" or 4".
Here's two pictures one is my d3 tree knocker I made and the other is my friends d7
Yair . . . That looks effective jwest75801 you have never considered some sort of a cutting edge on there to stop it sliding up a tree? Cheers.
I could not see pipe being very successful at making a tree spear... All the ones I have seen are usually very heavy wall RHS.. The ones attached to the front of the blade you have to be careful you do not bend the front of the blade forward if pushing and lifting at the same time..
I have a strip of a old cutting edge welded to that piece of pipe it is a sch 80 pipe so its not going to bend hasn't yet at least now the square tubing is another story you live and learn. But we like using shears when we can! And the baby vblade Sorry for the delay