I know this is a Bosch inline pump, but which pump is it? I didn't see a data plate, or know where to look at to identify if this is a P, A, or MW pump. Title says truck is a 1992, but I haven't a clue if this is original engine to this truck. Can this be ID'd by the picture or do I need to get a different pic or what? Nothing wrong here, truck starts well and scoots right along empty. Could use a little more oomph for pulling a grade loaded though. Cars back up quick behind me when I leave the gravel pit. I'm just toying with the idea at the moment, and I'm very well aware of what could happen to the engine or drivetrain if I get stupid with this.
Isn't the tag on the top left? use some brake cleaner to see if the paint will come off just enough to read it.
You need thepumpguy.
Yep the tag is there but just wonder if using something to strip off the blue paint will strip off the numbers and letter under the paint. I think any one who paints of tags like that need to have an attitude adjustment up the back of the head! Yea agree with contacting thepumpguysc!
I have turned mine up to max it's a MW pump. I suggest getting a EGT gauge before doing this.
I always put at least five coats of paint on any tags so I can torment someone down the road.
I knew there were people out there like you!
And I'm the guy who rips them off and flicks them in the trash so you have few less to paint over and to torment someone down the road.
Don't let thepumpguy see this thread, just go on the cummins forums and learn all the good secrets thepumpguy doesn't know about, no reason to torment him with something over his head, don't even need the numbers that way
Painting over is only a misdemeanor offence now Removing Tags, Nomenclature Plates and Mattress Tags is a federal offence and all crimes of that nature have to cross the bench of Honorable Judge K S Hansen who will hand down a hanging sentence or life sentence shoveling dog **** in your bare feet and wearing it on your head for eternity.
Your pump is an MW pump, or you think mine is? If I do wander down that road, a boost gauge and pyrometer will be added first. Truck also could use a trans temp gauge, but we'll see if I actually play with it or not. I took the belly plow off the truck this week and dropped 2000 pounds off my tare weight, improved braking and acceleration as well. Truck is still a bit of a pig at 17,000 pounds for a single axle truck, and I'm overweight on my drives. Box is set too far back to transfer enough weight to my steer. My heaviest load today only put 11,500 on my steer (truck has a 15.4k front axle). So, all that said, I'm just feeding my quest for information for now.
Yours is the MW pump, the first one is a Model 100 Ambac pump i.e. A pump that was ran from 1972-'82, second one they put on is the MW Bosch pump that ran till 1993 and the next one is a PLN NGD pump called P3000 and P7100 used 1994-’97 and they all three look way different.
Welp I guess this is me
10-4
Or worse might be working on an old engine and replacing the block with a completely different version and leaving the tag on the block. Or Like an old Detroit just swap the valve cover from another engine, say put a 12V-71 turbo engine cover on an inline 6 NA!
I just watched the first video.. The 1st adjustment is the starting fuel cut out screw.. u just dumped an ass-loads of fuel into the engine. The rate screw should have been done 1st..(star wheel) & NEVER TOUCH THE STARTING FUEL CUT OUT SCREW.!!
@thepumpguysc Hoping you can answer, why does my truck start so well, even near 0degF? I've been around a fair amount of diesel farm equipment and they all had to be pampered quite well to start below freezing. My DT466 with the Bosch pump starts super quick (like 2 revolutions when above freezing, and within 20 seconds, even below freezing, smokes a touch at startup, but clears up fairly quickly. Is that a known characteristic of that engine/pump combination, or did I just get lucky with an easy starting truck? I'm considering buying another one if the right truck comes around. I have not done anything to my engine or pump; they are as they were when I bought the truck 2 years ago. I have no prior history as this was bought at an auction. The safety wire is still on the pump, so I don't think it has been tinkered with.
Mine does the same thing, doesn't matter what temperature it is it's two revolutions and off we go. My "opinion" is it's due to the "small" displacement engine size it is compared to a 8.3 or larger.
Colson, what kind of equipment are you comparing this to? I figure anything in good shape and built since 1990 should start quickly at freezing. Even some back to the 60's start OK at freezing. 20 degrees down to zero is what really separates the men from the boys. Then they have to be plugged in to start below zero, or have top notch batteries, starter, and cold start assist-either glow plugs, intake heater, or ether injection. I figure you can't blame a 40 year old tractor engine for not starting at 10-30 degrees if it has an original starter, cables, 15w40 oil, stale fuel etc. I admit, I'm not a dairy farmer starting up the tractor every day to spread manure. I don't work at all in the cold, and if I have to start something up I'll plug it in if I have the chance, even above freezing usually. So my experience is limited to here and there over the years.
See, I told you you needed thepumpguy.
I can just offer some general experience at starting cold. Since generator engines need to start right now unattended. It has to do with the injection system and engine design that the manufacturer chose. Direct injection is the main key but not everything. Engines that start easy cold are various Detroit 2 cycle engines of course. GM Bedford from the 1960s were an easy starter. John Deere usually. Cummins small engines like the 5.9 and 8.3. Ford 6.6 and 7.8 always started right up. Cat 3208 usually. 466 engines were hit or miss, there were some from the 1980s that had a funky feature in the injection pump that would make them sputter and die at first even though they sounded and felt like they should start right up. I know I have heard why, TPG can probably explain. Engines that do not start at all would be various IDI engines such as small Japanese diesels right up to today, and Ford/IH 6.9 or 7.3 IDI engines. They absolutely had to have preheat or would not work in the slightest.
So, what are the advantages of IDI?
Mostly old Deere tractors. We had a 6410 that could be a bear to start if below freezing. Our 4440, before and after overhaul, never wanted to start well cold. Any Kubota engines need glow plugs, even at 60-70degrees. My 743 w/the V1702 Kubota engine needed glow plugs even if it had been running. The 3.9B Cummins always start good for us in the skid steers. Our 7.8L Fords (we have 3 of them) are not much for good starting below freezing, or even below 40degrees. Also my 310A backhoe, completely overhauled 450 hours ago, isn't much for a good starter when cold, even now with a fresh set of batteries, new starter and cables. I've just never seen one like this DT466 that comes to life so fast in comparison, given its age at any temperature.
Yea the quarry had a Bobcat with the Kubota V1702, dang cold blooded thing! About the only thing worse was a KW we had that due to having a left over overhaul kit for an off-highway I believe NT420 Cummins we used that kit for the old KW. If you were not sweating walking out to start it you either had to have it plugged in or give it a wiff of the can, not much but just a half second shot while cranking. Once it ran a few seconds it was fine. Actually the guys who drove it all liked it, been too long to recall what it had for transmission or rear ends but more than one driver said running empty or light it could hit 100! Also seem to recall that before we got it the part of the company that had it had repowered it from the 8V92, one of the very early ones that had block problems, that it came with and also the read suspension looked like it had been changed from the factory set up. Kind of a shop built truck from spare parts out back!
Series 60 12.7 and especially the DD15 and DD16 will fire at the drop of a hat at 0*.