any cheap and easy way of fixing these the part on the truck I got figured out on getting tightened up but the box parts is loose and short of line boaring or cutting the block off and replacing any ideas. The pins are 2 inch would stepping down a size hurt it is a ten yard box
Welcome to the Forums rmk4x4! :drinkup Are the pin/bushings loose or the ears on the dump bed spread apart? If it's loose I am not understanding why you would want to go down a pin size?
Are they supposed to be tight? I have a 30yd box on my dumptruck. The hinges have play in them, I figured it was normal.
They are loose on both the truck and box I was thinking of going down a size so I could weld in a bushing as it is now the bushings are gone if it ever had any it binds when up all the way I have to give it a good jerk forward to lower. It also sways a lot when your up all the way it does not have to be perfect but would like less slop with out spending a ton on it
If the holes are out of round and i bet they are it wouldnt be long before the bushings were shot. Cheap and easy do not go to gather.
How much of the wear is in the pin? Maybe new pins would get you close enough?
Yair . . . I'm a bit bushed here, some pictures would be nice . . . are we talking the actual pins/pivots the body tips on? If so rmk4x4 it needs fixing properly. It would have started life with standard clearances as found in any other pivot point on machinery. Cheers
If pins are run sloppy,, its a good way to tip a truck over.... fix them properly.
not the best pics in the world but you can see on the pin how worn out it is if I could source the part that is welded on the box I would replace it the truck ears I have some bosses I can weld on and put longer pins in
Well I posted a bunch of info and the site erased it. I'm getting pretty darn fed up with this problem!!!!!! My truck similar to these: http://truckstopusa.com/showthread.php?29254-Repair-of-loose-dump-box-hinge-pins
when you have a load in it will sway when you have the bed up and makes for spreading with the chains on the gate not much fun with sway.
here it is the day I brought it home I picked it up for 1k with a plow and sander had to drive out in the woods about 30 miles off the road to a homestead wear the owner had passed away. It was there with no hood on it and blue tarp over the engine. I charged the air on it and roll started it with my pick up and threw on the hood and drove home 60 miles with it. it has a n-14 15speed over drive with a 18k front and 40k rears the truck runs and drives good I am painting it and fixing all the loose stuff on the bed. and to top it off the engine had just had a out of frame rebuild
The hinges and the multistage cylinder look like Heil to me. All the ones I have seen over the last 40+ years have the pin locked in the hinge part that is welded to the frame and the center sections that are welded to the box have no bearings and many of them don't even come with grease fittings. Other than welding and line boring the best way to repair is to cut off the old parts and either buy or have new parts made at a machine shop. Here is a link that may be of help: http://www.tbeidumpbodyparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25&products_id=1412
Damn, you got that for less than scrap value.:thumbsup At first I didn't understand which part of the dump body you were talking about or it could have been my feeble mind early in the morning with only 1 cup of coffee and working on New Years Eve. In my mind I was thinking the tailgate hinges.:beatsme I concur with the others that you really need to think about spending a little $$ and fixing it correctly. With that being said, what are your intended uses for the truck? If you are putting it on the road to use everyday, then fix it right.
I don't intend on starting an argument but in my opinion based on the pictures there is nothing I would worry about there, with a heavy (probably spring) suspension with short sides and relatively short bed I wouldn't be worried about flipping it because of the pins, most all of my trucks have more wear than that, I've had several new beds installed and pins aren't tight tolerance like heavy iron. So in short sorry to disagree with everyone but I don't think you have a issue unless you guys are seeing something more in the pictures than I am ? Pj
Agree that the hinges on these bodies are not held to close tolerances when new. Like I said some don't even have grease fittings. Guess they figure a truck might haul 8 to 10 loads in a day so they only move that many times in a day. Now a front end loader will go through that many cycles in less than 5 minutes on a busy day, so the need for a better pin and bushing design is obvious.
More than scrap unless it weighs more than 25,000lbs. But still a great price! We don't get much for metal here, 70-80$ a ton. Some years back had to PAY to get rid of metal. I always worry about tipping when dumping, I have a pretty large box on my truck.
I have been around several dumps that acted like they were sticking when they were all the way up. I dont think it is the best thing to do puting it all the way up. Not to belittlie you but is this your first dump truck? They are a little scary and most will move around some with the bed up. This looks to be a good truck i think you made a great buy. I think your hinges are good to go but i would greese them up.
You better take a closer look at his second picture.... my lord you could throw a tomcat between that pin and pin boss,,, that is more than enough slop to tip that truck on its side. I know he didn't pay much for it, but no sense wrecking it.
I looked again, I'm sorry I just don't see a problem, I see wear but I don't see spending money on something no worse than that on a $1k truck or a even a 20k rig. If you get a truck setup right they don't tip as easy as everyone let's on they do Pj
Are you sure it's the hinges that are locking up and not the lift cylinder over extending?
I agree totally with this post. A hinge with clearance won't seize......plain an simple Pj
Yair . . . Dunno, but I wouldn't think those hinges would be all that inclined to stick. (he grins) More likely hydraulic as mentioned by buckfever I've not had much to do with tipper/dump trucks but I have built and fitted a couple of bodies and you folks tell me the greasable bushed pivots and the guides and tapered pin locators were a waste of time? Cheers
I agree.
That truck is just a crosswind from going over,,,, but do as you like... I'll continue to repair mine as needed.. I don't want to kill anybody .
As I said to start with I do not wish to start an argument and I have stated my opinion but I do feel that I need to make another post to defend myself so here it goes.............. Grandpa, Being a bit dramatic there aren't we? as far as the truck being "just a crosswind away from going over"...... Nah believe me it's far from it, it was rocked back and forth pretty aggressively to get out of the hole it was in ended up being drug out with a dozer (hence the chain) if you seen the back of the frame during the time of this pic you would flip out, double-triple frame truck with 46k walking beams even with a load of muck stuck in the nose it was far from tipping (maybe your used to air ride trucks and have little experience with springs? No offense intended ) but...... I know what I'm doing, after all I stayed at a motel6 one time haha Repair them if you'd like just don't try to force your opinions on anyone else or make mention that i am trying to kill someone because that is rediculous and I do take strong offense to that remark. I was simply giving a opinion to the OP and stating why I believed so With all of that being said I do not deny the fact that even the most ridged of trucks can tip over just as any truck can hit a power line, it is the drivers responsibility to employ some common sense, we also have air ride dumps and rarely dump air...... Am I trying to kill someone there too? I would rather have a ridgid truck such as the red one in above post or the OP with a little slop in a hinge on a slope than a brand new air ride truck on a slope anyday of the week "I treat everybody the same...... I give em all grief." For some reason i do believe that statement to be 100% correct Pj
Yeah, I was basing that on our scrap prices locally - $100 to 140 per 1k pounds. I got $.14 a lb for the scrap off the demo job I just completed. However, we have quite a few furnaces locally.
Powerjoke ,,,, you and I should go into business together... between the two of us we'd know everything.... you know every thing but..... nope, I won't go there..... Proud of me MODS?
I didn't mean to say a good fitting pin and bushing was a waste of time, just that some manufactures seem to think that way. If I was building one myself I would like to use pins and bushings like Cat and others use on the buckets of FELs. Along with seals on either side of the bushing. Build it that way and give it a shot or two of grease every night to flush ouot any dirt and it would last for many years. One thing that can happen with dumpers is they can get over center if there isn't something to stop them from raising too high. Or if packings are adjusted a little too tight on those multi stage cylinders can also cause the problem. I just last month had to back off the packings on one about 1/2 turn on each one and this truck had been running for a year like that.
Yair . . . Gotcha mate. I checked a few out locally, a couple dry and sloppy but most were tight and greased. Cheers.
At the risk of wading into a quagmire, I agree with Powerjoke on this one. Those pins would not cause me two seconds of thought. It took many years of use to wear them that little bit, and I wager they will outlive the truck if left alone. I also agree the cylinder ism much more likely of a cause for the bed sticking up. If you had the rare type of job with your truck that it hauled 100 loads per day every day then it may be a problem and need greaseable pins, but I doubt that is the case.
This is my 3rd dump truck first one that I did not convert and was a factory made one. The truck is really in good shape other than need cosmetic tlc I hauled a 100 or so loads this fall with it. The pins are really worse than it looks and I have the bed off and upside down in the shop seems like the right time to fix it. It could be the ram sticking some it seem to have air in it and i can never get it all out.
You really should have hooked the chain into the receiver on the drivers side... really. A motel6 one time, just wasn't quite enough... OCR... lol Happy New Year, everyone... :lmao
Most of these cylinders I have worked on have a small bleeder valve at the top. A little brass fitting that you open to let the air out. Crack it open a little and then try to raise the box when air stops and oil sprays out close it. Some boxes have an access cover inside the box that you can remove to get easy access to this fitting.
Maybe my viewing of it was better than everybody else's :beatsme But I could see at least a quarter inch of wide open space in there. When its all said and done please report back to us how much better that truck is to spread with.
r u :stirthepot :soapbox
I like my pins tight and well greased. I have two dumps, one with a Brandon and another with a Bibeau box. They have greasable pins and I don't mind plenty of grease. I think it's good that they are tight when the truck is empty and bouncing around. I do a lot of spreading on uneven roads. I like a spring walking beam suspension for this work. FWD
I just see the mounts for the pins that look a little egg shaped, hard to tell how off it is without a pin in there. Rmk4x4, that truck seems familiar, are you on the Alaska 4x4 web board?
I don't think I have ever posted a pic of that truck on there. yeah I am on there too but these days I have more iron than I do 4x4's and don't get the enjoyment I did 15 years ago out of it so many people on the trails.
So my plan is to rig up a boring bar a little redneck but has worked in the past and line bore the holes out to fit a bushing and weld the bushing in and keep grease in it should be a pretty easy fix. The bed is off of the truck and upside down in the shop now I have lots of stuff for the gate latch that need to be welded and re drilled. Might be over kill to get them tight tipping of is not that much of a worrie to me I just like to have things right it will be a nice clean older truck when I am done.
I don't think you did but I remembered you talking about the dumptruck a bit. I figured there weren't too many folks in Slowdotna with a similar truck.
While it is better to have the pins and bushes nice and snug, I would not consider that amount of wear to be a big problem. If you think about it, when the body is tipped with a load on it, all of the weight would be bearing down on top of the pin. If it is going to tip over, it will anyway, because the forces that are required to tip a truck over when spreading, would soon twist the chassis. We had a 25' semi tipper, with at least 1/2' slop in the pin and bushes and we worked it like that for years. I did tip it over eventually, but that was more operator error than the worn pivots. RnR.
I rigged up a line boring bar few nights ago and got my bosses turned out to 2.25 so looks like I can just up the pin size. I am picking up some cold roll for the pins tomorrow and turn them down from 2.25 if I need to. I did the truck end as well and I think it will work out. sorry no pics I am not allowed to have my phone in the shop the wife got tired of buying new phones every few months. I think it will work out well not what to paint it with. My local Columbia paints has some urathan paint for 55 a gallon I am thining of trying it they use it on the oil platforms and it holds up well and with salt and our weather that is saying somthing
I like it when people update threads got the bed and and hyro tank painted the bed turned out to need a lot of small things done
I am doing the cab and frame now I HATE painting and prep work and this year seem like everything is in need of it I sprayed the bed with a airless sprayer with a fine finish tip and it came out well not perfect but good enough for a dump box
Well fixing my hinges made a huge differance well worth the time.
Hey have a customer looking at a freightliner with a mbe4000 475 horse. I haven't been around any of them just cats and cummins. Anyone have any experience with these motors good or stay away from the my thanks for any input
Glad it made a difference for you. Thanks for the updates. It looks like you made a really nice truck out of what you had.
Is there a chain or cable connected to the box somewhere that pulls the control valve to neutral when the box is full up? Most dumps have these and it keeps the telescopic cylinder from topping out, might be part of the reason it's sticking at the top....
It does have a stop valve but with rebuilt hinges works perfect now
I bet it makes a huge difference!! So, for my own curiosity, how much wear do you figure the original pins and boss's had?