Ford F750 5 yard; Rear tires Pacifica QZ 301, 10.00 20. Load range G (5842 lbs). After 4 years with no flats I got my first one. Got it fixed and next trip back got my second one. The tires sure are strong, as I carried the load fine both times on the one remaining good tire on that side. My yard is crushing 4 inch minus for a road project and there are a lot of large sharp edges; I think that's what is puncturing the tires. Instead of fixing the second one I want to get a set of new tires. The only ones available locally are the same ones I have now. Are there any tires this size that are especially puncture resistant?
Ha-good one. If only I didn't have to drive on pavement.
Going to a 10.00R 20 (radial) may help, if you can find some. Or, you can get some used rims and go to an 11R 22.5
Would a radial be more puncture resistant than a bias ply? I'm going to a different tire guy tomorrow to see what he's got.
Only 10.00- 20 I could find were Double Coin. I loved the tires, but wanted to move them to a newer truck when I changed trucks. No one wanted to dismount tires from the rusty wheels I had. No one could supply new 10.00-20 wheels. I had no choice but 11.00 -22.5 wheels & tires on recap casings.
Radials are better tubless rims are the only way to go They are so old at this point that any junker should be able to come up with a few tires are cheaper and more available and you can shove a plug in a nail hole and be back to work in 10 mins
Not a tire shop here will change a Split Rim and show them a three piece they will just say no. Easier to just buy 22.5 rims and add radials that are plentiful.
Thanks all. I am now trying to locate some 22.5 rims. Not much available in my area.
Have cast spoke centers? or Budd wheels? ANY truck Salvage should have either.
What DMiller is after, do the truck rims look like the 1st picture or the 2nd? 1st are Dayton's, second are budd's. The other thing I wanted to ask. When you are having your punctures, are you getting small slivers stuck in the tread, and then they get drilled into the tire? Or are you getting big rocks and they are cutting the whole tire? I find that small tight tread will last longer, but are more prone to small rocks getting stuck in them and then they "drill" into the tire. If that's what you have going on, go to a larger block tire with larger gaps in between, the little rocks don't have anything to get stuck in then and just fall out. If you have large flat rocks that are sharp and knife cutting the gaps, then a tighter tread is better. I like a big lug tire, like these DM04 , small rocks just fall out. Some places sell what they call a "waste hauler" type tire, which is similar- the trash guys use them and they don't get rocks stuck in them, they clean out. You won't get as many miles out of them as you will a tighter tread, but they will dig and don't get rock drilled as easy. Big lug style: I have some with a tread similar to this, and they are really prone to getting small flat stones stuck in the tread:
Budd. Can't find any truck salvage in my area. I have a few tire places looking for me.
New rims aren't that terribly expensive if you go steel, but I'm not in alaska either. I can get them here for $100/ each
May try WA State, get them shipped up, should not be TOO awful.
They are Budds, stud guided. I got two separate punctures from sharp rocks (no rock remains left in tire), and one large cut about 5 inches long, 3/16" deep that did not fully penetrate. I would go with the large lug tire if I had a choice.
Mine on the newer truck are stud centered Budd wheels. I ordered four, in grey. They arrived white & hub centered. A week later I had stud centered white wheels. Alaska may be different.
Yeah, it's the same all over. Nobody listens, nobody reads, nobody cares.
Radials will certainly help, mainly because they are steel belted and steel casing cords as well instead of nylon or other textiles. If you are having that severe conditions, you might want to look at tires with anit-chip compound in them. They are made to resist cuts and abrasions better in harsh conditions than regular highway tires. They are a little more money, but could pay for themselves quickly if you are having that many flats. When you go to the tire shop ask them about the anti-chip tires. Most brands make a steer and drive tread design in an anti-chip compound. For example: Galaxy brand makes a drive tire called a DC-211 in an 11R22.5 radial. The D = drive tire design, and the C = Construction use/anti-chip. Many other brands name their tires similar to that. Good Luck. I am going to be doing this exact same thing in the next week or so. Getting rid of 9.00-20s tube type and going with either 11R22.5 or Low Pro 22.5 tubeless radials.
Thanks. I've got two people looking for solid 22.5 wheels for me now.
My new ones were made in Turkey. That's where the best steel comes from. They temper steel in human blood there.
Can't find any 22.5" Budd wheels in my area. Found some online (WheelsNow.com) -Accuride 27404-and also an import at about half the price, but I'm leery of "imported and cheap". Any suggestions?
I bought from a local tire dealer. I pay his mark up. When it simply won't work, I complain to him. Up until now, he makes the combination work. Tomorrow may be different.
how many do you need hub or stud piloted ?
I need 4, stud centered. I'm awaiting a shipping quote. The Accuride are $110 ea, the others are $59 ea. Supposed to be exactly the same, made by a place that Accuride bought out some time ago. The $59 seems too cheap to me. I'm more concerned with fit than price. Will the wider rims (8 1/4 vs 7 1/2) make any difference in the mounting? Looks like there's plenty of room on the truck, as long as there's enough space between the tires.
thats about the going price 60.00 -70bucks for a run of the mill budd wheel . find out what shipping from va. us would be for 250 pounds
Seemed cheap to me for a brand new wheel, but maybe because I've been seeing some high quotes. I'm not sure I'd know what to do with a wheel that didn't have some rust on it
well you pay the freight i`ll send you 4
Appreciate the offer, but I'm sure shipping east coast to ak would be cost prohibitive.
https://hagermanparts.com/services They have stacks of good used.
I'll check it out, but leery about used wheels I can't check out first.
They don't sell junk, Ask for Dwayne Smalley. It has no bearing on the issue but Smalley is big enough to hunt a bear with a stick.
If anyone has had any experience with ACCURIDE or MEFRO wheels please let me know. Supposedly accuride now owns mefro, but the mefro wheels are about half the price, and I can't figure out why.
I suggest checking with Purcell Tire and Service Center in ANC - 276-7515. Mike Graves is the outside sales guy. They have a good selection of used wheels. They clean them up and powder coat them. Stud piloted (budd) 11r22.5 wheels are getting harder to find. If Mike is unable to help you. NAPA Traction on Post road can order you new ones. I recall buying a set of 8 last year from Traction at $125 each. Diversified Tire in Wasilla is also worth checking for used wheels. New wheels, then TT402 got wrecked a week later. Driver swung a corner too wide in the Carlile yard and ran head- on into a parked, brand new Oshkosh Striker 4500 ARFF rig that was headed to Nome. Fire truck went back to Wisconsin to be fixed and old TT402 is sitting At a Sister company’s yard in Fairbanks being scrapped out one part at a time. As more time passes to protect the innocent, I’ll be able to share more crazy stories of my adventures in the AK fuel biz.
Mefro is China. I’ve purchased them before for off-road, bush applications. I won’t use them on the highway, but big Anchorage based fleets do. I haven’t had problems with them, but the welds are ugly and they are often out of round. Who cares, when the top speed in Dutch Harbor is 35 MPH. They will rust away in 5 Year’s anyways. At $65 bucks a pop, that’s cheaper than painting or powder coating a used wheel.
Thanks for the info. I will check it out.
I rarely get over 30mph when heavy, but when light is when out of round becomes a nuisance. I wonder if the Accuride 27404 would be better quality and worth the $110 vs $59 for Mefro. I'm leery about used tubeless rims; I've had trouble with bent, dented, pitted, etc.
What I am researching for Another project is I can buy Wheels for a Semi cheaper than can for a 1999 F250 SD Ford. Damn factory aluminums get to an age they become porous and leak like a tire full of thorns but find NO holes. Looked up Reman wheels exchange with the local tire guy, $195 EACH including a Core credit, Can buy polished Used ACCURIDE Hub Pilot 24.5s for $175, are used but twice the wheel. Aftermarket wheels are a Joke at $225-300 a pop while OEM Style steels are available for $90 each plus shipping. Can buy NEW Steel Maxions 24.5s for $120 or six Alcoa refurbs with caps for $2100. WTH???
That's the thing that's always perplexed me. So many parts on heavy trucks are cheaper then pickups. Brakes, tires, rims, etc.
Thats funny i know a Dwayne Smalley one time he was going to buy a camo coat some one said it would take the whole forest to cover him up.
I got desperate waiting for my tire dealer to get me a quote on the Accuride wheels. Since he had a set of 1000/20 bias ply handy (Nutech 500) I had him throw them on. I'm not very confident in their longevity, but I need to haul now. Question: Do dump truck tires usually not get balanced?? I'm tired on the vibration and heaving, but my dealer says they don't balance these large tires. Why not?
Some use the balance powder inside the tire. My dealer says it is fraud. Why would the extra weight chose to go where it is needed. Why wouldn't it make imbalance worse?
We sell and use it but until last month i didnt know what it did or didnt do. We put it in big pickup tires some times. A guy at work that needed a alinement bad run his tire tell they were so ruff that it shock bad. It had beads in them i drove it then removed the beads vac them out then drove it agin there was a big diffrents the beads made it shake less. I would love to do some more tests. I wish i could use it in my f600 but it has bias with tubes.
It might do OK sometimes. If you ever get moisture in the air it can clump together. Running along fine and hit a pot hole. That stuff gets knocked off that spot and clumps together some where else. Then the vehicle will have serious steering wheel jerking and vibration. That will not stop until the speed is greatly reduced and that stuff will redistribute. Then you can go again. When you want to check the air pressure you need to bump the valve stem with and air hose first. That blows the powder away from the valve core so they do not leak after your put a gauge on them. Have read some good things on beads but have no experience with them. Weights don't move.
We never balance dump truck tires I have tried power, and spin balanced and find no difference then just leaving them unbalanced If your new tires are vibrating and heaving and riding worse than the old ones then one is out of round and needs to be taken care of Happens all the time with junky imported tires
In truck repair shop my ex boss had a spin balancer for on the truck use Won’t compensate for a out of round tire or a bias ply square tire that sits until builds a flat spot that has to roll awhile to smooth back up Tube types can have a tube bunch up or a off kilter flap that cannot add enough weight to compensate for That and large tires are not rolling that fast to show a reasonably light balance problem
Is the shaking in the steering wheel, or in your seat? That will tell if its the steer tires or drive tires that are messed up. I would be inclined to balance the steers and not mess with the drives. This old truck I just got, has 900-20 radials on it, and they look great. I then looked at the DOT codes on them and realized they were produced in 1995, Yikes!!. So, I am getting new 22.5 rims and putting used low pro tubeless radials on it.
This old truck I just got, has 900-20 radials on it, and they look great. I then looked at the DOT codes on them and realized they were produced in 1995, Yikes!!. So, I am getting new 22.5 rims and putting used low pro tubeless radials on it.
My new to me fire truck converted to a dump has a hop in it. Rear tires are new, but it hopped with the old rears also. Front look good. Inspection station failed me for a dozen reasons. Among them, left front doesn't spin freely all the way around. I see no problem with the drum or shoes. Replacing the cans all around, I'll know more then. Other front tire they claim is scalloped, though I can't feel it. Everything is tight in the steering & king pins. It's a 32000 mile truck. Any theories?
You need a different inspection station? I'd think a alignment would be a good place to start for the scallop. I find that a truck that has been sitting will get a rust spot where drum is exposed, and then you have to wear that off before it will spin freely. I suspect that's whats going on with your front wheel. A bare truck with no bed on it, and the spring suspension (?) is going to hop with no load on it. Its like bobtailing. Especially if its been sitting, those tires are going to be flat spotted, and its going to take a run to even them out.
Being as old fire truck will also have hard spots on drums from severe stops, run hard stop as fast in fire service. Never heard a inspection failure on does not roll freely or a scallop appearance on a tire. So long as not rough or actually hanging up and should the scallop not be down to wear bars should not even be a factor.
Because of the volume of tires we go through reading this thread is interesting. We use the liquid bagged Tire Life in the steer, drop axle and drive tires. The boss bought balance rings for some of the tractors {which are worthless}. In most cases odd tire wear can be attributed to bad casings to begin with. Steer tires should never be inflated standing vertical once mounted, always laying flat. Runout on new steers can be gross on some brands. The cheaper brands like Toyo can be a real problem, tires with a wide shoulder have a tendency of scalloping. Tread that is tall {high profile} can cause scalloping, especially on tag tires. Truthfully the best tires for steer are the Michelin X Line Energy, we average about 115,000 on those, good casings to begin with. We average 165,000 miles on Double Coin RLB 400 drive tires, Trailer tires we run are the Yokohama RY023's those work well on a three axle trailer. We buy 30 steers 60 drives 60 trailer and 20 tags at a time to get the discount plus price is tire mounted on rim. One other thing if the bead area on the rim is worn out {especially} on aluminum wheels the tires will never center and mount correctly.
Wheels & tires in rear are new. Front drums I changed out brake actuators & removed drums to inspect. The drums look perfect, as do shoes & internal brake parts. I think either dust, or slack adjusters too tight. New cans & adjustment, I get only a very soft sound at one spot rotating the tire. Other side he claims is scalloped, I see & feel NO evidence of scallop. Drive shaft is partly new. I had similar behavior in my 1956 Power Wagon when I bought it. Driveshaft universals were 90 degrees opposed. That is not the case in this truck, but I wonder if balance in the driveshaft could cause it? I try to analize when it hops, it starts when I accelerate, or head down a steep hill. I haven't done a thorough check of run out in tires, maybe that should be next.
Drum could have shelf/storage warp where just needs used to smooth up. I agree with CO, need to find a different inspector. Verify drive line is In 'Time' Some knotheads will just assemble a spline section not paying attention, those generally vibrate to hell and gone not hop though.
Front tires look new. The truck is 30 years old with 32000, no way these are original tires. I can't find a date code. I think I can recognize scallop, and I absolutely do not see or feel scallop. What little wear there is, is uniform. I've seen flat spotted trailer tires, It occurs to me an overenthusiastic volunteer fireman might have made a flat spot on a tire. I'll replace wheels & tires if that is the problem, but I hate to throw money at it just to find out. The brake drum thing, wheels center on the conical face of the nut. The brake drums seem only to be sandwiched between hub & wheel. What keeps them centered?
The hub should have a pilot for drum.
ditto
If all your brake drums and such check out, then I would check the run out on the drive tire assemblies. If you can jack the back end off the ground, and put the truck in gear and let the tires spin with the engine idling, you should be able to see what is going on if it is the tires. I have checked run out on all sorts of tires with a block of wood or two and bucket if needed. You want to check both lateral run-out (side to side movement) and radial run-out (up and down movement). To check lateral run-out, I put a block or two of wood beside the tire right beside the sidewall. Set it about a half inch or so. If you don't want to run the engine, you can roll the duals by hand and watch the distance change between the wood and the sidewall. It is important to have a block of wood or something stationary close the tire while it spins to give you perspective of how much it is moving side to side. Radial run-out, just put a block behind the tire and move it to about 1/2 inch or so of the tread and spin the tires around and check for movement. Its possible you have a bent wheel or something like that, since you said you had the issue with the old tires. They make run out gauges if you really want to dial in exactly how much run out you have, but normally I am not that concerned with exact numbers as I am about comparing one side to the other. Good Luck.
I haven't checked the rears for run out, but the problem was there before new wheels & tires were installed. The old tires were chewed some by running tire chains on the outboard tires. It's a long story, but I ended with new wheels & tires on rear. Still could be, but it is consistent after new springs, wheels & tires on rear.
I didn't realize you put new wheels on it. Then it more than likely isn't a tire/wheel issue, unless they are Dayton/cast spoke wheels, then they could be cattywompussed (that's a technical term) on the spokes. Could you have someone follow behind you going down the road and see if they can see anything that looks suspect? It almost has to be rotational, so it could be a driveshaft, dragging brake drum, tire/wheel assembly. Could you have a carrier bearing seizing up? If the steering wheel is not shaking, then I would jack up the entire rear axle off the ground very solid, and put it in gear and get the tires spinning and see if you can identify what is going on. Obviously, both sides should spin.
Truck Shop mentioned he likes the Michelin X Line Energy steer tires. That’s been my experience, too. Michelin is currently the only steer tire in 11r22.5 that I can find that is actually round. Been lots of good info shared in this discussion. That’s why I like this place.
Bridgestone, Firestone, even some what would be considered 'Better' brands of imports HD Truck Tires come from the molds with square corners. Have seen quite a few horrible New tires that being a Name Brand were absolute crap to drive on. Had several recall Bridgestone years ago for improper Tubeless Bead Dimension, seems on air up would expand and unseat themselves, explosively. That was ugly. Have dismounted 'Square Tires' and rotated on the wheel to see if would straighten up some on a remount, at times helped.