My engine fan will rotate normally when the engine is running but the clutch will not disengage and allow it to spin at full speed. I pulled the fuse for the fan drive and by default it came on to full speed. I know the clutch is ok. Where is the temp sensor that is supposed to kick this thing on automatically?
On my 98 Western Star with the same engine, the sensor is on the driver side at the rear of the engine right above the oil pan. When replacing some fuel hose in the area, I disconnected it and then forgot to re-connect afterward and my fan ran all the time. You will find a plug that connects right to the block. Make sure nothing is shorted out there or in the harness that connects to it. I haven't found a manual yet so I don't know what resistance turns on the fan. Good luck.
should be set to come on atuomatically, is your temp guage workign w/o that it wont knwo when to kick on
There should also be a sensor switch in the AC system which will turn the fan on when the freon pressure builds up to high, ie. while running AC and vehicle not moving. This switch is usually wired in parallel to the engine temp sensor, for the fan.
Finally got the truck back yesterday. They didnt do a thing. Said everything was normal. Said that the fan was not to come on until 210*, I could have sworn that I had it up to 215* without it coming on. Maybe there is a discrepency with the gauge. Oh well, I have 2 days of work I have to make up.
My fan comes on at 190 and my truck has never gone over 190 no matter what I am doing or how hot it is. I don't know what is normal for a series 60 detroit and I am having a hard time finding a manual for it. I also don't know how accurate my temp guage is.
I had a '93 11.1L Series 60 that came on at exactly 200degrees. I had a '00 12.7L series 60 that came on at 210degrees. This one had a fan switch, which I'd kick on if I notice it above 200degrees.
I was running my truck in Texas for a month. It was 100* everyday and I had the A/C running every second of the day and it never got over 190. Now that I got it home, it will run up to 210 idling and it is only 80* outside. I didnt run today, but I am scheduled for tomorrow. If it starts to get hot, I am going to stop by and pick up the mechanic that looked at my truck so he can see exactly what I am talking about. I asked the mechanic if it could be a faulty thermostat, he said "no way" Atleast as a fail safe, I can pull the fuse for the fan and it will come on and stay on.:Banghead
I don't know if all series 60 are the same, but mine had two thermostats right next to each other. If one stuck closed the other would still allow water to pass. They usually stick open when they go bad. Alot more often than closed atleast.
Are you back in Colorado working it? Could it be something to do with the elevation change???
I was thinking elevation might have something to do with it. I am just not sure how though. My problem didnt start until I started up Raton Pass. The elevation here in town is about 7,200 ft. What would elevation affect?
I'm not really sure it just seemed like simple solution???
:beatsme :beatsme :beatsme :beatsme :beatsme :beatsme :beatsme :beatsme Truck ran perfect today!!! Never got over 195. Maybe the elevation was affecting me!!:drinkup
That would be a good thing,:thumbsup where did you get that truck, and how do you like the air suspension??
I bought the truck at McCandless International here in Colorado Springs. The suspension rides great but next year, I might look at getting heavier bags for it. It has a little too much roll in the corners for me. The main reason that I went for airbags was that 90% of my driving is on paved or maintained roads. Not much off-roading to speak of. The truck is an old Wal-Mart day cab. When I was looking at it, I got ahold of the maintenance records. I was going to print them but it was over 20 pages! Everything was documented from the day it was delivered until the day it was sold. They made a record of everything that the truck came into the shop for. Even something as simple as a burnt bulb in the dash. The thing that impressed me the most was there are no rattles in the cab. I have driven many big trucks and I am very happy with International. They may not be the flashiest, but they hold up nice. Lets hope this fan thing was just a fluke. This truck costs too much to be sitting!
It's a very nice truck!
F.Y.I.: Not that this is your particular problem, but I went to Atlanta, Ga. this week from upstate NY with an overweight, permitted load that I was grossing 100K with. It was in the 90's to low triple digits from Sunday afternoon when I left home, until Tuesday morning when I unloaded the machine 120 miles south of Atlanta. I run an '06 379 Pete with a 3406E 600, and these twin turbo engines run down the road at 210 degrees all the time, which being from the "old school", really toys with my emotions. I couldn't keep it cool while loaded. I'd run with the fan on constantly, and every grade it'd run up over 220, until I got nervous and would do something to try and cool it back down again. It didn't seem to cool down quick enough for my liking, even after dropping off a grade, and I was thinking that with the fan on manually, it must be an air flow problem. I stopped in at Peterbilt of Greenville, S.C. actually in Piedmont, (Hey, Wrenchbender, wassssup?,) on my way north, and had them test the water pressure to ensure that the thermostats were working. Then I asked them to pull the a/c condensor and air-to-air off the radiator to see what it looked like. Voila! Plugged almost solid with dirt, dust, bugs, etc. I even spent an hour or so previously that week before trying to blow it out with air and the pressure washer, but there's no substitute for taking the time out to remove the a/c and air 2 air radiator, and blow and wash it all out sterile. 3 hours and 300 bucks later, and I was on my way. Ran up I-77 to Wythville, Va. loaded up through the mountains, all the way up through to Staten Island, NY today to unload, and never once went over 210 again. Moral to the story: We all work in somewhat severe conditions in construction related businesses. It's probably a good practice every year in the spring before the big workloads start, to do what I just did. Your engine will thank you for it. Just imagine the dirt and stuff that gets sucked into all these loaders and excavators radiators, and hydro. oil coolers that are working hard every day in these gravel pits and on dusty sites... Geez, I cleaned the filter in my interior airbox for the air conditioning system last week and it looked like it had another layer of foam attached to the filter fabric, but was just dirt that gets trapped in it. Pretty amazing what gets into and through these filtration systems...
Hey LowBoy, wassssup......:drinkup
Nuthin, CB...WAZZZZZZZUUUUUUUP!!!!!!!! Did I pass by your homestead this week without saying "HEY"? I appologize, so here's a belated, "HEY"...:drinkup I was down in Talbotton, Ga. Tuesday, went to Junction City Mining Co. Brought them a brand new Atlas Copco ROC L-8 drill rig for that big quarry down there. That's rock territory right there now, ain't it? Martin-Marrietta stone quarry right down past them, too, I noticed. Fella there told me 100% of their stone gets railed and trucked down to Florida, because Fla.'s environmental regs. are getting impossible for the mining industries to deal with due to ground water issues and drilling/blasting. There was a steady stream of frameless dump trailers running into and out of that area, up and down US 19 and all the back roads. I enjoyed this week, haven't been in Georgia for 15 yrs. or more. Don't really miss the Hot'Lanta traffic or Kamakazi drivers on 85 though...:Banghead
On the question about altitude and it's effects on engine cooling. Flat land engines were set for low altitude. Take them into the high country and you have the same amount of fuel, but not as much air. result is over-fueling and over-heating. That's why older engines used to have to be reset for altitude. Cat's used to be set for 0-5000 feet. Then it was 0-10000 feet. Now, the new computer controlled engines do not need to be adjusted by a dealer. The on-board computer does it all. I am of the very old school. Engine oil temperatures running steadily at 210 or more would scare me. I know that the newer engines run hotter because of the emissions settings and controls, still, an engine running that hot probably better be on synthetic oil. Anytime you have a double core radiator, or a aftercooler or an AC condensor bolted in front, you should plan on removing the extra units at least twice a year to clean out the bugs, candy wrappers and other debris. Any airflow restriction means more heat can not be removed from the system.
Did you go through Macon or around it? I'm about 9 miles from Macon. :drinkup
I wasn't far off...went up US 19 from Butler to Griffin, then jumped onto I-75 to I-85 north, and went up to Commerce, Ga. to look at a truck supposedly we were to buy on eBay. Unfortunately, the sellers didn't include the fact that it was a total piece of JUNK in the description, they just said it "needed fan belts"... Truth was, it needed someone else to buy it...not US. They didn't even bother to clean the old shredded material out of the pulleys, and it looked like a pinwheel when I fired it up. Next time I get that close to Macon, I'll HOLLA.....:beerchug
I can't agree more. Disipating heat as quickly as possible is a HUGE issue with these newer emissions engines. I will say, however, that this engine I'm running is TOUGH. Between running at these elevated temps. and getting it warm enough to actually derate and come close to shutting down several times, it still hasn't developed any coolant consumption issues, such as a cracked head, or liner or gasket yet. Every time it would get warm, over 220, I'd slip it into neutral, I didn't care if I was doing 70 mph, and run the rpm's up and try and get the fan to cool it down without a load on the engine. However, with the restriciton I had, it wasn't cooling fast enough as I mentioned earlier. I recently was pulling a long grade, (heavy,) in Pennsylvania, when the high temp. chime and light came on suddenly.It was dangerously hot, at around 230 and climbing. I jumped on the manual fan switch, and knocked it out of gear even though I was in a full blown pull uphill, to try and get it corrected. It wasn't getting any cooler, as a matter of fact, it was rising and making me nervous now. I'm listening closely, and really don't hear the fan working at the moment. Once I crested the hill, I pulled over and flipped the hood up, and then the obvious was present. The serpentine belt flew off and completely disappeared! No belty,no cooly. That explained a lot then. I had to call our local Peterbilt store back home and give them the VIN so they could match a belt up for me, because I had no belt to get a good number. Called a dad & son truck gagarge down the road, and they ran one to me. I was thinking after that episode that I was going to see some repercussion from that overheating session in the form of using antifreeze, but knock on hardwood,(my head works,) it doesn't use a drop of coolant. I had a 3406 B years ago that if it went over 225 degrees, I'd be betting on either a headgasket or worse, because they used to use that lousy stinking aluminum spacer plate between the deck and the heads back then in around 1986. So, if i should be as bold to say so...that's the difference between a TRUCK driver, and a truckdriver...knowhatImean?
I ran again all day yesterday and nothing was out of the ordinary. It would get to 210 and the fan would kick on. I tried running hard when I was loaded and never got it over 210. In the afternoon, I was running the a/c and the motor never got over 200. I dont care what happened, but it works now.