Hello I have a engine that brings up code 190-8 since it was rebuilt I put a new senser on and that didn't help attached are some graphes that might be helpful It's on a cat TL1055 telehandler S\N TBM00416 Engine number is 292-5307 Might it be a grounding issue?
See if the attached gets you anywhere. You may also need an electrical schematic.
Have you tried to pull the sensor out and pass a metal object in front of it while watching the graph? If the sensor works well you could check to see if the sensor is too far away from the crankshaft gear and is not getting good detection of the gear.
Finally working on this project again and found this out 1 tooth what is the process to time the middle idler to the crank shaft?
Here's the R&I for the Front Gear Gp. That should get you where you need to be. You're going to need a couple of timing pins.
Thanks do u also have the Doc "Finding Top Center Position for No. 1 Piston".
I should have thought about that.......... Also found a procedure for timing the Front Gear Gp rather than R&I.
Thanks is cyl 1 at the flywheel or fan end?
#1 cylinder on a Cat engine is always opposite end to flywheel - AFAIK. Certainly the case on this engine. Extract from service manual below.
Would you also have the file, Disassembly and Assembly, "Fuel Injection Pump Gear - Install"
Sorry about the formatting but it was the best I could do on a phone. I think you might struggle because the procedure calls for the pump to be locked and I assume yours isn’t…..
I don't have the tool to lock no, can make out what this picture is show it looks like it might be another way of checking the timing in fuel pump.
I still havent been able to figure this one out it has to be either ecm, harness, sensor or engine its self Are you sure nige that you posted the correct speed timing test my primary and secondary sensor are the same (2wire) and different locations then the diagrams any heres where im at replaced the sensor got the injection pump locking tool and varified timing took oil pan off and inspected the teeth that go past the sensor voltage at speed sensor plug is 7.9 v dc is this correct? is there any device it could use the check the signal coming from the sensor? there was no volt dc or ac or Hz when i checked sensor should i maybe back probe at sensor with plug plugged in?
All tests of sensors, etc, are backprobed with all connectors plugged in unless stated otherwise in the test procedure. Your question regarding 2-wire vs 3-wire sensors got me thinking so I looked somewhere else. You posted a 292-5307 number for the engine. That's the arrangement number, what is the Serial Number.? If I'm right I think it should be something like 444, 446, or 448xxxxx. EDIT: I found this speed/timing sensor test that shows both primary and secondary sensors as being 2-wire.
To test the sensor, you can back probe the plug using a sharpened paper clip and a volt meter and then pass a metal object ( a screw driver) in front of the sensor and see if the voltage goes up and down on your volt meter, this would prove your sensor is good. Is your spacing between your sensor and the gear correct?
Or you could use a pukka set of backprobe spoons that TBH any half-decent tech should have in the case with his DMM.
what should this be and how much tolerance does it have? this would make the most sense if 1 of the teeth would be just borderline close enough.
I'm not sure the specifics for your vehicle, but I can ask a few questions to try to help you. On the sensor is there an adjusting screw that will allow the sensor to get closer and further from the tooth of the gear? Is this an aftermarket sensor (possibly made with too much distance between the sensor and the gear tooth or just a weaker magnet that can pick up the signal)? You can also test the distance of how far your sensor can read by doing the back probe test and have a ruler on the table and see how far you can get before your sensor stops reading the metal object in front of it.
Hello everyone. I am wondering if anyone can shed some light on this topic so we can get a end result. So motor has been taken apart a few times now to try to diagnose. 1st. Sensor throws error code for crank position sensor and unit is in derate. When disconnecting sensor unit will run and throw code. When sensor is installed. It is picking up a signal. I have 8 volts key on engine running with sensor back probed. When watching primary and secondary second it jumps and looses signal. When installing sensor with it backed off with 1 oring. It will pick up a signal and it causes engine to blow black/grey smoke. And shut down engine and cause a crank no start. When running unit it blows a good amount of grey smoke smells like advanced timing. Would you invest the time into retiming it for a 3rd time. New sensor. Checked all wiring. It's been down for 3 months. And customer wants it running he gave me this thread to view what he has done. I belive from the smoke to the advanced timing smell plus smoke. It's bad timing. And when the sensor.is hooked up it states basically bad timing done run. Any advice.
I re read the whole thread this morning and I saw something I didnt see earlier in post number four; is the injector pump gear off a tooth? Is the front cover off and can you put the engine in TDC and post a pic straight on so we can see all of the timing marks?
Hi got the engine totally rebuilt again and there no blow by anymore but still starts only sometimes and haven't really been able to figure out when it does and does not I just noticed sometimes when starting injection disabled was "on" can anyone help me out why that would be?
On larger engines the default setting for the fuel injection system is always disabled when the engine is stopped. Only when the engine is cranking and conditions (such as injection system pressure) are correct does the injection system status change from disabled to enabled and all things being equal at that point the engine should fire up.
Engine speed primary 240 rpm Engine speed secondary 241 rpm Engine primary sensor- detected Engine secondary sensor- detected Engine speed sensor is primary Rail pressure is 5600 Battery voltage 13.0 volts Injection status disabled is off even when cranking unless unplugged a speed sensor Still no fire. Checked all inputs and outputs from ecu went threw this whole machine for 8 hrs. 8 volts to all sensors and inputs will get picked up sensors detected tone rings good. has anyone timed a 4.4 acert and mess it up? Blows black smoke on rev up
Do you have a parameter for "Desired Rail Pressure".?
Desired was 3625 if not mistaken
Are you able to let me know what causes injection disabled on. Why if both sensors detected and all parameters are met won't it fire. Won't ecm set timing if it's off?
On a common rai lengine it is usually when Actual Injection Actuation Pressure does NOT reach Desired IAP. That's why I asked if you had DIAP as a separate parameter. There may also be other parameters such as a lack of engine speed sensor signal. Get both parameters on the screen and crank the engine. See what results you get.
So at this point. I went threw retimed the engine. Still says injection disabled. My question how important is it to set back lash. And when they say set back last does this mean loosen off the injection pump and time it back and forth. I have a new pigtail on order for the new style cat sensor as I don't know if spacing with throw off the no start. Customer said it ran fine with no injection disabled a year ago and it slowly got worse after the first rebuild. Is there someone else that could be missing. Also now that it's timed as per the manual it will barley even attempt to start. Unless a decent crank cycle
Another question is, the manual says it should run on either speed sensor but we can only get it to start on the secondary speed sensor, if we plug the primary sensor in it will shut down immediately and if we try to start it on the primary speed center it just says configuration pending on the primary speed sensor timing status any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks.
Anyone else thinking an ECM on the fritz.?
I am trying to understand what you mean when you say it won’t start but then you say it does start with the primary speed sensor unplugged. How well does it run with the primary unplugged ? How long does it crank to start with primary unplugged?
It won't start if we plug primary or both sensor but if just secondary sensor it starts but not easily