My 75xt recently gelled, or so I think. I removed the fuel filters, re-primed the system, but it still wouldn't start. I went to drain the filter, and push more fuel through with the primer pump, but now can't get the primer pump to build any pressure. An old timer standing next to me says I should just get it started on ether and it should sort itself out. I am worried about it being hard on parts as I understand it to be with most newer equipment. I darn sure wouldn't put it in my 6.0 Ford. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thanks Isaac
Starting on ether and letting things sort themselves out........ Maybe sometimes but this isn't one of them. You drained the filter and can't prime it, thinking it's gelled. You'd have to run it a minute on ether to get it to run on it's own if gelling was the problem. Better tarp it and warm it up, or wait till this afternoon or the middle of this week, and get it primed before you try to start it. Unless you stole your fuel from Nige down in the Caribbean, it should start and run with a little preheat all winter. You read a lot online about fuel gelling, wax plugging filters etc. but most often if the engine won't start it's just needs a little extra boost to get going. Sorry, I can't say if ether is fine in that motor or not. Did this thing start up in the morning and then die after working for a short while, or not start on a cold morning after running normally the last time it was used? And did you get white smoke/mist out of the exhaust when it was cranking and not starting?
Isnt the diesel 911 supposed to help out with this kind of thing? I bought a bottle but have never had to use it yet.
Remember that the primer pump will only work if the camshaft is in the proper location, lobe on the low part of its travel in relation to the fuel pump internal lever. Turn the engine a bit to get the cam lobe a different spot then try handpumping, when the pump lever feels firm you have it right. Once the filters are bled you may have to loosen the injector lines at the injectors and turn over till the fuel spurts from the lines then tighten and start. The CDC engines are not real fond of ether and you shouldn't need it.
To update: several days have gone by without being able to work on it. I finally got the chance late in a day were the temps had been above 32 for most of the day. I tried the key, and she fired right up. Thanks for all the tips. I will definitely be keeping white bottle power service in the fuel going forward.
A couple years back my Chevy Duramax gelled. I limped to a fuel station put in half a tank of fuel and a bunch of 911. Barely managed to make it 150 miles home. (Truck had no power and if I pushed it at all it would basically die and I would drop down to 20 mph) Once home I parked it in the garage and the next day the weather started to warm up. Truck ran fine. A few days later it dropped back to -25 (MN for you). Truck wouldn't run (gelled). I put a new filter on (same fuel) and didn't have another problem.
Fuel filters absorb water as well as seperate so if water gets in the system the fuel filter can go south quick. With any fuel related problem on a diesel the filters should be changed. Water contamination acts just like gelling/waxing.
Ether itself is not the best for continuous use starting engines (many engines use it regardless to get started), that is why many starting fluids do not contain it anymore. Most skid steers and other small diesels have either glow plugs, intake heater or a combination of both. Starting fluid should never be used on these engines unless the pre heat systems are disabled as they can cause some violent explosions. Anytime you have a fuel related issue start with a new filter, so many people get thinking 100 different directions and forget the cheap simple starting point. If its gelled you can try running some 911 in the system but do not get carried away with it, some people seem to think the engine should run on straight 911.