I bought an Euclid S-7 scraper this week and just got it home, been changing oils and servicing it to get it ready to try out, first off to figure out whats all wrong with it and needs repair and second I need to get some work done with it. Anyone know what type and weight of oil goes in the automatic tranny, I'm not sure I think its an allison auto, also where would some numbers of the make of tranny be located, we can't find anything on it anywhere to even call a tranny shop to ask questions about it. Next question is, anyone have ideas as to how to get the steering cylinders off so I can rebuild them, the seals are leaking and the pins are rusted in tight, we tried to give it some heat but didn't want to get too aggressive with them for fear of breaking some castings, the only thing we've figured out is to strip the fuel tank off and wash it good to get all the excess oil off and drill and torch the old pins out and make new one's to replace them, any other ideas would be appreciated. We also thought maybe if we just kept adding oil and actually used the machine and added penetrating oil to the steering pins maybe the use would help to jar and loosen them up, maybe not, we're out of ideas as of now that involve anything simple. The machine has been sitting for a few years, and has only been run some over the past decade, everything seems to work ok, but we haven't given it much of a test as of yet by using it though. Any ideas as to where to get manuals for the machine, like parts, service and even an operators manual? Thanks for any help anyone can give me.
R88 , The trans is most likely to be a allison CLT3341 , being a 4 speed foward - 2 reverse the tag should be on the gearshift side of the trans just slightly towards the rear the 4-71 jimmy motor use a straight 40 low ash oil diff , planetrys and PTO (or hyd pump drive) i use 90 grade oil , trans i use 20/40 engine oil.( some prefer to use a thinner oil ) colder climate would be better with thinner oil the steering rams , well it`s your call - it`s only v packing , undo the ajuster bolts/nuts, move ram to blow packing out , cut new v-packing to get over shaft and stager cuts when fitting -if you can only get the barrel pin out you should be able to disasemble it on the machine - undo the bolts on the plate, knock the next piece inwards to get at the circlip , slid barrel off , undo nut on shaft replace with uncut v-packing , wiper seal and o-ring
on another note , if you are going to change the oil in the trans there is a very fine suction screen , (some models have a paper element )inside the trans sump , clean the screen or replace the paper element. it is a round cover that is held in by strap across it , on your model i think will be just under the id tag facing the output tailshaft
greeniron, thanks for the information, I"ve never owned let along run a motor scraper before, I know nothing about them or how they are supposed to work, let alone perform, we got it home and dumped the tranny oil, locally everyone thought it was either a dextron transmission fluid or straight weight 30 engine oil that went in, nobody was for sure, so we put in dextron if for no other reason, to help clean it out and am planning on flushing it again, I have virtually no history of any kind behind the maintenance of this machine, we ran it some yesterday and plan to do again today between the rains we are finally getting this year. My next question is how is the tranny supposed to work, it may sound stupid to ask, but I don't know, is it supposed to be shifted manually or does it downshift by itself as you work the machine, or is it supposed to kill the engine if you don't downshift it manually? I only know of one guy to ever own one of these but his was a stick shift and he couldn't help answer my question. We ran it and when roading it to and from the job, when climbing hills empty in third it downshfted by itself and then when it got back on the level upshifted again, is this normal or is there something wrong with the tranny? Also it didn't shift into 4th gear at all, I didn't take the time to figure out if there's something in the linkage or not, someone has in the past, rewelded the gear shift level back on and it hits the dash, I think the angle is slightly wrong or maybe its out of adjustement? We found the filter on the tranny, but couldn't get it out because it hit the driveshaft and we didn't take the time to remove the driveshaft to replace the filter, it was a screen type and looked pretty clean. so for the time being we just put it back in again and filled the transmission up and went to try it out, this winter we plan to do it right and change everything. Also what engine rpm's should you be at to make it steer properly, the guy we bought it from told me to wind it out and keep it there so it steers like it should, is this normal or is there a pump problem, also any idea what pressures the pumps should put out and at what engine speeds they are tested at?
dextron is/was the recommened oil for the allision trany`s but i think they revised that for heavy and extrem temp work The trans is a manual shift seconde , third and fourth will seem as though it is changing gears itself at a certain speed and engine revs but it is only the torque converter locking up thus becoming direct drive what pumps have you got on her , the piggy back hydreco or the dual commercial, not that it matters, they are both gear pumps i thought the euclid steering was always a wait awhile system but it doesn`t help with a sad pump there is a inline hyd filter after the steering pump in a big ass heavy cylinder with a screw in lid don`t quote me but it is either under the platfourm or near the seat ???? can`t help you with pump pressures
Greeniron, would the hydraulic filter be located in metal canister, thats really heavy metal, maybe an inch thich, that lays on its side with a bolt on cover, right behind the seat beside the steering vavles, its the only place where we could figure out it could possilby be, we'll change out the tranny oil now that we've run it some and put in straight weight 30 engine oil if that will work, next question, where would a check plug be located for the gear case on the end of the engine the pumps are hooked to, we gave up trying to figure it out, or is one of the bolts supposed to be taken out to check the level somehow and if so, what bolt or how high is the oil level supposed to be in the gear case, about level with the pump drives, slightly higher?? Thanks for the help
R88 , That canister sounds like the one , 1" thick and flaming heavy but i`m guessing that you mean beside the hyd valves the pto box from memory is lying horizontal should have a **** valve or plug in the R/H side facing the tyre (or approx halve fill) if in the event that you over fill it it will find it`s own level by spitting excess out the breather probly will have a curly bit of copper pipe for the breather on top
Thanks greeniron for the information, we'll give the whole machine a good bath, so we can see better as what we're looking for.
Has anyone done anything the the transmission on one of these, over winter its leaked all the oil out of the transmission, seems to be coming from the driveshaft, not the cover over the filter housing, it leaks sometimes other times not, we had to move it in the shed over winter, and for some reason the first few months, nothing leaked, but after moving it about three feet, it then leaked. I've never taken an automatic transmission apart before for any reason, done every other kind for one reason or another. Do I try to just install a seal, or should I be looking farther into it, last fall when we were using it, it did the same thing, sometimes it leaked, other times not. Any insight would be appreciated.
Randy88 , if the trans was performing and the oil pressures were good don`t waste your money by pulling trans and doing a complet rebearing and reseal unless your mattress is getting lumpy from some spare/hidden cash if it were mine i would just replace the output seal and inspect the dropbox some of them off the shelf seals fail by going hard so replace it with a good quality viton seal , viton is dear but good since you have the output shaft off and no oil , pull the dropbox cover off and have a look at the middle gear bearings , these bearings are the most likely to fail - some boxes have different bearings - ball , roller or taper
What pressure should it be at and where do I check those at, none of the gauges work on the dash, that and I can't even read them to know what they were supposed to be for.