Holy cow, I thought was a turbo housing at first glance. I guess it got about the same amount of grease as the exhaust pipe did. Greyson
twr, Are you really going to tell the customer that needs welding and lineboring? I'd just put a dab of Loc-tite on the bushings and press them in good to go for another 10,000 hours! You better be nice or I'll find out where this guy lives and show him what this thing does:
Not a chance its in a sand plant you gota love it.
Yep pretty much.
Been there... it's almost better not to grease some things, the grease traps the sand and it turns into the best lapping compound nature can make, lol.
I can maybe understand that, but why run till they are that far gone? No idea of how hard it is to remove pins on this application, but one could pull the pins and press in new bushings before the wear got to the meat it would seem to save a bit of down time. Or maybe if this machine is going to be around for a long time in this nasty environment, look into boring over size and make thicker bushings. Those look kind of thin. At least that could give a bit more time till it did get into the meat of the ram. But then I don't know the actual application and don't want to put twr out of work!
Just a bit of hand welding. Love it!
That's what we did filled it up and bored it out Ray.
Thats what its all about. If people stop doing that we wiill be poorer.
Hi Guys, And Merry Christmas. I'm new but very interested in what you guys done. I have a Case 9350 4wheel drive tractor which the steering is wearing out. please look at my pic and tell me what my plan of attack should be. Not much room on top and bottom to hook up a drill. Looks like someone has already machined and put a sleeve in.
Give us an idea of scale and context. How big is the bore? Is the component which the anchor is part of removable? If so and it's not too big then taking it to a machine shop and setting it up on a mill would be viable. Another option would be to fabricate a new anchor, cut off the old one and weld on the new one.
Going on the lube fitting there is meant to be some sort of bearing in there? Is it a self aligning bearing? If its to hard to machine it in situ and tge alignment is not super ctritical I would be looking at cutting it off and properly welding a new one on.
Thanks Cmark. the insert bearing is 2.5" od. and 1.5" id. from the floor its 24" and above is less than that. trying to send more pics
hope this works
I thought of cutting off and replacing but not sure of strength. Also the clevis' are wore (lot of play) I thought taking them off and boring larger and putting a bushing in. As you can see it is one big piece. Priced it out at case, it was $2500.00 .
Drive it over oil change pit and install bore setup from bottom and bore/weld.
I see it has a spherical bearing so it needs a nice accurare bore and also has a circlip groove at the top and a step at the bottom. Easy job in a mill. Not so easy with a portable machine. But what would I know.
Yes I thought of that. Have to find a truck shop with high doors
Thanks Rayf. I think you guys know quite a bite. The prior own must of torched or bored and sleeved it. Was wondering if I try to torch out the welds and punch it out to see if I can get a clean measurement and replace the sleeve. My cousin owns a tool and die shop and can whip one up pretty quick.
In some parts of the world they would get a hoe, dig a hole in ground and repair it. That is the warm parts of the world.
Well by reading the news your part of the country is pretty soaked. Up here in southern Canada it has been unseasonably warm. I was wondering if the Q 150 boring kit and drill will work in 24"
I'm SW of Corpus Christi and that front blew by about 15 min ago and only got a sprinkle. Yes think it would work , have never done a bore job . The Q -150 seems pricey , search weldingweb website they have information on building your own setup.
Since I need to do this I have been looking on line for a local guy but only heavy equipment dealers offer it and think it will cost more. No small guys around here and I thought might get a smaller setup and do some custom work myself. Have tractors and big trucks a cat hoe I could be busy fixing my stuff first.
I would have your cousin fab new ears (the articulations/bearings are normally not much more than a thumb-press fit, you have to have near perfect bores otherwise the outer cage will crack and break-out... and retaining ring grooves that should be cut) and then have a reputable welder type (should be one of those guys runnin' around there?) weld them on if you don't feel comfortable doing it...while you were at it, you could probably remove the cylinders and have your cousin bush the pin holes too! Just looks like a tricky repair to learn to weld-up and bore if you haven't done it before. Regards, Bob
Funny you said that. I was just talking with my cousins foreman who goes to my cHurch what Rayf was saying about cutting off. I think I might go that route. I know how to weld not bad but wil probably get a local guy that's pretty good. The clevis' are wore good so will ore and bush and make my own pins with harden guide pins. Thanks
John Deere is a little different design but pry be just as compact and we have local guy that came and bored it out and made a bushing to weld in it to fix ours on a 9630 JD and he used a drill to run his boring bar.
A couple of relevant points. You don't have a lot of wall thickness there to be putting in a sleeve. Putting a line borer in there is feasible but expensive in that application but to cut in that circlip groove is going to be quite a challenge for most machines and operators in a small diameter like that. The bearing needs a round bore with 2 thou interference on the bearing. I would still be welding on a new lug with a full penetration weld and keeping the job reasonably cool to minimise distortion of the bore. I'm sure the frame will be mild steel so no need for big pre heats.
Rayf, I checked this morning and there is no snap-ring used to hold the bearing in place . Here is a link to case's parts store http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr48669ar1145913 you can see. There is a step at the bottom to hold up the bearing but its pretty much flush on the top. I like the idea of cutting off and replace with new but looking at it more do we have enough space to weld to frame?
Ok,that unusual. I thought the original pic looks like a groove but looking again there is a welded on boss starting to come away? With welding you are the man looking at it and best able to judge that. No snap ring makes it a much easier job to bore in situ.
Try calling CaseIH engineering for help.
You know someone who are legitimate to work in Perth Australia as line borer? im in need now thanks.