hello! my wifes father has a ex100.2 with a toasted pvc. now my friend has fixed the box, and tomorrow im going to try the fixed box. but there is still the problem that burned the box. it has been burning atleast one of the pvc fuses, and im going to check the angle sensor first. i have found the instructions to check a-sensor, but im not sure where i should engage my meter to look that 4,40 volts when i calibrate the a-sensor. when i looket at the instructions, i think i saw there two open wires in the short harness between the main harness and a-sensor harness?
i'm not an expert but i doubt the angle sensor is blowing fuses. more commonly its a wireing harness problem. check your harness especially in areas near the engine check out this thread Hitachi EX120-2 melts fuse F7 08-13-2010 good luck
today we done some testings with this machine. first it was weak and slow. then i changed solenoid harnesses from each to other, and it get weaker. i think when i changed the places of the solenoids, then all fungtions were really fast but the machine died when we tried like press the boom down to lift the front of the machine. then i looked up the a-sensor. first i measured the sensor like the instructions told, 3-4minutes at idle speed with solenoids and angle sensor disconnected, then shut down the engine, power on and meter showed me numbers income 5volts, output something like 0,32v. then i took the sensor out, looked that the punch mark was facing away from sensors harness. i tried to calibrate it, but i could get it only at 1.02v or something like that. then i tried to turn it 180degrees, and i got 4,40v out. started the engine, and it was so weak that it couldnt even lift the boom up the ground. do you guys think that this sensor is broken? or am i just doing something wrong. maybe someone could say his opinion about my investigations and thoughts? if someone is thinking too that the a-sensor is broken, i would dare to order a new part.
are the pump displacement solenoid(s) same as in ex200-2? would these fit to ex100.2? http://www.ebay.de/itm/NEW-High-Spe...Accessories&hash=item4ababd845a#ht_2185wt_952
Did you just switch the wiring from one side of the solenoids to the other or did you actually remove the solenoids and swap them? I would try swapping the solenoids themselves if you haven't already.
yes, i switched first only the wiring, then i swapped the solenoids themselves. and then tried the wiring again in both ways. in every position machine was weak and slow, or abnormally fast and took power so much that engine died. sorry about mine bad language, text can get pretty messy...
Put all the wires back to normal place and tell me what it does ,fast or slow i will try to help.
it went slow. now i think it might be the solenoids, because it went fast when i switched the solenoids themselves. i have nearly 100 kilometers distance to the machine, so i have to really write up everything i find out in this forum. here is really much information, but i have readed it too much in a short time. does anybody know about those ex200.2 solenoids, will they fit into ex100.2? is there any difference? here in finland they cost 580€ each. i think its the same, because some sellers page tells the same solenoid fits Hitachi EX 100 120 200 210 220 300 -2 -3 excavator.
sounds like the solenoid. you could repeat test to make sure. i saw the part on ebay for $115us with free shipping. i think they're the same part, look at picture if it looks the same you're ok. i had a solenoid go bad and while i waited for the replacement part i disassembled the bad one. what i found was a wire screen had disintegrated and pieces of wire were holding the valve open. after i removed the blockage the solenoid worked fine. you can test for a stuck open soleniod by blowing into one port if air or oil comes out the other port its stuck.
i ordered a pair of new ones, i checked from the chinese sellsman that its the same solenoid as 100.2. they costed 58,90euros each. i remember it was 74,90 dollars. im little bit sick so my thoughts wont run like normally, it was pretty clear that the problem is in solenoid. some time ago, i opened one of the solenoids, it looked fine. both of them gives just right ohms when measured, but i think these electrical problems usually would go away better if first call a exorcist tomorrow i will give more attention for the solenoids if i could make her sing again before the new parts arrive. i also ordered a new angle sensor just if it happens to be broken. she hasnt been working properly for a two years now, im having a little hurry before the snow comes down. thanks guys for help, i let you know if there will be more problems :notworthy:drinkup
okay, machine is working now. BUT it has still a little problem that ignores me. when you coldstart the machine, for a 3-4minutes it cant stand two movements at the same time. and the guy thats driving it says that there comes little noise around the pump. but when she gets warm, everything works normally? what could cause that?
Okay, now i have visited myself at the machine. Its not anymore weak at cold engine, but it does this ignoring thing. When you grab on something heavy, the engine allmost dies, but when you keep on it gets normal in three seconds. Like you would take your foot off the gaspedal and push it again to the floor. I measured the a-sensor again, it gave me 3.90v. I idlet it again, and i couldnt get more than 4,20volts out. And the sensors measure is on its top, in its left side. A-sensor is new. And i tried to test the feedback shaft, and i couldnt get it move. Could there be a bad dp-sensor..? Or what? Tomorrow ill have to get a pan of coffee next to me and read this site thru. Its very slow to use the search with foreign language. :-(
does anybody have a clue where to start, what could cause this?
so im trying to figure out how does this hydraulics work on this machine. so the swash plate, is it adjusted only by the oilflow adjusted by the pump swash solenoids? and angle sensor gives the swash plate angle information for the pvc. differential pressure sensor gives information from the main control valve bank, the valve banks pressure so the pvc knows how much pressure is going forward to the system, so it can tell the solenoids how to operate the swash plate? am i correct or lost
Yea you got it, how many volt does it have engine at idle all controls in neutral ? Does the auto idle work on all functions ?
about the part,if you have the part number,i can check it.
i dont know about the volts, because the a-sensor is new. when i chanced the part, i got there out 4,40v at ful swash as it should be idled. then we got the machine to the work plant, and it did this when you crab on the ground with the bulk, the engines rpm gets down a little, and in a second or two it rises again to normal. then i tried again to set the angle sensor, if there was something wrong, but i think it didnt get to full swash at all even the solenoids unplugged. because when it should be at full swash, the a-sensor shows me like 4,20v only when turned all on the other side. and the sensor is new. do you mean by the auto-idle that the engines rpm stays still when digging? on the settings that has been put behind the buttons p, l, m or what ever they were. there might be some problem with the auto-idle too, because it reacts slow when some heavy digging done. might this make some problems with the hydraulics too? next time when i see the machine, i will do these things: 1. check up if the PVC is showing up some codes. 2. take out the a.sensor again, and check again the feedback shaft. 3. if everything okay, ill put it back and check the wireplugs and incoming voltage. 4. do some measuring around the solenoids. they are new too, but the plugs ill check. will you tell me a little about the auto-idle motor? should i be worried about it? is there some settings that should be done? now when i think, there have been some problems with the idle wire, what links the idle motor to diesel pump. that ill check too if there is some loose on the wire, that could cause the slow reaction of the machine. (that would be the first mechanical problem! yippee!)
i think the new parts ive been placed have come from your shop somewere from china. the parts here in finland are just about ten times more expensive than in china. if i remember right, the solenoids were around 58€ from e-bay, and they came from china. in finland, i remember they were 580€+22% tax. it aint cheap. ive been playing with thought about starting own internet shop in finland where would be sold excavator china parts. because it pisses me off when the china part came, and i went to change it, it had even the same stickers as the old 600€ part. could get here some competition between stockists
you con adjust DP-senser but its not in any hitachi books check that a/senser shaft is not stickingthey wear in the yoke in side pump can test put to low pos with full load engine should not change speed ,put to1/2 pos repeat engine speed will slow ,now put pump at full angel/stroke engine will slow /stop. you can repeat with a/senser useing screw dr to turn
im really sorry but this text is really hard to read for me.english is not my first lanquage. what do you mean by the pos? do you mean that i should put the machine to run at high rpm, (i think it was the p button) then push the boom handle a little, and it should not change the rpm. then push the handle at halfway, and the rpm slows. then push the boom with full force to the ground and the engine will stop or slow. if all these happens, does it mean that the feedback shaft is stuck? or the auto-idle motor is dead? i think i should take someone to do this, and at the same time measure the a sensor my self and see if the voltage changes. if not, its stuck.
by pos =position of angle/senser to stroke of pump .=eg this pump at full stroke =large flow of oil as pump destokes ,but as oil pressure increases the pump will destroke put out less oil flow so as not to over load engine and stall you can do this by remove a/senser by hand do you have Hitachi Book,s?
heyyyy, long time no see. heh. hitachi is now working fine, the new a-sensor toasted for some reason, but i got one for for warranty. then i cleaned up the solenoids came from china, there was little metallic particles from factory so it sticked a little, shows as a little breaks at the pump angle idling. now its digging fine. only a little problem, that the drive speed does not change at all from the switch. its not a problem, we can deal with it easily, but what could cause that?
Santikko, be careful of the chinese parts. We bought a lot from there (DP sensors, angle sensors, PVC and solenoids) as these are the things that always seem to fail. So far i suspect that the hot hydraulic oil is causing the DP sensor to blow as this is the main problem almost everytime. The other issue is wire rubbing on the chassis and shorting out. But as far as the chinese parts go, PVC and angle sensors have been ok. But the DP and solenoids are utter rubbish. I stopped selling them because we had almost 90% of them failing within 3 months! But hopefully your ones are ok. If they are good after a few months please do post it here as i would be interested in buying some from the seller you bought from
youll have to wait until next summer, here is 20cm snow and -15degrees, so we leave the digging to the summer. but after cleaning the solenoids startet to work, but we have not been working with it, just little bit messing up at the yard. the seller i bought from was rongcheng.biz or something, from ebay. the warranty was working good when this a-sensor broke. havent had to change the dp-sensor yet, "knocking the wood"... but i´ll tell you when we get it back to work.
I have the same problem as Santikko replaced rpm pump sensor and got back high flow. Now when bucket touches ground motor stalls .so if I understood the text the Robles was is one of the selinoids I also replaced the a sensor and I get4.90 volts but I am checking from a sensor . Have no test jumper so To be sure what wires do I need to be reading I will try and remove selinoids and see if that will solve my problem also my new a- sensor had no punch mark on shaft is there a way to bench test and see what side to put . The shaft .also I put the old sensor back in when new one did not fix problem it has a punch mark.