I recently purchased an Ex100-3. I’ll start from the beginning. Fuel tank and hydro tank have been cleaned out. New fuel pump and filters. New hydro oil and filters as well. My machine when you first start it up will work fine but hydraulics are slow but won’t kill itself if deadheaded. Then if continued to run for a few more minutes it gains all the hydraulic speed and power but it kills itself in every function you use when deadheaded. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Sounds like a fuel issue, unless you suspect a hydraulic problem for some reason. Might be time for some pressure testing, I would start with the fuel pressure. Think we refer to that as falling on its face, lol.
Check over the engine really good. Is the engine smoking black as it’s dying? . You can check for codes using the red light on the PVC behind the seat. See the link to an older thread below. Post #14 shows how to enable the self diagnostic which sets a light flash sequence, (if there are any codes). HeavyEquipmentForums . . The PVC is the bottom controller and EC is the top controller. Ignore the light on the EC. if there are any codes ,the light on the PVC will blink in a pattern of long and or short sequence.
I don’t think it’s a fuel issue I think the hydraulic pump is staying fully stroked but I really don’t know. Soon as I shut machine off then start it right back up it’s back to slow hydraulic movement then again after a few minutes of running it’s back to full hydraulic power and speed where it’s to much and wants to kill the engine again. I’m not sure where to look to find the fault code light. Yes it does a little bit of black smoke as it gets loaded up and wants to die.
I’ll check for codes later today. Also the fuel lines and tank have been cleaned out, new filters and transfer pump and screen.
Fuse #19 is used for options, is there anything like an auxiliary plumbing kit ,a pin grabber coupler installed ? Did you have a chance to check for any service codes ?
It does not have auxiliary kit installed just a manual thumb. Also I can’t find out how to check for service codes. Do I need a diagnostic tool?
Read post #3 .
I see that post now it wouldn’t let me open that page the other day when I went to look at it. Thank you I’ll see what codes I have now.
I think I have code 44?
Codes only go as high as 36. You are reading the blinking light on the bottom controller correct ?
I was looking at the pvc and ec. red Blinking light. Let me look at that then.
You want to look at the red blinking light on the bottom controller only ,the pvc .
Will it keep repeating the codes if key is left on? Just trying to decipher the blinks Thank you
Yes
Is there a way I can post a video of the blinks to make sure I’m reading this code correctly?
Upload the video to utube and then post the utube link here.
Hopefully this link works.
I come up with 4, 22, 26, 29, 30 .
Thank you. I didn’t understand the blink sequence
I would ignore the EC code #4 for now and focus on the (4) PVC codes 22,26,29 and 30. Google to try and find yourself a copy of the EX100-3 trouble shooting manual # T134E-00 . To get you started ,I will send you some code info in the morning. .
Thank you. Those codes explain my issue. Angle sensor I can only get 2.2 signal volts out of it and not 4.4 like the book says. Also I think one of the pump stroke solenoids are bad
The pump needs to be in maximum displacement when checking the angle sensor voltage.
Unplug the pump solenoids and let idle for 5 minutes get get it to stroke up? According to the manual?
Yes
Yes that is what I did and still could only get 2.2volts out of it.
Got my new solenoids and pump angle sensor. Installed everything and re set the angle sensor. And everything worked like it should so I kept running machine to make sure. Ran it for about 20 minutes was working great, then hydraulic flow went slow again. Still has power just everything is slow. So I shut it down then started it back up and now hydraulics are fast again and when dead headed hydraulics it wants to kill the engine.
Did you recheck for any codes ?
Not yet.
I suspect you will need to investigate the wire harnesses.
Will do. Now it won’t start back up.
I found that the stop motor has the injection pump shut off. Unplugged the connector for the stop motor and it’s all corroded and terminals are crusty and one broke off.
I have code 33 and 4 How can I check the bpip sensor?
A new code ?, Code 33 wasn’t active previously . . Per the manual , “ Fault code 33 indicates that the sensing signal (input voltage of the sensor) is higher than 4.75 V, and possible cause may be a short circuit of the harness between the boom raise pilot pressure sensor and PVC “ . If the harness proves ok, the sensor would be defective.
Thank you. I believe so. If I am reading the blinks correctly. I believe I fixed the pump Angle sensor and the pump control solenoids with new parts. Now machine runs and operates as should but after a while of running the hydraulics slow down a lot, then if I shut it off and start it back up it’s back to normal, until it slows down again whenever it decides too. I will post this YouTube link of the blink codes and have you verify if you’d like.
Sounds good.
Like you, I came up with fault code 33 as well. Code 33 won’t be a cause of the intermittent slow hydraulics. Check the connector to the PVC for a solid connection Double check the PVC and EC ground wires for good solid connections,I think the ground wires all bolt to the floor at the operator seat pedestal. Check the “N“ speed harness for an intermittent open ,it wont create a code but will put the pump to minimum angle. Also check the resistance of the N sensor , spec is 810 +/- 240 ohms .
Okay thank you, I’ll do that. what is the N sensor?
See screenshot below.
Regarding fault code 33, I just noticed the manual contradicts itself. On one page it says code 33 possible cause is a disconnected bpip sensor. Another page says re:code 33 possible cause is a shorted bpip wire harness.
Hmm. Is there 4 piolet sensors like the bpip sensor? Behind cab under air filter?
Are you trying to find the bpip sensor ? Go to the link below to the online parts catalog page ,its item #44. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc...ch/pgId/2386040/partnumber/4326876/callout/44 .
Yes I was looking at the wrong one I believe, I was looking at the 2 pin sensors not the 3pin sensor
I was looking at #2 in that diagram you sent. The Pressure switch.
I tested the N sensor and it tested good. How can I test the bpip sensor?(Deere sensor part number #4326876)
One more thing to check on the N sensor , Measure AC voltage at the N sensor terminals. Increase engine speed. Does AC voltage increase as engine speed increases?
I’ll have to double check and see. But i believe it does.
Backprobe the bpip wire harness middle terminal (wire color yellow/ blue) and the outside terminal ( wire colour white) . With the controls in neutral I would expect to see approx. .4 volts dc. When using boom up , I would expect to see approx 4.0- 4.5 volts dc. (no more than 4.75 volts)
What is the stick cylinder relief valve pressure supposed to be set at? I’ve been looking for a testing and adjusting page explaining it but, no luck.
See 3 screenshots below. . .
Thank you sir.
I’m working on getting all the pressures where they need to be. Where is the travel relief valve located? Also the pressure spec for it as well if possible. Thank you.
Travel relief spec is in the first screenshot in post # 51 . Location in screenshot below.
Went to test it out to see if it would mess up again and I found, What would cause my hydraulic oil to get to hot to touch within 15 minutes on run time. (Relief valve sticking?)that was all just tracking the machine and it’s also jerky when tracking.
Back in the day had a Deere 490E (EX120-2,-3) with jerky tracking ,turned out was loose PVC ground wiring connection at the cab floor. Double check PVC for loose connector, PVC wiring for good power/ grounds and fuse connections.
Oh really? Yeah i removed the ground and cleaned it then reinstalled the ground. But May not be the ground you’re talking about.
I believe the PVC/ ECU grounds were 4 black wires in 2 eyelets. They were bolted to the cab floor in the area of the seat pedestal. If you think the jerky tracking would show in a video, post one.
Yes that’s the one I removed and cleaned up.
If you think the jerky tracking would show in a video, post one.
I’m not sure if it would or not I’ll check and see