I can pick up an older ex60 down the road from me for scrap price, $800 ish. He doesn't know if it runs, or any other issues. Obvious issue is that is missing a track and possibly the associated items. I have not even looked it over closely. Is it worth it to bother getting trucked to my place if i can get it to run and the hydraulics work? How would I load it with no track? What should I start with checking it over to make my decision? How much am I looking at for a track or tracks or can they even be purchased? Thanks all !
Good day This attched will take you to an excavatoir inspection form explaining what to look for, you should be able to walk the machine using the arm -boom & slew with one side lame. Kind regards Uffex
lets get some pictures as well.
Thanks all. I will post pics asap. I am going start with the engine,if it’s bad I think I’m going to pass. I assume that I will have to drain all the old diesel and maybe change the Fuel filter and bleed the fuel system.
Here are the pictures I grabbed real quick today. The last SMM sticker is from 2012 so who knows when it ran last. I’m going to try and turn the engine over by hand soon. And go from there. https://imgur.com/a/EyhmZvf
get a serial and look up that final drive. Not much there to work with. Look up a track price. Those are for sure expenses. If it can be made to run, an accomplished operator can load it on a trailer with one track. I'd have my doubts that it could be made to run.
Good day The photos give the impression that this will be a project more than a repair, I would suggest you prepare for the long haul. Providing you stay with it you should be able to make a useful tool. kind regards uffex
Thank you for the replies. I’m ok with the long haul. I’m not too concerned if I’m only paying 800 for it. It looks to me like I’m only missing a track and a final drive? I looked for tracks but I don’t know what I need. Can it use rubber type track? Where do I find serial numbers? Or other important tags?
It's an old gray market machine, could be why it wasn't repaired. My suggestion would be 'RUN FOREST RUN". Bob
It's a grey market but exactly the same as a Deere 70D other than the engine.
I would check into the availability of a used final drive. There were alot of these machines imported into the US and it's the same as a Deere 70D expect for the engine. I have a friend who has 2 of these and they are a pretty nice older machine.
Thanks, any leads on parts places? Any ideas the year?
Yea right but how old is it ,There are a lot of machines newer than this that are not dealer supported. Bob
I’m a machinist and welder and this machine is not for construction work, only home projects. I think if the engine and hydraulic pump are ok and I can locate parts it’s an ok deal for me.
The big ticket item at this point of time is the drive hub. To find one with the same size motor or gear ratios is going to be harder than finding rocking-horse ****. Maybe a later version could fit but you also have to have the bolt pattern and also the same offset for the sprocket. Then both sides need to be done so you'll be looking at $ 3500 or more per side plus new sprockets. How bad is the existing track chain? You're going to need one, might as well get 2 so you can have some confidence that nothing breaks in some barstard place that makes fixing a nightmare. Cost of tracks at a guess upwards of $2500 per side, new sprockets $500 each. So now you're into it for 12 grand.
I have not bought anything for a small machine lately but I would bet you may be a little light if you could find them. Not to wonder why the fuel tank is off, the track frame is bent, and the track adjuster is broken. Bob
Ok , so if the parts are too expensive, what is it worth as a parts machine for me to sell or part out? Running and operating aside from the busted missing track parts? Not running at all?
What parts are bent and broken exactly? The part with the front idler wheel , is supposed to be attached to the adjuster with the spring in the track housing? Do you mean it’s bent where the idler mounts?
It appears that the frame were the idler sits is bent and yes there should be a spring with a through bolt that attachs to the idler.
Where do I find serial numbers?
It looks like the serial is 107-15342 . I found it stamped under the boom. For some reason lots of hydraulic lines are disconnected. The center rotation manifold, the final drive and a couple others. Any guesses as to why? The engine oil looks ok. I didnt have the correct tool to turn it over by hand. Inside the oil fill on the valve cover looks nice and clean. There is coolant in the radiator. There is about a quarter tank of hydraulic oil.
What is the fuel shut off on these machines? Is it an electric solenoid or manual cable or linkage? How do I determine the year of my machine and the exact model?
Good day you may be able to determin the model by the engine, the dash 3 had a Nissan motor.
Pretty sure it is a Nissan Diesel engine. Forgot to snap a picture of it. The engine runs good. I ran it a bit yesterday. I didn’t test any functions.
Should be a Nissan. I thought I could help with the serial number/vintage but my books all stop at EX100, nothing for the EX60. If I remember correctly they started building the EX series in 1988 and by 1992 were building the dash 2 machines so it should be in somewhere between those years.
Thanks! I am planning to cap the lines on the missing parts travel motor and walk it onto a trailer if the engine stays running and the hydraulics work.
I don't think that's a good idea. You could be deadheading hydraulic pressure direct from the pump. It will blow a line if you're lucky. Or split the pump if you're not. Don't ask me how I know!
Thanks I was kind of concerned about that. I’m getting it picked up with a crane loaded on a trailer and drive 1/4 mile to my house.
quarter mile? put it on skids and drag it their or just drag it.
I don’t have anything big enough to drag it and it would destroy the pavement and the dirt road I live on.
Good day I have walked some lame excavators plugging one leg, I do not understand the risks implied maybe we can have some explanation. The line can still get at the relief valve. Kind regards Uffex
If you plug the travel motor lines it may over pressure and burst the line or explode the pump.
The travel lines will only have residual flow while in the neutral position and the relief valve will take care of any pressure issues if the capped side is activated. Should be no problem at all. If you were to cap lines between the pump and the control valve, then you would have issues.
That's what I was thinking. I'd plug the lines and limp it on the trailer.
There some metal debris in the hydraulic tank and the swing box is not showing oil on the dipstick so I’m hesitant to run it and risk damage to the pumps or further contamination.
Got it home.
Good day Well, that should keep you occupied for a while. Good luck
Yes I’m sure it will. I’m not worried about some work for an $800 project. I pulled the track adjuster and the grease zerk was busted off and all the grease was out. I wonder if that is what started the whole problem or they knocked it off to easily take it apart. I found out where it came from originally, a close by ranch. Maybe they still have the pieces laying around.
So , I ran it for a bit today. Only the boom functions work. No swing , no travel either side.
Good day The boom can receive fluid from both pumps. It is strange you are only getting the boom to work no bucket or swing ! I suggest beginning with servo pressure check it out in both high and low revs see attached.Kind regards Uffex
Thanks! it made a clicking noise the shaft moved in and out a touch on the left side. The right side didn’t really do anything. The swing did nothing. All three functions made the rpm drop and pump change sound. Sounded like in a machine when it’s still locked out or something. How many gallons does the entire hydraulic system hold? I put 15 gallons in and it’s still a bit low.
Good day See attached. Kind regards Uffex
Thanks uffex!