I'm about to start on my 21 tonne Samsung SE210-2 and was looking for some advice on the following issues: -Paint codes, not the Samsung but Volvo grey and yellow? -Paint volume, will be using 2 pak Valspar, using gravity fed hvlp spray gun. One paint supplier said I'd need 40l of base coat alone, so another 15-20l of thinners and Hardner and dam that seems like too much, anyone painted a 20 tonne digger? : Boom to Stick pin and bushing, I have side to side movement so need to pull the Pin out and see what condition its in. Any advice re. Bracing/supporting the weight so I can bash the pin out. I have and old pin that I thought may come in handy in this process. Is there a bushing in the stick to pull out? If so then I think this is where I might struggle. Im thinking of shimming it as well. I'm currently stripping the digger down, I'll take photos and post as I go, it's going to be a big job and I'm going to do the 'KDP' fix as it's got the 5.9 cummins 12 valve so pulling the radiator and oil cooler out will be fun! No doubt I'll make a big mess Thanks
There’s a fix for the KDP that doesn’t require removing the front cover etc. Nose around on a diesel pickup site or do some searching and you’ll find the kit to do it. If it needs resealed etc then it might be worth the effort to dig that deep. Good luck!
Good day There are bushing in the arm joint to boom normally we have removed these using a stout oval disc with two flat sides for posting, you can then draw out the old bush. I guess you have a local source for shims, searched our archive found some information may be helpful. Kind regards Uffex
Oh on the paint.... I will be painting the whole thing, H-frame and all. Pads will be the only part of the machine that won't get done. Thanks
For the paint that does seem like a lot but I don't think it is that far off. for example I used about half that doing a Cat D4D dozer. Much smaller than what you are doing. I would use a tinted primer so the basecoat will hide better. Assuming you spray outside even with a HVLP gun you will lose a fair bit of paint to wind and overspray, especially if you are trying to get every last corner. As for paint codes, I did not find anyone that had Volvo codes. Most had scanned parts by the paint shop. I did the same with mine and it worked just fine. My distributor is really good about scanning and adjusting for me.
About roughly 2/3 of machine will need primer, the rest is original paint in decent shape without flaking so will just give it a sand and paint. Unfortunately there are not any rusty Volvo machines around here I can chip a bit of paint off to take in for a sample, I'll just have to grab a handful of sample sheets from the shop and try to match as best I can.
Thanks, I've had a look at the alternative and it looks scarey, I'm going to have to do it properly and take out all the gear in front and get the timing cover off. They could probably do with a good flush and paint anyway.
Finally found some time to start the project. Dropped the boom cylinders directly on to my ute. No major dramas just manhandling them with a crowbar was a little tough. Hardest part was realighning the cylinder eye on the offside of the boom with the pin hole to drive the pin through. Really is a 2-person job. Next job is dropping the hyd oil, someone posted a good procedure to purge the system however i cannot find it. Possibly a year ago and it involved dropping the oil, topping up the new then cracking lines in a certain order until you can visibly see clean oil emerge. I have quite milky oil and believe its from condensation over a long period of time going unchanged. Im hoping someone can remember who posted the advice?
For the oil change and purge try to look here: HeavyEquipmentForums
I read every post in the thread and didnt see it
That was a file posted by Nyge or Funwithfuel or someone else! Let’s see if I can find it for you!
Yeh! Looks like Funwithfuel PMd it to OP, then later pieces of it shared on thread! Ask Funwithfuel if he can PM it to you!
HeavyEquipmentForums
Thanks ,Good reading and it will help but it’s not the one. I’ll keep hunting
Sent you a PM please let me know if I can help
I have followed funwithfuel's procedure, scrubbed the tank squeeky clean, replaced all filters and replaced as many o-rings as i could but one of the drive motors is heavily rusted. All the couplings and bolts are round and can see no way of getting a tool on them let alone getting off without snapping them. Im looking at the large nut on the bottom of the motor facing downwards, can i crack this to drain the lines? Its the only one that i think will handle a spanner
Do you own air scaler and long barrel air hammer? Clean that thing with air scaler real good, knock everything out that is loose, so it will not get loose on you later. Tap undersize six point sockets on to the bolts, and oversize Allen key for socket head. Vibration is your friend, heat also! At the end if nothing else works just weld the nut on top of the head, it’ll heat the bolt up and will give you something to put tool on to!
yes but the nuts are rusted round at best, some are just round blobs of rust, they will snap for sure. I dont want to be in there with a grinder and drill fishing for bolt studs. I got about 3l of oil out the opposite lines. I should able to get some oil out if i crack the first line back up to the swivel area.
Here in SE of USA it is normal occurrence! We have very humid and hot weather! Anything that has some years on it - kinda looks like that! And believe me - it’s not looking that bad! About snapping: try the heat, and when still warm squirt some Airkroil, do it few times! But that’s the name of the game!
The easiest thing to do in the situation you have right now is to remove the case drain hose from the turning joint as well as one of the travel hoses . I know it's a pain but run those hoses into a bucket cap off the turning joint don't do anything more than idle and slowly apply travel and watched the oil run clear from the hoses if it starts to load the engine you're going the wrong way travel in the opposite direction but again move the travel lever very slowly and watch for the oil to flow. You're effectively doing the exact same thing your flushing clean oil through a used motor you're getting all the debris out that you can possibly get out but you're not disturbing your motor and you're not risking damaging the machine further
That large hex on the bottom of the illustration that you show I believe is your anti cavitations valve there may be a Spring a poppet and couple shims beneath . not something you really want to disturb with a that level of rust.
Hey guys remember hes not flushing out after a catastrophic failure He is just trying to remove milky water contaminated hydraulic oil. In the grand scheme of things that small amount of oil isn't going amount to squat it won't harm The system any more than hes already done by having that in there 1st place . We don't wanna make a bigger problem than it needs to be.
He is also repaints the whole machine! And if it was me I would want to replace those bolts on final drive! It’s gonna get only worse from there! At least where I’m at! If he lives in dry climate, then he might get away with it!
If it were me, I'd spray em with oil and forget about it. I'm too lazy to make more work for myself. But that's just me.
plan is to de-scale, treat with converter and prime & paint, anything further i cant be bothered with at the moment, just got to draw the line somewhere.
I dropped the 2 boom cylinders down, pushed the rods in and out a couple of times. Well worth it, got a heap of oil out. I plugged the ports with a hose into a bucket, unfortunately I pushed one a little too quick with the tractor bucket and the hose blew out. It was some milky geyser alright, it shot 20ft in the air. You can see the oil over the boom. I have oil everywhere, all over the shed, in my hair, ears.....couch. I have grey pungent sludge from the tank all down my arm to my neck. What a job! I let all the lines I cracked drain for 24hrs so I think I’ve achieved the goal as best possible.