I know I've got an odd duck, but it was cheap enough. Previous owner said the rails were replaced several years ago but has only had 350 hours on it since that time.. The bushings show almost no wear on them.. grousers are tall. For some reason, the sprockets were not replaced when the rails were, but he changed one of them last year, and all is well on that side. The other, the sprocket is worn, but not badly, but I have the new one, came with the machine. It's a berco, don't have the number handy. Anyhow, as I said, the sprocket on it doesn't look bad, but the track adjuster on this side is maxed out, track is quite further ahead than the other side, but track is still beyond the 3" or so total slack on the straightedge between the top of the highest grouser and the lowest across the two spots of measure. I highly doubt replacing this sprocket will get it to where it can tighten up with room left on the tensioner, and I don't have a hydraulic pin pusher, and afraid to cut a pin out because I've heard that I'm not going to find U/C parts for this machine, and I sure don't want to spend 15 or 20 grand to convert it to something more standard, the machine isn't worth half that. It's got a slight miss I'm trying to track down, and a couple leaks. Guy said he always ran TCH in the trans and 80/90 in the finals, is that right? I'm going to change it all before I start really using it. Only thing I don't know, he didn't have a manual and I haven't been able to find one, where are the filters/screens on this machine? It's strictly a farm dozer, not going to be doing any land clearing, mainly fixing creek crossings, covering tiles, and small grade work for projects. It should last me a lifetime for no more than it will have to work, and if it gets 100 hours a year with me on it it'll really have a big year. Thanks in advance to any of you who can help me, and if you know where I can locate parts and/or a manual, I'd be greatly appreciative!
ihmanky, I have a total of twenty minutes seat time on an 8B, so probably not the best qualified to comment on your machine. Logical first step would be to check that your chains have the same number of links on both sides. Next, check the pitch of both chains to see if they are evenly worn. Then, ensure that the idlers are the same diameter on the worn faces. If every thing checks out there, it may well be the sprocket. Is it segmented or one piece? My parts supplier here could probably sell you a reproduced service manual,at a price.
I do need to count the links...sprocket is one piece, I need to put it on, just not sure if I can drive the master pin out by hand. I'm sure I can, but then if I need to take a link out in not sure I can get the other pins out.
If it were mine, I'ld save a lot of sweat and cut the chain to split it, or remove a link, then weld it together. Sounds crude, but it is quick, simple and effective, especially given the size of your tractor and the use it is going to get. I, or others, can explain further if you need to go down that track.
I assume you're talking about cutting one of the links in two in the middle of the link, and then welding back together when the work is done? Or, in this case, I suppose cut two links in half, and join the front of one and the rear of another, essentially removing a "link" in that fashion. ?? Wonder if my Lincoln 225 AC stick welder could make it hold?
Yeah, more than enough. The track plate provides a good deal of the strength to hold it together. Iam only a novice welder and I haven't had one fail yet.