I was watching the adept ape channel on youtube. He is a cat mechanic. He mentioned that after a rebuild he fills the engine with the shop hose reel hooked into a port as to pressurize the system. Never herd anyone else doing that but seams to make sense to me. Jason
I saw that too. I disagree with it. I want my oil to go through the oil filter. I don't remember if he mentioned that or not. I do not worry much about oil pressure in moving parts as long as the pump catches prime before long. Assembly lube/oil is fine for as long as it takes for the pump to take off.
I have done it that way many times. I find a port on the main oil rifle before the filter. Such as the big cam cummins pump below-the large blue plastic plug goes straight through in pump to discharge side and to main rifle. But I also have a pre-lube tank that I use and crank it up to 40 psi with gauge plumbed into a oil rifle and bar engine over while lubing.
If his shop has a "standard" filtration system then all the bulk oils will be kidney-looped/recirculated within the tanks 24/7 and will come out of the gun far cleaner than the Cat minimum standard of ISO 16/13. That would be my only caveat.
Ever look at what's left in a fresh oil jug off the counter? very few shops I have been in including dealer shops is the oil pre-filtered.
In Cat shops the oil is filtered when dispensing from the bulk tanks . Per what Nige says. It’s part of contamination control standards for dealerships. in fact Cat says you Have to filter all free pour oil such as oil of jugs and buckets. Obviously anyone who has worked with buckets and jugs of oil knows how awkward doing that would be but that’s what Cat says. I joke that our next step is going to be filtering the waste oil I have not filled the engine this way but I easily could. I have filled the Drive loops on hydrostatic machines this way. I have an adapter to unscrew the nozzle on a bulk oil and attach in its place then I can connect a hose from it to a test port and fill through that. 99% of the time I put an engine in it’s a rebuild from our rebuild shop and thus it’s been broken in and run on the dyno so no prelube necessary
I would expect Cat & Deere to make all kinds of requirements, They have rules and regulation nazi's constantly worried about the stuff. There's only so clean you can keep the assembly of engines. I have seen engines starved of oil on start up but I have never seen one go upside down because of the oil.
The stated requirements by dealers are a way of avoiding warranty claims. Kind of hard for them to require pre-filtering engine oil when they sell it in plastic jugs. I have pre-lubed nearly all the engines that I've rebuilt. I took an old bulk grease can and pump and cleaned it out for the process. Big handle and lots of flow. I've also cleaned up a regular grease gun to do the same thing. Never had a problem. It's more just insurance and peace of mind than considering any kind of risk of a lube failure.
We used to joke that when an oil came out of the hose and into the quick coupler of the machine that was the cleanest it was ever going to be before it was drained at oil change time. We messed around with filtration (C C Jensen is my particular favourite) until we had hydraulic/transmission oils being filled into machines at ISO Codes that were something of the order of 12/9 or 11/8, respectively 16 times and 32 times cleaner that the 16/13 minimum standard which we were supposed to maintain for fill oils.
I agree John, but in the case of the jugs they have no control over who uses the oil in them or what cleanliness practices they use (or not as the case may be) when pouring the oil from the container into a machine compared to the control the dealer has over the bulk oils in the shop.
My favorite is aft out of a quart bottle, there is always residue in the bottom. If anything would have a problem with possible contaminates it's automatic transmissions. It takes nothing to hang up a valve body.
Generally the smaller the container the more issue there is with contamination/sediment in my experience.
Oh yes==I have a tendency of not emptying to the last drop.
I paid for that sediment and I'm going to use it.
Too funny.
Was thaught that dirty oil was better than no oil for an engine. That was the reason a filter bypass was fitted.
Deere and hitachi always had lots of sediment left in their oil containers.
That ape has some good information but I never saw that one. I have done that for years after an employee spun the bearings out of a GM 366 crate motor. Prefer to be before the engine oil filter but my meter gun has a pretty fine screen in it where the hose connects.
I walked into a local dealer one day and saw an employee with an oil gun in his hand and he was filling about 20-30 empty, open top 5 gallon buckets from a bulk tank. When he was finished with all 20-30 he went around and hammered the lids on. The outdoor sliding door was open and about 50 feet across the lot, which was also a main drive to the shop area, was their welding shop. These buckets were then placed in the parts dept. and sold., I never bought oil from them again.
Back in the 90s that was common practice in my area. They had a bunch of barrels out back, one side on a brick to keep rain water drained off the top. Stacks of buckets in an area. You walk up, tell them what you want, they install one of those tapper valves in the bung, tip the barrel on the stand, fill up your bucket, hammer the lid on, slap the proper sticker on. But this was just a bulk plant, no welding in the area. But dust at least.
Have had a Pre Lube jug for years, just prior to the actual Factory Built one have currently I had several old air tanks that I cleaned up added a 2" pipe nipple and cap to use to prelube engines prior to first start. Had ONE seemingly simple rebuild failed to use the shop bottle preferring to crank until had pressure and spun a cam bearing in it. Lesson learned.