Can anyone tell me if it's possible to remove the right final drive on a case 1150b crawler loader without removing the transmission. Manual shows taking out trans and final drives as one assembly. Got all bolts, nuts, snd sprocket removed. It's separating at the bottom with the help of a small bottle jack, but top won't come apart. Anyone out there ever have any luck just pulling the final drive by itself? Thanks Mike
Welcome to HEF @Mike 1150b ! They (final drives) are awkward to support during this type of removal. Have done it a few times on smaller models (450 & 850) but I can't recall 1150B. TIP - try to avoid driving a chisel or screwdriver between the housings as you will damage the shims, & they are expensive to buy. Can I ask you the reason why you need to do this repair?
Hello alrman! Thanks for replying. She won't hold oil, bad seals. Was bone dry when i purchased last year, sprocket shaft moving side to side and up n down about 1/4 of an inch. Getting a popping noise from down there, and sometimes have to shift forward to reverese to get it to move, possibly binding, or climbing on gears. I've made the fixture the manual calls for to remove it, problem is the eye bolt is under cab area, and can't get a straight up lift on it. Supported it underneath with floor jack, but still not having any luck. Shims are ok so far.
Are you sure you have all the bolts out? We pulled the right side final off of a 1150C once. It was a pretty straightforward job if I remember. I know some of the top bolts are real b***ards to get out? Is the top coming apart at all? I don't recall it being very hard to separate from the machine after all the bolts are out.
Greetings shimmy1, yes i double checked, 6 big bolts 3 through top and 3 through bottom where it's fastened to frame, 4 bolts on top 2 at each corner where it's fastened to cab, then all nuts off the studs that come out of tranny housing. Looks like the fd housing has flange that fits to the inside of the trans housing? I'm wondering if that's rusted tight, between that and the rust that's between fd housing and frame is holding tight? Did yours come out without too much force? I'm getting about a 1/4" gap around the bottom when i use a bottle jack to push on it. I just don't want to get too forceful with it and bust something. Thanks for replying.
Shimmy1, did you jack up frame, or cab at all? I've got the cab jacked up enough i can see light under both brackets at the top. And no i can't get any gap at the very top between the 2 housings. Maybe i need to try and pull it out without jacking anything up? Figured i at least needed to support the cab a little.
It was over 20 years ago, so I'm a little foggy on the exact details. I believe we just broke the track, jacked it up enough to pull the sprocket off, and then removed it. We had trouble a couple times with that particular final. First time, bearings went out on the axle shaft. We fixed those with the final on the tractor. Then, a couple years later, a rock was picked up by the webbing on the back side of sprocket and carried around. That was bad. Pulled the axle shaft out of the final itself, broke the casting inside the housing that held the inner bearing cup. I believe we may have removed the axle shaft and bullgear before removing the housing itself? Hopefully Sheepsfoot chimes in here and can give you some info that isn't 20 year old recollection, lol.
Call me stupid, but i did find a nut that i missed. Was at work today, going to crawl under and do a little cursing right now. Hopefully i can reply back with good news.
Well I'll have to go to town tomorrow to get another bottle of oxygen. Need to heat wrench up to make offset so it don't hit stud next to it. You'r right about being ba***rds. Can't even see this thing from topside. After getting what i thought was the last one, figured it was so far up there, there couldn't have been anymore. I'm hoping after tearing it down all i need is the bearing/ seal kit. Looks like parts are pretty pricey for this thing. I'll keep ya posted, thanks for helping.
Hope I am wrong ,but from what I remember as a young fella ,they are prone to taking out a tooth or 2 with bearing failure .
Good news, final drive is off highlift. Don't know the damage inside yet, but bevel gear looks good. Bad news, the pinion shaft inside tranny that drives bevel gear looks pretty rough. Has 1 tooth almost completely gone, and others look pitted. Grabed it with a rag and it turns back n forth bout 1/8 of an inch. No up n down or side to side play though. Can anyone tell me if that's normal.
That's good & bad Mike! The movement on the pinion isn't really a problem if it has a tooth missing & decay issues.....
Guess for now I'll go through the fd and get it rebuilt. Anyone know if trans has to come out to replace that pinion? My guess would be yes, unfortunately.
It comes out the rear, but the brakes need to be dismantled & there is a hi torque pinion nut to loosen. I have heard of them being done with the transmission still fitted, but I wouldn't even attempt it. SO much easier with it out of the machine & in the open.
Ok, thanks alrman. I'm sure glad i became a member of this forum. You guys are great help
Not much to rebuild on that final, just a couple tapered roller bearings and a duo-cone. The preload is set with "rolling torque", and if you are going to change that pinion, you're going to need a new bevel gear. Nothing much to do with the final until that point, unless you're planning on putting the new bevel gear in. Also, the transmission disassembles out the back of the tractor.
Haven't opened it up yet, but I'm afraid the splines are chewed up in a couple places, with the slop that's going on. Shimmy1, what's you're opinion on that pinion shaft? Would you replace it, i guess you have to buy a matched set, bevel gear and pinion shaft?
Looks like this rebuilds gonna cost me.
Is this housing ok? Looks like it was chewed up at another time.