Finally won a bid at Ritchie. Got a pretty sweet 2004 JD 210LE with a 4 in 1 bucket and Gannon brand box for $12k. Runs great (so far LOL) with good rubber. Gonna be perfect for my ranch chores.
Looks like a pretty good machine, stuff moves fast at RB auctions.
Looks like a good buy. I've been thinking a Case or JD 4x4 skip loader would be handy on my 185 acre stump pasture. I was wondering if farmers and ranchers ever buy them to do work around their property. 4x4 Ag tractors tend to be light built. Disadvantages: No PTO, no quick attach bucket. Transmission not designed for long hard pulls. Advantages: Built much more rugged than AG tractors, especially when using the loader to excavate. Lower center of gravity. Usually a pretty good bargain compared to comparable HP Ag tractor. Have I left anything out?
Nice looking machine for a decent price. I think you'll be real happy with your purchase.
congrats. wish i had one! that is a fantastic price for that model first thing i would do is replace all fluid and blades. and then put her to work
Thanks hammer, it is in transit and should be here Friday...pretty excited. It's for use around here at the ranch and I'll have plenty of chores for it. I DO plan on going over everything once it arrives but I have a question about the hydraulic system. I found an operators manual online and it appears the hydraulics run on motor oil. Is this true? Seems odd to me, everything I'm use to (industrial applications) have used a much lighter oil. Any other suggestions on the whole deal? Other points to watch for on this Johnny?? What is everyone doing for a service manual (purchase or online)? All service will be done here...
here is what i would do. replace everything with deere stuff. filters, oils, parts. dont do the napa stuff. ( my opinion after reading the stories on here breakdown and buy the service manual.. its worth every cent http://www.ebay.com/itm/John-Deere-...764569?hash=item3ac24a7c59:g:pJoAAOSwBahVV5zk use those diesel fuel lubes available. i use the amsoil one...help the pump out. the amsoil grease is handy in the desert cause it really sticks when the temps climb high https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...meric-off-road-grease-nlgi-2/?code=GPOR2CR-EA we have a 210le at the ranch i work at and it uses Hydraulic oil for the hydros like caterpillar does. The transmission is hydraulic but uses a much different hydraulic oil. check the official manual first on that one.
Lots of very knowledgeable people will be horrified at the thought of using motor oil in hydraulics. Case just announced a new product for all manufacturers machines. I bet plenty of other manufacturers can offer similar product. My Dresser crawler calls for motor oil, then specifies several properties I've never seen in motor oil. The closest I've seen is Hy Tran from Case/IH. I used this product as a kid when I assembled new tractors for the local IH dealer. It contains friction modifiers for wet brake systems, water bonding additives to isolate pockets of water from moving parts, and a dozen other additives only a chemist would know it needs. Willie
yep. thats why i use the case hytran myself. keeps the rubber good get to knw the deere guys around you or get to know the ups/fedex guy. i buy my oil from coleman. ship the 5gallons right to my door
I've actually known 2 backhoe operators that only used motor oil in their hydraulics they said ran smoother ? I've never tried it so can't really comment.
My JD 317 skid steer used motor oil in the hydraulics too. Said so right in the manual.
This is what came out of the online service manual I found...Mys SN is 882895
awesome go for it
HA...Not so fast...LOL That's why I was asking you guys! The frigg'n manufactures all want you to use their dang proprietary lube. Look at Harley Davidson (which I own and love) they recommend their motor oil in all three holes, engine transmission and primary. Uhhh, I don't think so...motor oil in the transmission make no sense at all...but anyway...I was mostly wondering what the majority of JD 210 owners and others with way more experience than me thought and used in their machines. And THANKS to all for the comments and recommendations so far. I'm new here and don't want to **** anyone off.
PTO was an option, I wouldn't worry too much about the tranny, just watch for the heat warning. Yeah, no quick attach, but that 4 in 1 makes up for a lot.
We heard that some Deere machines use motor oil (huh?)and I called a good JD dealer contact and he said indeed it is true....he sort of hinted that the idea comes and goes depending on if they want 'one oil' in the marketing plan but he did not indicate to swap em out for the other as one feels inclined....thought I read about this topic somewhere else on HEF....I believe the motor oil is more $ than the hydraulic which is likely one good reason why it isn't joyously accepted.
Well, Here's the good news and the bad news... Good news...The 210LE was delivered today from Sacramento to So.Ut. Took'm 3 days...The machine is amazingly clean and relatively little wear, appears it was very well cared for. Everything works, gauges, lights, trans, bucket and box... Bad news...the engine sounds horrible. It runs like crap, like on three cyls and sounds like it has a rod knock...a bad rod knock...so bad it almost hurts your ears. Something is surely not right and I'm not sure what to do next. Really sux and really depressing. I have about $14500 in it total at this point, and possibly a new engine hanging over my head. How much for a short block if the engine is trash and what's involved in R&R? I've got a great shop setup but not sure I can handle the size and weight. Looks like the entire trans comes out with the engine. Any suggestions and recommendations? Not sure what to do next... THANKS ALL!! Paul
Does it have an oil pressure gauge and does it have normal oil pressure? Loosen each injector line one at a time in turn, keep your hands away from the connection it will spray diesel at pressure. This should allow you to isolate which cylinder is malfunctioning, like pulling the spark plug wire of the plug on a gas engine. If the knock pretty much goes away on one cylinder with the injector line loose, try swapping injectors, see if the issue follows the injector, or for have the injectors tested, or swap in one new one. Weak/leaky injectors will cause a serious preignition knock you will swear is a rod. Maybe you'll get lucky. If the oil pressure is down, pull the pan.
lantraxco: I'm so glad you mentioned injectors. An injector issue was ratl'n around in my head. I'm NOT a diesel mechanic...I love'm, driven them large and small but never wrenched on them so this is my first rodeo. Your suggestion will be the first thin I try. That could be why it appears to be running on three cylinders, low power etc. It DOES appear to nave a new injector pump. Man, if it's an injector I'll buy you a soda (or whiskey LOL). Oh, no oil gauge but the light goes out as soon as she fires up. Only had her a few hours but a good Oil pressure gauge might be in the works. I'll keep ya'll posted.
You could just temporarily use any pressure guage, 0 to 100 PSI or so with a 1/4" or 1/8" NPT connection and hook it to the block at the oil port, then re-connect the oil sending unit when you're finished. Good advice from lantraxco. Good luck! Always check all the simple things first, it might just be minor stuff. Don't run it at high RPM when it knocks.
Had an injector knock develop on my dump truck sounded like a rod hammering was told to take the fuel filter off fill it 1/2 full of sea foam so gave it a try and the hammering stopped. Also added reslone to the oil because the hammering started right after an oil change with shell rotella ( which I won't be buying again) though many seem to swear by it.
Another thought, with the apparently new injector pump, there must'a been something going on...Could/Can someone screw up the install/timing to get a symptom like i'm seeing...like it was one tooth off? that would cause this hammering. Listening to it, it sounds like it's from the top end...It's more high frequency rather than a dull "THUD" like a FU'd rod. I recorded the sound but it's difficult to discern from the video... I'll post the video later...
Sometimes detonation can sound like metal to metal. Like someone left a socket in the cylinder. The cylinder that's knocking can be the next one in the firing order carrying the load which the weak cylinder dropped. You can also take a large screwdriver and hold the handle to your ear and touch the tip against each cylinder and injector to get clues. It can be tricky to locate problems by sound in person and harder on the internet. One time I told a friend his truck sounded like it swallowed a valve. It turned out a piece of exhaust gasket at the exhaust port fell out and the exhaust hammered a piece of tin heat deflector, LOL.
Hard to tell anything from this YouTube, but here it is anyway... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdQpE_U5A78
Ok, Cracking the fuel lines to each injector they 2-4 made the engine slow with a noticeable change. The front cylinder had no change at all. Pulled the injector and will get it tested tomorrow, anything else to consider? Wish I had a bore scope to look down the hole...
Google "android borescope" works with smart phones and around $25
Or Harbor Freight, they sell some inexpensive ones.
You could also swap injectors into different cylinders and see if the problem follows the injector.
If the plastic bushings are worn out and missing from the hydraulic pump coupler at the front of the engine, the noise you will hear is easy to mistake for a bad engine. I know of one tractor that was sold for that reason. May not be your problem but might be worth looking at anyway. I really couldn't tell much from the video.
Huh, I had no idea that was available. Pretty cool and cheap, I'll probably order one! On a side note, I'm heading the the JD dealer for an injector but I brought the piston up TDC and hit it with air and it pushed the piston down, so that's a good thing...At least there isn't a hole in the piston... Really counting on this being a fuel/injector problem...and not a rod! I'll give a follow up later.
Those engines I believe have balancer shafts with bolt on weights, could be something there coming loose and wanting to get out also? If the injector doesn't help it's probably time to pull the pan off and look around.
Ughh, no injector...they had to order it, be in on Wednesday. Oh, they tested the injector and it was firing and dribbling at 3200 psi. Spec is 3600.
Dribbling is bad, cross our fingers this is your problem! :yup