My Mauldin M413XT came with a broken fitting on the high side of the compressor. I managed to find parts to fix it on a specialized website and at NAPA. Works like a charm for the glory of cool here in the hot Texas Sun. I got the gauges and vacuum pump at Harbor Freight for about 200 bucks, but now I have what I need to service other vehicles too, instead of blowing 200 bucks on one service by a mobile AC mechanic I'm telling you guys so you won't hesitate if the time comes to fix your own AC system. It's not that difficult
Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't.
Yes, we were lucky. The compressor could well have been toasted by humidity due to the system being open. Dunno how long it was open. But the compressor is also available for a couple hundred from the same specialty AC shop I found near Houston. Or the quad-hoseclamp splice my son made could have leaked. But so far it's all holding. Worst case, I would have spent bucks on AC repair equipment that didn't finish this job. But then I have it for the next vehicle, like our daughters CVPI which is sweating 134a at a Schrader valve...
It was 102 with the humidex yesterday and today. That's unheard of in these parts this time of year, it normally 60 to 70. The last risk of frost is not till the new moon in June. Anyway, guess what..... my AC is not working. I don't know about your's, but I can hardly lay my hand on the plate beside my seat when I am working her hard. The AC guy might be around this weekend, here's hoping.
Not sure what humidex is. We've had a few days at 98F recently here, I was able to work fine as long as I also run the little fan up in the top left corner. I found the company that makes the AC in mine, was told they made it for many years, probably in yours too. I called them and they were really helpful. Have you put a manifold on the high and low sides yet? Might just be low R134a. I used this site to charge mine. https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/ac-pressure-gauge-readings/ Here are some pics of my system.
Your lucky, here R134A is highly dangerous and unless you have the appropriate qualifications, equipment and pay $$$$ yearly for your certificate, you can not buy it. So here people resort to using a form of propane for refrigerant.
Seems to me the propane would be more of a danger!!
Humidex is how hot it feels with the temperature, and humidity. Mine fails every spring. So far, they have replaced the accumulator twice, and the compressor. They are pretty good at keeping up the AC in all the equipment here. There is a young fella that will come in evenings, and even go out on site an do repairs. He has a day job, so his prices a reasonable. They have 45 pickup trucks, and one tons, a dozen tandems and trailer trucks, and 30 or so pieces of equipment, plus the screener, wash plant, crusher spread, and asphalt plant to maintain, and only 3 mechanics, and 2 welders. Some stuff is just easier to out source. Even a lot of repair on the equipment is done by the dealers. Anyway, a lot more spring like today, just came back fro walking the dog and it's 52. I was going to take advantage of the temp change to get some yard work done, but the black flies and mosquitos are so bad and I'm out of fly dope
I remember when the flies would hit in France. Same kinda climate. Some folks say eating a lot of raw garlic helps.
Where is that? Cali? There's a new refrigerant coming out that is genuinely dangerous. I'll stick with R134a...
Interesting - Propane? That sounds more dangerous. I can go a couple of blocks and buy all the 134a I can carry at my local auto parts store. Usually keep a few cans in the tool box for our equipment. Reno we have a set of gauges and a small 134a tote for servicing our equipment. One of our guys is really good at it and enjoys it. You're right it's not that difficult with the right tools.
I used this. I don't know if it is propane or not, but this stuff works. Lower high side pressure also. https://diyparts.com/auto-air-condi...ehicle-ac-refrigerant-replacement-dye-6-cans/
Very non-specific as to what it is. Can't find a MSDS. I would guess it is some propane/butane combination. The government will shut them down if they get noticed enough.
Yeah... maybe they will, maybe they wont. Maybe....just maybe the government will find something better to do with their time and and our money.. Maybe they won't.
20 bucks you get a card in the mail and it never expires and you can google the answers on the test....
have a auto electric mate who was working on a car with the engine bay wiring burnt . asked what caused it and he said the owner used propane in the air con ,had a gas leak went to start the car and it exploded ,blew off the bonnet and burnt the wiring.
Never use propane! A slight leak in the evaporator and your cab fills with the gas. One spark and your history. A leak under the hood can blow your car up.
The current stuff, r1234yf, is actually more flammable than propane! However, when it escapes into the atmosphere, it doesn't offend the baby seals olfactory sensibilities.
Is that the one VW is pushing? If it burns, it's a fatal gas produced.
Plenty of propane powered cars around. I used it in old equipment simply because over here you can not buy R134A. Those that can buy R134A know how restricted it is, so charge accordingly when the equipment cannot be taken to their workshop.
As I said, my Mauldin runs cold, around 150. This summer it has been slowly creeping up to normal running temp. We were shouldering the road on Tuesday. Hot day, 3 day old asphalt, 500 bucks a pop for each mark in the new pave. Gauges above my head, trying to watch so as not to mark the pave. Engine starts to die, first thought, running out of fuel. Look up, 250 degrees, engine dies. Started her up to get her on the float. Knocking, 5 pounds of oil pressure. Next day. engine dry of antifreeze, but rad tank full. Checked the other Mauldin, tank full. Poured 2 gallons in. Poor set up.
It took just over 2 cans to charge up my system on my 2006 Dodge Ram. I'm not sure if it's propane, butane, laughing gas or diesel smoke. And honestly, I really don't care. Not today anyways. What I do know is that my thermometer shows 40-45* at the vents, recirculating mode, fan at medium setting after about 10 minutes. My high side pressures are much lower also. Easier on hoses, seals and compressor? Who knows? But a high of 195 psi works for me. I plugged my laptop in for the ride home from work Tuesday. This is what the numbers looked like.
And I bought a total of 10 cans.....just in case.
So the motor was out of coolant but the expansion tank was full? Or the radiator was full? If your thermostat seizes closed it would keep coolant in the radiator and not allow it in the motor. Coolant in the motor would eventually boil away. Maybe that's what's happening. Does not sound good, in any case, 5 psi oil pressure is too low to protect the various bearings and cam lobes
The tank is on top of the rad, but not part of the rad. I would guess she turned a bearing. The motor was shipped off to a deutz dealer for reman. Hopefully they don't take too long. Crazy busy this year. People are not traveling, so they are spending money on pools, decks and asphalt