Looking at buying a 2006 d5g that was flooded new. Guy bought out a whole dealership in Louisiana, got them running and then sat until now. Dozer is actually clean and not rusty, pretty sure water got into cab. Being that it has been sitting up for 20 years I wanted to make sure I do it right and not try to rush putting power to it without cleaning all of the connections and such. Yes I know I could be in for a hell of a time with it , I have a huge shop with overhead cranes and mechanically inclined and love a challenge.
Better just budget for complete drivetrain now. If it didn't get ran enough to dry all the water out of the system after it was flushed clean, it might be rusted tight.
I definitely didn’t want to try to turn it over until I got it back to my shop, I can handle the motor I’m worried about the electronics honestly, not sure how much that year and model has.
Post a machine Serial Number for more information. It will also get you an electrical schematic. Most of the expensive electronics are above cab floor level. As that tractor has a hydrostatic drive system you had better plan on including the (very expensive) drive pumps and motors on the assumption that they are all rusted solid by now. Maybe a plan would be to pull the engine and pumps out of it (they R&I as a single unit) and start from there.?
Was it under fresh water or salt water. Depends how much got in, and whether or not any was drained out before the rust started. Simon C
If they didn't run it with the flooded oil, and drained, flushed, and refilled the hydraulics before starting, there could be a slim chance that the rust isn't too bad. I would not touch it unless I could take a hose or two off and see what it looks like. If there is rust on the engine dipstick, I'd take big steps the opposite way.
All depends on how high the water got up on machine if it stayed below the breathers and dipsticks it might not of had any water entry.
20 years is a long time in a coastal area for oil to not be splashed around.
I just hope you didn't pay more than the obvious good parts are worth, for it.
Wouldn't the hydrostat pumps and motors be sealed and full of oil making it hard for water to get in unless it was submerged well above the floor boards? Depending on how long it was submerged the hydraulic reservoir may have had some pressure in it too. It's a new machine that had to have run some. My track loader will hold pressure in the hydraulic reservoir for month's. Wiring and electronics might be the biggest issue related to water.
He says they got it running, and it sat 20 years. If there was any water in that hydraulic oil, those pumps/motors will be rusted solid from the inside.
A lot of variables and unknowns with this one. I would try to find out all you could from the people that get it going. How long was it flooded? How high did it get? What did they drain out of it? What did it look like? How much did they run it? Did everything work fine then? Why has a machine like that then set for 20 years? Out side the whole time? You could try taking some connectors apart if they will let you and see what they look like. Alot can be forgotten in 20 years. Also have to decide if they are telling you all the truth.
A few thoughts we had a 953 working in the flood land of a flood control dam big storm came up and flooded the 953 and a dozer hystat on the early 953 were not vented so there was no problem there changed engine oil and finals wire connectors are sealed pretty well we didn’t have any problems with wiring
I would slaken off every drain plug on it to see it there is any water present . 20 years sitting water may have found it's way in and it needs to be drained . That can be done without losing most of the oil . That oil become the flushing oil and needs to be changed as it has a 4 year shelf life any way .
What about the corrosion/rusting above the oil level.? Have you considered that.?
If the dozer was drained and started after the flooding it should be no different to any machine sitting for an extended period . Water should go to the bottom unless the things been run with water present .
I think what Nige is referring to is rust/corrosion from condensation just from temperature changes all those years. Say in a basic transmission if it sets a long time the oil can all drip off the parts that are out of oil and they can start to rust from condensation. That may not cause much problems in a basic transmission but in a system with hydraulics, it can start sending junk through the system and the problems may not show up right away. Another thing that can happen is water can loosen the bonding on some brake or clutch disc and cause them to start coming apart sending all kinds of things through the system. Normal use came keep alot of that evaporated off but long periods of setting can cause the moisture load to become to high. I wonder if this would be better to look at as an opportunity for a good use parts machine rather than something to put into service. All the good parts on it would not have any hours on them.
I think it is a Cat therefore, it will be fine. I would be cautious but heavy equipment has sat around for decades before and will again. Its a sealed hydrostatic and while there will be issues, I think a complete flushing and checking all electrical connections, it should be good. You will have the expected problems but the bones should be good. I am assuming that they got everything flushed when they got it running after being flooded. Expect to do every seal that had air on it.
That's exactly what I was referring to. Anything above the level of the oil in whatever compartment should have been exposed to an environment filled with condensation all that time and therefore to corrosion. If the engine has not been turned over at all in however many years who knows how much rust above the oil level there is inside ever component.?
What about seals? It seems like a machine that's been sitting so long will likely have quite a few leaky seals shortly after you get it up and running. I'd expect a lot of "interesting" gremlins to keep popping up to keep you busy troubleshooting, at least for the first 1000 hrs. I wouldn't expect it to be a reliable front line machine but would probably be great for a hobby machine if you have deep pockets and plenty of spare time. If you like a challenge this may be the machine for you.
Just judging by the bolt heads, it looks like the machine may have been completely submerged. Lots of rust running out at the bottom of the grill. The engine side covers are pretty rusty too.
Offer scrap price and walk away if they don't take it.
Might be worth a little more than scrap as a parts machine but not much figuring labor to remove, marketing and shipping the parts. I wouldn't touch that machine for anymore than scrap price even with Nige's knowledge.
That makes two of us, but what do I know.?
If it was an XL I might be interested in the UC, sweeps and blade..
What are the chances the track chains have frozen links after not moving for nearly 20 years? Sweeps and blade I wouldn't have a problem with but anything with seals and moving parts will most likely be problematic.
Didn't say how much I was willing to pay for the chains. Pads, idlers and sprocket segments may be alright.
Hmmm salt track You guys are scaring the poor guy you might be surprised Depending how high the water got it might turn out to be a real good machine
It might, just like that light at the end of the tunnel might just be a train coming in the opposite direction.
Might just be the other end of the tunnel. I've done a few flooded machines and a bunch of crispy 973s I'll take a flooded one
I agree. I’d take a flooded one over a crispy one every time. The negative is that this particular machine has been sat for 20 years according to the OP.
All I can say is nothing ventured nothing gained I vote for changing the oils and give it a try the worst thing that could happen is it has too many problems and you have to part it out
This is more a financial decision IMO - depends on what they paid for the machine.
Guy bought out a whole dealership in Louisiana, got them running and then sat until now. Is this the first machine he's selling? If it's not what's the condition of others he's sold? How many are there or were there? Joe H
Bought two more, anybody know what size the crank bolt is?
He had about 50 of them, I got it running no problem, hydraulics were sealed tight no leaks no moisture. Motor was drained and no problems.
He had 50 machines! What happened to them all? The one you got running, how did the oils look? Everything work ok on it?
What are the other two d5s too?
This one originally is a d5g lgp with limb risers with 0.1 hours. No water in anything, I want to change all fuses while I’m cleaning it, any idea what brand fuses cat uses? The other two I’m about to grab are d5g lgp open cab with limb risers that run with less than 29 hours
He bought out a whole dealership after Katrina and got them all running and let them sit after, dude had too much going on. He just died and kids selling them all
Probably buss some had resettable relays to I know I have a couple in my box I'll look tomorrow
Also I’m ready to change all of the fluids, do you have to drain each hydraulic pump separately?
Usually not look behind seat back probably a compartment with maintenance manual
Where did the stuff in picture come from??
Right by door on left side, there’s usually a plaque there, cat took them off.
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I don’t remember why we took these out but they came out of a new cat machine
Bought another one that the insurance company drilled holes in the block, the guy gave me another new block to go with it. What’s best way to pull motor on cat d5g’s. Sad thing is cat is down for the last week they said they got hacked, do I pull it where the bellhousing bolts to the 1/2 plate with all the bolts around it, or at the pump right behind bellhousing?
Engine & pumps cone out as an assembly. Split them when they are out of the tractor.
So what size holes and what or where do they go into? Thread them and install plugs.
Why was the insurance company putting it out of service?
They were probably verifying water inclusion and trashing a machine that they were paying for. Much like a salvage title on a motor vehicle.
Harley is right, so the pump connected to the bellhousing has to come with motor is what he is saying right? I always thought you can just pull motor..
Always easier to pull both and separate on floor.
I can’t believe cat has been down over a week, hopefully they will be back up soon.
Anybody have a schematic?
Is this your dealer of mother Cat?
Not sure what you mean Mother cat?
Mother Caterpillar. Just like Mother Deere, Mother Case, Mother Komatsu. I do know that the manufacturers have way more control over things than anyone would want to believe.
Oh lol, they said they got hacked
Of what.? TBH if you are going to be doing a shed load of work on these machines you would be well advised to invest in a Parts Manual. Caterpillar Publication reference SEBP3827 covers all machine with Serial Numbers RKGxxxxx or WGBxxxxx. If you want a copy send me a PM.
I pmd you
Replied.
You might also think about investing in a Service Manual I can't help you with that but the Cat Publication reference is RENR7310. New it is priced at $780 in paper form or $506 on a CD.
How can I post a video?
Host it on YouTube and then link it.
Video of the final drive
About as beautiful as it gets!
So I bought another one from him, this one wasn’t so good . New crank from cat is $3800, aftermarket $1100. Anybody used a aftermarket?
Could it be ground?
No they said it was started with water in it, bent it also
That doesn't look very good!
That block is going to require some attention. I probably would not trust it.