The tank is combo fuel & hydraulic 50 each so at this moment on the jobsite I can't remove the whole thing like I should. I have a drain plug on the bottom may be 3/4" hole and standard fill on top. Any tips as for draining it? I need to save some of the fuel as I filled it to keep the job going and not pick off the tank bottom. Any tips on flushing it would be helpful. My ideas were pump all but the last 3 inches not pumping from the bottom. Then drain the rest and dispose of it. Then flush the tank with water and some type cleaner (? even soap) mix. Then put the heat gun into the bottom drain hole and let it heat the tank, I can also get some towels in the tank to wipe excess and move around with a stick. I did my truck tank and had to caot it with POR15 and it worked good but I removed the tank. I am all ears, thanks.
If you can, get a water filter housing from home depot and run that until you can do it right. Houseing is $50 and filters are $10 a handy thing to have in the future also. Trust me even if you flush it all the crud will not come out. The good water filters are better than most fuel filters as far as micron size. Get the pleated ones and they last about five times longer than the non-pleated. A bonus is the houseings on most of the water filter set ups are see through so you can gauge how much crap is in your fuel and guess as to when to change it before you plug it. That would be my humble advice. Then when you can get it back to the shop drain it all out including the crud into 55 gallon drums and let it sit for about 3 months. Gravity has this way of being the best filter available if you are patient. Then pressure wash the crap out of the tanks with the drain open. Just make sure to add some kind of alcohol to your fuel once you are done cleaning. Then you should not have any water related problems. Keep the water filter on there until you can't see crud in the fuel. Trust me its a long term project depending on how contaminated you are. Ask me how I know?? Hope that helps.
Thanks:drinkup The machine quit again yesterday and the pickup was clean I think I have an injector pump problem I will still clean the tank this weekend. Thanks for the help!
I would take a good look at all the cheap options before springing for a new injector pump. Seems as every mechanic (parts changers) I've ever talked to likes to change that first. Dumb idea. Some engines will run a small screen inline check that. Run some injector cleaner also. I prefer BG 44k I know it says for gas engines but the stuff works wonders on diesels too. What kind of symptoms are you having. If the injector pump is crap it should run like crap idle rough and start poorly. If it just up and quits you have a delivery problem of some sort that is probably not injector pump related.
If there is a lot of sludge in the filter but not much filth on the bottom of the tank it could be a diesel bacterium . Be sure not to get any in your body! So don't blow any lines with your mouth. Quick and dirty solution against the micro organism is put some methanol in your diesel (1:200 liter mix) and this binds the free water to the diesel and kills the bacterium which lives in the water.
Where do you get that? Is it in some of the additives they sell?
The machine picks up from the bottom regardless of what the level is , that is where the pickup tube is located . Maybe your Nylon prime pump check valves are cracked or not seating properly . Does the engine quit when the fuel level is low and the engine is uphill ? The check valves could be your problem .
Don't know where the check valves would be. Did drop in a new lift pump last week as then I could not get fuel to the filter. There was some fine fine sediment in the fliter after a few days running. I didn't think it was enough to stop anything having watched the same type filters for 23 years. Dropped a new on in there agian anyway. There was some munge on the screen on the pick up in the tank and I cleaned it. Yesterday when it stopped I checked that first and it was clean. It just stopped on a level floor.:beatsme I have to take a deep breath every time I run it hoping it doesn't quit. The other machine did that for years and I think it was some intermittant inject pump problem. I put in a rebuilt pump and so far it has been good through one job. It would go for a few days or weeks then just stop and then start minutes later or an hours as I tried to prime te system with no ryme or reason I could see.
Are your fuel lines from the tank rubber? They can be deteriorated on the inside and look fine on the outside. I had problems with a cat 225 excavator with a intermittent problem of running rough/stalling. I changed filters, checked the tank, even sent the injection pump in to be checked. Still had the problem. Then my mechanic friend pulled up in his service truck, grabbed a couple of tools, pulled the fuel line off and there was the problem. It was all rotten inside. He cut it open and showed me. A new fuel line and it was all good.
Are you sure it's fuel related ? It could be a crook cut off solenoid on the pump , loose wire on the ignition switch , faulty ignition relay etc etc . Don't limit your efforts at the fuel tank , have a good look around . Is there air in the system when you bleed it again ? The check valves i spoke of are under the prime pump and under the bung beside the prime pump . There may also be a screen on the banjo bolt holding the supply line onto the lift pump , it could be blocked . But usually a blockage will cause loss of power and stalling , they are not usually intermittent .
Over here in parts of Europe its mandatory to put around 5% of bio diesel into the main fuel. I don't think they do it in the states, and therefor you ain't got bacterium problems (i think) so disregard my post.
No screen to the lift pump just in the tank. No air in system when it shuts down this time. I cracked the filter bleed and fuell was spuirting out. Not sure if pump selenoid is causing it but yesterday when it stopped I turned the key on and off and heard it clicking. Ran fine all day yesterday. Rubber fuel lines seem OK as I blew in them with no leaks. I'll check the key switch today and wiring. Thanks all!
I'm betting that would be the problem from you symptoms.
Fuel line is not new but it seems OK. Ran fine all day :Banghead:Banghead No loose wires I can see as I wiggled them all and tugged them.
runs fine and starts fine. It did just shut off like a key once and then the other time it just seemed weak for 20 seconds and shut down. Then it started after 10 mintues of sitting. I had a brake line that collapsed on my truck. Brakes worked fine then once in a while the calipers would not release then overheat :Banghead:Banghead:Banghead After a few calipers I finally figured the rubber brake line clollapsed and fluid would go to the caliper but not release from it.
It's going to be a process of elimination . Next time it stops , do as you did before . Turn the key on and off and see if it will restart , if it does i would check the cut off solenoid , ignition relay (points may be dirty) , and wiggle the wiring . Check one at a time though so you know what it is if it starts .
You need to check the wire that runs the shut off solenoid from top to bottom. Remember it has to be energized for the engine to get fuel. Any loose or corroded connection can cause a loss of power to that circuit and shut you down. You need to do more than just the wiggle test. If it has any sort of manual shut down on the injector pump you can remove the electric shut off and run it with out to determine if that is the problem. Checking your fuel lines well too is not a bad idea. Once you start eliminating things the answer will be found. Start easy to hard unless the evidence leads else where.
no manual shut off. When it died I did try to listen for the selenoid and it was clicking so that would mean it had power. I will check the wire as it could be intermittant. Thanks!
I had electric shut off on a newholland skid steer that had power but would not open. It turned out the bore was wallowed out and it would stick in both the on and off position.
would heat from running affect the selenoid? But then the thing shut off after 20 seconds one morning when it was cold.:beatsme Guess I have to wait till it does it again.:Banghead and I know it will be at the worst possible moment.
Well it could be a combination of things. Loose wires interrupt power then when it does get power isn't able to open the valve. Keep in mind that this type of scenario is highly unlikely and strictly hypothetical. Only to give you and example of simple problems working together. Start looking at the simple things and then they should lead you to the answer. Heat vibration bad luck who knows.
If you knew my luck it is probable a combination of problems.
Not So Fast, on No Bacterium! You can get bacterium in bio-diesel. There are additives for that PRI-D make a real good one, so does Powers. We have always put BioBore in the big storage tanks and have switched to PRI-D. They are all on the net. http://www.priproducts.com/-------http://www.powerservice.com/----we use the stuff have not found any problems with them, NAPA also can get some of powers, but I get it off the web and save the tax. By the way I thought Europe use a 30% blend of bio-diesel and 70% dino-diesel? At least that's what Euro Bio-diesel folks have been saying for like 9 months?
http://www.powerservice.com/ Not sure that didn't post right?
While working today.the dam machine stumbled again When I was shutting down with the key it stumbled. I panicked and then restated it immediately by cranking it for about 15 seconds. It then ran the rest of the day fine ointhead ointhead ointhead Did not have time to look when it shut down as I had to keep the men working.:beatsme:beatsme
I have been using Power Service in the silver bottle and Stanadyne by now it's about 25% of each an and 50% diesel I know it did this Reduces visible exhaust emissions (HC, PM) up to 50% and reduces NOx and CO emissions up to 28% Dam machine always was pushing black smoke after I started using it that stopped.
Seemed to cut out when I switched it on. The key switch is going out tommorrow. Seems as I turn the ket counter clockwise to turn it off as soon as I start it stops. Tried wiggling the switch but it had no affect, also pulled the key in and out. :beatsme next will be the injection pump.
Died again today :Banghead I am really leaning towards injector pump. I cranked it for a minute with no results then cranked it with a shot of ether in the air cleaner and it picked up and then ran fine. :beatsme It has run fine for two days. Last time I had to start it today I said it probably won't start and sure as you know what it didn't.
:update Did not want to speak to soon but I think I found the problem. :Banghead:Banghead :ideaLike a dummy there seems to have been a very slight drip on the line out of the filter on my JD. i think it would drip then it would run for a few seconds after I let it sit and quit. Guess I didn't tighten it when I was doing the new lift pump. I had one problem which then I created another one with. I noticed a slightly clean spot on the engine :Banghead :jawdrop Scary part was I really had to tighten it to the point where I was holding my breathe Thanks for all the help. Hope I am not wrong but it has been running all week trouble free.
I hope you got it fixed too, Speedpup. It's little problems like these that can drive you nuts trying to find them.