Hello all. I have this dream of leaving my current construction management position to go out on my own, and start my own company. I have been performing CM work for about 5 years now. It was/is my first job after graduating from college. I am looking to perform projects like driveway tear outs and re-pours, light clearing, demolition, etc. I would like to shoot for getting into clearing small lots, excavation for house foundations, etc. etc. Then finally getting into purchasing land, and developing it on my own (dreams are good right?). This is where I am currently at with my business set up (I am currently performing side work utilizing): 1) 2000 f-350 dually (powerstroke) with a 14k PJ equipment trailer 2) Kobelco SK035-2 mini excavator (hydraulic thumb) 3) 1988 FL-70 Freightliner 6 yard single axle dump truck (Air Brakes and plumbed for trailer, Big cam 4 engine/350HP, tare weight of 15,800K) 4) JD 1020D tractor (Ballasted, FEL, 6' box blade, 6" grading blade, brush hog, etc. etc.) I am looking at getting the final pieces to my puzzle, and wanted the advice of all you gurus out there. -Skid steer. I am looking at an older Case 1840. But I would really like a tracked unit. I have read many good things on the 1840 skid steers but what do you all think? Tracked units are a lot of money. Is it worth it? Thoughts? Check out this local one? https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/hvo/d/marysville-skid-steer-1840/6950399688.html -Trailer for my dump truck. I was going to get a 10-12 ton trailer, but the more I read, the more I see people saying get a 20ton unit. I thought that a 20ton would be too much trailer for my truck? I would never be loading 32k onto a 20ton trailer behind my single axle dump, but the more I think/thought about it, it would be wonderful if i could put both my mini and a skid steer on the same trailer, and haul it with dumpy? I would think that I would need at least a 25' deck to fit both? Does anyone have any setup pictures? Thoughts? Here is a local 12ton I was looking at. https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/hvo/d/lakebay-1977-miller-equipment-trailer/6953205067.html -Larger excavator. I don't want to get a tandem dump truck (yet), so I would like to get a nice 17-18k machine that I could pull behind my dumpy, and haul it on the trailer I am looking to buy (12/20ton). What do you all think about this? It seems like a logical step? Should I look at getting just a larger mini? 12k machine? Any feedback would be great. Thank you all.
Looks like you've got a good bit of kit to start with. I personally own a tracked skidsteer. Ran a wheeled one for a while before, and it was totally fine. When I was shopping I demo'd a tracked machine and loved the stability and extra lift capacity. If you're doing a lot of work on pavement, or plan on doing snow, I'd go for a wheeled machine. I tow my skid and 5 ton on my 24ft 12 ton trailer. It's tight, but I got a screaming deal...Attachments and buckets and crap goes in the dump. Very happy with the setup and working in the city, I'm happy the trailer isn't longer. I'll likely be getting a tandem truck, larger shovel and a 20-30 ton trailer in the next year or two. The conclusion I came to is that I'd rather have 2 good setups than end up with a trailer that is a compromise for both trucks.
I don't have any suggestions just wanted to say good luck! Sounds like an exciting adventure!
As far as tags go if your buying new it's not a big step from a 15 ton to a 20 ton you can overload a 15 quicker than you think I would get a 20 ton and never need to update Your pretty iron rich there at the moment for not doing it full time If it were me I would be full time for a lite while before I get to head long into money on more equipment but that's just me 2 things I have learned stick to what your good at that's were you make the most money and the jobs that I get eager to do usually give me the most heartache
Wow!!! Thank you so much for the replies. I truly appreciate them. NepeanGC : That set up looks very very nice. Tinted windows in your mini??? BMW style!!! So to make it work, I am looking at a 24' long trailer minimum. That is really really good to know. And I totally agree with you. The trailer that I am going to buy/plan to buy should be able to work on a tandem dump truck if/when I get one. That makes logical sense and is a great idea. I am going to look for a nice used 20t. AzIron : I agree with you in terms of being "iron rich" for just me. The only things I can say is that I own everything outright, and all the equipment that I have acquired is used on my family's 6 acre farm as well, not just for me making money on side work. I have done tons of work to our place since my father passed 10 years ago (Merkel Cell Carcinoma). This is how I justify it (My mother thinks I am nuts lol). Check out my thread from TractorbyNet for what I have been tackling (post #95 is a good update): https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...72447-1969-jd-1020-diesel-10.html#post5498786 But you are right. Maybe I need to think about slowing my roll, and get more work under my belt. I also need to listen to you in terms of sticking to your forte. That is absolutely great advice. I mean we are talking a-lot of money (for me that is) to complete my so called plan. 1) used 20ton trailer (7-12k) 2) used skid steer, tracked or wheeled (10-40k) 3) used Midi excavator (10-50k)
I am going to look at this 1985 Eager Beaver unit tomorrow. Price seems to high from what I have seen others go for around the PNW. What do you all think? Opinions? Experiences? https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/trb/d/pacific-1985-eager-beaver-ton-2-axle/6960963972.html Thank you all in advance!!!
Never have been a fan of tilt trailers axels are to far forward The price doesn't seem to out of line for what I see around here
I think there's better skid steers than the 1840 you posted. Looks like it was pretty rusty in the floor boards and running new and worn out tires on the same side can be hard on the drive chains. It's better to run 2 new on one side and 2 worn on the other side. Better yet why not put 4 new tires on it? Looks like a rattle can paint job the wrong color and didn't properly mask everything or clean all the dirt off. Lots of used skid steers to look at though. I think start out with what you have and see how much work you can get before investing more money. Also look into insurance and licensing requirements. Lots of people would like to run their own business but it can be full of headaches too.
I love it ! You have a good team pairing up the John Deere loader tractor with the excavator . We do the same . Sent the Ford 4000 along with the excavator to demo out a concrete swimming pool for a customer . Now you see it … Now ya don't . Funny part is the old Ford 4000 don't care if he's making a seedbed for a corn field or grass in somebody's back yard . LOL !
I'm not a fan of tilt trailers either. Especially when you want to move multiple pieces or attachments. I'd look for a traditional tag with ramps. They tend to be more versatile.
Tilt trailers seem to be the go to in the northwest. You just don't see as many beavertails going down the road now days. The trailer in the photos is a rust bucket. If you go look at it make sure to check the tongue for dents and repair welding. I used to get people wanting to trade them in after they jack knifed them into the back of the rear duals and partially folded the tongue. I've also seen plenty where people welded longer tongues on without notifying the manufacturer which made them impossible to sell.
A friend of mine went out on his own after wrenching at the local CAT shop. His dad and uncle had a small excavating company but had gotten out of that and into the sand mine business. So he bought a mini ex , skid steer, pick up truck like yours and did very well digging for plumbers and home builders. He bought a tandem dump so he could haul in sand, spoils out etc. His wife got her CDL and she drove the tandem when he needed trucking. She was about 5 foot tall, 125 lbs soaking wet. I could always spot his truck with the mini driver lol. They did real well until the lost decade hit Michigan. He ended up OTR for 5-6 years, leave home and not return for 3 weeks . But their kids were out of the house and he was able to keep their acreage, house, shop, the truck and equipment.
PNW what sector of the market are you in with your construction management job - Residential, commercial, industrial, civil, ect? Can you leverage your contacts in the sector you work in to open up a contractor/subcontractor opportunity? In order to be successful it takes what you know and who you know to put it all together.
Dream or not if you love what you do you will be a success, was able to do just that most my life,not always easy but always full filling.
No tilt trailers for us either . The corporate office never would allow funding for " Ramps " on track equipment . Crawl up or off that trailer like ya own it . LMAO ! HeavyEquipmentForums
Hello all!!! Thank you so much for all of the replies. It is 100% greatly appreciated. All of your knowledge and experiences is information that is key to me understanding how I am going to execute my plan(dream). Ok, so the consensus is that I should stray away from tilt decks. Got it. I will look for a standard beaver tail tag along trailer. Used 20t are super expensive. I am going to have to look awhile, and save some more $. td25c : thank you for the pictures and the boost in confidence. My 69 1020d is an absolute beast. Yea its old, yea its not 4x4 or hydrostatic, but she gets the job done, and is built like a tank. Its only 39 PTO HP, but with the FEL and being ballasted she weighs over 7k. As you said, she doesnt care what she is working on, she just wants to work!!! Welder Dave : Yea, I agree. I didn't want to listen to my gut feeling, and just was going to buy to to get one. But you are right. It looks like someone cut corners in many respects. I didn't even take the time to go look at it. Will wait for the right one. A better one. I have looked into most everything in terms of insurance, bonding, licensing, etc. It will be a headache/expensive there is no doubt, but if its my operation, I will grind, and make it work. NepeanGC : Totally Agreed. How would I get my tractor off the trailer while the mini is still loaded up front? In theory, would you just leave the mini rigged? and just back the tractor off? Just wondering for my own knowledge/know how. John C. : This is absolutely great information. I would have never even looked for such things. People actually pull this stuff??? I would have only looked at structural integrity, wheel bearings, brakes, etc. Raildudes dad: That is a real scary story right there. I am all for hard work and overcoming challenges/obstacles, but sometimes it comes down to good timing and luck. Good timing is essentially luck, but you get what I am saying. The only thing I can say is that I live right in the middle of Tacoma and Seattle/Bellevue. Meaning my local market area is extremely "hot", and would be resilient to the national economic down turn if/when we experience the next "business cycle" valley. I know that doesn't mean we/I are immune, I simply see it as I will have more time to adapt. CM1995: I work in the federal construction market. Meaning we are a G.C., and perform heavy industrial type projects on Federal installations (Naval base(s), Army base(s), etc.). Projects range from new construction of seven-eight story structural steel buildings with fully integrated powered roof halves that open for top of building access (like T-Mobile Park in Seattle lol), to high pressure steam systems, to medium/high volt underground electrical distribution systems, to pier restoration which includes new piles, utility distribution systems, etc. etc. etc. We usually self perform all of the cast in place concrete work, some civil scopes, rebar installation, etc. I most def. think I could leverage who I know, and what I now know after 5 years, but I am not looking to perform federal work honestly. The red tape, and paperwork is just insane. I literally have to track how much common trash we export off site lol. The way I see it, the company has been teaching me how to run my company for the last 5 years. Not everything of course, but key aspects. 1. Estimating work (understanding the CSI master format, and how to actually create an estimate). This includes understanding the pre-construction phase, bond rates, risk assessment, etc. 2. Creating your project budget from your estimate bid. 3. Buying out sub-contractors. Verifying scopes of work, ensuring coverage, procurement schedule/lead time analysis, etc. 4. Reading plans and understanding specifications. Shop drawings, erection drawings, O&M(s), warranties, etc. etc. 5. Building and understanding schedules. Then taking your baseline schedule, and creating a schedule of values for owner billings. 6. Billing, cash flow analysis, AP/AR. 7. Creating RFI(s), submittals, Prime and sub-contract change orders. dozr : Thank you very much for the kind words. I would like to think that my father would say something similar to me. To sum it all up: I am going to continue to look for a nice beaver tail 20t trailer. I will also continue to look for a nice skid steer. It really depends on my capital funds. But I am still leaning towards getting an older wheel skid, and save/wait for a tracked unit. Maybe I can sell my kidney to my mom for some funds!!! Finally, I have another question. I tore into my mini over the last weekend to deal with the machine running hot. The temp gauge would slowly creep past dead center if I used the machine for a couple of hours non stop. It didn't matter the activity, it would steadily get hot (verified with my temp gun). So i ripped the radiator and oil cooler out. Flushed the radiator and cooler, and cleaned and cleaned the radiators cooling fins. Man, I have never seen a radiator so clogged. I also tore out the thermostat, and replaced it. After reassembly, the machine ran great and cool. While doing the maintenance, I came across reading about changing the slew/swing motor gear oil? I removed the three floor covers and exposed the motor. But I don't see a dipstick? Or any drain/fill plugs? Am I missing something? Also, I know the slew/swing motor gear that meshes against the large "sun gear" that turns the "house" needs to be lubricated with grease. Mine seemed to be greased up, but how much grease should be in there? From what I can see, the cavity definitely isn't "full" but where the gears mesh, there seems to be plenty of grease? Thank you all in advance!!!
As an outsider to any work like this it looks to me like you've got your stuff together PNW, well done!
10-4 - understand that. Federal work is not something one just walks into. Looks like you have a good foundation on estimating and pm which will serve you well in addition to hands on knowledge of how to actually produce a project in the field. A man that can work with his hands and his mind has no limits.
Hey all. Thank you very much both Aighead and CM1995 . I appreciate your kinds words. And that is for sure CM, not a market you just jump right in to. But, on what you said, I do pride myself in knowing how to put on both white and blue collars. And with that, goes respecting each "side" as to what they bring to making the plan all "work" out. But I am still on the hunt. Trailer and a skid steer are my top priorities. I was looking at this trailer. The trailer will obviously need a whole new deck, but it looks to have good bones. IDK. Trailer : https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/hvo/d/snohomish-trail-king-equipment-trailer/6964309582.html Another one : https://yakima.craigslist.org/hvo/d/yakima-1990-eager-beaver-10-ton/6941420350.html Some local skids : https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/hvo/d/bellevue-bobcat-743-skid-steer/6959432426.html https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/hvo/d/college-place-ct-315-deere-skid-steer/6968713158.html I am ok with older, and tinkering needed. Just as long as we aren't talking about blown head gaskets, or spun rod bearings, I am open to buying cheaper, and wrenching. All my stuff is old, and has needed massaging, can't afford the new stuff (yet ). What size skid steer is like a minimum? To be a good demo unit (concrete, light vegetation, etc.), ok at moving spoils, base course. I was thinking 5k is too small? Thank you all in advance.
A 1300lb cap. is about the smallest SS you'd want to go, usually around 5000lbs. operating weight and 5' wide. If you're going to be working in between houses or tight quarters is something to consider. When looking at a skid steer see if the local dealer has attachments you can rent for it. Then you can rent what you need for the job instead of having to buy it right off the bat.
I am a fan of Trail King but that one is over priced IMHO. The Eager Beaver looks to be a better deal, of course you need to look at them in person. A 763 Bobcat is a good machine, almost as hard to kill as a 743. Personally a 10K lb skid/CTL is the sweet spot of machines - big enough to handle a range of jobs and not to big to still pull with a 3/4 ton pickup. X2 on the rental aspect Dave said. Rental is a great tool to have in your arsenal.
That trailing is about 2500 to high maybe even 3 grand that eagar beaver looks decent price is not bad I think trail king makes solid trailers no matter the style but eager beaver made there names in tag trailers and they hold up well
Thank you PNW1020D for posting this . Was starting to think I was the only contractor on this forum that incorporates a farm tractor along with the " yellow Iron equipment " on job sites . LOL !
Thanks for all the replies everyone. Good community here, damn. Welder Dave : that is what I was thinking in my head as well. But you are totally correct in terms of where are you going to be working. What is your mainstay type of work. So for me, I dont need right now, a 10k skid steer to go out and help clear lots. I am thinking more now 7k-10k. That is why I really like that JD CT315, but that is a lot of money for me. Also, there is a local JD dealer that would def. be a good resource. These are the types of things I think about all the time. "What is my perfect equation, combination". What should I own, vs. what do I rent, etc. These must be calculated moves to truly make these type of investments pay off. Which you all know, but it just isn't as easy as one would think. It a complicated game. Thank you AZ and CM. These are the types of things that I really appreciate hearing. Real life based opinions. I think the trailer is over priced. If I had cash, I wonder if they would take less, etc. That's if it checks out and all. I am sure you all know how Craigslist can go. Lord, some people have no morals or ethics. I have had some horrible past experiences. How do you normally go about putting on new decking? Like what is the standard for attachment hardware and wood planking? 1/2" diameter bolts every 24" O.C.? Yea know what I mean. I 100% agree regarding the weight/size of a skid, and I am really glad I just asked for you all to think aloud. If you are going to buy, it should be versatile. I am thinking somewhere between 8-10k weight range the more and more I think about it. As you said, it works for my PJ 14k trailer, and the old stinky 7.3 dually to move it. Hell yea td25c . The old JD 1020d is much appreciated. Especially around our 6 acres. I am still making it better. I just did a ported hydraulic filter return for my FEL as an upgrade. The way the FEL was previously plumbed was not optimal. Routing the FEL control valve return oil to a ported filter cover puts return oil back into the hydraulic oil charge circuit much quicker than any other method of returning oil. This will give the fastest FEL reaction time (so says the TractorbyNet gurus). I also plan to add a hydraulic 3pt top link to run off of my rear aux. ports, and would like to add a third function for a grapple. The tractor is capable for many tasks still. From brush hogging, to fine grading. Before and after photos of the new FEL plumbing. I just brush hogged the pasture, so the old girl is dirty dirty. ---Original supply and return for the FEL--- ---Original hydraulic filter housing with port just capped off--- ---New--- As for my Kobelco mini, IDK if that is considered "yellow" iron? I thought that was only Chinese iron? But it sure seems to be well built, just leaky...
I love it , nice work on the hydro modifications on the JD 1020 D ! That tractor was built for the " long haul " No trouble codes flashing on that rig . If it quits it's more than likely out of fuel . LOL ! This is the " chain gang " staging " for a lake job . Minneapolis - Moline G-1000 breaks ground first with the disc tearing up the top soil . I can't believe people pay us to do this ? Had so much fun we should be paying them . LMAO!
Ain't that the truth. My grandpa had a fleet of 4020's when I was growing up. If they didn't start it was because someone ran them empty, or it was too cold to be working. Great machines and solid. Just not big enough though for today's market.
Well said colson04 !
Hey all!!! Man I had a busy busy weekend. I took on a side project that is large for me, and of course the Kobelco decided to **** out the lower oil cooler hose. It started as a drip, and quickly turned into a stream. I was able to get the demo/dirt work done, and brought the machine back to the barn to tear into it. It is currently torn down, and ready for the new parts. Here are some before and after photos of the project. It will be a new reinforced driveway, with walkways/flatwork, and a patio out back. I plan to pour on the 20th. Before: After:
I like the TEKs self drilling screws for the wood decking. You'll need to pre-drill the lumber as it speeds up the process and the self tapping screw will go right through the cross members. I've done many trailer re-decks this way. 2 screws per board per cross member. Depending on the size of your cross members I like to use a 3/16" x 4" wide piece of mild steel where the boards butt together at a cross member. Drill through the metal strap, deck board and into the crossmember - it helps to keep the butt ends of the board from coming loose from the cross member.
Idk why I can't edit my previous post?... After: ---------------------------------- While I was tearing into the machine, I wanted to get back on the topic of my slew motor, and the need to change the gear oil? I cracked this top Allen plug, and what looked to be hydraulic fluid came seeping out? I looked to my manuals, and there is no mention of a drain/fill plug or port? What do you all think? Didn't crack the bottom one open? -------------------------------- Man!!! That is so cool td25c. I really like that photo. And yes sir haha, definitely no CEL lights on this tractor.
Hello all. Been a little while. I have a general question. Has anyone welded "d-rings" onto their equipment? To ease in loading and chaining down? Or is that a big no no? Please let me know, and thank you all for your help.
We have D rings welded to the skid steer buckets and forks, not for chaining down per se but for picking or dragging small items on the job site.
Hey thank you so much for the response. Right, I have one, well a "hook and clasp" on my bucket for rigging and picking/setting items. But I wanted to weld on 4 "d-rings" onto the machine. 2 at the front somewhere, and 2 in the rear to chain off of. It seems that no one does this, so maybe I am wrong in thinking this would be a good idea.
I'm sure it can be done but you want an experienced welder to do it. I think the biggest issue would be if were to break there would be a BIG liability issue. There's no tie down points on your machine? How does the dealer tie them down?
Totally Dave. I have an experienced welder that would/could take care of it for me. Proper surface prep, etc. etc. But I am worried now that it may not be "worth it". As you stated, if it failed, what sort of recourse would I have?....if any. Now that you stated that, I need to look in the manual to see how they state to chain the machine down on a trailer for transport. I just crisscross two chains up front. They are attached to the trailer, and the two holes that are on the front blade (one on each end). I then crisscross two chain in the back. They are attached to the trailer, and the mini's "lower frame". I also put a 3k strap over the bucket just to be safe, and secure the boom.
I've seen then welded to the insides of the track frames on mid sized excavators that jump job sites all the time. They used the same types of D rings you see on equipment trailers.
Hey man.......I did the exact same thing as you are talking about. Two and a half years ago I quit a Project / Operations Management position with a large oil company. I'd been working for big oil in a management capacity for over 10 years. They paid me more money than I could spend. And I hated it. It was soul crushing work. I'm just not wired for corporate politics and the BS that comes with it. We pulled the pin and moved from TX to WA in July of 2017. I had all my business licencing and insurance in place before we left TX. I didn't have any equipment when we landed in WA........and no more paycheck. I've bought 90% of my equipment at auctions. First thing I picked up was a 6 yd dump and a 20 ton trailer. The truck was a 2001 International with a large bore cummins and 13 speed and the trailer was a trail king beaver tail. I paid $7000 for the truck and $5500 for the trailer. I sold the truck within 6 months to upgrade to a tandem axle dump. My first job was a 1000ft driveway. I took me about 6 million trips with that dinky little truck. Most guys start out doing site preps, driveways and land clearing. That's what I did too. Get your septic installers licence. Go meet the Salesman at the local high volume home builders (adair, hiline, lexar.....) he'll hand your card out to buyers and they'll call you for bids. Almost all of those home buyers only want deal with one guy so if you can do the underground and septic you'll get more jobs. Those full site prep gigs are worth anywhere from $30k-$60k+.....and they can easily be executed by one guy. Also go buy your local septic designer with a box of donuts and coffee. Those guys send me more jobs than I can even bid on. My first piece of real equipment that I bought was a 2006 Cat 430E IT backhoe......It wouldnt start at the auction yard (I had it running in 10 mins). I got a smoking deal on it......enough of a deal that even if i had to replace the engine I'd still make out ok. and it has every option you can order it with......4x4 cab, heat, A/C, hydraulic Couplers on both ends, auto-shift trans, ride control.....blah, blah, blah.....everything. I love that thing. For the first 6 months it was all I had, but it got me started. In the first year we bought a LTL9000 Tandem Dump Truck, 2001 JD 120, Case 450c Dozer, 2016 Cat 305.5, F250 Utility Truck, 10 ton small trailer, two double drum compactors and all the small junk you need to get going. Lazers, compactors, extra buckets, hoe-pac.... Most of my equipment is "well used". but we fix things when they break and take care of what we have. Aside from the 305.5 its also all paid for. We did $150k in business our first year....we'll do $500k this year, our second year. Half our work is private / homeowner work and the other half is Federal / Local government. I'm way, way, way happier now that I was in the corporate world. There's more stress but it's a different kind of stress and it doesn't really bother me. If I'm working at 9:00pm on a friday night it's because I chose to not because some ding dong in houston want to get his TPS reports by midnight. And every ounce of sweat that I give goes to building something I can leave to my kids.....even if they don't want it. I say pull the pin and jump in with both feet.
John C.: Yea you are totally right. I just checked out our Kobelco 140 we have on site, and it has rings welded both front and rear. Maybe I will add a 4"x4" plate as backing, then weld the D-ring onto that? I still like the idea just for ease of loading and unloading. Akmc5: WOW!!! That is quite the story, and seems quite analogous to my current situation. Minus the fact that I CAN spend what my company pays me as a P.M. HAHAHA. Your story and advice is greatly appreciated. I truly cannot thank you enough for taking the time and effort to write that. I have just a few more pieces (in terms of equipment) that I would like to buy before I make the dive. I am still set on getting a skid steer, and a 15/20t beaver tail trailer to tow behind dumpy. Auctions scare me though. I like to be able to read the seller. The person usually tells me all I need to know by their body language, etc. when looking to buy equipment/trailers. If I don't have a good feeling, I almost always walk. I will def. need to look into getting my license to install septic systems. That is a great idea, and advice. I also do know plenty of local engineering companies that I could work with, etc. You took the words right out of my mouth. I am all for working hard; blood, sweat, and tears, but I want it to be for something of my own. But honestly I am scared to fail/I will fail. I don't have any kids, as I am just a kid myself lol, and I am not married either, so its not like I am providing for me and my family, but still. I am worried I will fail.
And here are some photos (day of pour) of the project I posted about. All poured out, forms stripped, cleaned up. Finished.
Nice pour! I really like the tooled expansion joints in that last pic.
Thank you very much CM1995. The customer was very happy with the final product. On another note, check out this old skid steer. https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/hvo/d/tacoma-skid-steer-diesel-powered-runs/7008484358.html Thinking about going to look at it this weekend. What do you all think? Any experiences with Gehl? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance everyone!!!
I wouldn't be scared of that thing at all......prolly only has about 4 wires on the whole machine. some of the drivetrain bits might be hard to source if they go bad.....or maybe not. I'm not sure about that vintage. In my experience older equipment like that tends to develop leaks (sometimes alot of leaks).....but if you dont mind fixing little things like that it could be a great place to start if you're really bootstrapping. If you can get him down to 5k that equates to around 20 days of rental fees @ $250 a day.
Hey all. Hope everyone is doing well with what is going on, etc. I have made some recent steps to move forward with my plan, and follow the dream. I have gotten my state business license, and have gone about getting my local cities licenses as well. I am in the process of getting bonded and insured, and I will then apply for my state GC license. It is alot of paperwork, and money up front, but I have run into more situations recently that people want to do business with a company. That entails insurance, etc. etc. I hope to get this all buttoned up soon. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ With that being said, here is my equipment update. Not so much for my business plan, but for the family farm, and who knows really. I have the chance to get this for free. I know free doesn't mean take it, but any knowledge or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Brutally honest, things to look for, and test? The holy internet say this thing weighs almost 18k? Is that true? From my research, this is what I have heard about these old girls but I am no expert!!! Clearly... 1. Horrible to work on. Others have said smurfs must have built these at the factory due to their unfriendly working environments. 2.Transmission case cracks can happen due to their poor structural design. 3.Wet clutches. If glazed over it can be quite expensive and labor intensive to repair. 4. This is a "C" model, so it should have a standard clutch and mechanical transmission. I read about some "shift on the fly models" being troublesome and expensive to fix? 5. As I have shown, I have a 1020D with a 3 cylinder diesel, and this old thing has essentially the exact same motor, but a 4 cylinder. Same as the big big brother of my 1020D, the 4020, and I am sure many other john applications.