Recent new brake parts on GMC Top Kick 1989 model, except front drums. I don't have tools to precicely measure out of round. Using a sliding rule, I can measure no out of round. It squeels first 1/2 mile a fresh squeek for 1/4 revolution each revolution. I've got to think it's out of round. Drove 30 miles yesterday, squeek went away. braking hard, it pulls right. Gunite # 3411, I haven't found a source. Any advice?
New shoes have they been bedded to the drum ie heat cycle break in
Machine shop, chuck it turn it, have had to do that with antique.
Turning wrenches on trucks years ago, had some that even after replacing shoes still had brake issues. Drums looked good. Wasn’t until new drums and shoes replaced together that it was better. I attributed it to the drums being worn and not matched to the circle of the friction surface of the new shoes. Started replacing drums more often. Check the old shoes and the lining is likely worn uneven. New lining will have spots that have no wear. Even after new shoes were ‘broke in’ to the used drums, stopping power seemed inadequate. Disc brakes eliminate that issue.
I've called around trying to find a shop willing to turn them. Haven't yet found anyone. As I recall an unrelated manual for a Dodge Power wagon gives instruction to match the shoes to the radius of the drums. Is that my problem?
It's called arcing shoe lining, a thing of the past. The machine shops are either to busy or lazy, take your pick, I'll take lazy. Can be turned on a engine lathe rather easily.
More like don’t want the liability!
Past new shoes or pads required breaking in ride the brakes get'em hot first trip. Dodge manual is probably saying
Is your lathe too small? Lathes are like excavators, need one of each size for any job that might come up.
A bit has developed: The brake can on that wheel proved to be rusty. All the brake parts had been replaced within the last 5 years, 7000 miles. When we discovered this can obviously 36 years old, it became the prime suspect. I can't say how we were certain it was new, but clearly is not. Bolted a new 20 can on this afternoon, The evil Nazis with salt trucks were out this afternoon, I haven't tried it out.
Lathe is plenty big enough. I discovered a problem in the lathe. Shaft is scored at the headstock bearing, it's got .004" wobble. I feel it needs to be turned itself, then a new babbit bearing poured. I haven't found anyone willing to fix it. Truing the shaft I feel is manageable, Pouring babbit seems a lost skill.
We have the same feelings for road salt! They salted here too, but I think the snow was already melted before they went out.
That's frustrating. I wouldn't think 4 thousandths would be noticeable driving on the average road in Vermont. Maybe on the smoother portions of RT 7.
New doesn't mean it hasn't sat on shelf forgotten right on got it fixed
Ford model A & engine rea rebuild shop my help with the babbit bearing info
I don't have an inside micrometer that big. I've convinced myself the drum must be out of round, now I wonder. It locks up first starting out. Usually have to back up a few inches, then it squeels 1/4 revolution the first short distance. I now suspect the brake can is sticking, or spring broken. All this time I had missed the obvious, the can hadn't been replaced when other brake parts were replaced. This one is rusty, crusty, ugly. I make every effort to not drive it in salt, yesterday was a major salt event. Lake Champlain & the Connecticut River are going to have sharks one day.
And no rain forecast to wash it away! Champ will appreciate the added variety to his diet!
RE: inside mic. If you have a caliper with the depth measurement leg use the entire caliper. You don't care about the dimension, only the variation in the dimension. Old method for lathe with worn slap out spindle bearings was to run the lathe in reverse on heavier cuts. In heavy cuts the workpiece wants to climb the tool. In reverse the workpiece and spindle are forced to the bottom of the babbit, the same direction gravity is already holding it.
I'll try that. I have a smaller lathe, but bigger turnings it'd be nice.
Take off drum and mount backwards and put a lug nut or to in, spin drum and get out the grinder and lightly surface the drum reinstall
So, there is an option B. I have alot of old stuff, and even if the drum was available, they usually charge 400-500 for dayton drums, or more. At that price, get the inner and outter bearing numbers, wheel seal number and shoe width, get hub pilot hubs, new drums and shoes and its often the same price as the dayton drum believe it or not. CONMET makes preloaded hubs that have everything including studs and are economical. Get the numbers and call your local fleetpride or truckpro
Willie B---what is the rating for max weight on that steer axle?
Thank you! Metal nameplate in the door jamb says 9000, I've misplaced the build sheet that was glued to the inside of the glove compartment, if I recall it mentioned heavy duty front & rear. I guess this refers only to springs. Cab & chassis was specified by E-One, a builder of fire trucks. It's titled as 1990, but I believe the title was created after the fire truck was complete, I think it is a 1989 chassis. GMC Top Kick 700
Ok, that more than likely will change any ideas of any Conmet hubs as mentioned above. Those are mainly for 12,000 lb plus axles.
Yeah, when I research Medium Duty, it takes me to 1500 series. Heavy duty takes me to 2500 series.