I bought the crane about 3 months ago and have spent most weekends working on leaks (resealed all the outriggers), new fluids, filters and a "minor" repair on the torque converter. I enjoy this kind of work (as I sit at a desk for a living) and thought I'd post a few pictures as she comes along. This past weekend, I started to clean her up a bit with a hot pressure washer. As the grease is caked on, I did a once over on all but the under carriage, then focused on the boom. My intention is to work from the top down in preparation to prime then paint. Any suggestions as I go along would be much appreciated.:usa
Kudos for fixing up an old 150A. Odd machine, built well, but some parts are a PITA to work on, and one needs to be an octopus to work all the levers. Back in the day a favorite rig for millwrights and plant workers because they have a small boom tip head compared to other hydrocranes. Does it have a Detroit or an International gasser?
It's a Detroit 453N. When I have her rev'd up, smokes like a coal train, sounds like no other. It's fantastic. I agree, getting to a lot of the filters was a trick (I have a small scar on my chin from the 1/2"-13 x 9" bolt dropping from the Trans filter) along with resealing the outriggers (had to remove two of them to get the pistons out....very little wiggle room, even plasma cut my own gland wrench from 1/2" steel plate). Here's a couple pics of the cylinders:
Yep, I've pulled those outrigger cylinders before myself. :yup Just in case you don't know, don't use multgrade (15W/40) oil in that Detroit, they don't like it. You need to use a straight SAE 40 weight oil with sulfated ash content of 1.0% or less. Delo 100 SAE 40 meets the specs best (Delo 400 SAE 40 does not), or Mobil Delvac 1240 SAE 40 is a second choice.
Thank you. I ordered 5 gallons back in April as I was about to change the oil with what I had on hand (15w-40.....I have two Army trucks with NHC 250's.....always have ALOT of 15w-40 on hand) and decided to pause, do some research on two stroke diesels....and saw they need low ash straight 40. THE STUFF'S NOT CHEAP. Pulling those outriggers is something. I used a Bobcat, engine hoist, pry bars and bunch of BIG wrenches to get at it. When I opened it up, the one socket I didn't have was the 1 13/16" to remove the piston from the rod. A trip to Tractor Supply, $10 , Big breaker bar......resealed, back on the machine shortly thereafter. I've gone over most of the machine, and I'm really impressed with how well built it is. This was before CNC, robotic welding, laser cutting, etc. You can really see the skill of the craftsmen. I hope to do it justice while refurbishing.
That oil isn't cheap because the market demand isn't there with modern engines that use multigrade, the old "supply/demand" concept. Alas, it's what those old engines require. Probably one of the worst components on the old 150A Galion is the brake hydrobooster, very unusual hydrobooster/brake master cylinder unit, and very expensive to replace. Not worst because of design, but because of age, stuff don't last forever, and its unique design pretty much makes it only available from OEM.
Looks like a fun project. For myself I've run these enough to basically turnaround and walk the other way when I see one.
Hopefully when I'm done, you'll ask to come over and break her in. I actually have looked at putting a red dot system on the back of the cab (no room on top)....still researching, but would like to help compensate for the F-16 like cockpit (made for 5'9" and under) and the workout you get when running this beauty.
Did a couple days work getting the boom sections ready for paint. I sprayed a good 2 gallons of Purple power, scrubbed with a brush after letting sit for about 30 minutes, then hot pressure washed again. After letting it dry, I used a wire brush on an angle grinder (my arms still hurt), then cleaned off with a bunch of rags and acetone (it's amazing how stubborn old grease can be). Today I masked the crowd cylinder, primed, and sat back for a minute at just how much work (fun) this is. Lots more to go.
I found another leak....and this one is a doosy! I believe the internal boom telescoping cylinder needs "attention". Anyone ever been through this? Idea on cost? The boom would have to be taken apart to get at this.
Cleaned and primed the rims this past week, sent out for new tires (16 Ply Firestones).......wallet is now empty (holy cow....not like changing a set on the wife's car). Power washed a portion of the boom.......finding a good bit of rust under the 3 layers of paint. Having fun!!
Looks like a fun project. Rick
When you are done you can always come over and 'clean up ' my 90A. She runs great. Just rebuilt the Detroit 453 engine in her. Here is a picture of it when we bought it 3 years ago. No need for a new picture as much hasn't changed except for the engine rebuild. I have the engine as well as the service manual if you need it I have it in digital format. Cheers :beerchug Ayrhead
Oh you guys must have gotten ahold of machines that were yard birds. Meaning that they stayed in a warehouse setting. I remember taking my first door off of a gallion, yes I used the counterweight to do it. you gotta love looking over your shoulder while it is hotter than the blazes of hell on a job site. I laugh about it now. Yes I hate all neck breakers. Here a while back I was on a broderson for two years. I should of sued for disability. You know a guy has to eat so I stuck it out. HAHAHAHA
Yeppers...she was a yard bird but runs great and does what I need it to do. We keep it on site and have a man bucket on the end of it and trim our 80 foot trees with it:tong
Please post or e-mail the Detroit 453 manuals (e-mail to: [email protected] ). After I clean her up, I'd like to rebuild the engine (this winter). Thank you!!!! Hey, what works well to get the grease off is a good spray of Purple Power, some elbow grease, then a hot pressure washer. I just finished the cleaning the boom this weekend, going to try for prime over the 4th.
Mine was used in a junk yard......leaked from every spot possible when I got her. I'm down to the internal boom cylinder(s) (that one is going to be a tough fix).....then I'm good. The tires were so bad, I thought one was going to give out every time I moved her (just replaced them about a week ago). Having fun!
Oh......did you go with Alpine Green or "crane" paint after rebuilding the 453?
Did a decent amount of work over the past few days. Cleaned, wire brushed, acetone'd the main boom section down to the pedestal......though with the amount of surface rust, I used two gallons of Ospho to convert the rust (after much wire brushing). In one of the pictures, you can see the counterweight looks black on a side from rust conversion. I've never used Ospho (phosphoric acid), but it states you can prime after without any additional prep. I'll probably pressure wash one more time to play it safe.
Looking good BobCatBob :thumbsup Thats going to be a handy rigg when you get done restoring it.
We did the engine in the Alpine Green Runs like a top now. :canada Ayrhead
Any pics of that installed in the Galion Ayrhead? Would like to see how that looks as I go forward. Hey, thanks for the 453 manual!!
I have to say it again guys, just being a voice for the old Detroits, DO NOT use multi-grade 15W/40 in those engines.
Nice work ! wish I had taken more pics of my stuff to post
Finished priming the boom and pedestal this weekend. I learned that Ospho needs to be wire brushed after application to remove any built up residue (pretty much everything that was sprayed). Having fun!
Back a few years my boss got in a paint everything mode . I bet I went thru a 55 gallon drums worth of cat yellow . Bought it straight from the cat dealer and was cheaper than anything from the automotive suppliers . Even said right on the can " No need for primer " from the cat site . Pure, lead free industrial enamel suitable for interior or exterior use on earthmoving, construction and material handling equipment, trucks, engines, machinery, and metal buildings Formulated to produce a finish that sets up in minutes, is tack-free in a few hours, and dries overnight to a hard film Very resistant to fading, chalking, cracking, and chipping Can be applied directly to either wood or metal without using a primer https://commerce.cat.com/en/catcorp/shop-supplies/paints/4C-6129
I'm using Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer to catch any surface rust I might of missed (or the Ospho didn't get to). The finish paint is a good oil based paint.......should go on with one coat (fingers crossed).
Well....life gets in the way. Family is first, then the hobbies. It's been a while since I posted an update (or spent more than an hour or so on the Galion)......so got to it this weekend. I realized the engine needs a basic overhaul (if there is such a thing) do to leaks at the main seals. I took the back tires off and stripped the engine compartment. I have no idea what engine stand will hold this beast, but likely to place on blocks to start with. Having fun!
Looking GOOD!! When we did our rebuild we did an 'in frame rebuild' My boys did it so i don't know all the details, but it was sufficient so that there are no leaks and the engine runs GREAT now. Way to go!!:thumbsup Harry:beerchug
Mega kudos from me, BobCatBob! I'm working on an old restoration project myself that I'm blogging in the Shop Talk section. We sound like similar people....pencil operators having a blast restoring some beat up old machines I am about to get into the clean/repaint phase and I am super interested in your experience with the phosphoric acid. How did that work out compared to all the grinding? How did it do with residual paint/grease? Can you just wash it off onto the ground? I'm working on a Gradall and the nooks and crannies thing has me really intimidated when I think of grinding/sanding. I am considering sandblasting, but I don't have the facilities to do that easily (working in borrowed shop space). I'll definitely be keeping an eye on your thread! PS....my condolences on the tires. I got a quote on TWO flotation tires for the front of my 4x4 carrier and I would have sworn the guy was pulling my leg. He wasn't.
The Ospho worked very well. I used it after completely cleaning, degreasing, wire brushing, then acetoning the surface.......it was the last step before priming. To remove all the rust without sandblasting is impossible......just to much on these old machines (and a lot of surface area). Ospho will take the remaining surface rust and convert it to an inert layer. I haven't seen rust re-appear on any surface (yet.....it's been about 5 months). The key is a clean, ready to paint surface before applying(I used a garden sprayer....worked really well .....cost $10). Here is a link that will offer a bt more information: http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm Good luck with your refurbish. It's a ton of elbow grease......but worth it to see "Old Iron" come back to life.
Had a fun weekend!! Pulled the motor (that's my Father running his "Billcat", as he's Bill and I'm Bob). Didn't think the Bobcat would lift the 1200 Lb's....but it did. Once pulled, cleaned the engine bay with Hot pressure washer (built a plastic tent to help with the over spray in the pole barn) and started taking stock of what needs to be replaced (motor mounts, hoses, etc.). I'll wire brush and acetone the bay this upcomming weekend, Ospho, then prime if time allows. Though might pop the engine open to see if the cylinders/liners are good (as the Hobb's meter shows 4200 hours.......and I'm thinking it's really 14,200 hours on this 40 year old beauty). Having fun!!
One of our customers has two 150fa's. We all hate working on them lol. One has been torn down in our shop for close to a year now, if it's not parts availability issues it's the customer not returning our calls. Damn those control valves!
Good luck with that!!! Engine bays are a bear!
I'll be working on the engine over the winter, then prepare the engine bay for paint. Here's a few pic's of the disassembled engine on the stand. Having fun!
Hi Ayrhead, I just ran into this thread and I am also working on a Hyster 360 18 Ton crane which is very similar to the Galion that is being discussed. This crane also has a 453 and I just discovered that the ports around the cylinder sleeves are blown out and I need to do a complete overhaul. Spits out enormous quantities of coolant and oil out the exhaust! The problem is I will have to pull the entire engine and hydraulic pump assembly out of the frame to do it. Could I purchase a download of your service and engine manuals? Or if you could share some brotherly love and send me a digital download, I would truly appreciate it.. please email to [email protected] Thanks and Happy Holidays
I know where there 1 of these,that been setting for sometime. Ithink it runs,whats it worth?
A little over scrap if it was like mine: everything leaks, hoses cracked, tires bald and frayed.....and rusted through out. I'd say about $5k ....a little more if running.
You May have this info but while I was going thru my stack of stuff I found this and thought of you
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Thank you Tiny!! I have most of the manuals (service, operating, parts)....but they're 40+ years old, faded, etc. These images are top notch! I'll print and color and use them going forward. Thanks as always! p.s. I'm just about to start putting the Detroit 453N back together......I've had the head and injectors rebuilt, new oil pump, I rebuilt the blower and refurbished accessories.....alpine green! Should have it back in the engine bay in a couple months.
Good progress , good to hear
Engine is almost ready!! I'll need to build an engine stand, hook everything up......and let her run for a bit to make sure she's good t go. I painted the mounting brackets the paint I'll be using on the crane.....old Cat yellow......and it looks great! Having fun!
If you keep this up she'll be showroom stock .
Tiny, for some reason that picture you posted of the crane extended brought a flashback in my head of a very similar machine with "Pettibone" written on it. Am I hallucinating or were they a manufacturer of them as well?
You remember correctly , bridge side had one and I moved a couple around town when called on . I'll start another thread , think I have some info on them
These were excellent machines in their days. When I started in the crane business we 3 of the running. I learned a lot that I know today about how to work and fix cranes from these old monsters. We had the two stroke Detroit engines in them, beautiful sound, if I entered a construction site I didn't need to ask where my crane is, you just had to listen where the sound came from. Unfortunately for them they really liked to leak hydraulic oil, you will fix one pipe and tomorrow the one next to him will start leaking. That was actually the death of them here with us. The Japanese cranes was introduced to our market, KATO , TADANO and KOBELCO and that was the end of oil leaks, and that was what the customers wanted. They were mainly used on civil construction sites and petrochemical sites here in South Africa and there is still a few working on small sites but mainly yard cranes now. I also still have some parts for them like starters, alternators, one or two cylinders, boom section, door and I think even that horrible spring tensioner that kept the tension on the tele cylinder pipes. But all in all only good memories of them, as I said they taught me what a crane is about, even though it was a small crane comparing with what we are operating with today. Enjoy your project.
One step closer......engine is rebuilt and running. It took about 4 months, but runs like a top now (and I learned a hell of alot about 2 stroke diesels along the way). Here's a video of it's 1st run (it may take a minute to upload) Having fun!
Sounds good to me
This one might work better - http://s837.photobucket.com/user/DD453/media/453NStartupafterrebuild_zps49802aed.mp4.html
It's been a year since I acquired this old beaut, and realized there are 3 issues I'll be up against going forward. 1. Main boom cylinders (two in parallel) that likely need to be resealed. 2. Counterweight support that appears to have been re-welded on (will get picture soon to show).....does not look like OEM welds. 3. Right rear outrigger frame is bent (attached picture) All three of these may make this rebuild a no-go if I seek certification (at least the counterweight re-weld and outrigger frame.....seals I can do, but with alot of effort and $$$). I'm doing this for the "hobby" aspect.....and having fun. Though, I'm about $12k into this project....and have yet to replace all the hoses, reseal the boom cylinders. I take my labor at $0.00 as it''s "therapy" doing the grunt work and learning along the way. Am I pissing into the wind thinking this will be worth what I put into it? Is certification a pipe dream? Thanks as always gents!
When I 1st saw this project I wondered if it was a keeper . That would have been the only way I saw to justify the amount of work and money it takes to do a build like this . I hope if your plan is to sell the machine after your are done works out well for you . Honestly if your not careful you can have a fortune tied up in a machine that will not pay for itself . As far as the welding goes if you find a good welder and you may be that welder , Repairs can be made . Most of the time on late model machines the manufacturer is contacted for a repair procedure . As long as the directions are followed there should be no reason to flunk an inspection . As far as what the machine is worth it might help to look at auctions and sales of used machines to get a general idea
Thanks Tiny. I contacted an OSHA approved certification company and they'll inspect for about $1,000. I'll continue to refurbish the machine and then have them take a look at it. It's a hobby and what ever I put into it is worth the cost of time and money...few hobbies ever have a financial reward at the end, just the pleasure of itself. If so, I have a 12' C-130 with four chainsaw engines hanging from garage ceiling to sell (and that was about 1000 hours of build time). Having fun!
I'd love to see a thread on that C-130!!
Here's a video I posted years ago (they're actually 4 stroke engines, but put out about what chainsaw engine does thrust wise at 10,000RPM.....around 2.8 HP each). This was where my discretionary cash used to go.....until I started crashing them (and it's not if, but when). This hobby....refurbishing old equipment.....is cheaper. It's rebuilt as a static model (crashed in 2007), repainted as "Fat Albert". http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgN7toNH3ng Off topic (not crane related) but at heart......guys need hobbies to keep us sane.
Good vid , Buddy of mine flying much smaller models and he had too many crashes and too many hrs in them to keep it up . He told me that if he kept flying his wife was going shoot him
The engine bay is done!! I was able to get most of the hardened grease off, but some of it would not come off short of a hammer and chisel (no kidding).....so did the best I could. Here's a few pics of the old beast with a new look:
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Ain't that purty!!!!
Thanks Gents! Where do you guys buy your cable from? Type and rating for 1/2" to 9/16" (looks like what the crane currently has....I need to measure). Can I buy it pre-lubed or need to do that after? Thank you Bob p.s. A few more parts to clean, prime and paint (radiator , torque converter, PTO shaft)......and will be able to get the "new" engine back into the crane. Having fun!
Grab an open end wrench , Best quickest way to find the diameter of IWRC cable . All the cable the company used came from a supplier in KC that sold strictly to cranes . Had Slings and lifting devices also . Probably not the cheap way to go . Any thing bought for cranes was prelubed .
Thanks tiny. I checked with CraneParts in Houston......they've provided me with most of the parts for the refurbish, but will likely try in Milwaukee or Chicago for pre-lubed. I tackled one of the most difficult "to-do" items on the list this past weekend: replacing the rubber suspension pads between frame and axle. The bolts were rusted in the pad sleeves, so had to cut each bolt twice to remove the pad. After that, I ended up "digging" out the rubber pads from their seating holes.......and let me tell you, my arms got a fantastic workout! This was by far the most difficult part yet, but got four pads out......four to go. Also, put some paint on the tires, radiator, torque converter.......few more items and she goes back together! Having fun!
A few more...
Oh....note on the above pics how my Saw-Zaw changed colors from Red to Yellow......the red (Harbor Freight) lasted about 2 cuts and burnt out......the yellow (Dewalt) cut through the remaining 6 cuts like a champ (I used 9" metal cutting blades....went through 6 blades) And a picture of the carnage....
Bob , I don't believe you are scared of anything . Tackled that like a pro
Thanks Tiny. I actually called a crane mechanic (works on a lot of the old Galions in the Houston Area) on this one. After I bought the replacement pads, bolts, castellated nuts.....I spoke with him for advice and his statement was "it's going to be a bear". I also took stock of what I had removed weight wise: engine, torque converter, radiator, etc; and now I was going to drop the weight of the axle from the frame (at least one side). Was/is there a risk of any "movement" of the crane? He mentioned he had never had a problem with the outriggers out (which I set before removing the engine). As a side note, he mentioned there is a safety valve in the outriggers in case of a line break or loss of pressure. I thought about changing the hoses in the engine bay, but was weary of removing the latent pressure to the outriggers (though will likely change after the engine is installed, tires back on..... to eliminate any risk). Having fun!
Got the suspension pads in on both sides this past weekend.....and adding the finishing touches before installing the Detroit 453. I upgraded the transmission filter after finding one that can handle 270psi (the cartridge type was a pain in the a** to change, spin on's are so much easier). I had to modify the old bracket by welding on an adapter plate.....worked like a charm. Having fun!
Engine is in!!! A little help from my father (he's a steady hand...or shall I say foot...on the Bobcat Pedals) squeezing the engine back into the engine bay. Installed the torque converter, hydraulic lines, torque converter drive shaft (rebuilt this past winter), PTO to hydraulic pump, ran wires to the sending units from the cab (temp, oil pressure, tachometer). A few more items to do and it will be time to test her out. Having fun!
Half way there!
Nice to see it really starting to shape up. Thanks for keeping us updated. You have been doing a bang up job.
Thanks old iron. I'm hoping to get the boom and pedestal painted this summer......maybe the front this fall (doing this on weekends/vacation days). The cab will need a lot of work (hydraulic valves are leaking onto the floor). I believe I'll be able to remove the cab top and have access to all of the controls. Likely to be winter before I get to that. Until then, I made a temporary gauge box for the gauges that aren't working (the new ones don't fit the old panel; I'll fab a new panel this winter)
You have done showroom quality work so far . Happy to see this machine getting this kind of attention
Thanks Tiny. Its a great project bringing this old yard bird back to life. I just welded up and installed the muffler yesterday, so decided this morning to start the engine break in schedule. The schedule calls for 1800 Rpm at 20 hp loading, then 2200 rpm at 87 hp loading, 2800 rpm at 85 hp loading...then an hour and a half at 2800 rpm with no load. I made it about 1/2 way through the 2200 rpm loading and blew a hose on the power steering system. What I didn't expect was how HOT the hydraulic fluid was at the tank....had to be 200 degrees. As I'm new to this, and there is no cooling system for hydraulics......is this normal when running a high load for 20+ minutes? Thank you Bob
How did you put the load on the engine?
I drove the crane around on a flat surface at 1800 RPM, then a slight incline at 2200 RPM. Not very scientific, but you could "feel" the load on the engine when going up the incline. A dyno would be the way to go.....but out on the farm, this is as good as I could come up with. I thought about using the hoist.... lifting a specific weight...though this would not allow for a constant load. The specs call for: 1800 RPM, 10 minutes, 20 hp loading 2200 RPM, 30 minutes, 87 HP loading 2800 RPM, 30 minutes, 85 HP loading 2800 RPM, 90 Minutes, 95% rated capacity loading (I calculated about 130HP, therefore running it wide open while driving up a hill) I gotta say, when I ran it at 2200 RPM for about 20 minutes (when the steering hose burst and "armoralled" my inner front left tire)......it sounded great, gauges looked good.....though when I got out to check the hose...and placed my hand up against the hydraulic tank....it was HOT! No smoke coming out the breather cap, but probably around 200 degrees. There is no cooling system for the hydraulics, and maybe this is normal under "load"....but as a new guy at this, didn't expect a hot 100 gallon tank of hydraulic fluid. I plan on flushing the system again (good time to do it, the new hose will require me to drain the tank anyhow)...as the fluid is murkish in color (milky). I hope I don't have to flush again after this.....hydraulic fluid ain't cheap. Having fun! Bob
I've kinda been watching this thread and you are doing great work! Wanna tackle a TLB next???? Rick
HaHa.....I've got a ways to go. Actually.....when I'm done with this, I'll probably look for an old John Deere or Case TLB. I considered a payloader......but after dealing with 450 LB tires, the next project is likely to be "lighter"...haha.
if your hyd fluid level is correct, running the engine at high speed for twenty minutes with no hydraulic operations performed should not overheat the oil unless you have something blocking hydraulic flow and causing the hyd oil to go thru a relief valve which will raise heat quickly. check for a function bottomed or some line obstruction to cause this. these machines use an open center hyd system which doesn't iild a lot of heat if its just circulating with no load applied from hyd function.
Gee and here I was willing to let you barrow my JCB 3CIII! Rick
I found the brake hydrobooster capped off and disconnected....that might be the issue (not sure). I'll cycle through all of the hydraulics and see if anything sounds/feels unusual (been having a problem with the crowd 2nd stage cylinders.....see if it lies there). Thank yu
I replaced the steering hose today, replaced the hydraulic fluid in the tank ( about 55 gallons of "milk" with AW 32).. And finished the 2200 rpm break in on the engine. Now....I'll take her up to 2800 rpm to finish the beak in schedule. I spoke with my contact at Contractors Crane in Houston.....he mentioned the hydro tank will get hot. I took a reading after running it today....180.... Not too bad ( though it did start to steam out the breather vent...water still in the system as it's a 120 gallons in the whole circuit, tank is about 65 gallon capacity)
I found a NOS hydro booster for the brake system on Epay and installed this past weekend......and then did the unthinkable: stripped a hose connection due to misalignment. I truly know what "neck breaker" means when working on one of these old beauts. I have no idea how the designers planned on anyone getting at the braking system for repair (laying on your back with hydraulic fluid running down....praying a wrench doesn't slip from hand to mouth). I shall forever appreciate the mechanics who work on these. Yes....I'm still having fun, just a bit sore from using muscles that last saw action climbing trees when I was 10.
Hydro booster fixed! The hardest part was working on your back with big wrenches, in a tight space....but brakes and steering work like new. The steering wheel turns with one finger, brakes stop the crane on a dime ( scary fast...have to get used to not standing on them as I had without the booster). Having fun!
Really cool. I love old machinery and would love to have the space and time to restore something like that. The evil part of my brain keeps thinking that someday I will find an old crane just to play with. Rick
Flushed the brake system this weekend (DOT 3) using a home built power bleeder. I couldn't imagine doing this..... with the seat out, and asking anyone to press the pedal while filling the reservoir through the access hole. It worked well. I used a garden sprayer and about $15 of harbor freight air hose connections. The hose connection to the reservoir was done by drilling and tapping a 1/8-27NPT hole in the top of the reservoir cap, screwing in a brass NPT tube, then attaching a rubber hose from the garden sprayer. I pressurized the system using the harbor freight paint gun regulator connected to my compressor (set at about 25psi...anything over I was worried about the garden sprayer letting loose). Having fun!
Thanks Rick. I sit at a desk for a living.....and keep my sanity by turning wrenches on the weekends. I own a hobby farm (rent the land out to a local farmer) and use the pole barns for myself. It's completely different from what any of my piers do for fun....and frankly their eyes glaze over when I explain any of what I've posted in here. It's been a long term dream to be doing this....and hope I can do this in retirement. It's the challenge of taking what others see as junk and refurbishing to like new that I really enjoy. It was the rebuilding of a 3.5 hp Briggs and Stratton engine when I was 11 that hooked me......just a little bigger now.
Painted the boom and pedestal over the past month......one more coat to go. I plan on removing the cab to re-do the hydraulics (couple levers leaking)......and clean /paint over the winter. I'll do the front end at the same time with the tires off. Having fun!
It is looking good bobcatbob. You are doing a first rate job on that crane. It is going to end up better than new?
It's good to see people doing stuff like this as a form or recreation. I'm retired Army and although I was a tanker I spent a lot of my off duty time turning wrenches, at first when young just to keep my own car running then as my skills got pretty good as a form of relaxation helping young married guys who couldn't afford to pay someone. After I retired I worked several years as a mechanic. Now I've stated farming trying to stay out of debt. Turning wrenches isn't as much fun as it was. I've always wanted a dozer. I think if I got one I could get hooked on wrenching again because I'd love to restore one. But right now I need another tractor so the dozer idea is on hold. I spent my time yesterday repairing a broken manure spreader, a loaded manure spreader. I do use my TLB to clean up manure packs and load the spreader. What was amazing about the Army was The depot level rebuilds that they did. When we drew rebuilt tanks from Anderson Army Depot they actually had fewer faults than new tanks fresh from the factory floor. That makes Old Iron's comment amusing. Most often the faults were simply missing hardware. Like a missing washer, no real major faults. I do know a couple of guys who have restored farm tractors that are actually better than new. Rick
Thanks guys. I'm doing this on days off/weekends......it's really no different than rebuilding a car from the ground up (just heavier, and a bit more $). My neighbors/friends keep asking what I'll do with it when done.....my answer: "not sure, but it'll lift 30,000 Lbs". My wife thinks I'm reliving my Tonka truck days in the sandbox.....don't we all? I would LOVE to rebuild a dozer (I actually have been watching the auctions to see what a used D7 or D8 goes for)......but now we're talking HEAVY. I agree, the Army does a fantastic job when rebuilding their vehicles (I own an M925 that I picked up from GL in Sparta WI). The fresh rebuilds go for double to triple the price at auctions.....they're that good.
shorty before I retired from the Army I got an old model 400 Bobcat. The engine was weak so I took it to Ft Riley with me and rebuilt the engine in the automotive craft shop. People were asking me what I wanted that for. I kept telling them that I still liked my toys but was too old to get on my hand and knees in a sandbox. Rick
Moved the Galion into the pole barn for the winter. I plan to refurbish the cab and front end....and brakes/drums if time allows. The past couple weekends, the cab was taken off, all the gauges and wiring were removed (for 40+ year old wiring.....it was in incredibly good shape...I don't think I could buy that quality today) and inspected what valves, connecting rods/ends need replacing. Having fun!
Why did you flip it upside down for? Easy access?:tong Quite a project. Rick
Hi Rick That's the Iphone pic. When downloaded into your computer, windows automatically flips it for you, but when posting a photo, it post with it's original image (which you can never tell its upside down until posted). I use a shortcut by opening photo's with Windows Paint, saving the file as a .jpg, then posting.
Get any further with it? Rick
When you are ready for the D8 give me a shout. Got a 2U D8 in the shed. 1953. The main starts in a few feet with a pull when warm out. Pony is bad. Have another newly rebuilt pony in shed ready to swap them out. Installed clutch last summer. Tracks are new(measure 99%) with new segmented sprockets. CCU on back. Straight. I got two many toys and this one takes a lot of room. Will drive it on your trailer for $5,500. Have been following your current project with interest. It neat to see someone with the dedication to do a project like that and do it right. Good luck.
Pressure washed the front half of the crane this weekend. I had "tented" the area to prevent overspray, but using a hot pressure washer steamed up the space so much, I had to switch to cold water (works, but takes about 2-3 times as long). I had considered removing the cab floor/control valves/steering column/etc. to clean separately.....and after much thought, it would be a monumental task......so the pressure washer came out. It ended up working almost as well.....it's using a tooth brush to clean that gets old real quick. I prepped the fuel tank and battery/storage box last weekend along with the right front. I found a FANTASTIC stripper called CitrusStrip (sold at home depot). It's better in my opinion than anything I've used to date. With a clean surface, apply generously, let sit overnight (I heated up the pole barn to 60 degrees for it to work).....and 40+ year old paint (many layers) came up with a scraper. The beauty with the product is there are no caustic fumes (can use indoors with no smell other than orange).....I was VERY impressed (see picture). After, I cleaned with acetone, applied a layer of Ospho to convert any rust I didn't catch.......and ready for primer now. Coming along! Bob
Lets see some pictures! I'm not ready yet (my wife would hang me by the short ones if I came home with another "stray" project).
just picked up the cab/doors from our local sandblaster......did a fantastic job. I also had new glass cut for the cab.......the old glass was pitted something awful. Having fun!
You sure you don't want a 1206 Farmall or JCB 3CIII to practice on???? I won't even charge rent!!! The JBC would have to be done by say late March but the 1206 would have to be done real quick, can't do without it! Rick
You can use wood shavings to help get the stripper off and to get into odd shaped places. Jointer shavings or pine bedding for small animals works great. Just grab it by the handfull and rub into the stripper. Absorbs the stripper and is abrasive.
Hello all, This is bobcatbob's twin brother. Here just to say "yes I think he is nuts for taking on this project", but it's also really cool. This all harken's back to our childhood growing up around my grandpa's 18 ton Grove's. That said my hope is this will all lead me being able to convince my brother that it would be a "really good" idea to buy a military tank next!
Be sure and tell him he needs to hang on to the crane , Some of those tank parts are heavy :thumbsup
Too bad you can't buy a real tank anymore. Bet you wouldn't be real happy with just how much fuel them things go through. Rick
found this site and your restore the other day .you are doing a fine job on it. I have one that I work on for a friend . and I need to fine some info. it is suppose to be an150ont have the ser, # rite now but would like to get a manual on the crane if I can find one .it broke the ft steering box the other day .if you can help me wit any info thanks. [email protected]
I might be able to help if it's a 150a model. Do you know what year? Post a few pictures of the steering box and I'll check my manual.
per ser#6214 I was told it is an 73/74 year I will get some picture tomorrow don't know if I can post them are not.not avery good computer person
talk him into a tank retriever.we had one in nam big beast we were told it could pull two tanks with the tracks off at 60 mph. had a rolls gas eng. n it
I've got the steering section out of the manual, what info do you need? If not in a hurry, I've got an electronic version on another computer I could e-mail next week.
My hard copy manual is a 1973/1974......here's a few pic's I took out of the steering section to help:
need to know how it meters the oil it turns fine to the right and sometime to the left .most of the time it wont turn to the left without a lot of effort my address is [email protected]
There is an adjusting screw on the outside of the unit with a lock nut (like the idle adjusting screw on the Detroit 453). I initially had a problem with my steering (intermittent), and it turned out that someone had taken the lines from the brakes and capped them off.....wasn't getting the full flow I needed.
Took the past week off for a little R&R and got a decent amount of work done. I finished stripping the paint, tented up the front end, and primed. I used a positive airflow system using an external fan to pull air from the outside (yes, it's 2 degrees here...COLD) and tented one of the pole barn windows in the enclosure for outflow. I used a set of cheapy home depot furnace filters over the window.....worked like a charm (had to change them out twice due to paint build up). I turned the heat off for extra safety while painting (had very little leakage from tent, no over spray visible) and used a Dupont paint suit, N95 respirator, and goggles. I've attached a few pics...and an extra one of my "snowblower" I used to get to the pole barn. It is so cold....the air intake froze up, had to thaw her out. Having fun! Stay warm!
looking good have not been back by the mach. yet,what are you stripping the paint with
I've been using Citristrip , http://www.homedepot.com/p/Citristr...and-Varnish-Stripping-Gel-HCG73803T/100141801 . It's safer than Methalyene Chloride when working indoors with little to no ventilation, strips off old paint completely (multiple layers). I found if you brush it on liberally with a paint brush (literally gobbing it on), let sit overnight at about 60 degrees.....it will loosen 3 layers of oil based paint to the point it almost falls off. It's great stuff. I spent about $100, 2+ gallons to strip the front end of the crane. After, I scraped off any areas that were not completely stripped, wire brushed everything, then acetone'd to remove any stripper that didn't come off. Once done, I applied Oshpo to convert any rust I missed, then wire brushed and acetone'd again prior to prime.
Check your e-mail, I hope the .pdf files help.
All I can say is it's working. Man, that's stripping down to bare metal! Nice work.
Thanks Willie. I think you helped me when I joined the forum a few years ago....repaired a bunch of issues with my BobCat 753 (still runs like a top).
One thing you can use to help get the stripper off is cedar shavings like is used for rabbit bedding. Some people use shavings from a planer. Just grab the bedding material by the handful and rub. It is absorbent and abrasive. It will get into places you can't get to easily any other way.
Thank you. I've found that a wire brush gets most of it off (I typically wait a day or two until it's completely dry)......if wet, wood shavings is a great idea.
Yeah, that is definitely a wet paint stripper technique. Works very well for furniture. You can wrap a hand full of wood shavings around a dowel or other shape that would be VERY frustrating with any type of brush. You never know, you may yet run into a an odd shape where this will come in handy.
Finished painting the front end! I sanded the primer, acetone'd and put down two coats of paint (turned up the heat in the pole barn to 70 degrees, waited 24 hours before applying 2nd coat....needed it as paint is made for one coat). I'll have a few areas under the dash to airbrush, but the hard part is done. Next steps are to replace all the rubber valve boots, lever handles, steering wheel, hydraulic hoses to the steering cylinders and then start on the wiring. Having fun!
Gawd I've sit in one of those cabs a number of times, you pretty much have to be an octopus to run an old 150.
The crane is painted!! I have a few odds and ends to touch up, but it's 99% there. As I go along with rebuilding this beauty, I decided to do a series of upgrades. Mutli battery systems are always a challenge as you need to charge each battery independently (when running a parallel set up) so as to not cook a battery. I considered using a 1300 CCA monster battery , but when adding up the current and future costs, it's much cheaper to use two in parallel and you get more CCA's in the end. To charge each battery independently, I added a Cole Hersee battery isolator and a solenoid that will add the second battery for starting (run the crane off 1 battery when in use). The isolator will charge each battery to it's max charge and stop once complete. The alternator is a 100amp, so it can spilt the charge at 50amps per when needed. To back this up, if the crane sits idle for a few months, I added a 2watt solar panel for each battery with desulphurization (I use these on my trucks, add 4-5 years to the batteries life). Here's a few pics. Having fun!
Really Looking GOOD!!! You are gonna need some brewskies when you are finished this project...:drinkup. So....when you're all done... do mind me asking what you ae going to do with the 150?:beatsme
I look it as more like playing a piano,a lot going on!! Bob, in the picture where your showing off your solar chargers I spotted the famous (infamous??) plugs that hide the grease fittings for the slew ring. They are on the top of the boom pedestal or shipper where it bolts to the slew ring (1 on each side). Many experienced ops were clueless of these!! I was called out a few times to troubleshoot erratic swinging, first thing I did was pop the caps and look at the fittings. One still had little plastic caps on the fittings from the factory- it had never been greased in ten years!! I would recommend changing the oil in your swing box, can pretty much guarantee its never been changed. It will take on a little water through the years. Good job w/ the rebuild!
Thank Kat and Ayrhead. I'm not sure what I'll do with it, but it'll lift 30,000 Lbs......I'll find a use (my neighbors have already been asking when it'll be ready). I might sell it to make room for another project. Who knows.....I enjoy working on it and bringing it back to it's original (or close to) state........and upgrading where I can. I'll check under the fitting caps.....I have not greased those!! Once complete with the "winter" work, I'll change all the 80-90 oil's (pumpkins, hoist gearbox, planetary's, etc) and grease all the fittings. I've greased most of the visible fittings, but the slew gear is likely one I would of missed, thank you. There are still a couple of big items I need to tackle - replace the crowd cylinder hoses (the two on the outside of the boom connected to the spring motor), work on crowd cylinder leak(s).....might be in the valve body or worse, the cylinder seals themselves......and replace the wire (have a new spool ready to go). In between, a bunch of odds and ends. I look at this as a hobby.......always something new and interesting to do with this old beauty.
Bob, Another Galion tip- the recoil spring set up on the side of the boom (Galion calls it a gleason reel) has two broken spring indicators that screw into it. Check to make sure one of them isn't popped up indicating a broken spring. If their good take them both out and run the boom out. Retract the boom back in stopping at several spots and drip a little oil in the holes with a squirt oil can. It'll keep the springs lubed. Check out the condition of both the indicators. Eye up the recoil cable also and the bogie sheave set up that travels up and down the boom. If the cable snaps all H.......breaks loose. Its a good system compared to the garage door spring set up that was used previously.
Thanks Kat. I'll give it a once over while replacing the hose (the prior owner had replaced the OEM hose with regular hydraulic hose and it popped off the boggie sheave). The cable looks good and has plenty of tension (so much that it had little to no flex when I grabbed it). The entire Gleason reel housing has been sealed with what looks like caulk (prior owner may have filled it with oil). It's one of those "odds and ends" that I'll be doing this summer. When I get up on the counterweight to work on the crowd cylinder valve body, I'm also going to replace the hoist brake lining and give it a once over (I had to tighten it up when a 5,000 Lb load wasn't holding).
Looking very good. Rick
Thanks Rick Ever buy that bulldozer?
Well, before putting the cab back together and running the wiring......I realized there are some leaks that need to be addressed. The control valves in the cab have rubber bellow covers and some have been leaking (they look original).....replaced all of them (8)....and like most task with these old beauts, they don't like change and make it hard. I never believed a snap ring could be so difficult to put back on, but after a little "engineering"....got the new ones on. I also had hydraulic fluid coming up through the boom control cable housing as well as the crowd cable housing......so decided to replace all the cables, o-rings and fittings that go to the main hydraulic manifold. It took two weekends, but got er done. A bit more to go underneath the crane (emergency brake, leaking bushings on the transmission, U-joints on the front wheel drive, etc.). Doing this in a heated pole barn when it's 5 degrees outside is the way to go (vs. outside when I bought the old beaut 2 years ago). Having fun!
A few more
Nice work Bob, One of the first galions I had to work on the operator was bitching about all the oil in the cab. He said it was coming out of one of the control cables, I told him he was full of........ I checked it out. Never saw a cable hook direct into a spool before! What a freakin mess to repair in the field, This thing was filthy underneath. Hard to clean up valve body, didn't have a vacuum setup to hold the oil back Grrrrrr! What a hassle for a little bitty seal. Should have picked machine up on end w/ 41 ringer to fix!
Thanks Kat I left a lot out for brevity, but yes......what a nightmare. The hardest part was reaching around the back of the manifold with a wide flat screw driver, lining it up with the slot in the spool by feel, then tightening the 1/2-13 nut with an open end wrench at a 60 degree angle on the front of the spool (as the cover only allows you to get the wrench in there at a high angle)......I only hope I got it tight enough ... when I applied force, the screw driver would pop out or the wrench would slip.....it was a bear. I've said it before.....I haven't used muscles since climbing trees when I was 10, like I've used working on this old beauty. It's a great work out. I'm still at work underneath.....finding more "to do's" than I had planned, but trying to get the crane back to OEM standards or better.
Not yet. I'm getting a new knee the first part of APR and that has everything on hold for right now. Rick
Good luck with the knee Rick. Most seem to turn out real good for folks. Do as the Doc's say and you will be back on the tractors in no time flat.
Problem with that is I'm going to be laid up for spring tillage and planting! I've got it covered but it's going to drive me up the wall! I may be back on a tractor for first haying. Rick
Got a good deal done over the past couple weekends. As I'm rewiring the entire machine, adding lights (LED front and work lights, side lights, rear lights and a bunch of Whelen hazard lights)....along with new gauges and a switch box for all......I decided to "build" a wiring harness using Delphi connectors. Let me tell you......I'm am now an expert with a soldering iron! After creating the harness (used 14 gauge throughout), Bussman Fuse/Relay box...I installed it into the cab along with a 200 amp relay to power off the ignition switch. I'm pretty good with wiring....but for anyone who has done this, the constant question you keep asking..."what am I missing". I was also able to replace the broken parking brake along with a new cable and pads. I ended up using three weld nuts to hold the handle on as they were blind holes (metal wasn't thick enough to hold a thread). Mig Welding is a skill I have yet to master......luckily the nuts are hidden behind the handle.....lots of weld marks where I thought the wire was in the right place....and it wasn't. Future welds will be done with stick (easier for me). Pulled the front and rear drive shafts to replace the U joints.......just waiting for the weather to change to add some paint prior to installing the new joints. Having fun!
Thanks for the update! Still waiting for you to pick up my TLB to practice on ! I won't even charge you rent!!!:drinkup Rick
If I pick it up, you won't get it back! Hey, when you going in for the knee? My mother just had both done over the past year......best thing she ever did.
Tomorrow morning. My MIL had both hers done and says the same thing. Won't get it back????? What's up with that???? Rick
It will end up being rebuilt to OEM standards, then used to dig a lake on our property........about 3 years before it's returned. Good luck with the surgery.
Still working on rewiring the machine (using flexshrink and techflex to shield the wire bundles) and still have a bit to go. I decided to replace the gauge panel to add VDO gauges and LED indicator lights, etc........and found a great company for this: www.frontpanelexpress.com . They have a simple cad program you download for free, add your specific dimensions....and shazaam....your panel is ordered. Takes about a week to receive, but the pricing is right and looks great (attached photo is 1/8" powder coated aluminum panel with engraved identification labels...filled in with black). I ordered a whole series of identification plates for the levers, engine stop (detroit diesel....no kill switch), emergency engine stop, etc. We'll see how they install using rivets. Having fun!
wonderful work done on this one...
Installed the gauges as well as riveted in a few identification plates for the levers. The id plates really came out well......amazing what you can accomplish via computer these days.
That's fantastic! I may have to check that out. And yes I'm up and about as much as I can be. You should watch a youtube vid on total knee replacement. It's brutal! I know I would have healed fasted is they hadn't boned out half my leg! Still gotta have help with about everything other than walking. Doc says about a year for full recovery? And no contact sports for life. Really? At my age you gotta tell me no contact sports? Anyway aside from going nuts and being bored life is good. I'm really enjoying seeing your progress on this. Rick
Glad to hear your surgery went well! You'll be able to lift tractor tires when back to 100% in a few weeks.
Busy with little league over the past few weeks, but got the gauge panel wired up and installed.
WoW,,, really nice work !!!
Very nice! Rick
Only a young one here (born 88') But what is the hazard pattern change switch?
That will be used for the Whalen LED hazard lights. They have a couple dozen flash patterns......the switch will allow you to set all of them to the same pattern (I'll be adding about 12 to the crane). They're the same ones you see on tow trucks/emergency vehicles......really cool. Once installed, I'll create a short video.
Hi there, we are currently putting a 150A back together in our shop, ( I may add that the person that took it apart no longer works with us) and I was wondering if you had links to a parts breakdown for the boom. The cylinders have been redone however I have a box of parts that need fitting before I reinstall the booms and cylinders. I need to make sure it isn't going to leak before I put the booms back in. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a section in my manual that details exactly that. I don't have access to it right now, but private message me, I'll make a copy and send it over the next week.
To check the rebuilt cylinders, use the boom cylinder hoses (if you have them off the Gleason reel)....should be long enough to reach the cylinders on the ground.
Great work Bob. Your attention to detail is awesome. Really like all of your ID plates.
Thank you. I picked those up from the same company that did the gauge panel.....anodized 6061 aluminum (or powder coat if you want)......ordered online, turned out better than expected.
Hi Bob I can't seem to message you for some reason I can give you an email on here that I don't use much if that will help.
Hi Jim Just sent you an e-mail, respond and I'll get info out.
Hi Jim I just sent the dual crowd cylinder repair/installation manual via FED EX express. It's a detailed (with pictures) step by step manual (34 pages total). If you need more, I have a parts manual with schematics. As a side note, this is one of the remaining mechanical repairs I need to do myself. How hard was it to get the boom out to remove the cylinders? Approximate weight?
Happy 4th of July! Got a bit done over the past few days, and now, the painting is done (front tires, drive shafts, shift linkage rods). Mounted the rear LED lights along with 4 Whelen LED strobe hazzrd lights (will have 10 on the machine when done). Having fun!
Bob I need to strip a Galion 150 FA boom, pipe broke and i can't retract the boom can you give me any advice
Pictures of what broke? Have you tried lifting the boom to see if it will retract with valve open?
I just saw this thread, I must say that you have a great project going! I am in a somewhat similar boat with my Grove RT-60S.
Bob it is one of the 2 Boom cylinder hoses running to the inside cylinder, the two running over the sheave wheel to the 2 cylinder inside the boom. I did try to lift the boom but the safety valve is keeping the cylinder from retracting. Will Post pictures had rain today.
I know those hoses well....I have two new ones in my pole barn on the floor (I need to work on my internal cylinders, as well as the valve block). That's a real pickle..... as you can't get to the valve block with the boom extended (which means there is no back pressure to offset the safety valve). Get me a picture or two.....I'll call a friend (Galion Mechanic) and ask him. If the split end is outside of the boom, you can cut and add a hydraulic coupling for a temporary fix ....retract and put a new hose on (they're not expensive....I believed mine was $168/hose). As a side note, the hoses are different than regular hyrdraulic hoses....they stretch.
I spoke with my parts supplier this morning (Phil at Contractors Crane co , 713-695-7162, http://www.contractorscraneco.com/ ). 1. Retract the 1st section 2. Climb up on the back of the boom, just in front of the winch, there is an access area to get at the hoses (on the valve block/diverter valve). Prior to removing hoses, make sure their is no tension from the Gleeson real (spring motor the two hoses ride on)....then remove both hoses (if replacing one, might as well replace both......hoses are pretty cheap all considering). Use the hoses specifically made for this application....as a regular hydraulic hose will stretch over time and pop off the sheeve). 3. Call Phil at Contractors.....they'll send the hoses they sent me (they ship all over the world). Good people, extremely knowledgeable on these machines (have your serial number ready, located on floor left of cab seat). Bob
Thank you for your help Bob. I took the 2 front sections of the boom out, Got to the valve and the broken hose. Will have new hoses in the morning (special hose grade). Here it is not cheap R 1800.00 plus tax each. Thanks for all the help.
My pleasure.
The lights are installed!! I went with Rigid Industries LED lights and Whelen Hazard lights. I'll upload a video once I get her outside and in the dark.
I am wondering. You tore this crane down and made it look great. But are you also going through hydraulics (cylinders, hoses) and rebuilding/replacing them?
Yes, most of them have been replaced/repaired.....everything leaked when I saved the crane from the junkyard. Go through some of the previous posts (2+ years now)......even did an out of frame engine rebuild (all but crankshaft replaced).
I tell'ya Bob, that is one awesome looking project you've undertaken and it looks absolutely great! Just curious, what inspired you to go into such a detailed restoration?
Short answer: can't do anything 1/2 ass'd Long answer: I bought it from a local who was going to scrap it. I figured I would do some basic work on it to use on our farm....as the price was right. Like any "repair" , one thing leads to another ....and then you go "Hell with it, lets do it right". As someone who can't sit in front of a TV, with a good case of A.D.D.....a challenge like this is what makes it worth while. Almost everything on the machine needed work/attention.......and I have a few items left (boom diverter valve and cylinders, boom hoses, a few steering hoses, inspection of brakes (they work, but check the lining/drums anyhow))......and finish assembly of refurbished items. The joy is in standing back, opening a beverage and stating: I did that!
I am very impressed. I am wondering, do you think that it will perform as good as new? I have a similar vintage Grove RT-60S. I do not care that much how it looks, but I want to make sure that it is safe and reliable.
I am very impressed, you definitely deserve to sit back and enjoy whatever frosty adult beverage you desire after an accomplishment such as that! Kudos to you Bob for a job well done!! :thumbsup
I concur. Cable, brakes (swing, winch, wheels, etc), full inspection on everything (god knows if it's been rolled, welded, stressed just before failure).......then an OSHA inspection. I'll have that done when finished......I would feel horrible if I sold it and missed something.
Thanks Sea Mac. I like your location description. OH...is that a mini MD 500 in your avatar?
You're welcome Bob, yes, you have to dig a little to decipher my location and no, that is a Guimbal Cabri G2 helicopter, superior in many ways to a mini MD500 and definitely not a kit. I am impatiently waiting for my "little bird" to arrive -summer 2017- only two so far in the US, Guimbal only received FAA certification earlier this year although they've been whirling about in other parts of the planet for over a decade. A closer look will divulge a fenestron tail-rotor and 3-blade bearingless main. It'll AR like no other chopper and letting loose the cyclic it'll damn near fly itself as if AP were engaged. Impressively safe, economical and forgiving to fly...
I have never had such an inspection. I called our Grove dealer and he said an inspection would be something like $1,000. Plus I am sure that I would fail this inspection for any kind of reason. My question is, are there some mobile crane mechanics who can take a look at my crane and identify problems that are not so expensive? Just to get me started towards making this crane secure? I do not care as much about OSHA inspections, as such, because I do not plan on using this crane in construction. But I do want it to be a generally safe machine.
I would call your local crane service provider and ask for help. Do you have a full set of manuals? Those are a great start to understanding what to test and how to check it. OH....as a side note.....do your run a military info site? I was searching for a M116A2 trailer cover and a Igorchudov.com popped up.
I have a "free military manuals" website at http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/ All manuals there are free to download and re-share as you see fit. I also have a collection of all other manuals at igor.chudov.com, and some pages with descriptions of my projects there as well, you may have come across that.
Cab is almost done! Seat, steering wheel and the "cab"........almost ready to turn the key. I installed the drive shafts over the past two weekends (painted, installed new u joints) along with all the cab lever connections. Having fun! Included a picture of my shop mate.
My shop mate.
Got her fired up over the weekend!! I initially turned the key to start her (been 9 months since run), crane is completely re-wired.......and nothing. No clicking, nothing. I opened up the new fuse box....and ignition fuse was blown. I initially though something was wired wrong, but then remembered a heavier gauge wire went from ignition switch to starter solenoid. I realized at that moment there was no relay in the circuit (prior and current). I had one lying around, added it into the circuit......engine started immediately (phew). About 15 seconds after starting, one of the few remaining hoses that needs to be replaced let go (of course). With any project like this, it's always a planning and solution game. Having fun!
LOL old hoses will get you every time! I went and looked at an old TD9 IH with a loader it. Man was the owner out of his mind! Stuck engine, sat for over 15 years, track frozen and adjusters at the limit. Guys demanding 4K. I told him what he can do with it........ Rick
Looks like you got lucky and the hose did not blow oil all over the new paint.
Well done BobCatBob ! Words don't justify your ambition & total rebuild on the crane .:salute Nice color on the crane ....... I think you got the perfect match light green paint on the Detroit Bro ! :thumbsup
Hi Bob your I found the reason the hoses on my crane broke the Gleason reels springs broke, I could repaired one and got it working .... do you know of any ware I can buy 2 new springs, also OEM hose the set I cot here is not the right hoses even if the supplier is trying to convince me it is the right stuff. Regards Sam
You could try to contact them at: http://www.hubbell-gleason.com/engprod/hosereels.html
Thanks TD25, Rick and , Old Iron
Call Jake or Phil at Crane Contractors Co. in Houston, TX : (800) 736-2381 Give them your model number (model # is on the floor, left of your seat). They ship internationally and have been fantastic. I've bought every part I've used from them (except the engine overhaul and a master cylinder booster). Their prices are good, technical help excellent. I bought the boom hoses from them and yes, they are completely different than a normal hydraulic hose (and not that expensive). They'll have the OEM springs for the gleeson real.
Bob still watching this with great interest. Quick update on my stuff. I threw in the towel on farming. Been doing grandpa's daycare for a 2 yo and 2 8 yo grand daughters. There was getting to be a conflict so farming got cut way back. Keeping most of the equipment to include the backhoe but got rid of the live stock and I'm letting a nephew farm most of the ground. On the good side I may be picking up an old dozer. Waiting now for another HEF member to get back to me on the details. Who knows, I may actually got to the point of restoring something! Rick
Outstanding! Let me know what you get...will be a good project to follow myself.
Bob I did buy that dozer, old D4 Cat. Soon as I figure out how to post pictures from windows 10 I'll put one up. Rick
Fantastic! Rebuild ? If so, start a thread.
Going to do some work with it first but yea, I think I'm going to rebuild/restore it. Maybe start late next summer. It's a 1947 D4 7U Serial number is very low 7U18. Rick
Busy with family, though got the tires back on, steering wheel, interior lights.....and the cab. Having fun! A few pictures, videos (hyperlinks at bottom) http://vid837.photobucket.com/albums/zz295/DD453/IMG_2620_zpsuwij53n6.mp4 http://vid837.photobucket.com/albums/zz295/DD453/IMG_2625_zpstupyxfzi.mp4 http://vid837.photobucket.com/albums/zz295/DD453/IMG_2626_zpsyeidvcik.mp4
Spectacular work!
Thanks Mike. I see your near me. If I need help taking apart the boom to rebuild the cylinders...you do that? We may have crossed paths on this about a year ago.
Looks great! Fantastic job! Rick
Thanks Rick I built a work platform (actually my retired father did, he's a solid carpenter) to work on the diverter valve behind the boom/replace the hoses. He'll add some stairs and guard rails......a lot cheaper than renting a man lift to get up and down. I've worked up on the boom when painting it last summer.....always makes me a little nervous that high up with no easy tie off. Having fun!
I think I got the leak!! I've been dreading the likely fact the crowd cylinders need to be rebuilt (a monsterous task), so I figured I would work on the crowd cylinder diverter valve and see if there might be an issue. After getting it out of the machine and inspecting......one of the three o-rings was missing on the mounting face!!! I cleaned her up, reinstalled.....no leak!!! WOW.......very lucky on this one. My father built a platform to do this work (would of been very difficult and sketchy without) ....so replaced all the hoses while up there (including the crowd cylinder hoses). The following pictures show the completed work, but missed a picture of the come-a-long I used on the hose trolly. The Gleeson reel maintains a decent amount of tension on the crowd hoses.....the trick was getting it back far enough to slip the new hoses over the trolly. I ended up using a strap wrapped around the winch and one wrapped around the hose trolly....with a come along between the two. Worked like a charm. I was going to wind the gleeson reel with a spanner and breaker bar instead (last picture), but after one rotation, standing on a ladder......too dangerous if that thing let go (safety 1st!). Having Fun!
Looks very nice. I am rebuilding various parts of my crane as I go along. I try to keep it in a working shape so that I can use it meanwhile. Much of the air brake system needs a rebuild, s due to air leaks and old rubber. That is relatively easy to do, as similar parts are used in heavy duty trucks and are easy to come by. I will replace the brake chambers, already replaced the parking brake valve. Some other master valve under the crane (modulating?) looks to be recently replaced. Some hydraulics also needs repair, such as outrigger cylinders which I want to do preventatively. After I am done with that I will try to paint it, although not as thoroughly as you. This crane is for making money, but I want to make sure that it looks good in front of people. I admire what you have done to the looks of that Galion.
Thanks Ichudov How are you transporting your Grove to jobs? Did you need a operators license on those? I've told my neighbors I can help them, but for no pay as I don't have certification nor insurance....it's a hobby. Hey, I read a post you had on a bubble level......I'm in process of doing the same myself. I plan on leveling the machine using the turntable at the base of the pedestal as it's zero point ..making sure that is dead nuts on.....then shimming the bubble level on a flat surface in the cab. The only problem is the cab is mounted on rubber isolators, so will have to check for repeatability first.
I have a lowboy semi trailer, and this is how I transport this crane.
You have all the toys! Very cool.
So, what are the specs of this galion, what is the boom length and max capacity?
60' four part boom, 15 Ton, power shift transmission, 453N Detroit Diesel...old school.
How did you remove the old paint so well?
I cleaned the surface with a hot pressure washer, used purple power to get any residual grease off, then wire brushed the surface for flaking paint. Once clean, I applied citrus strip : http://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Pa...paint+remover?Ntx=mode+matchpartialmax&NCNI-5 This stuff worked like magic!! The trick was applying a heavy coat (with a paint brush), let it sit overnight in 50-60 degree weather, then scrape it off. It removed the majority of the paint........with about 10% that needed a second coat or wire brush off. Citrus strip does not put off a toxic fume, nor does it burn your skin (I used rubber gloves to play it safe)......absolutely great stuff!
Bob as always you do nice work! Rick
I wish that I had a detroit instead of Cummins... Thanks for sharing on paint removal.
Got her out last night, ran the boom fully up and out.....held with maybe a foot of drop, no leaks! Time to put the new cable on! Having fun! P.s posting this with an iPad, no idea how to post pictures with this thing
Thanks Rick. When are we going to see some pictures of that dozer?
The Detroit is a bulletproof engine. The downside is the Oil slobbering from the breather tubes (They call them DripTroits)....and the cold blooded nature of the engine.....have to use an oil or coolant heater when it goes below freezing.
A lot of those detroits have a tank for those drip tubes. A small air tank with a drain valve works perfectly. Drain the slobber tank at every oil change. I've never been around one that didn't leak oil from multiple locations tho. I have heard if you put a 210 degree thermostat in it helps with the oil leaking but I don't know. I always thought a Detroit was one of the better cold starting engines. If the rack and valves are set right it always seemed they fired like a scared rabbit.
One thing that seems to help with the oil leaks and oil usage is running the proper oil. Here's a little snippet out of the operators manual: 3. For continuous high temperature operation (over 200 F or 94 C coolant out), the use of an SAE grade 50 lubricant in DDC two-stroke cycle Series 53, 71 and 92 engines is required. SAE grade 50 lubricants are also required for all Series 149 engines where ambient temperatures are above 95 F (35 C). 4. At ambient temperatures below freezing (32 F or 0 C), sufficient starter cranking speed may not be achieved to start the engine with SAE 40 grade oils. Where starting aids are not available or at very cold temperatures (0 F to -25 F or -18 C to -32 C) even if starting aids are available, the use of multigrade SAE 15W-40 or monograde lubricant SAE 30 will improve startability. These lubricants must possess a High Temperature – High Shear Rate Viscosity (measured by ASTM D 4741 or equivalent) of 3.70 cP minimum. These oils must be replaced with monograde SAE 40 lubricants as soon as ambient conditions permit. Do not use multigrade or SAE 30 grade lubricants in two-stroke cycle marine engines or Series 149 under any circumstances. 5. At lower ambient temperatures where sufficient starter cranking speed may not be achieved to start the engine with SAE 50 grade oils, SAE grade 40 oils may be used. SAE 50 grade oils are not recommended below 45 F (7 C) ambient. Basically you need a diesel engine oil specifically for a two-stroke diesel. These oils have the API Service Category CF-II. Yes, 40 wt. is correct, but SAE 40 CF-II. Delvac Detroit or XD-3 40W. These are low ash CD/CF-2 oils and are the oils used by Detroit Diesel OEM
kshansen, this is great to know. I have a forklift with a Detroit 53 engine. Thanks a lot. I learned something new today.
That is correct. When I rebuilt the engine, it was obvious the prior owner had not used a CF-II straight 40 oil (they're hard to find anywhere but a marina). The liners were scared and the head looked really bad. I use Rotella straight 40 (not 0-40 or the like). High shear rate viscosity is essential. I had the engine fired up today, ran it hard for about 30 minutes to get it nice and warm......condensation tends to build up when doing short runs (the oil fill slobbering tube was smoking). Thanks for posting!
A few pictures from today.
So, BobcatBob, do you have a twisty neck like a goose and how does it feel to be operating control levers while looking backwards?;-) Awesome looking pictures! Crane is like new now! You asked a few days ago how I move my crane on truck. Here's how:
Looks real good Bob.:drinkup You can zip up I90 to 94 about 8 hours and pick up my TLB so you can practice for your next project . I figure is you get started now you should be done and have it back in the spring ! Rick
While I always liked Detroits I have questioned their application in cranes. At least the cranes where I worked they spent little time working under any kind of load and most operators would just let them sit at low idle waiting for the next five minute pick. Especially when most of the crane work in the quarry was done during off season which was mostly in the cold, below freezing weather, so those blowers are pushing very cold air through an engine that is barely burning any fuel and cab heater is pulling most of the heat out of the coolant. Have to wonder if it would help to install a butterfly valve in the exhaust to create some back pressure and restrict the air through the engine while at low idle maybe include a pressure relief valve or just a restriction port in the butterfly? I know I have heard of people making restrictor plates and installing them between heads and exhaust manifolds for engines that need to be run at low power output for extended time. One of our quarries had a truck drill with a 6V-53 in the truck. This would be a good engine for a rig traveling over road from job to job. But as this rig never left the one quarry the truck engine was never working at much over 10% load if that! I was told they installed restrictor plates and dried up the mess coming out of the cylinders.
You cannot put a exhaust restriction on a two stroke diesel, it will not flush the cylinder properly with fresh air.
Wood shavings, by the handfull, can be used as an abrasive and absorbent material to remove paint stripper. For those areas that a scraper can't get to, just grab a handfull of wood shavings and rub.
When I broke in the engine after rebuilding it, I found some folks who were using exhaust restrictors to apply a load. I asked the same question as to back pressure....the oil has to go somewhere....was worried about a runaway if it got past the rings ( unlikely as they're brand new, not worth the risk). The break in schedule was very specific as to loads , how long, etc. I thought about having a professional break in on a hydro dynamometer, but went with a old school approach.......drive it up and down hills at different Rpm.....worked like a charm.
Sweet rig! You do have all the toys! I may need help in the future.......
I use this truck/trailer commercially almost every day, you are welcome to inquire. I am in Berkeley, IL.
I spoke to soon. In all my excitement after replacing the boom hoses and finding no leaks.......a puddle formed under the boom. I'm in process of getting a few bids to take the boom apart and reseal the crowd cylinders. Yes, still having fun, just a thinner wallet now.
I'm getting a bid to transport the crane from Elkhorn WI to a shop in Milwaukee. I'll follow up once received (Berkeley to Elkhorn, then to Milwaukee ..twice.....quite a bit of driving). If the bid is crazy, I'll follow up also for "second thoughts".
BobcatBob, I think that going from Elkhorn to Milwaukee you would be better off with local equipment transporters, always plenty of guys owning a removable gooseneck semi trailer, looking for business. I am guessing it should cost you like $350 in cash per trip, something that I could not possibly beat. These trucking guys are always hungry for cash.
I'm interested what that's gonna cost. I just did a 30 ton terex tele cylinder. The gland on the end of the cylinder was cracked so with a new aluminum gland and seal kit it came to a little over 4k
Is this for re sealing the crowd cylinders Bob ? I take it the cylinders won't slip out the back of the boom for repairs ?
Yes, unfortunately the boom is taken apart at the 2nd and 3rd section......3rd and 4th pulled out together with the crowd cylinders inside. Once on the ground, the crowd cylinders (over/ under opposing cylinders) can be pulled out and worked on. The manual (1974 with black and white pictures) is easy to follow, but requires another crane to do this. I called a company today, sent them a copy of the manual (I'll supply all the parts, wear pads while we're at it).... To see what it will cost for them to do it in house vs. me hiring a crane (twice) and attempting to do it myself. The issue for me would be the weight once everything is on the ground. The crowd cylinders are approximately 10-12 feet long each....only have a Bobcat 753 to move heavy stuff around (much less the force required to pull and insert the re packed rod's back into the cylinder tubes). If it's crazy money, I'll reach out to Ichudov.....offer lunch, dinner's, a fun round at our rifle range (crane is up at my farm in Elkhorn, Wi) and a stack of cash for a weekends work using his "toys".
Ok ,Yeah got it Bob . If the repair estimates get crazy next step hire a crane & mechanic to show up on site to do the job . We get in on some site repair / service calls . Sometimes that's the quickest & most cost effective way to do it . http://www.heavytruckforums.com/showthread.php?263-Some-Holmes-750-action&p=1606&viewfull=1#post1606
I am afraid to take my crane to Wisconsin,because I would have to drive with it through truck scales. But I am wondering, can some chain hoists under your rafters help you?
My pole barn is a stick build, rafters are 2x8's. Doing this type of work would need a 10 ton gantry. I believe 294 to 94 from you.....absolutely legal. The road to get to me in WI would be 50 at Kenosha....and I believe you're legal the whole way. I have an M817 I took down 12 through Richmond, hit the scale there...no issue (my truck is good to 45k loaded). A crane on a low boy, not sure going via route 12. Happy Thanksgiving.
LOL an M817! I wouldn't want to drive one of them very far with the original seat! Not the best riding piece of equipment in the world! Can you post a few pictures of it for this old soldier? Thanks Rick
I have a M923A2
Happy thanksgiving gents! Here are two thread links to my other "toys"...M817 and M925 with plow. I'm a member on Steel Soldiers, Neophyte. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?84672-M817-Bobcat-Fun!!&referrerid=36360 http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?92336-Snow-Plow-for-M925&referrerid=36360
Very cool Bob. But you can have them. I'm not a big fan of military trucks. Not after serving 20 year! At least I didn't have to mess with em too much. Besides the tanks were a lot more fun!! Rick
Very nice trucks bobcatbob. I am also a member of steelsoldiers.
Small world....great sites. Thank you for your service Rick. These are hobby/utility vehicles....I enjoy the work on them.
you guys are really fantastic!!
Thank you. What do you go by?
Had a low boy pick up the crane this weekend. After much research, doing the internal boom cylinders is outside of my "hobby" skills. The shop it's going to is a hydraulic shop, two gantry cranes....should be able to do the job no problem. I think the owner was a little shocked to see an old Galion with no rust, grease....everything working properly....except the boom cylinder. I showed him all the upgrades, new parts.....thought he was going to make me an offer for the machine..lol. Having fun! Next project is a Sw48 Bombardier snow cat with a ford 300. Should be a little easier.....tires don't weigh 500 lbs.
Hey I thought you were going to practice on my TLB?:jawdrop I'm even willing to let you have it till yer done rent free!:exactly I looked at a snow cat a few years ago but the owner was a little high and wouldn't come down at all. It sold for less than I would have paid at auction a few years later after the old guy passed. Cool machine. Rick
Exactly. I've found a few who think their rusted, non working machines are worth more than its weight in gold. Unfortunately, those machines sit, never to see life again.
Took the crane in to a local hydraulic shop to get the internal boom cylinders repacked. They used two gantry cranes to remove the boom, pulled the cylinders, installed new seals, shims...like brand new! They did a fantastic job, very reasonable for a weeks work.
This Galion looks like new now! Awesome job!
Thanks Ichudov. A question I haven't been able to find a consistent answer on: What grease and what applicator is used on cable?
Many years of fun to come.. Looking good
I use used hydraulic oil myself, I just slop it on the cable as much as it takes.
Sum ting wong! I installed the new cable over the weekend, lifted the Hook Block up........Hmmm....looks a little "twisted". I realized i placed the cable in the wedge socket backwards. Rookie mistake! The hardest part about replacing cable was getting the cable to lay correctly in the reel (as its hard to apply enough force to make the cable taught when reeling it up). As you'll see by the ladder, I had to feed it through the block and get it to come down the front pulley's while clearing the bars in front of the pulleys. I had grease all over me (used a 5 gallon tub, applied it by hand while sucking up the cable). Messy job, but got er done!!! Some touch up paint, a rework of the primary lift cable seal at the manifold (yes, I did this already, but noticed some hydo fluid coming up into the cab.....damn!)......and she's done!! 3 1/2 years later! Having fun!
Bob , does the boom head have any pin boss locations to dead end the cable when using the block ?
I'm not a crane guy but are you sure you should grease the cables? I have owned over 20 wing snowplow trucks over the years. We used to grease the cables every year. A few guys told me not to as the grease actually holds the moisture in. For the last 5 years or so we just spray them with cable lube from Napa. The amount of broken cables has been greatly reduced. I don't think we've broken one in the last three years. It used to be 1 to 2 per year. I'm interested to here what others say??
Hi TD25c..........no it doesn't. The crane was made in the 70's.......back then I believe the block (like this one) was where the dead end of the cable attaches. The manual shows this procedure, but nothing about attaching to boom head.
Me too! The manuals I have say to grease the cable vs. lube with a light oil.
Gotcha Bob , you just dead end at the block when it's in use . Nice work on the machine !
I worked on a few cranes at my previous job with a demo company we used some kind of a teflon containing cable lube we sprayed on with a garden sprayer, the lube has to be thin enough to get into the inside of the cable it prevents rust as a side effect it is to actually lubricate the wires as they work , new cable is already lubricated, we lubed all the cranes that were local every 6 months I think If im remembering rite
Got er figured out! Reset the wedge in the block, set the live end correctly, and found a 180 degree twist in the rope......so straightened it out......good to go! Did a test lift on the front of an Army truck, used a dynamometer to measure weight......was an 8,000 Lb lift. Lifted without any hesitation at idle rpm, drum brake held like a champ........success!! Sorry for the crappy Iphone pics.....they were taken at twilight.
That's great Bob ! I imagine it feels good to get to this stage on the project . Sounds like the test went well . I did the same thing with my cranes . Grab something of known weight out in the yard & get used to the machine , swinging , boom up & down , ect . Last test I shut the crane off with a load on the hook & hop out & walk around the machine looking it over . let it hang for about an hour to get an idea how outriggers & cylinders are holding . Looks great Bob:thumbsup
Thanks Td25c I'll do that....static test and see if I have any leak down. All cylinders have been rebuilt (except steering and main). Knowing that it's an 8,000 lb load , I'll boom all sections out a bit , boom up and see if she holds solid. I would love to try lifting the truck up (it's 26,000 lbs) but the spreader platform they use is specific to the truck.....but would be a good test as the limit on this machine is 30,000 Lb.
Another approach is jam all the boom out with something light ( small block chevy engine ) . Stay inside the chart of coarse with whatever you are picking . Lift it a few feet off the ground then shut the engine down simulating a failure of some kind ? Say the blower shaft snaps during a pick . This gives you an idea about cylinder drift & how much time you have . LOL ! I need to quit thinking so negative .
Not at all!! That is exactly how I think.....the "what if" scenario......prepare for the worst, expect the best. Mr. Murphy can present himself at any time, so running the crane through a test period to check all the work I've done.....excellent idea. I did note the winch brake does slip under light loads, but with the recent lift......held with no issue.
Heck of a job on that rebuild. I've got a crane you need for your next project. Lol I'm sure you'll be amazed how often you'll need a crane once your completely done with it.
Thanks Knepptune This has been an incredible journey, but about 2000+ hrs of work/fun. I spent most weekends and vacations working on it.......and am now ready for a new challenge (rebuilding a Snow Cat). I still have more to go on this beauty.
Got old glory up for the 4th!
You going to share pictures of the Snow Cat too? Bet some of the guys here have to do a Google search for that, probably think it's a D8H painted white!
That's awesome Bob ! Corn crop looks great as well :thumbsup
Now just hang on one dang minute ....... You got HEF members in line already for rebuild & new paint on equipment . Don't go puttin that Snow Cat at the front of the line . Keep up the good work Bob !
Thanks TD25c and Kshansen! Haha......I enjoy this type of work, purely for pleasure. It's almost as if I look forward to a problem developing, a challenge. I'm almost done with the crane.....and found a problem with the main crowd check valve (ordered a new one on Friday).....along with two new hoses for the valve (don't need it, but why not while I'm in there). I've got a few odds and ends left, but pretty much rebuilt the entire machine.....and had a ton of fun doing it (2000+ hours). I still haven't figured out how to slow down.....this is my therapy.....lol!
Ran into a problem recently....Engine head was leaking coolant! Had the head rebuilt about two years ago....but the "pin" didn't hold under pressure......so, pulled the head, had a new one built for the 453, installed last weekend, runs like a top! I caught this early (noticed a few drops of coolant from the slobber tube)...no engine issues. Now, I've got a problem with the main crowd cylinder to work on (replaced the check valve, cylinder still doesn't hold). A work in progress.
The main crowd cylinder is kaput! It would extend out no problem, but a no go on retraction. I replaced the check valve earlier this year thinking that was the problem, but after raising the boom.....and finding the cylinder would retract with power off.....meant only one thing : piston is shot (or it came off the rod!). I made a few calls, figured I could repair myself....but with no way to get to the gland nut (short of drilling a new hole).....a 1000# + cylinder needing removal.....Off to the hydraulic shop.
Main crowd cylinder is repaired! The seals were completely worn out, so had them resealed, honed out the cylinder for some minor nicks.....all in all, not to shabby (I was expecting a problem with piston head the way the cylinder came down so fast when elevated). With the internal crowd cylinders, hoses and now the main crowd cylinder repaired.....time to button this beauty up! I put the hose guards back on the boom and rewound the cable on the reel (had a layer of cable that wasn't laying correctly, reeled all out but first layer.....pulled in with tension by "towing" off a truck hitch). Not perfect, but it worked well. Having fun!
Now wait just one second here! You were supposed to practice on my JCB backhoe before you started another project! Rick
Hi Rick! How's the knee? Waiting to see thread on your rebuild! No, I have an SW 48 Bombardier I'll be digging into this winter. Like the Galion was....rusted, leaking, headed to a scraper....I'll reserect more old iron to its original state. It's got a Ford 300 inline 6 with a C6 transmission....it runs, but needs lots of TLC.
Awesome Job , and it never fizzled out as some projects do. I am at a roadblock on my Link belt LS 50...
Thank you Ironworker. It's been challenging and fun. I should locate my 4th grade teacher who said "stop day dreaming and pay attention" and show her what a dream....and a lot of elbow grease accomplished.....lol
Almost there......a few minor items left, but realized all things look better with STICKERS! Added the Galion stickers and safety/load chart/lubrication/etc labels today. Yes, still having fun!
Oops....these should be better.
Gentlemen, I did my 1st lift today! After almost 4 years of refurbishing/rebuilding almost everything on this old girl......I lifted a 6,000 # CNC mill (just bought it at auction), went out to 25 feet.....solid as a rock! Having fun!
Very nice Bob
Thank you. Now if I can figure out how to take iPhone pictures that aren't inverted...
Hey Bob, I wondered what it cost for the new wire rope for one of these? What dia is it and how many feet? Also did you look into bending back that outrigger mount?
Nice work Bob ! You know ........ I just got an idea ? If ya keep buying CNC machine tools for the shop that crane will pay for itself pretty quick setting them in place . Keep the meter running on the Galion & charge accordingly Bro .
Hi Davo, I believe it's 9/16 diameter cable and 450 feet long. I purchased it from Contractors Crane in Houston for about $1300 + shipping. It wasn't their cheapest cable (they had Korean and US made, I try to always buy US made) but like tires on the wife's car, buy the best (especially when it comes to safety). I would call contractors.....they will have the exact cable type and length for your Galion.....they're really top notch.
Hi Td25c You guys are the pro's.....I'm not licensed nor experienced, so likely will never charge to help friends (and local farmers). If I ever get asked to help on a lift that's complex (i.e. A grain bin or the like, setting trusses with lots of people around)....I'll ask them to call a pro to run my crane. The wonderful work you guys do....safely...comes from years of experience and training. I'm a common sense guy....and smart enough to know what I don't know. I bought this CNC for my use (another "tool" for my refurbishing projects).....and learned how to program and set up a CNC mill many years ago (was my 1st career).....now a "can't buy the part, I'll make it" component in my arsenal of bringing life back into forgotten and unloved equipment. The lift I did was simple for you guys, but I planned out as if I was lifting a man basket safety wise (measured everything, reviewed load charts, doubled up on slings, watched bubble level in cab the further I boomed out, etc). I was nervous, but incredibly excited to do it for the 1st time.....and it worked as planned. As a side note, the inspiration for doing the rebuild of the Galion 150...was my grandfather. He owned a Grove 18 ton (I think it was a 1974).....was an owner/operator, member of the Local 150 (I have his 25 year member pin, Union jacket)..he passed in 1997. During the summers, early 80's.....he would let me grease all the zerks, change the oil/filter, top off the hydraulic fluid , wash the windows (lucky strikes left a horrible glaze on windshield), etc......and paid $20 for a hard days work. As a treat, he would take me for a ride around the block....I would ride in the operator cab... it was illegal, but he knew how much I loved it. Absolutely fantastic memories....best man I ever knew.
How was the job replacing the cable? The winch have brake pads inside and how does that work?
Nice photos and build BobCatBob. I have been following your build for a long time. You are a smart man to stay within your known limits and experiance although I think you would come out fine. Mentioning man baskets, it has been against OSHA regulations for a number of years to use a man basket unless you can show that to build a scaffold or use a different type of approved device would be more dangerous. Cost does not weight into the decision in their eyes. If you do ever have to use one you need to have the basket certified and tagged by a structural engineer. A test pick to the distance you will be using it must be done first with a 5,000 lb minimum weight pinned under the basket so that it teests all components. The weight must also have the weight stamped on it and be certified as correct by a structural engineer. Then you can remove the weight and proceed with personnel in the basket.
Cool story Bob , no doubt your Grandfather would be proud of your accomplishments and the dedicated work that went in to them . Same way with my Grand Dad . Made us work our ass off but also taught us to run equipment & drive trucks at an early age . Great times :thumbsup
Thanks Td25c. Funny story: when I was 12, my grandfather taught me to drive in his Ford El Camino. When I was ready, he let me drive around the "crane lot", where he parked his crane , on my own. One morning I was backing the vehicle up and ran into the right rear outrigger .....hard. It bent in the bumper, looked and sounded bad enough that I thought I damaged the outrigger. I was scared, remained silent while he inspected my "crash". He lit up a smoke, looked at me and then pointed to the outrigger ....."didn't even scratch the paint, let's get lunch". At his funeral, my grandmother told the story about me backing the truck into his crane......and how he kept the truck until the wheels came off....so he could tell his buddies "my grandson did that when he was 12". Truly the greatest generation....made men out of us all.
Thanks Old Iron. I'm still waiting for your rebuild thread....now that your knees "new and improved". Where are you with the project? It's been a long time since I was around working cranes, but my grandfather had a man basket he made and used (he was an Iron worker before owning a crane.....his man basket attached to his boom like a jib.....it was really cool, welded square tube steel, very stout.
Hi Davo It's a two man job.....and pretty simple. After unwinding all the cable, the drum has a wedge holding the cable end.....a few wacks with a hammer and it's out. The key is to have some one in the cab lowering the cable while you pull it to avoid it wrapping up on the drum (your arms will get a great workout as it's 450 feet). To put new cable on, you'll need to build a little stand to unwind it from the reel under tension.....and have it lay in the same natural wrap as it comes off the new cable reel. I did this with 2x4's and a 4" pipe (reel weighs about 500 lbs ...about a pound per foot). The hard part was applying enough tension while sucking up the new cable.....I did it by holding on with leather gloves while my father was in the cab.....and it still didn't lay right. I posted a while back how I fixed this (unwound all the cable to the first wrap, attached block to the back f a truck.....and pulled it in while dragging the truck......it worked like a charm!). Unorthodox, but it worked. I could of boomed up and out to get all the cable out, but lifting a sizable weight to get real tension.....wasn't comfortable having never done that (even though it's well within spec to do it, just no experience).
Don't want to really pick on anyone, but I don't want anyone operating with unclear/ incorrect info. The real regulations for manbasket work are here: https://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=STANDARDS&p_id=97 The quoted stuff below is direct from the regs, I've tried to sum up the lawyer speak of it afterwards. "The use of equipment to hoist employees is prohibited except where the employer demonstrates that the erection, use, and dismantling of conventional means of reaching the work area, such as a personnel hoist, ladder, stairway, aerial lift, elevating work platform, or scaffold, would be more hazardous, or is not possible because of the project's structural design or worksite conditions. This paragraph does not apply to work covered by subpart R (Steel Erection) of this part." That means if it is more dangerous to have 4 guys spend 2 weeks building scaffolding to do 20 minutes of work from a crane basket, the crane is a safer way. If it's safer to bring in a 80' Genie platform than use a crane, bring on the Genie. I don't do manbasket work if there is a safer way, but it's a judgement call which does get made- you just need to be sure you're making the right call. "A qualified person familiar with structural design must design the personnel platform and attachment/suspension system used for hoisting personnel." Notice it doesn't say structural engineer and stamped. "The weight of the platform and its rated capacity must be conspicuously posted on the platform with a plate or other permanent marking." Yes it is marked. "The personnel platform must not be loaded in excess of its rated capacity." A 5,000lb test weight would overdo most manbaskets "At each jobsite, prior to hoisting employees on the personnel platform, and after any repair or modification, the platform and rigging must be proof tested to 125 percent of the platform's rated capacity. The proof test may be done concurrently with the trial lift." That's the trial lift (which is a lift to the working area not exceding 50% of crane capacity) and proof test in one. The Proof test and weight is 125% of the men and equipment planned for the lift, and that can change ex. 1 man- 2men- 2 men torch tools etc. It's not some single set amount (5,000lbs?). There's a ton of more info if anyone care's to read it all, and I don't mean to step on your toes old iron, I didn't want someone reading something on the forum, and then claim it for fact.
By the way Bob- nice pictures and a nice lift with your crane- you're like tradesman though- you've got this strange white stuff flying around, and all over the ground in those pictures- which is almost as disturbing as them being upside down.
Thanks Crane Operator. I had set up my construction light (in case the trucker was late), built a transition platfrom to lower the CNC onto (used machine skates from there), set the crane true and level, warmed up the machine prior to lift......all was planned.....except for snow. Hey, I've followed your posts for years....is that a 70's Grove you own? I remember the orange and brown stripes (one steering axle vs. two) on my grandfathers crane.....awesome machine.
I still have my knees, although some days I think I need replacements. I think you got two of us mixed up. I have a 318 Cat equipped Koering 405 with dragline, clam shell, and 8 part block in my sights but have not been able to close the deal yet.
Good move on the CNC mill ! Amazing what they can do with a good operator . I'm somewhat of a troglodyte so CNC machines are pretty intimidating . Have a few machine tools in the shop but they are all hand crank & lever as that's all I'm comfortable with . Hard telling what the CNC mill would turn out if I started grunting at it while punching on the buttons .LOL! Like you say no issues on discontinued parts as you just program in the dimensions & it cranks it out . Luckily have a good buddy that has a shop full of these machines and knows what to do with them . Amazing tools & talent ! Always up to the challenge . He cranked me out a pretty nice gland nut for and old Ford backhoe on a CNC . http://www.heavytruckforums.com/showthread.php?263-Some-Holmes-750-action&p=1902&viewfull=1#post1902 It's almost like we are seeing another industrial revolution with the CNC machines falling in to the hands of small shops that take care of customers . I like it ! :thumbsup
Thanks Td25c.......yes, a Bridgeport, le blond lathe....bluing ink and a scribe......you can pretty much make anything. A CNC just makes it look good....and a little faster. I concur.....there are a lot of people like me who got out of the industry when the "race to lowest cost provider" ....China.....took a hold of manufacturing in the early 90's.....and switched careers. Now, we're on the other side and looking back on the joy of making your own parts.....exciting things to come out of this.
Too cool man, excellent rebuild and very well documented thread. Thank you for taking the time to document and share for others to see. While I haven't moved past the 'keep things functional' stage of owning equipment, I do plan on overhauling and restoring my 743 Bobcat and my Deere 310A TLB. Both are to be lengthy projects as both are functional machines being used quite frequently, but have been cobbled on and neglected over the years before I purchased them. You certainly set the bar high for those of us looking to take on that kind of project. Keep up the excellent work and I look forward to reading about your snowcat rebuild. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Thanks Colson One of my first posts on Heavy Equipment forums was of a cosmetic/light rebuild update on our Bobcat 753c. What I never posted was what really made a difference: replacing all the pins and bearings on all moveable parts (except the engine, the Kubota 2203's are tanks....we have 4,000 hours on ours.....and these engines can run for 10,000-15,000hrs Before rebuild). It tightened the machine up, runs like brand new (5 years now). I have replaced one hydraulic drive motor, resealed two cylinders....pretty simple work. Luckily we have no issues with hydraulics (that can get tricky). The older machines like yours and mine have very few electronics.....a blessing considering the bulk of problems people have with the new machines are "error" codes that stop the machines. Remember, have fun.....it's the journey, not the destination when rebuilding.
That's the part that a lot of people forget sometimes, including myself. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
No doubt Bob ! Have several construction machines & trucks that have not had dealer parts support for years . I can still get parts , just have to walk in the local machine shop & bend the ear of the owner and they crank out a new one for us .:thumbsup These small machine shops of today have the same capability of a large manufacturer in the 1950's with the ability build what needs built in a quick time frame . We are in interesting times for sure and I like it .
How does that 3 extending boom deal work? Is it really a single telescoping cylinder??
3 Cylinders for boom extention?
There is one cylinder under the boom that pushes out the 2nd section , then there is an over/under set of cylinders inside section 2 that extends out section 3&4 at the same time.
Full power boom in old school talk .
When I read the Galion crane manuals the 1st time, I was surprised to see a section for "pinning the boom"....pulling out the last section manually, then pinning it in place. I'm surprised they actually sold cranes like that......likely to increase the lifting capacity.
That's cool your Galion has " full power " on the boom . My Grove TM's all have " dead section " where you pull the pin and throw latches to run it out when you need it . Push it out with the cylinder then run it back & install the pin .Takes a little time but not to big of a deal .
Gents! Noticed oil spitting out around the engine head.....pulled the head.....I had rolled the perimeter head gasket when rebuilding the engine. The block had been decked....so the gasket grove had less depth to hold the gasket in (gasket is like a big rubber band, stretched when installed).....this time I used a little super glue to keep it in place. Also replaced the radiator hoses (we’ll see if the mice eat these ones, silicone this time). Having fun! Happy Thanksgiving.
Very good Bob. Have you messed with the mill at all ?
If you keep the engine clean like that people will wonder where the green leaker moniker came from. My experience with silicone hoses is the silicone doesn't tolerate chafing nearly as well as rubber.
I’ll give the silicone hoses a try (should be no chafing against them, open for the most) and report back next year after “mouse season” is over. As for the CNC Mill.....I’ve used it mainly for aesthetic projects (emblems and badges out of 6061).....but did some tooling work with it and a part for a friend (stem nut for an early Harley Hummer....real odd ball size thread). Having fun!
I really enjoyed reading through your posts on restoring the gailon. Your posts are inspiring for me. I just bought an old austin western rough terrain crane. I didn't expect it to end with a cnc mill. I have a few of them myself and really enjoy making unavailable parts for projects.
Thanks John. It’s really a passion for me (rebuilding old school machinery close to OEM spec). It’s not for a profit to sell or even to put back into production, it’s more for the challenge. Once you commit to a restoration...there is always a moment of “what have I gotten myself into”. CNC is an ultimate tool in this process! I finished this project last year: Bombardier SW48 Snowcat Having fun! P.s. Some of the smartest people I ever met were Crane Operators (my grandfather) and Tool & Die makers.
Hmmm....bad picture.....here’s a few more (note the picture I showed my wife....”Crane has many purposes”
That's a cool " ATV " on the hook . Ford power in it ?
Hi TD! Yes, it’s a Ford Industrial 300. They’re tanks! It’s just like the Ford F100-F150 engine of yesteryear, but it’s all forged inside, thicker casting, heavier piston rings, etc. It needed a new water pump....quote was $800 for an OEM! Holy jumpin jimminy....that’s a lot for a water pump (went with the non industrial for $50). Hooked to a C-6 transmission...these machines are beasts!
I love it !
I'll second that. I was curious if we would see any pics of the snocat. Looks great Bob!
Took day off.....and by chance, this pulled up! They’re installing a “Pergala” in my neighbors back yard. Operator was really cool....I think he could tell I’m an “enthusiast” after sharing pics of the Galion. Oh.....got Old Glory up for the 4th.....built a 20ft jib to hold the 10x15 flag. Having fun! Bob
I just started work on a Galion 125. Thanks for the inspiring work. I would have probably given up if I hadnt come across your post. Al
Thank you. Good luck with your machine!
Had a doozy with a Gleason Reel letting go! I was booming in sections 3&4.....Didn’t notice the Gleason Reel let go.....about 1/2 of both hoses got caught up in the boom.....made a real mess! I was able to install a new reel, new hose.......but still a “leak”. Upon inspection on the back side of the boom, the relief valve (or release valve) had opened! It’s a little brass thumb fitting that you can open if sections 3&4 get stuck out.....and with the hose getting caught up....it had unscrewed the valve. Got lucky.....thought the manifold had blown an o-ring....or worse yet, a cylinder had blown a seal.
Something change with downloading images? Imgur not accepted?
Not sure about "Imgur" but when I want to post pictures I just click on the "Upload a File" blue button below the box I'm typing this message in. If you want to post more than one I believe all you have to do is hold down the "CTL" key and keep selecting the different files for the pictures. You can then select to post as fullsized and go back to the typing and put text above or below each one.
Thank you kshansen! So much easier than finding a host for pictures! Bob
No problem like to see the pictures. Never saw a sheave like that before the tapered one. I'm sure there is a reason for it being that way. Actually not sure what that orange thing is it is on! Most of my work experience was on front end loaders, haul trucks and Mack ten-wheelers and only the odd crane hear and there, Oh almost for got the skid-steers!
The orange can has a big flat spring in it. It keeps tension on the extend and retract hoses, for the tip and mid sections of the boom telescope cylinder. As the boom extends, the hoses go out into the boom section, as the boom retracts, the spring pulls the hoses back on the outside of the boom. They don't just give those spring cans away either. I think it was around $3-4,000 by the time i bought the spring can and the hoses. The hoses are actually a special hose also- can't just use regular hyd. hose. Its some kind of synflex hose.
Hi Crane Op Exactly! It’s a few bucks and some sweat to replace. The hardest part is getting the hose around the rear slave pulley (getting the hose fittings through the keepers on the pulley....very hard not to kink the hose).....then lining up the fittings to the manifold connections. I’ve done it twice now......officially a “boom hose” mechanic! Having fun! Bob
Very good! And this summer im really going to work on my 150
Davo727.....glad to hear! Create a thread for us all to follow along. After my Gleason Real failure, put her all back together....and gave her a bath. With hydraulic fluid coating the machine , I went with Dawn soap, scrub brush and a hot pressure wash. I figured if they used Dawn post Exxon Valdez, it’ll work on my “spill”.
Looks great, we just purchased a 150FA found an operators guide online, looking for a parts manual I have a leak on the control valve for the second third scope. Seems like it builds a lot of back pressure when i try and come back in. I'm thinking a relief valve? Have you come across the issue?
Retract and extend are slow on 2-3. Way slower than the big section. Is the leak on your valve right at the dash lever in the cab? That's where they usually leak. I get my parts from Contractors Crane in Houston. They have all the parts for the old Galions, and know what you will need. Buy Broderson & Galion Crane Parts Supplier | Contractors Crane Co. Buy quality Broderson & Galion crane parts from Contractors Crane Co. Reliable replacement components, expert support, and nationwide shipping. contractorscraneco.com
Yep, that where it leaks, drips on the boot and keep the leather water proofed. Still wondering why it builds so much back pressure? I take it they would have a parts manual as well?
I think I got my manual off ebay. I'm not sure what you mean by "back pressure". Is the boom well greased?
I’ve had the same issue since day one. It is slow (and I’ve had both internal boom cylinders rebuilt, new Brass guides, slide bearings). I believe it has something to do with the fluid volume…..just not designed for “quick” movement. Contractors out of Houston is the way to go….they have everything! Bob
Yes I serviced the boom, hoist brake as it was slipping at 50% of load. Now it holds 110% with no slip. When i go to retract second second it moves slow and sounds like its building pressure on the line like it was at the end of the piston stroke. I sent a email to the company you suggested for a parts manual. Thanks for the recommendation.
2&3 retract at about 1/4 to1/3 of the speed of the big section.
That is great info to share. Keeps a guy from chasing his tail trying to fix a nothingburger.
Fully aware appreciated the referral. yep the third valve in Rear left stabilizer, blows oil out through rubber boot, when I activate the swing in any direction.
Anyone have any info on the swing? I have a 150A and everything works but swing. Swing brake seems to release but no swingy. ♂️
The swing brake is just a drum similar to the winch brake. The release arm can be moving but the drum can have the shoes stuck to it. I would pull the drum, because then you can also see if it’s trying to turn the gear for swing. It could have something broken in the swing drive. If it’s freezing, you can also have moisture get into the cable control lever, and the lever will move a little bit, but not enough to make the function work. Mine likes to freeze one winch lever.
I’d check the drive housing for oil. To Crane Operators point…..if it’s cold, any water will lock her up. I pulled the drain plug on the drive housing (just behind the Cab, on the bottom of housing)…..and at least 2 quarts of water came out! Fill it back up to the fill plug (on side of housing)…this might be the issue. Bob
Does anyone have a part number and ideally a source for 5 and six below. This strainer is nowhere to be found on my 80s 150A Still searching for the serial number...
Serial # should be on an aluminum tag on floor in cab, behind seat, left side. Call Contractors out of Houston…..they’ll have the filter and O ring (5&6). Picture of your crane? Is it an A model or FA? Detroit diesel?
Bob told me about them previously, they are basically the official Galion source at this point. Contractors Crane 5606 Jensen Dr., Houston, Texas 77026 (713) 695-7162
Yep Found it! C-150A-DGA S/N 6486 Spoke with Jake at Contractors - Jeeeeeez that screen / strainer part is like 360 bucks and another 30 for the o-ring. I can't believe the guys I got it from lost it or something. Here she is on the way home:
Doesn't this strainer just keep you from pouring trash into the tank, when filling with oil? If so, if you can manage to fill it with clean oil, I don't know that I would lose sleep over the strainer being gone. Look how long its held together without it. On the other hand, looking at the picture, I'm guessing this would be a cheaper one of your future repairs. Wait until you need the tele hoses, and the spring reel that tensions those hoses. Judging from all the straps holding up the outriggers, you're going to need some cylinders resealed also. You want to play with iron, better bring your wallet.
“You want to play with iron, better bring your wallet.”……yep. Jake is fantastic to work with. He pretty much supplied me with everything needed for a full rebuild (short of resealing the internal boom cylinders and what I needed to rebuild the Detroit). It was a fun project!
Yeah Bob, your machine looks awesome. I got it for putting up timber frame buildings on my property, I can certainly tolerate it being a little rough for a while. What I hear is the thing sat for about 15 years-ish prior to my acquiring it. It must have had a mostly full hydraulic tank, cause the inside is shiny metal below a certain point. My understanding is that this separates the suction side of the tank from the fill/return side? The manual says: From the parts diagram and picture below (correct me if I'm wrong) but it looks like the oil is returned to the top of the tank, where it is sucked down through that screen which, I'm guessing, slows the flow around the magnets and provides an additional layer of filtering? I can't tell if it was lost recently or ran for a while without it, the spider is there. Given some of the rust flakes and dirt I found in the top of the tank, I'm thinking I better be more cautious, as I don't want to have to rebuild the pump if I can avoid it for a while. Here's my short list: - DONE - Remount/Inner Tube right rear tire. - DONE - Clean out all the crud and power wash the slime - Repair broken cover stud on hydraulic tank - Clean hydraulic tank and install new filters/screen - Replace broken shift cable - Unstick/Swap fast lift cable for testing - Reattach hydraulic pump drive shaft (we detached it so the pump wouldn't run dry) - Reattach lower boom cylinder end to boom (I think one of the owners was about to reseal it then stopped or injured himself or something) Thanks for your help / advice guys. It's nice to know there are others out there with these things.
Another question, I was under there this morning, there is this threaded hole and I can see the flywheel, is this just a drain plug? I'm looking at this right, this is the flywheel and the torque converter is inside this housing?
How did your tire project work out? I have 2 flat rear to tackle. Just bought a 50 ton bottle jack, my 20 wasnt doing much good on the left rear. Storms and floods interfering again also.
I used a 30 ton and lots of cribbing, but same, rain came thru and it settled a bit. Hit the lugs with a little heat and PB and my makita impact slowly worked them free. Rim was a little rust bonded but knocked it off. After watching the tire guys put on an inner tube and take the wheel apart I probably could have done it myself but it was nice to basically watch the tricks. Not cheep tho. Ordered shifter cable parts from McMaster should have that back together soon. So strange tried calling contractors crane all day and it kept dropping, wonder if they are just closed Friday.
They may not have power. Houston got hammered thursday eve.
Interesting thread! I have read through it all as I bought a Gallon 150A late in 2020. Detroit 4-53 power. All hydraulic boom. It does have some problems that need to be addressed some day, the worst being the upper boom section piggy back cylinders leaking horribly, so I don’t use them. Heaviest lift I’ve done with it so far was unloading a horizontal boring mill that weighed right at 8 tons. That was all it wanted as there was some reach required to pick it off the truck and swing it to a concrete pad. For what it’s worth I have all the books for the 150A, although they are not original for my machine.
Gearclash…….check up in the back end of the main boom section……there is a thumb wheel relief valve. I had a bunch of boom hose get caught up in there when my Gleason real failed…..and it opened the relief valve. Twisted close…….leak gone. This was after I had the internal cylinders resealed. Small world: Bought a Fadal VMC 15….. found a use for the crane.
I will look back there again . . . Gleason reels have failed on my 150A as well . . . hose all wadded up back there when I got it . . . anything may have happened.
Are the left side lug nuts left hand thread?
Davo…..I’m sure on right hand or left hand on the wheels…good Question. Gear clash……here’s a few pics of redoing the boom hoses and Gleason reel:
More pics
Bob did the transmission and mounts stay secure when you pulled the engine? Due to my errors and neglect the komatsu/cummins 5.9 has to come out of my 150. At minimum I need a block and pistons/rings gaskets and one new injector (broke on removal) and the other 5 cleaned and chekced.
Hi Davo It did (I have the Clark transmission set up). I was able to drop the propellor shaft to the torque converter, then the U joint to the hydraulic pump…and pull the engine.
Made a little progress yesterday: Shift cable - I used McMaster 2691K22 as a replacement which seems like a nice unit, modified the cable mount to take a generic u-bolt, just have to install it. Shifting from the cab instead of climbing under the machine will be a nice upgrade Hydraulic tank - Fully cleaned out the tank and used magnets to check all the corners for sludge and stuff. Chased all the stud threads and welded in a new one for the one that they busted off. Replaced the paper filters, breather and O-rings on the covers. I used a silicon based o-ring grease to install them. Looks like there was also some pin hole in the lower cover landing, welded that and smoothed back to like new. Started filling it up with fresh fluid and no leaks! What are y'all using for modern equivalents of the recommended fluids: - Hydraulic: ISO 32? - Allison Transmission Fluid? Dexron III? - Engine Oil? SAE40 for the detroit? Hopefully I can get the shift cable in today along with finish filling the hydraulic tank and put a battery back in. I'll probably put the extra 4D I have in. It would be nice to fire her up and test the steering, hydraulics.
My 150FA came to me with ATF as the hyd. fluid, which seems to work fine. Its just a gear pump, so I don't think it matters much. The detroit should be a low ash straight weight oil.
I would suggest an AW (anti-wear) oil for the hydraulics. There is a motor for the boom swing and also for the winch and I would think those would benefit from more anti-wear additive than what a bottom shelf hydraulic fluid offers. A premium hydraulic oil wouldn’t be bad either but I don’t see that it would be a necessity. And if there are a lot of hydraulic leaks . . .
I was thinking AW 46 oil for the hydraulic system? Its what my Case 130 excavator uses.
For the Detroit, straight 40….not cheap, but what it needs: https://www.amazon.com/Rotella-CF-2-Motor-Diesel-Gallon/dp/B005IGNHDS/ref=asc_df_B005IGNHDS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693070740373&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6526407028667521475&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018782&hvtargid=pla-569800667963&mcid=b7053826a01932bb91d1ba2d7ece1a46&gad_source=1&th=1 Bob
Updates - Got the shifter cable back in, works like a charm. Finished filling hydraulic tank, reconnected the pump, put battery in and cleaned cup and put in new air filter. Fired right up and wow it was nice to be able to steer the think and shift. Moved it over to a different part of my yard and tested the functionality. Fast hoist works, rotate works, outriggers seem to go down but not up, I only tested the one partially. Crowd does extend the main boom cylinder but its not connected now and I need to put the pin back in. The cable for boom lift is stuck so I'm gonna try to free that up. Slow hoist doesn't seem to do anything... I need to study the manuals. My parts book doesn't show much about the internals of the 67839 pilot check/relief valve on the outriggers. The previous owners pulled out the pin / spring / cup in order to push two of the outriggers back up. Pretty cool the things works sorta
There are two hydraulic pumps on those machines, a 30 GPM and a 50 GPM pump. Slow hoist, outriggers, pedestal rotate, and rear steer are all on the lower output pump. For some reason I have to rev the engine to around 1500 RPM to get my slow pump functions to work. Not sure if it is supposed to be that way or if the pump is worn enough that it won’t make enough pressure at idle to pop the load check valves or whatever. Edit to add, for those that may not know, that the slow hoist and the fast hoist levers may be combined for max hoist speed.
Alright more updates. So I actually freed up the stuck boom lift cable just as I was about to remove it. Gearclash you were right, I just had to give the engine more throttle and the slow hoist and outriggers started coming up. Lifted the boom a bit, which was cool, and eased her back down. We got a squirter, sad to say the top of the main boom lift cylinder is leaking. Pretty bad. I have to raise the boom when the crane is in a better location (no overhead power) and see if I can at least hold it at a height cause then I could get most of what I need done with it for now. I guess if the piston seals are in better shape than the rod seals, it would hold pressure when raised. I'm surprised it's a double action cylinder given the weight of everything, but maybe the counterweight balances everything pretty well. Anyone ever rebuilt the big boy? I guess my two questions are: 1. If I raise the boom, what is the intended or safe way to secure the boom in order to extract the cylinder. 2. Is contractors crane the best source for these seals? I got price quotes and I'm wondering if there are industry standard seals, wear rings, etc so I could save some money.
Check Baum Hydraulics. They can probably fix you up. https://baumhydraulics.com/ 800-228-9222
A seal house can probably match the seals but being it's a crane may want to go with OEM seals. Hercules or Bulldog may have them as well.
Any of yal remove a rear driveshaft out of one of these? Mine has the 2 pieces that have spline connection in the middle that are bottomed out so you cant get the shaft assy removed from the crane. Its only about a foot long total, I guess im going to try and press the u joints out and see if that will do it.
Are these planetary hubs? Can I remove the inner 6 bolt flange plate to allow the axle to free wheel?
Got old glory up for the 4th! While firing up the machine, I jumped out to do a once over…..and noticed trans fluid pumping out the front of the crane! Made no sense until I realized the mechanical trans gauge in the cab is fed by a 1/8” nylon line at 270psi. Second time that line has let go in 10 years…..going to convert to copper. Having fun! Bob
I am looking for info on a Galion 150A hydro brake booster. Eg is it open center or close center? And what is the purpose of the 12 Volt device in the image? (They broke in and stole the wiring harness). Some detailed drawings perhaps? WhatsApp +27 (84) 767 7053
A good clutch and brake shop should be able to tell you.
Thank you! I will follow up.
is that an electrical boost? The hydraulic booster is entirely fluid/mechanical…..and they’re notorious for going bad. That might be a retro fit (I don’t have anything electric on my booster).
Not sure if this is it (been 10 years), but something like this: Galion Dresser Brake Booster -- 148701 Upgrade your braking power with the Galion Dresser Brake Booster -- 148701. Shop now for superior quality and performance. www.brokentractor.com
Its a emergency brake system. If the crane stalls, the 12v starter motor is supposed to start up when you push the brakes, so you can stop, even if the engine isn't running.
A little background. This Galion 150A was made in South Africa at the height of sanctions (circa 1980). The serial number is SAHC 212. Net effect of this is zero fixed tie up with Galion manuals and serial numbers. Thanks for all the comments above. I will approach this by going back to basics. I will report back here.
Very cool! can you post pics of your crane? Would love to see if they’re duplicate or different. Mine is a 1974 model. A friend of mine is a former P&H engineer…..and I asked at one point how they designed cranes like the Galion pre CAD/simulated stress analysis….his response ….”if it needed a 3/8” plate thickness, we went with 1/2”…..these old cranes were designed to last forever”.
Will do when I am done. This Galion has not moved in 6-8 years!
The big difference in ages of machine is generally what they used for engine. There's some with international, Detroits and late ones are Cummins 5.9's. I would be curious to know what powerplant yours has. I would bet that your machine wasn't entirely built in south Africa, likely some components were built elsewhere as "parts" and then it was assembled there. I'm thinking things like the planetary axles, engine, trans, winch were shipped in. Then welding the boom up, and frames, cabs, tanks, hoses, etc was probably domestic.
I bought this Galion 150A 26 years ago. Your comment is spot on. At the time the Germans were supporting South Africa in various ways. Eg, in the Army we had Mercedes Benz, MAN, Deutz and other equipment busting sanctions. So my Galion 150A has a Deutz straight six. Even to this day a VERY popular engine in South Africa. But like you are saying, the other parts were all imported. I will be stripping the hydroboost system on Monday. Looking forward to it!