Hello I'm new to this forum. I Just bought a 503 galion and am wondering if there are front scarifier mounts or something for a dozer blade or snow plow for these small graders? There's a flat plate with holes on the front. Does anyone know of a setup laying around in a scrap yard somewhere or a junk machine? Also any information about the machine would be appreciated as I've only operated newer much larger county graders. Also what is a reasonable priced tire that works good for these? It's a 10.00x20. Thanks this is an interesting forum!
The 503 is a nice machine but it has a few small quirks that I'd like to address. Do not idle in neutral for extended periods, the trans will not oil the upper two shaft bearings. If you notice one wheel isn't pulling, STOP and at least fish out the broken double 60 chain, it will break the other one and destroy the driven sprockets. Don't patch a broken chain, toss it and put in new, these are a weak design that went backwards from the G series 100 pitch chain. If you see a G, grab it for the finals and the 100 pitch sprocket. Where the drop arms are welded to the circle, if they aren't fish plated already where the little stiffener goes between the two at the curve, do it now. This will break and leave you with a bend slider to try and get straight again. To your question, yeah they exist but are scarce, try Equipment Salvage in Cambridge Oh. Bob may have one there. I know this is long winded but I've put a lot hours fixing and repowering these machines and want to pass it on. Oh, one more thing, AC D's and DD's use the same transaxle, aside from the engine bolt pattern. Whew!
I missed the tire question didn't I, the proper size is 8.25x20 bar lug tread. The only maker of these that I know of is Specialty Tires of America. If you use it in dirt it will make a huge difference in traction and make the machine really perform. Used on gravel roads the right tread won't matter quite as much. It was somewhat common to upsize tires on these machines because 1st gear was really too low to be of much use. If you have any more questions, fire away.
Another question There's a hydraulic leak coming from a control handle that isn't used for anything (I think) because it dead heads. Guy I bought it from gave me some new boots that go over the top of valve and are clamped to bottom of handle is there orings that blew out inside or will replacing boot hold it back? I Just got it so haven't looked to much into leak. Also what kind of clutch do these rigs have?
The boot is the only thing that holds the oil in, save some hassle and get some spring clamp pliers off a tool truck or make some with a die grinder and some slip joint pliers. The clutch is just a single disc dry plate. Find the zerk for the throw out bearing and give it a couple pumps.
Thank you for all the great information! That is a strange setup for the hydraulic valves isn't it? I Hope to use the valve that isn't used to operate the front scarifier. I Plan on calling down to see if there is a scarifier mount there again thanks for the awesome info.
Find the grease fittings where the drive tandems pivot on the transaxle housing. Many times these are overlooked and the fiber pivot bushing will lock up which will break off the 1/2" bolts that hold the tandem to the axle. BTW, which engine do you have, the UD or the Detroit?
I Believe it's an International engine similar to a 560 diesel Ag tractor. Runs good
When you get time, remove the trunnion caps that hold the lift cylinders in place and put grease fittings(1/4"x28) in all 4 sides of the cap. The 2 that are in the base aren't enough, the ball won't grease enough and will hang up in the socket which makes blade adjustment jumpy or worse a bent rod. Don't get carried away taking shims out either, a small amount of play is needed for grease and free movement, the same goes for the drawbar trunnion too, grease fittings and all. The UD-236 was a decent engine, just hard to start and smoky until it warmed up, a block heater is a must for those Michigan winter starts!
Well I'm still trying to figure out exactly which engine this machine has. Mine has a four cylinder and I think the 236 is a 6 cylinder? Mine does have an old style John Deere square glass fuel filter but it actually sounds very similar to our old Case dozer. No glow plugs either
I repowered a L several years ago with a 4236D John Deere from a LeRoi air comp. The company sold out to a competitor and everything went to auction. Describe the hyd. pump drive and I'll tell you if it is it.
Oops! Sorry, I mistyped in the engine size, 4239D is the proper size. Yes the UD-236 is a 6 cyl.
repower, I just picked up a 503L. Good little machine, but I am really trying to find out more info on it. I know it was a Washington DOT machine, but that's about it. It seems like it was taken pretty good care of. I did get one place to tell me they think it is a 74, but I have seen people saying they have a higher numbered machine that is older. I was hoping you could give me ay info I you might have on about it. I know I have the left rear tire not carrying its weight and need to look into that, when I looked into the box from the fill port though it looked like a single roller chain instead of a double??? I haven't had the time yet to pop open one of the inspection plates. S/N: 503 L IC 06525 Eng Nr: 236DU2U019588 Hrs: 5702.2 The engine does need some help, blow by is pretty bad, and I think Nr 1 injector I think is plugged. I can bleed it off at the pump, get good fuel coming out of the line, but as soon as I snug it up on the injector it seems to block off the flow and then the pump itself stops squirting fuel up the line to Nr 1. I have a 453 sitting around right now that I am toying with putting in it..... If there is anything you can think I of I should look at or check specifically, please let me know.
Mine has a Waukesha vrd40. I have no idea what years these things are. Maybe repowerguy will chime in. BKT tires were available 3 years ago if you need tires
He's got the u gly d uckling [UD-236], not a bad engine, but quirky and cold natured. A common problem is putting the injectors in upside down, hard to start, and white smoke like crazy. I was told by an old timer that grinding the valves is a bad idea because compression is marginal at best and grinding the valves lowers them and drops compression. I toyed with the thought of a turbo from a 4-BT fabricobbled on the UD manifold, a few PSI boost and the roller retainer leaf smashed flat on the old Roosa-Master pump. Would be fun while it lasted.
I had a 503A with a UD236 that was a 1969 model. The L series is a bit newer, I don't know the exact years, but in the 70's. FWD
Thank you. Yes it's a D236. I pulled the injectors a week ago and sent them to the shop. #1 wasn't firing, and when I pulled them, they were all dripping. I was told by one place it's a 74, but I have doubts from seeing other machines serial numbers.
Since you mentioned a 4-53 Detroit. I’m working on the old wood processor and it has a Detroit. Not sure what it is. Any ideas?
From that pic I would have to say a 3-53. If you got the numbers off of it, they would tell you for sure. https://swiftequipment.com/finding-detroit-diesel-engine-serial-number/
There’s numbers on the valve cover. They didn’t make any sense with the breakdowns I found on the web
Valve cover model# 4029-c Unit #4A-64651
On the inline motors you have to use the numbers on the rear passenger side area
Here
5111433 which only the first number makes sense. 53 series. It’s not an 11 cylinder! But that’s good enough for what I needed to know. Thanks
Do you have a pic of the number area, something with that number seems off
It’s behind the blower intake
That's not the right number, it's a stamped number on a machines section of the block, not a cast number.
Do you know anything about 103 Model Galion Graders? The one I'm looking at has an RD450 Engine
Sorry but no, mostly 503's and T500's.
Hi repowerguy, I'm helping a buddy longdistance, who's in PA. He just bought a 503, no idea what year...I'm thinking somewhere around 1960-1962, S/N 503-GI-3776. It still has the original IH UB-220, which he removed to freshen up. When he took it out, he found that the bellhousing had been packed full of mouse nests...the grader had been sitting for the better part of over 20 years. It did fire up and was able to move, although the pressure plate is completely frozen, so he wants to order a new one. The problem is, with me being out in Idaho and doing this by phone and email with him, he doesn't know what brand, size or model clutch kit to order. We have the IH UB-200 service and parts manuals, but the clutch kit they show doesn't look like what he has. Who made the 4-spd manual transmissions for Galion? In my research, I've seen Clark mentioned. I just don't want him wasting his money and time ordering a bunch of different clutch kits to see what fits. Is it an 11" clutch? The IH parts manual also lists two options for the bellhousing, S.A.E. 3 and S.A.E 4....the Galion 503 had the S.A.E. 4, correct? Thanks for all your help, I appreciate it greatly. -Fred
Diesel Creek That pressure plate reminded me of the ones in my scout. Rockwell if I can remember right. If there is a friction company he can take it to they can match it up pretty easily. We have a place in Portland that I use from time to time for stuff like that call Otts Friction.
Yep, Matt's grader. It definitely looks like a Rockford to me, I just want to be sure, before I tell him to pull the trigger. I think the closest place near him is actually in Baltimore. They guarantee that they can rebuild anything. Matt said that the springs are completely toast. IIRC, that assembly can be taken apart, right?
I’m pretty sure it’s a Rockford, but to be honest we always reused the old one, or use a takeoff from a parts grader. It is a Clark transaxle that’s a SAE 4. BTW, a AC D grader uses the same transaxle but with a solid input shaft and a AC specific bell housing bolt pattern. The tandem chain cases while rectangular on the AC and oval on the Galion are oval, will interchange. Hint hint.
Thanks for the confirmation, I greatly appreciate your help. Just to be clear, the Rockford clutch and pressure plate are 11", correct?
I’m pretty sure, but I’m not certain.
Hi. I have a Galion 503L with a dozer blade I am thinking about selling the dozer off of the front. I do not use it because I have a TD7c Dozer I do all that work with. The dozer is a complete unit and the hydraulics work as they are supposed to. I will sell the blade, the hydraulic ram, all linkage and mounting hardware. Everything on the front end. Not the controls or the steel hydraulic line from the front where the cylinder hooks to the line. Make me an offer? I will consider it. John Mitchell [email protected]
Galion 503
If you want a dozer blade I am selling the one on the front of my Galion 503 series L. 2,500.00 for the blade, linkage, hydraulic cylinder, nuts, bolts if you remove or 3,000.00 if I remove. If you remove you may use my shop to work in. I can load you out. Contact John Mitchell: [email protected] . Or if you want the grader with the dozer blade it is 12,800.00 as is where is shipping is your responsibility. I will help with loading. Grader is 10 miles +/- north of Fort Myers, Florida 33982 John Mitchell
Does anyone have a part number for the brake shoes on a 503, or a good measurement for the brake drum diameter?
I have about a 1975 503L SN GM06886. Has a 353 Detroit from factory. I can look up part number if need be but we ordered 13 inch from napa.when they came in were too small so brake is 14 inch.
A part number would be awesome if you had it. I spent a couple hours dealing with napa trying to find the right ones.
Can't you have the pads themselves replaced by a local brake shop? That's what I did on my Allis Chalmers M65 blade.
The casings have to be in decent enough shape to be able to put new linings on them.....