Finally a post after plenty of lurking - just couldn't dig up any clues on this one. I appreciate you joining our headscratching. My neighbour's 2009 Gehl 4640 has an electrical issue and we don't quite know where to go next. Good condition, low hours, intermittent farm use, otherwise running good. It starts up and idles normally, but soon pops the #1 breaker and dies. On a cold start it will run several minutes before dying, but on subsequent starts it will only run 30 - 60 seconds before popping. However, if you start it up and then lift the restraint bar, it does not die but instead idles away happily. If I watch voltage at the #1 breaker, it looks normal (around 13.4V running) when the restraint bar is up, but when we lower the restraint bar it instantly drops to 12 - 12.5V. With the restraint bar down, you can see the battery warning light glowing very dimly before it pops the breaker. We have watched the interlock control module LEDs but don't see anything strange going on. So we suspect that some component is shorting, but we're confused by the delay before it pops and not sure what to test next. We do have the shop manual & electrical schematics and I can post them if that helps. Any thoughts are much appreciated!
Have you or your neighbor taken voltage readings at the seat and safety bar switches? Those switches are common failure points on a lot of skid steers because they get used a lot and are subjected to harsh environments (and mfgrs seem to often use cheap-looking switches there). At least find and look at those switches, take voltage readings there (ohm across the switches) and start tracing the wiring back from that point at least from a starting point, try to see if you can determine what's on that fuse circuit. Check the wiring closely because it sounds like a wire might have gotton rubbed through and possibly shorting out. I've also read that one some newer Gehls, two things: There were a good number of units where the wiring where the harness entered the cab could result in a lot of broken wires (vibration??), so check there .....and, there is a delay timer relay on some, interlocked with the brakes which looks like a 2" square plastic cube by that would fail on a lot of machines. It had to do with being bolted down ...or tightened too much, so if you trace it back to that, unbolt that part and leave the new one hang loose. Maybe it gets vibrated too much which causes it to flake out (??). That delay relay almost sounds like it could fit into your description of the problem. There is also the possibility of the control module too, but check the other stuff first. Hopefully someone here can supply a wiring diagram, but it may be worth a trip to the dealer to get a copy of one from the parts counter (hopefully??). I've had good luck poking my head in the back doors and kindly describing a problem to a mechanic if he's run into a certain problem and usually they've run into the same situation and can give you a quick fix, or coach you through what might be on that circuit. Worth a shot, just don't waste their time, be short and courtious about it.
Don't forget to post back the solution once you or your neighbor finds the problem ...for the benefit of other owners. Thanks!
Thanks for chiming in Jeepwalker. Great ideas; I'll check them out and post back. We do have the wiring diagrams, and a couple things you mention are along the circuit. The problem breaker is 20A and goes through 'restraint bar switch', 'seat switch', and 'park brake switch'. It also goes through 'ride control', 'float', '2 speed high' and 'park brake', maybe through switches/buttons? -- those connections look like a U inside a U on the diagram. We ruled out the breaker itself by wiring it through a fusible link, which blew. I'll get down there and chase some more wires and look for the delay relay and get back on here.
Chased the short back today - it was the lift solenoid. While we had the key on for 10 minutes watching voltage and unplugging harnesses it got so hot it was smoking and melting the plastic. Easy to locate at that point!
Where abouts is that relay located ...what color. Just curious. Thanks,
This one is the cut-out solenoid for the lift and tilt hydraulics. It's mounted inside the right sidewall once you lift the cab, about midway. Hydraulic line goes into a steel block, and the stem and black, round solenoid are mounted on it. I'll snap a shot when I'm putting in the replacement - could be a few days.
That would be good, I was just curious. Is it supposed to kill the engine if the hydraulics are over-exterted?
No, sounds like someone "adjusted" your relief valve
No, doesn't kill engine, it is a solenoid valve on the hydraulic line that opens when it has 12V and closes when voltage is cut out, so it locks out the flow to lift and tilt when operator presence or safety bar switches are disconnected by physically closing the hydraulic line. Nothing adjusted screwed it up -- it was just that the plastic exterior on the coil cracked and it was shorting to the body steel. I am waiting to get the part, but it will be a week or two. I'll still post that picture when I get to the job.
Hello, I have the same problem with a GEHL 4840. Can you explain me the role of this solenoid valve more exactly? Thanks
Dos any one have a wiring Schematic for a model# SL4640 serial# 306556 that they can share having a no crank issue at starter switch but will crank over if jump starter solenoid and or use a jumper from the key switch to the starter pin on the starter solenoid having issues with what wire gos where as the oem loom is a pain to deal with with out cutting it open