I never knew undercarriage work could be so easy. Holes tapped, rust cleaned off, bolts polished, ready to go back together. This side already done. Might as well re-bush the equalizer beam while we're at it.
Man, that is quite the serious winter project. We are talking about doing the same to a Deere 550G this winter. Bushings are shot, pads are good though. Wish we had that nice heated shop to do the work in like you do. Then it would probably get done.
This is the second big project this winter. Just got the Challenger out of the shop last week. New seals on the pivot shaft, new pins/bushings in the minor pivots, all new bottom rollers.
Sure makes them easy to work on when they're inverted...and on a heated shop floor.
In the process of doing pad swap on d6t. Using hytork battery gun makes it easy.
Only a farmer would reuse roller bolts. Bob
I'm not a farmer, lol. But, your statement is noted. I really don't have a good reason for not getting new ones besides they came right out and looked fine.
That’s some heavy metal madness!
back in the 70 s i worked for the Cat dealer for a year . The bulk of our work was for Utah Mines. I welded out so many broken roller bolts and replaced front roller pockets on D9 tractors , id never put an undercarriage back together without new bolts, unless it was mine and i was working out in my back 40.
Round 2. And yes, Bob, this time I'm using new roller bolts.
My Case 450c needs new bottom rollers this winter and honestly I’m dreading it. They are original so they haven’t been touched since 1987. I know most of the bolts will probably shear off then I’ll be pulling the track frames...
How many hr on your 210?
5400. It has a lot of miles on it. Last time I looked, it has around 1200 hours clocked in travel time. My PC290 with 3000 hours on it has only 250 hours of travel time.
It makes the job so much easier pulling the track frames and turning them upside down. If any bolts break they are easy to access and weld nuts to or drill out.
I got mid 80s Komatsu D20 dozer and I just replaced the bottom rollers on mine and i hit them all with some penatraiting oil PB blaster for 2 days then hit them with my cordless Ridgid 1/2in impact and all the bolts came out and most looked fairly new as in no rust on them and they were original due to bolt markings, Komatsu uses their own inhouse bolts so should go pretty well I would think on your end
I’ve never bought new roller bolts on any D4 to D9 tractor I’ve ever owned in 30 years Bob. Allways replaced idler bolts though
If you go after those bolts like you don't have to get them out the first day, you'll probably do okay. Use oil like PB blaster suggested above. Heat up the track frame near the bolts with a rose bud. It draws the oil up into the offending threads. It doesn't take much heat to move penetrating oil. Then go away and leave it alone. If you're a Monday - Friday guy let it hang out over the weekend.
If the bolts are tight and have a washer I can't see how penetrating oil can get wicked upwards into the threads even with heat. There would have to be at least a slight space for the penetrating oil to get in or the bolts slightly loosened. Beating the bolts with a hammer before trying to loosen them can help. The heat can certainly help though. If the track frames were channel iron and you could apply penetrating oil on top of the bolts would have a better chance of getting into the threads.
That's why they call it penetrating oil, it is magic. Several times I have sen it crawl to the top of something, given time.
I can understand that if there's at least a tiny space for the penetrant to get in. Everything sucked tight and flush I can't see it.
I've replaced them when the heads are worn enough that you have to pound the next smaller size socket on to take them out. It also doesn't help that most people here weld a bar to each bolt head trying to keep them from coming loose.
Wow that's a great idea! Should get another thousand hours out of them. Lol
Actually the strap or bar trick helps protect the hex head from abrasion from rocks etc. Just torch and grind the weld and the socket goes, that is if the weld is on top the bolt head.