Have a weeping bottom roller on my 210 It’s an Original roller in very good condition considering a 26 year old machine, spins with resistance like all the other rollers, estimate u/c at 60% across the machine. They don’t make seal kits for this machine anymore and new is big $$ for what it is. Have been recommended both moly grease or a 30 weight oil. Have also seen a grease (forget the name) that mixes with oil to form a hybrid. Any standard method for this repair strategy? cheers
lift up the machine with the bucket, crib on top of track to the frame to get clearance and set it back down on the cribbing. Go get new roller assembly and install. I hit the end of the bolts where I can get to them with PB blaster. I got the bolts off my 120 with a cheater pipe.
new roller or pump it full of grease. If its a low use machine the grease roller will last for years. High use just get a new assembly.
I suspect it is less than $150 for an assembly. Measure your time against the price.
Machine is low use, all I want to know is advice on what to fill the roller with. There’s no way I could get one in this country being my location for that price.
that's a bummer. I think the ones I put on the 120 were around 100. I did three, and now have another leaker. I am a firm believer on replacing only what is broken, and did not get a whole set.
I would be inclined to drill and tap a hole for a zerk fitting, and load the roller up with grease. The center of the roller would be my first choice for a zerk location, but only if the metal is soft enough to drill and tap. The hole could be closed with a plug, and a zerk fitting installed only when it is time for a lube. Depending on the roller design, you may find that the roller center is solid, and a zerk fitting would be needed on both ends. If you can place the grease where it is needed in that roller, it could remain in service for a very long time.
There’s a plug on one side to top up oil so it must be one cavity. I have a ‘dirk-spear’ to inject grease, I can get it in about 4 inches so I’ll just jam as much in there as possible.
Sorry, meant to write ‘zerk spear’
Is it difficult to ship or mail small things to Oz these days? I shipped a gent over by Alice Springs a pair of hubs for an antique truck several years back and really didn't have problems. It did take about three weeks for him to see the parts however. I didn't set up the shipping so really don't know. I just packaged and dropped the box at a FedEx location in Peoria, IL. Couldn't someone over here help you out by purchasing the parts and shipping to you as a personal item?
Without going into too much detail, due to the diabolical situation in the country right now brought on by our inept political class, the national mail/postage service is nearly at a stand-still. I’m rural Western Australia and waited 9 weeks to receive a hydraulic cylinder from Adelaide and currently still waiting for a hydraulic plate to come from Melbourne that got ordered over 3 weeks ago. Our state borders are like those which ran the length of the former ussr. It’s normal for international mail to first go to Sydney or Melbourne first before getting distributed across the country so I wouldn’t even try a guess at this stage how long it could take.
I think it will last a very long time pumped up with grease I im guessing in your generally warm climate any grease will work I would tend to use corn head grease if it was mine which is probably the hybrid type you mentioned which is a 00 weight made for leaky gearboxes that usually take oil I would never replace it when it still rolls
If you do fill it with grease, a marine grade wheel bearing grease would be a good choice. IMHO. It is designed to be water resistant.
They use a lot of "Corn Head" grease on combine, and some harvester service routines. Basically anything that has direct contact with foodstuffs. While it will work in a place where NGLI-2 grease is used, it doesn't remain near as long as it's shear strength is substantially less. It however does not have the poisonous ingredients used in it's manufacture a lot of lubricating greases do. Yes, it will substantially improve the viscosity of oil as it readily mixes and becomes a "slurry". Should you do this, Ensure you have oil in the cavity, then pump the cavity full of grease, run it a few hours, then pump the cavity full again, then repeat yet again. You want the entire cavity a "firm, but sliding" lubricant just thick enough to not leak, but flow for the constant contact of the friction surfaces the oil would normally do. In theory, (and I've seen it work) worn sealing surfaces can be used in service much longer but you'll need to keep a watchful eye on it. The trick is basically to improve the viscosity of the oil to the point it no longer leaks, but still lubricates.
‘Track rollers In Earthmoving equipment’ ……….apparently this is the stuff. .
I would assume that is what you would use if the existing oil were purged from the cavity beforehand, then that product used as a complete replacement. "Corn Head" grease is much the same as NGLI-2 grease in that is packaged just the same but the characteristics are slightly less viscous. It is also a light brown color but a lot more to the clear, than dark.
Should do you just great !