Hey guys, I'm looking for an old hydraulic body for a grove Mobile crane
Any advice on where to find one would be greatly appreciated.
Grove should have one. It’s most likely a Parker valve but it’ll be a captured part meaning you can only buy it from grove. I don’t know who your grove dealer would be. But I’ll bet you that valve is on a shelf in their warehouse. call your dealer with the model and serial #’s. It’ll be expensive but if your wanting to replace the whole valve that’ll be the easiest route.
Thank you, I’ve tried but the machine is too old to find a new. I’m looking for used or another hydraulic valve to retro fit on our machine.
Whats wrong with the old one?
The old one is leaking past the o-rings at the individual slices of the valve body. The o-ring seats have broke due to over tightening the valve body.
We have a machine shop at our disposal but the valve body is made of hardened steel.
Open to all suggestions, thank you. And if anyone knows where we can find a used we would really like that.
Which one of the sectors is cracked?
The middle section is for second winch, which it appears you don’t have. If the third section which goes to the winch is the one cracked, you can pull that section out and use the good one and just shorten the stack one section
Any 700b series either Rt or Tms mid 90’s early 2000’s should use that same pilot control. The later 500 and 700e’s may use it with the I’ll look at mine. It’s just pilot control, you may have to do a little fitting adapting
yessir that is for a auxilary hoist that we dont have. All three sections are leaking from the 0-ring seats.
I appreaciate that Crane Operator, I'll try to find something from those series today. Yessir, I believe youre right with a little retro fitting it should do fine.
I can’t see how you could have all the sections cracked, unless it was full of water and froze, but I sure haven’t seen everything.
You have to look at the O-Ring seats, look closely at each O-Ring, I can circle and repost if you don’t see. Zoom in on the individual pictures in the post that show the ports, and they haven’t cracked due to freezing but due to over-tightening the valve body together.
I wasn’t doubting that they are cracked, I just amazed that the overtightening would crack all the sections. I doubt I could see the cracks on my phone. I would have thought once any section cracked, it would have relieved the tension, and the crack would stop at the first one that cracked, not getting all the sections.
Yessir, that lip is so incredibly thin and it sits lo but not too low so that the OA-ring can sit out enough to make contact and seal tight so the first thing to go is those little lips.
Could the sections be repaired on a lapping machine and the o-ring grooves be cleaned up? With the right tooling hardened steel can be machined. The valve was machined when it was made.
Hey Welder Dave, I appreciate that, I don't think so because the seat is gone in someplaces where it has cracked of from the section and is completely missing, I know the picture doesn't probably show it because the O-Ring is covering it up. But keep the ideas coming!
How about a copper oring? Not oem but maybe something like a copper ring on a banjo fitting? I believe those monoblock hydraulic valves are cast iron and could be machined but it would change the dimensions of the stack and make hose connections a pain. Also thought maybe it could be sleeved inside so the oring doesnt get mashed in and leak? Not really sure if its leaking cause of oring failure of a crack near the oring seats?
Who told you the valve body was hardened steel? Can you file it with a new file? That valve body looks repairable to me. Seeing the damage makes me think someone tried to reseal the valve with oversized orings.
Similar to what Crane Operator said - If you can find the same body casting you could always swap over the other parts. I would use a good straight edge to see how flat the sections are. But for root cause I'm not buying the over torque theory. The rest of the block surface would have to crush - isn't happening. What's much more likely is that at the o-rings are (or where) too large and when compressed they pushed the overly thin inner groove walls out. ISZ
Terex Herder, I'm pretty sure it's hardened steel, When I had it off I believe I tried to take a file to it. Any recommendation on how to repair the seats?
Thank you, Oh I see, you're saying instead of it being overtighened and the O-ring seats cracking, they actually cracked due to an oversized O-Ring being installed, interesting, I have never thought of that! The originial post states that we are looking for replacement sections for this valve body with no success so far, If you have any leads on where to find anything concerning this valve body, new or used, we would greatly appreciate it!
Do you have the part #
I was thinking that. A Part Number will help others to help you look for a replacement valve.
The originial post states that we are looking for replacement sections for this valve body with no success so far, If you have any leads on where to find anything concerning this valve body, new or used, we would greatly appreciate it![/QUOTE] Sorry, I thought you said you tried to find the whole valve assy and/or section. ISZ
If you have the hydraulic schematic for the machine's hydraulic system you might be able to replace that block with a newer one. Looks to be a inlet outlet section with a pressure relief, 2 pilot operated valve sections and a end cap. I used to have a Gresen hydraulic valve almost like yours. Prince, Gresen, parker, all make a modular stack valve similar. Would want to know the flow rate before finding a replacement. New could be cheaper than a old replacement with old seals and the same problem you already have. Baileys, or surplus center might be good to look at too.
Following with Vetech, is damned near to impossible to overtighten damage any of that, except with incorrect orings. Try posting part numbers on Machinery Trader parts request, has to be someone will have these.
Hard or not hard, doesn't matter. I'd make a spud between the sections to make up for the broken inner wall on the two round ports. The slight reduction on diameter will be insignificant. If there is enough meat on the mating part I'd make a new, larger round o ring path for the square port. The new path doesn't need to be centered on the port.