Grove RT528C Anyone know if the transmission/air swivel joint manifold can be removed without removing main hoist hydraulic cylinders. I have red transmission fluid coming out into air system and have narrowed it down to the swivel joint. I already ordered the seal kit, just now preparing for the headache. I'm just not sure if I can just put the boom at a particular angle to remove can and still have enough room to place new seals on. Much appreciate everyone's advice!
Do you have access to remove it with the boom up?
I moved the boom as far up and down to see the best angle, but I'm in high doubt that I can lift the cylinder straight up, after removing the wires of course. I was going to get started, but I talked to a Grove equipment mechanic and he said sometimes they have to put the boom leaning against a metal pillar/stand to move the main hydraulic lift cylinders. I don't think they remove the cylinders, but just take out the upper pins and tilt them forward. I don't think there's much room to even put the seals on once removed, even if I could get the rational manifold cylinder off. Also, I don't have a backup crane or tractor to set the pin back in if it moves a bit. The pictures show the rectangular cover of the rotary commutators in between the two cylinders. The transmission/air swivel is right below it, then the hydraulic swivel is below that. But I'm just looking to remove the transmission/air swivel.
If the boom is most of the way up, you could possibly cable between the extension cable anchor point and back on the uprights by the winch, locking the boom up like it had a set of pendant lines. Then you could remove the pins on the upper end of the boom cylinders, and retract them, then tip them forward. You could also put a flat plate on the top of the block , reeve up with a 4 part and two block the old girl, if its steel sheaves. But I wouldn't recommend it. I never have any luck resealing swivels without pulling the whole swivel out of the crane. Get it out on a bench where you can guide the new seals up in and pull it together with a piece of all thread. And I wouldn't do just the trans/ air, it would all get resealed, its not that much more work, and it will save you having to go back. the air side is the one that tends to go bad, they have moisture in the air system, it corrodes the can portion of the swivel. Plan on a honing of the barrel, and you may have to either weld it up and turn it back down, or replace it if the corrosion is bad enough.
Shackle into the bracket or something up at the top, you may be able to go to the top jib attachment points also. Then go back and shackle to the frame hole by the winch. Put the upper cables on when boomed down, then boom it up and hook the winch side. Do both sides. And do it just below max boom angle, so you can put the boom cylinders back in, then boom it up a little more to slack the "pendant" lines.
The local dealer gave me their input too, of course with a quote, but even they sounded nervous doing it. All their horror stories like you mentioned "crane operator" where pitting on barrel was drastic. But for sure they mentioned dropping the whole swivel down underneath. I'm going with a quick fix on this one. I'm capping the 4 air lines on the swivel and pulling them on the outside with slinky coil D.O.T. air lines. They just can't turn the crane more than like 270deg. The only line I couldn't find was where the 1/4" air-pressure gauge line goes to on the underside of the swivel. I was thinking that it's tied to the pressure line in the swivel, but not sure yet. I was going to put a tee for it on the outside, and therefore use 4 lines instead of 5. It's the main air supply, parking brake, forward service brake and rear service brake all on 3/8 tube, + (pressure gauge 1/4 line).