Never have seen him that I remember but he asks for the "******* owner" that fixed his daughter's car. By the smirk on his face I could tell he was up to something. He then tells me he is a younger brother to a very good friend and we both got a good laugh. His name is Stan and his brother, (my buddy) is Les. Stan tells me Les put him up to it so all good. Also told him I'd come right back with a disrespectful comment too. Purpose of his visit is that he had this small, (50 GL) diesel tank, 12VDC pump and auto shutoff nozzle he no longer needed and it was mine if I could make use of it: Hope I got enough meat in the remains of the bed to bolt it down to but it works well and has about six, or seven gallons of fuel in it now that smells usable. Wouldn't take any money for it at all.
Nice..!! Before you use any of the fuel, pump some in a GLASS jar or cup and let it sit for about 3-5 days.. to see if it separates.. It’ll keep you outta trouble.. Nice score tho..
That reminds me I have about 80 gal of off road fuel which has some water in it been thinking how to easily separate it any good ideas
Pump guy has the easiest and least expensive solution. I have a three gallon glass dill pickle jar I've used for that purpose in the past and if there is water it will separate. Faster if you slightly elevate the temperature. I have used the kitchen stove and it really pisses my wife off but she gets over it. Now that carburetor cleaning on the kitchen table; not so much..... Many times if you leave the last couple inches in the storage vessel you will not pick up the water as it will be lower than that as long as not agitated. I probably won't burn this fuel in an engine. It is probably a few years old and most likely to be used starting a burn pile alight in reality. Old diesel/gasoline mix and a couple quarts of used engine oil work very well to get wet stuff drying out.
80 gallons.!! Water will separate to the bottom and the fuel will be on top.. if u have a petcock on the bottom, that’s the easiest way..
I had to tell one of our customers his 2000 gallons of fuel was no good due to algae/water contamination
You can strip out those contaminants with filtration but it will remove the red dye also, (aw shucks I say).
I have several 55 gallon barrels with water contaminated fuel in them, I plan to put everything in one barrel and then wait till the northeaster blows. The water will settle and should freeze, then I can pour the fuel of the top. I think it should work.
On dirty jobs they scooped snow covered diesel into tanks that would, I think, heat the diesel and raise it up and it would flow over to the next tank until 4 tanks down the line there was no more water.
I've used this transfer tank a couple of times after flushing it with both gasoline, and diesel fuel, then filling equipment with diesel. Only done five gallons at at time and drove around a bit to slosh any contaminants into suspension. Yesterday I had the fuel guy stop by the shop and fill this tank full. I then filled my skid steer, and zero turn mower full from the transfer tank. He then filled the transfer tank again to the top. The balance of the 150 gallons went into my bulk tank at the shop. This is to allow an overnight sit on clean concrete to see if any leaks before going into service with it. I don't see anything under the truck so the transfer tank integrity must be good. I'll pump this fuel into the dozer this afternoon and go from there. $3.67 a gallon for red premium diesel fuel delivered yesterday in winter blend. This is not bio-diesel crap which is all you can get at the gas station pumps in this area. I have another bulk tank so going to have both on, and off road fuel in bulk storage. Rooting around the shop yesterday I ran across my pallet of seven "Reelcraft" hose reels from one of my former "Quick-Lube" shops. I closed this facility several years ago but retained the infrastructure with intent of another location, but life...... Going to install a new 20' section of hose onto one of these reels that is spring rewind and this will be a nice addition. The existing hose is only about 12' in length and stiff from age and sun exposure. It doesn't leak, nor is cracking, but it it kind of stiff to coil back up. The additional length would be welcome also.
Three minutes 42 seconds to pump this small tank down to sucking air from full to the filler neck bung. If a 50 gallon tank and say the pickup tube is two gallons shy of complete empty, (no idea but distant from the tank bottom for certain) that equates to about 12.8 gallons per minute fluid movement. Not bad and a not a long drawn out process to fuel remotely from the shop or a station. Definitely need more hose length however as I had to be right against the back of the tractor standing in the bed to reach and fuel. Happy though however it's looked at. Dozer holds 100 gallons but I've never had it full. The dipstick shows it to be just over 1/2 full so will top it off tomorrow or the next day. I have two former home heating oil 275 gallon tanks which are going to be pressed into service for bulk on road, and off road fuels. Have a round 100 gallon barrel mounted on an elevated stand I'll probably bulk a little non ethanol gasoline in also. I run this in all the small engines and motorcycle. Definitely a savings to be had if purchasing in bulk over retail at the pump pricing with both gasoline, and diesel fuels. Where I'll set this "tank farm" will give easy access for the fuel truck also. On top of that, a bit of motivation to clean the place up..... Driver asks I call him the night before wanting delivery as he fuels the truck in the early morning to ensure he loads enough on to cover my delivery. 100 gallon minimum drop of any mixture of products to help control their costs. That is fair I feel.
I will update this a bit. I ordered a new 20' section of fuel hose, auto shutoff nozzle, and a couple of swivels for the hose. I built up the small tank and it works well. Dragged out a surplus spring rewind "ReelCraft" hose reel formerly used to pump engine oil through, but it is only 1/2" so the fuel hose is too large. I will purchase another reel at some point. I also repositioned the tank fill bung, and the pump making the pump closer to the outer bedside of the truck. I think, and am not totally certain this positioning will work better but I do need to upsize the power cord supplying the unit. It doesn't get hot during operation but is warm to the touch. I think it has 14/2AWG SJO cord feeding it and I have some 12/2 SOOW I'll replace it with along with an inline fuse or breaker as there is no protection now. The original supplied alligator clips will be replaced also. Hose reel thought could be used: Swivel for fuel hose at nozzle end: New hose built up and installed: Relocated filler bung and dispensing pump:
These are the replacement alligator clamps to be used. They are rated at 100A and solid copper:
Lol I think the pump and fill is backwards now as you have to get in the bed to fill it and you could turn it on and off with a stick or the nozzle, everybody has different ways
I can't decide if wanting to have the tank on the other side of the bed or not is another variable. With the shorter original fuel hose, 12', I didn't have enough reach so wanted to try the different approach. It likely will go back as original as once a reel is incorporated the placement will be better for easier filling outside the truck.
I wired up power today for a small temporary tank with brand new clips, they look just like your only cheap metal and 25 amp rated. Pump was froze so I'll have to wait till like Tuesday to use it.
Going to need to switch the filler bung and pump back as original. I typically have my little generator with me and the exhaust exits to the right as you look at the face. The exhaust would blow onto the side of the fuel tank if positioned on the other side. Right now the exhaust blows onto the interior bed side but there is about a six inch gap so nothing to worry about. Showed those earlier photos to a farmer I know who tells me he has a full width fuel tank of this style for use with a cross bed tool box I can have if usable to me. No pump included and I need to measure the ledge it has to ascertain whether my little generator could sit on it rather than the bed floor in now occupies. That little 3kw generator travels most everyplace with me but was not in the photos as I was replacing the starting battery.
There's long and short ones of the L tanks, make sure it's not too long for your bed, Ive been caught a couple of times with that lol
I'll have to measure. Don't want to take something I can't/wont use.
This full width "gift" tank will work in the application needed so going to grab but may wait to install. The existing tank I have is a Delta and either 51, or 52 gallons according to the internet. This other one measures close to the depth, and height of my existing tank, but is longer of course so arbitrarily speaking, a bit over 100 gallons capacity. Want to see if I can find some kind of a "deck box" to set onto the recess of this longer tank so the space in the bed is not wasted. If I can find something that will fit between my center positioned generator and the bedside, and is leakproof, I could have the interior space of the cab back which would be welcome.
A 100 gallon might not work with your bed and ball if it's a L tank
It appears to be the same brand and is close to the same depth front to back as mine. There is plenty of room between the front of the tank, (short vertical rise) and the ball for connecting. I'm calling the back of the tank the part butting against the bed front panel, and the front closest to the gooseneck ball in the bed. That little generator will set on the recess of the "L" shape well but I'll need to affix it somehow which may be just a strap, or two.
We've used an L tank in the bed of a pickup with a gooseneck ball for 20 years, never been a problem. Maybe if a guy had one of those new 5.5' short beds it would be an issue.
It depends on the tank and the bed. My work truck (not mine) they got a 100 gallon for it and it's going to cover up the ball, instead of getting the correct tank we are just going to remove the ball which is stupid but at least we don't use the ball much. Truck is just a regular short bed. The tank I bought for my truck the 60 gallon was sold out so I bought the 90 and it was too wide to fit in-between the wheel wells, $200 and a welder later it did, now it's the same size as the 60. Always measure.
Agree; but I've never had a short bed truck. These tanks actually fit right up to the interior wheel arches leaving about an inch between each bedside and about six inches from tank sidewall to bed interior sidewall. I think with the little RV generator I carry there will be about 24" to 26" of clearance between the hose reel, and the generator enclosure I can sneak a deck box into and that will make use of the entire "L" section of the tank.
Good deal and when you get the tank cheap or free it doesn't matter much. If your buying it new I'd get a short bed one just for conversion or resale unless you really need the extra 40 gallons, they are also typically $200 cheaper too. Tank and a toolbox in a short bed makes the bed not hold much anymore but most trust are short beds nowadays.
Dozer has the largest fuel tank of any equipment I own and that holds 100 gallons. Where the machine will be kept is remote so fuel will need transported to it and I think this will work better than the smaller tank requiring two trips. I don't really have any seat time in the tractor yet so cannot portray any realistic consumption rates, but this will carry enough to top off the tractor and possibly a farm tractor there with less running for fuel. May, or may not be accurate at this writing and time will allow baseline(s) establishment.
Attempting to get a couple of snapped fasteners extracted from an aluminum casting. Got the fasteners drilled through and now soaking in 50/50 atf acetone mix. Tried steady pressure while impacting the side and shocking the fastener but no joy so far. A GasBoy pump given to me for use on my bulk tank. Pump and totalizer work well moving fuel so may as well repair the broken fasteners to ensure weather tight integrity. I've had this 1/4" Milwaukee drill almost 50 years and only use it for pilot drilling as easy to hold and not variable speed: Two drilled fasteners. Although doesn't look it from photo, both holes are centered through their fasteners: In a pinch the old 1845C fender serves as a workbench nicely:
Can't get those snapped fasteners extracted for nothing. Going to purchase a different type extractor set tomorrow that you hammer down into the drilled hole and they dig into the fastener. I've tried the screw types, and the four blade types with no results. If they don't come loose with this other type, I'll core them and use a "Helicoil" in the aluminum casting as I'm tired of fu*king with it at this time. I went ahead and mounted the pump onto the tank with a draw tube 1/2" from the bottom, and mounted up the new filter base, and water separating filter. Need to grab a galvanized 3/4" NPT elbow tomorrow and then attach the new fuel hose and auto shutoff nozzle: Used this blue pipe dope rated for fuels: Just because I couldn't bring myself to use teflon tape that was obviously "Feminine Rated":
I don’t have extensive experience but I center drilled a broken exhaust manifold bolt nicely (luck). No broken bolt tool worked. I then went up in bit size until I saw evidence of the internal threads in the manifold. I then was able to use a pick and similar tools to pry what was left of the stud threads away from the internal threads. I recently have seen a machinist demo this in a mill.
Put some heat into that casting around the broken stud, heat breaks up the alloy corrosion bond very quickly. Hit it with some panther pee as it's cooling to help break the bond with a variation in expansion/contraction. I like the Ridgid screw extractors with the tapered sides, they don't keep expanding the stud as you try to unscrew it, unlike the "reverse thread" type of extractors.
I've tried heat a couple of times along with high frequency vibration as rotational force applied while cooling and applied "panther pizz" a couple of times. Don't want to abuse it as the end bell for the motor is not available for this style so remaining a bit ginger in force. The snapped fasteners are not bottomed. Holes I bored are centered through them and are clear through. I can go through them with a larger twist drill coring them out easily, but want to attempt one final extraction with these new tools. Also have a couple of snapped stainless fasteners through the aluminum cover in a foot pedal switch on my manlift basket to remove, so going to purchase the complete set rather than a single tool. Fought this similar battle with my 62 Mack B-673 tractor a few years ago extracting the steel brake pins from the aluminum spiders. Lot of heat, panther pizz, and a press got them all freed up. Then bored and sleeved the spiders back to original so won't happen again. Those tapered sides extractors have always worked well for me also. I'm going to try this type tomorrow: Hanson 25 Piece Hex Head Multi-Spline Extractor Set 53227 | Zoro Order Hanson 25 Piece Hex Head Multi-Spline Extractor Set, 53227 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account. www.zoro.com
With exhaust studs I've always had good luck getting the ears of the manifold red and keeping it there for a few seconds playing the torch around the perimeter of the broken fastener and then allowing to cool a couple of minutes, then repeating. The third time around the perimeter staying directly off the fastener and twisting force applied will usually walk them out. Stud extractors work well if there is enough of a "nubb" to grab hold of.
Im a fan of the flaming wrench. Did not have access to one at the time
I enjoy welding nuts to snapped bolts
I've sure done that a bunch too. These are nothing special; 5/16-18 countersunk head and only about 1/2" length, (under head taper). Had they been busted flush with the top I probably would have went that way but these are a below and I really don't want to hurt that casting. However from the get/go, I didn't think they would put up this much of a fight.
Any time you have steel fasteners installed into alloy castings, you're going to have major thread corrosion after just a few short years. I hate them with a passion. If only some generous manager had said, "Hey guys, put a smear of Never-Seez on those bolts", when they were assembled. I have NEVER found even the faintest sign of any anti-seize on any factory fastener, ever.
I use, (and subsequently wear) a lot of anti-seize when installing fasteners; especially stainless steel as it galls so easily if not used.
Those extractors worked slick. Probably won't go back to the other types again as these really dig into, but don't swell the broken fastener at all. Now have to order the correct length countersunk machine screws to affix the cover and I'll be done. Mounted the pump, piping, filter, along with the original 12' hose and nozzle that came with the transfer tank and it all works well. Didn't measure flow and have a totalizer to incorporate yet, but need to set the tank a couple of places to ensure where it works best. That length of hose will not be any kind of long enough for easy access regardless. I'll install the new 20' section I have and be comfortable in reach. Also have a new "At-A-Glance" fuel level gauge to incorporate so can call for fuel before running out. A new vented fill cap assembly is ordered with scheduled arrival mid week to wrap this one up. In this photo I have oriented the pumping unit 90 degrees from earlier and this now makes the discharge hose protrude further than needed. I'll probably remove the six inch nipple and replace with a close nipple to bring the ball valve shown abutting the filter base. The ball valve may be redundant, but I always incorporate one in liquid lines and I know nothing of this pump, yet. This will tuck the hose right against the tank sidewall. I was concerned about cantilever leverage upon the piping with everything hanging in free space but the stuff is actually quite robust and don't think a problem once that hose is tucked closer. The fuel level gauge will go into the 2"NPT bung that looks like a dark spot in the photo. This is actually the fill port now and plugged with a square capped plug. The 2"NPT vented fill cap/port will install on the end where the homebrew abomination for a vent now resides on the left: The white tank in the background will be for non ethanol gasoline for use in the small engines around here. It will be gravity flow so no need for a pump.
Well dammit. The totalizer I have which is a "Tuthill" copy is not flow reversible. I need left to right flow and the meter I have is right to left. I've sent a correspondence to the vendor asking if this can be reversed in flow. It does have the option to return. I asked about this before purchase but couldn't get an answer except it is returnable if not satisfactory. Not really needed but I'd like to have regardless.
Pumped this tank down to sucking air and it performs well leaving just a little in the bottom. The fuel was transferred to my transfer tank in my pickup and I then pumped the fuel into the dozer tank which is now about five gallons shy of full. With the tank now empty as I can make it with the pickup tube, I'll open another valve down low to drain off any accumulated water or sediment. This was used as a gravity tank and has another filter on the former output they used. After I know this tank is clean I'll remove this apparatus and install a ball valve to be used as a drain only. With a street elbow installed into the ball valve pointed downwards, it will be an easy drain setup should it be needed and not be a "knee knocker" hopefully.
Can't be worse than receiver hitch
Got the new vented tank fill port, and the level gauge installed this afternoon. Stuck a tape measure down the bung and just about an inch of fuel from the bottom remains. Going to drain this down to nothing as what come out of that discharge down low smell terrible and is nasty brown. Former vent: Now awaiting a fuel drop and should be set.