Hey folks I've written over on the excavator forum but feel this probably fits here better. I am getting the C14A, everything worked but I do have a few issues. The seals are leaking on the bucket cylinder, how hard is this to fix? Is this something I'll be able to repack myself{I do have mechanical skills}? is there a place that has parts? Is there anywhere to get a manual of some sort? Also what is the best way to polish up the chrome on the cylinders? The two for the main arm have surface rust but I do believe they'll clean up, I'd like to get them sparkly as possible before running it too much. I'll also try to post some pictures once I get it home
You should be able to get the packings at any good hydraulics shop. I do my own packing. I also worked in a hydraulics shop a while. You can emery cloth your lift cylinders to save the wiper seals and gland seals. For poishing your rods you can get a finish wheel for a grinder. Its a purple felt looking wheel.
Thank you, are there any tricks I should know?
Another stupid question??? When sitting in the operator seat, on the left side{right next to my arm} there is a hydraulic valve{valve is on outside of cab} of some sort, what does this go to? it looks like there is suppose to be some sort of lever right next to my arm, but I belive piece/s are missing.
Not to hijack, but in the next while I will be attempting the same thing on my new-to-me Trojan 2000 wheel loader. RH lift cylinder is leaking badly under load. Fortunately, we have a major hydraulics facility in St. Catharines (Dilt's) so I am hoping we can get the seals we need. Are these seals specific to certain brands? Or just sold by measurements?
I did one of the boom cylinders and the dipper cylinder a couple of years ago on my Bantam. The boom cylinder had light rust on the rod when I bought the machine. I would grease the rod every winter and sand it with fine paper every spring. When I did rebuild the cylinder the rod had rusted deeper and I had to have a new rod made. If I would have rebuilt the cylinder when I bought the machine I would have been able to have had the chrome stripped off the rod and re-chromed. That is what I did on the dipper cylinder, saved a couple of bucks by not letting the rust dig in too deep. You should not need a manual to re-build the cylinders just common sence. Make sure you put the rings on the piston in the right direction and the seal in the gland in the right direction and you should be OK. I made a wrench to un-screw the gland from the cylinder tube, you could buy a tool for that. My dipper cylinder gave me a little trouble. When the rod was ran all the way out the piston would hit aginst the back of the gland. In doing so the gland material got compressed and rubbed the chrome off the rod. The gland was not made from steel or alluminum. When I tried to install the gland on the re-chromed rod I found it would only go on maybe 4 inches. I had to have the gland bored out on a lathe so the rod would go in. I should have known something was wacko when the only way I could get the gland off the rod was to heat the gland up and drive it off with a block of wood between the gland and hammer. And like another guy said seals for the gland and rings for the piston are fairly common and any hydraulic shop should have them. Some shops just have a higher profit margin than others. I think the correct term for the bucket cylinder would be curl cylinder. Have a great day
Thanks Orville, I'm using the ole beast right now to dredge out a pond. I do plan on rebuilding the cylinders and some other stuff over the winter. The HW is slow but very strong and a blast to run. I had to use it the other day to pull my dozer out of the muck{broke a driveshaft on the left side }.
them hein werners are all sae so any hydrolics shop should carry parts but im not sure