So picked up a farm dozer - classic "ran when it parked there" want to do a bit of clearing with it. Can't find any ID on what it is. Here is a pics: PXL-20230409-190726060 hosted at ImgBB Image PXL-20230409-190726060 in the Terex album ibb.co PXL-20230409-190409948 hosted at ImgBB Image PXL-20230409-190409948 in the Terex album ibb.co PXL-20230409-190352218 hosted at ImgBB Image PXL-20230409-190352218 in the Terex album ibb.co So turns over but won't fire - I understand there is a emergency shutoff flap - is that the little sprung lever in the pic here? should it be up or down ? am I missing a linkage or something? PXL-20230409-190522004 hosted at ImgBB Image PXL-20230409-190522004 in the Terex album ibb.co Not new to equipment by any means but first terex & first detroit 2 stroke... should be fun Deal is I have 2 months to get it running and out of there or I forfeit the $3000 I paid for it. Worst case scrap is high... Thanks John - Northern Ontario Canada
Terex 82-30, Detroit 6-71, nice tractor. Parts are getting scarce
Great dozer back in the day but parts are near impossible to get. What would you do with it providing you did get it running and moveable? I think it would be impossible to sell.
should be down Also I would pull the valve cover and make sure the rack is free so it dont run away when you start it
We have a Euclid C-6 (basically the same as an early Terex 82-30). It is a 1964 model with a Garwood U blade and Ateco ripper; very nicely balanced tractor.…. It has been used on a mining claim for the last 12 years for stripping, reclamation and pushing pay. It also plows 3-4’ of snow from the 10km access trail in spring. We have newer excavators that do most of the work so it only gets used about 100-200 hours per season. It sits on the mountain over winter. First start/cold weather starts we installed/use block heater….we also have a 1” thick piece of urethane ready to block air intake in the event of a runaway. I am not sure of the run position on the emergency shutoff as the machine is 400 km away. Are you getting smoke out the stack while cranking? Ours starts much easier with the block heater (first thing we installed upon purchase). Otherwise I use tiny short sprays of ether while cranking; there should be a small removable plug on the side of the blower for ether (much better than spraying through air filter) We found an original repair manual years ago on eBay. Track adjusters are pressurized with nitrogen and slack is set with grease. We had the grease side fail. Found nos front idler and track tensioner at C & C repair in Ohio, very helpful business!
Photo of Euclid C-6; note extreme tightness of left side track shortly after track tensioner “grease side” failure….
Awesome guys - Thanks When I get it running using it on the farm for clearing some bush, also have a bunch of large chunks of Canada sitting in piles on some fields - want to push them all to the side. too big for moving with my backhoe - well I guess it would do it just not worth the wear & tear. Anything major goes wrong with it & can't get it out & not worth fixing - plant trees around it Brings back memories you talking about clearing the access roads in the spring, used to work in the Yukon outside of Dawson and we would fly in and start the old D8 to clear the road to camp and push off some the the glaciering over the road in a few places. Great memories! Was always great to get back into camp in the spring and great to leave it in the fall! With it running and moveable would be pretty easy to sell if I wanted to - lots of farmers that will buy it, gamble that nothing major will break while they do some clearing and then sell to next farmer. Kinda like musical chairs - just don't be left standing when the music stops Same as big old excavators - buy it, dig your pond / drainage, sell it. Going over this weekend and drop some batteries in it and see how it goes. Should they be setup for 12 or 24? Thx guys
It will be a 24v system. Should be setup with room for 2 4D size batteries. Currently we have been using 2 group 31’s as they are much less expensive ($99 at truck shop) for a machine that sits a lot. Our machine was purchased in Bonners Ferry Idaho for $8800 USD so has served us well over the years. Good luck!
Nice help there. My dump truck spins up the 3406 with 3 of the group 31's. It is about due for a set. They are for sure easier to pack in and out than 4D. I worked with those on a float on a dock job and that was a challenge to manhandle them around and keep yourself and the battery out of the briny blue.
If you pull up on the catch with the hole in it the flap should close. To rearm it hold the catch up and push the flap lever down and let the catch down on the flap arm. Bad Bob
Hopefully they keep the proper antifreeze in it. If there is a way to drain off a bit of fuel from the tank before starting, would be nice to make sure no water in it. I'd check fuel filter too. I have never been around one of those things, I think the radiator is in the rear? Hmmm how is the fan set up for that? And listen to the ones here that say to check the rack. You don't want it running away. And make sure e stop flap works and you know how to use it.
The stop flap is hinged on one edge, and rotates against the blower to block the air. The hole showing in the trip suggests the emergency cable is missing. It is supposed to be rigged so pulling the cable pulls a dog out of a notch in a cam on the shut off plate, allowing the block off plate to seal against the blower. A properly worn out engine will run with the flap closed, but lots of smoke and little power.
Fan is hydraulicly driven
It's so very cool. There's a wealth of knowledge on these engines and all sorts of things here. I have operated many different kinds of Detroits, but I never had anything to do with fixing them. You guys are the best!
I can't help with info but can with motivation. most of the green machine here have restored from a poor state https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=961731975018343
Fan drive set up for a Euclid C-6…. makes a fair roar behind the seat!
The detroit in that machine won't be what sours the relationship...Fuel/ air and compression, and it will run compression doesn't even need to be great just get some 'mechanic in a can' and give it a squirt or two while cranking it and it will most likely fire off. If it doesn't you can buy a rebuild kit for it for less than a camshaft for a Cat. This here will get your excitement up to get yours running and pushing....
Well stated Mcrafty1; the engine in our machine is definitely “a bit tired” but the tranny/steering & hydraulics are strong. The machine came with a fairly new set of Berco rails. Upper and lower rollers are fair (still plenty of clearance between roller flanges and pin bosses) Could use new sprockets; these seem very hard to find. The biggest problem with aging seems to be the track tensioners. We have a nitrogen setup to pressurize; but the piston rods can get rusty thus damaging the grease side. To minimize the use of ether we always use the block heater, unless a very warm day….
When trying to start it for the first time, be sure to remove the air cleaner and have a heavy piece of wood to block the turbo in case of a run a way. Check the fuel rack to make sure it is not frozen wide open. The fuel system is low pressure with the injector doing most of the pressurization. Crack open the fuel line at the injector to see if the pump is working. Lots of boats use 71 series DD engines. if you can't get parts or help locally, Google "Boats and Harbors". It is a sale paper for marine industry, towards the back there is a classified section with engines, parts and services. Good luck, be safe. Rick
Hi Guys!
So got it running - was a stuck injector, fixed that and she fired right up. The shifting linkage was seized so fixed that and down a few quarts here and there but no big issues. Ran it pretty hard for about 8 hours and then terrible grinding & knashing of teeth. Pull it apart and the coupleing unit? Shock Absorber? bolted to the flywheel and holding the rear spline was trashed, looks like someone welded it up long time ago - any idea where I can get one? would also help if I knew the correct name for it Worst case I think I can fab one up that would be solid, for the amount of hours I will put on it maybe 300 over the next 10 years should be OK. More concerned about the metallic shine in the tranny oil - plus that the tranny pressure runs on the high side slightly into the red. Anyways right now looking for that coupling... any ideas? thanks John
I'd snap some pictures of the carnage and you might get a little better response.
Here is the Carnage: PXL-20231025-180730375-MP hosted at ImgBB Image PXL-20231025-180730375-MP in John Janssen's images album ibb.co PXL-20231025-210928534 hosted at ImgBB Image PXL-20231025-210928534 in John Janssen's images album ibb.co PXL-20231025-210938490 hosted at ImgBB Image PXL-20231025-210938490 in John Janssen's images album ibb.co PXL-20231025-211025719 hosted at ImgBB Image PXL-20231025-211025719 in John Janssen's images album ibb.co
PXL-20231025-211025719 hosted at ImgBB Image PXL-20231025-211025719 in John Janssen's images album ibb.co This part is supposed to be the Drive portion, think worst case is I weld the hub to PXL-20231025-210928534 hosted at ImgBB Image PXL-20231025-210928534 in John Janssen's images album ibb.co Best case is I can order a new part within a week delivery!
Looks like they call that component the: torsion plate assembly. C&C in Ohio has helped us in the past with parts. (Charles Gaul)
Thanks! Email sent. Sucks he is out of the office until the 6th! People shouldn't be allowed to have holidays!!! How well does your 82-30 work in High? mine will move the machine if already moving in low on flat ground, will not push in high or back up a hill in high... Pushes awesome in low though. Tranny pressure runs high just into the red both cold and warmed up. Tranny fluid is nice and pretty with a metallic sheen.... lots of suspended mettalic dust in it, changed out the filters - no change. Have no idea when fluid was last changed. Thx JJ
Have a manual on order...
look over those bearings out in front of the torsion plate. When something goes kerflooey like that it is often due to excessive flexing. I've torn out the center of a few clutches until I got schooled on bad bellhousings and making offset dowels.
Bearings all looked tight, PO had done some welding on the torsion plate, plus it had micro cracks all over - old cracks, suspect it was just old and tired... Like me some days! Will double check the bearings - prob replace them anyways just to make sure.
I only work the dozer (push)/ (or reverse) in low range. I use 2nd only for walking. It will walk up steep mountain grades no problem in second. I prefer to never use 3rd…given the age of the machine (maybe just paranoid!) Our tranny pressure tends to run on the lower portion of the green (maybe a weak charge pump!). A bit sluggish when cold, then firms right up.
There is a third? thought I only had 1 & 2...
sometimes the linkage is sloppy enough that it does not reach the last gear, and sometimes that is by design
Linkage is tight - didn't realize it had 3 thought f 1-2- r 1-2. So makes sense I can't ru in 3rd
Have seen dozers where 3rd has been intentionally blocked out to prevent machine abuse. Not sure about the year/specs of your machine as to whether it would have 3rd. Here is a photo of some of the specs on our unit.